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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. I bought an '84 a few years back and have no regrets at all. The shock problems you read about on the 2nd gens don't exist on 1st gens, MKI or MKII. Neither does the whine they grumble about. The nature of the beast is straight cut gears so there will always be some noise. If the vin# is above 1413 you should be golden. If not be wary. The problem seems to manifest itself around 60,000 on most bikes. And with the '85 and up you have the bigger luggage. As said, you will run across some electrical problems but most all the fixes are addressed hear and can be done yourself. If you aren't afraid to dive in with a wrench you will have great bike. But be prepared to do most the work yourself. Shops aren't real thrilled with working on the older bikes. We of course thrive in it.
  2. Don't know how long ago that was but years back the museum was on the NE corner of the base. Pretty much a parking lot for planes. The new one they built out west of town is top end stuff and all indoors. Even the restoration hanger is there. The project of moving the planes across town was a show in itself. I got to admit it is pretty cool walking into the front entrance and you're looking up at the nose of the 71-Blackbird hanging over your head. Mike
  3. Just west on Omaha on I-80. Hard to miss with the missles out front. And right next to the Mahoney State Park. A nice place to take a break. Two of the best attractions in the area. http://www.sacmuseum.org/ Mike
  4. The ones on my '84 looked really nasty when I got it. I pulled them and inspected them and found the insides to be smooth and clear. The bike only had 40,000 miles on it but it was better than two decades old. Put them back on and made sure they sealed and they are still on there today. Unless the bike is showing signs of a vacumn leak I would not worry to much about it. Mike
  5. Brian! How can you say such a thing? It's a DEKA!!! I marked the battery when I installed it. April 2009. It's still at 12.8 volts every time. It has never been below 97% power. Never ever had a tender on it. Ok, maybe I'm too attached to this battery. We all have issues.
  6. Well dang......that shot my goal of a 12 month riding season this year. Yeah, I know, no big deal for some of you southern boys but in Nebraska it's a rare thing. I started riding the bike to work everyday back in mid March of 2011 and never even got in the car again except on a few really nasty days until this month. I think it was less than 5 days of not riding in that time. The temps dropped down to -3 last night and I decided to pull the battery out and bring it in. Hope it warms up a couple days so I can take another shot at this. At least above 15 degrees. But it's supposed to snow again tomorrow so I better gas up the cage. 11 months....... best year ever for me. Now I'm bored. Mike
  7. Ok, now I am really confused. You show your bike as an '89. From what info I have the '86 - '87 models have the AD's on the front of the forks. The '88 - '93 has the AD's on the outsides of the forks. You may have something other than the original forks on there. Maybe someone can clear that up. I'm curious. But with that said I have never seen that part before in the forks I have opened. My two sets of '84 forks and supposedly an '87 that was so cobbled up inside it was hard telling what was what. Now I do have a set of '87's on the bench right now that I was going to open this weekend. Now I want to get in there and see what's inside. I agree with Rocket, they do look like the #30 in his diagram but the placement appears to be just below the upper bushing in the diagram. That don't seem right. I got to run to work for a bit but I'm going to open those up tonight and take a look. Got me on this one. Mike
  8. Even more fun than that Bob. My daughter asked me what I was going to do with the old one last night. She wanted it for her lap top. Well yeah, go ahead. She was still trying to get it to work when I went to bed. Maybe sometime today I'll give her the receiver for the USB port that goes with it. I love watching my daughter try to figure out computer stuff.
  9. All they are is heat shields. They were in a box when I bought the bike and stayed there for a couple years. When I did the valve cover gaskets I put them on. Now, I can say one thing. They are staying on! The difference in the heat coming back on my upper legs and under the seat was huge. Much cooler in those hot months. Mike
  10. Nah.... it was a slow painful to watch twitch. Pretty sure it was a 2nd gen twitch.
  11. I wondered where all my cheese went...... I'll bet my mouse had gas.
  12. Hey Jeff, This was the one I was thinking about. Can't remember who it was.
  13. Yea, that choice of "one" can drag on for a while. Took me almost 30 seconds to decide. Good thing I didn't have my daughter with me or it would been six more stores and another four hours. And probably come home empty handed except for her new shoes. I'm sure you're all familiar with the "guy" shopper conversations. "That the only one ya got?" "Yes" "Cool, thanks." Mike
  14. Yep, I'm there. I was at Wally World and went to grab a new one. WOW! Talk about a lack of choices these days. There was ONE wired mouse left. Everything else was geared towards the mini's for the lap tops. Mini's do NOT fit my hands! They get stuck between my fingers. But so far that seemed to have solved the issue. I was just checking to see if there might have been an issue I should look into first. So I'm out $9.00. Mike
  15. Here is the stuff I was talking about. Mike
  16. You would not need to change the R/R if it's working properly BUT if you go back and read posts #11 here and follow the link to the older post on the Shindengen R/R it might explain the pros of doing so. I did Buckeyes upgrade several years ago and did the Shindengen upgrade last year. What a change in charging performance! I can't load this system down to an undercharge state now. The OEM R/R will only use what it was designed for no matter what you throw at it. The Shindengen will offer a lot more. Great combo if you ask me. Mike
  17. Ok, not a huge deal but it's making me nuts. I have Logitech wireless laser mouse that has developed a twitch. It's two years old and always works fine but in the last week it started the odd behavior. I can be on any site anywhere and I'll jump screens and the cursor will suddenly start dragging and jumping in an uncontrolled act of defiance. I can kick the 'puter into standby mode and it will clear up and work ok for a while and have good control. Then again on a different site or different page it will start up again. Just won't follow my lead. Batteries have been changes several times, lens in clean, connections with USP are the same and solid. System doesn't show any odd behaviour when it happens and no excess useage. Oh yeah, sometimes when I single click on something it will lock on a start highlighing where ever the cursor ends up. Should I be looking for a system problem or just put the mouse out of it's misery and replace it? Mike
  18. Just sent that to my daughter. She thinks, (after hours of talks about protecting herself) that all her stuff is totally private because she set it up that way. I freaked her out one night when I researched her (with her watching) and found ALL her social site accounts and where and what she had posted. She wasn't real happy about that. Hey, I'm not the only one that can see what ya say kiddo. And I'm the only that should know that much about ya. Maybe she learned something, maybe not. She needs to work on her passwords to. LOL! Kids ya know.
  19. This is the store locator site for DEKA batteries. Might help. http://www.dekabatteries.com/default.aspx?pageid=10 There are several other label names also that are the same battery. Big Crank is one of them. Around this side of the border a few auto supply shops sell them under different names also. No matter what should be about $90.00 or less. Mike
  20. Another YAY for the DEKA AGM. Check with Skydoc_17. He sells them also. Best battery out there IMHO, and tough as nails. Mike
  21. Plastic is easy to recycle and mold into new shapes. What ya planning on doing with the rust?
  22. Don't think there should be an issue on spec. The contact area is still above that. It's mostly to dress that lip off an a light touch on the contact area. I had a rotor on one of my cars fragment once. Never risk that on a bike. And that's the truth truth. I may be crazy but I'm not insane....... yet.
  23. Yea, I was surpised they sat at that low bid as long as they did. I expected them to run up a bit more. Still cleaning up the outsides. The seller had scotch tape all over the upper tubes. There are some minor scratches on the uppers but looks to be outside of the sealing area. If not, I have a decent set of uppers I can swap out. Can't wait to see how the lowers look inside. That is where I always find the worst problems. You may not have missed out on much. And 30 seconds? Give me some credit! It was 4 seconds according to my stop watch. Now I gotta drop the rotors of at a shop. I got a set from one of the V-Max boys down south and they are ok but have a bit of a lip on the outter edges. Got a guy here that looked at them and can do a light surface on them to remove the lips and clean up the contact surface. Should look a lil better. Nuttin like having a hobby eh? Mike
  24. Hi Twigg, At this point I am not planning on de-linking the system. I had gone through that issue way back when I first got the bike and was having major problems with the proportioning valve not working right. Once I got past that I played with a couple different configurations with the valve and ended up liking the feel of the linked brakes. Being an old school kinda guy, front is front and back is back, it surpised me that I was comfortable with the system, once I got it working correctly. Now...... that may change once the R1's are on. Got to see how it feels. I already have the SS lines on the bike with the exception of the clutch lines. The brake lines were done in a bit of a crisis moment after some joker cut both my OEM rubber lines right at the calpers on the fork while I was at work. The only reason I'm even doing the conversion now is I found a Markland hitch and have been sniffing around the trailer market. Be happy to have a lil more anchor to drag for that. I got my lines at the time from Buckeye Performance. So I shall see how it all pans out. Mike
  25. So the parts search continues.......... I'm getting there. Someday.
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