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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    I always fall back to this one for questions on "nekked" Ventures. It is one of our guys if I remember right. Zag or Zagger? He put a lot into this designing the leading edge front end and even tuned exhaust. Got to admire the creativity. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Looks like ya got it licked Jeff. Right next to the voltmeter! Just razzinn' ya. Nuttin' like an early warning system. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    That's good to hear. Don't forget to check the ground cable that runs to the right side of the engine case. A lot of folks space that connection off and it can cause problems to. Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    This is the instructions that come with the Progressives. It explains the oil levels. I started mine at 5.5 from the top with 5wt oil and ended up going to 6 from the top with 10 wt. Seems to feel good at that level. Just make sure both sides are equal and be sure to pump the forks while draining and again while filling them back up.
  5. Snaggletooth
    You're doin' good. Took me over a year to get where you are already. You changing out the 194 wedge bulbs in the light bar for LED's? Nice improvement. I was always replacing those danged bulbs. Got 3 years on the LED's now and haven't touched them.
  6. Snaggletooth
    This all seems so oddly familier somehow........
  7. Snaggletooth
    Yep, Linked brakes can be a bit tricky to bleed. What works best for me is rear first, then the metering valve at the rear of the tripe tree and then the front left brake last. With the metering valve at the highest point in the system air does tend to accumulate there. If there is any air in that line you will always feel a bit squishy. Remember to keep the rear master filled during the process but make sure it is not overfilled when done. The fluid can heat up and expand and cause the rear brake to drag or even lock up. Make sure to take 8mm wrench with you on the first test ride to bleed off a a little bit of fluid if needed. When the day comes to do a big change to the bike swapping all the brake and clutch lines to SS is the way to go. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    I'm all the way for the DEKA AGM's but just noticing where I lives he might have a bit of a challenge getting an American made battey over to him in an affordable manner. But with that said, looking at what Ice had said, the battery would be a prime concern for a starting point. These bike loves their juice and a weak battery can raise all kinds of other issues. My interest would be in the starter motor itself. Use a battery jumper cable set and hook the ground to the frame or body of the starter and then TAP the positive cable to the cable mounting stud on the starter itself. If it spins freely then the starter may be ok. If the starter does not respond well then my suggestion would be to search out a 4 brush starter as a replacement. That will cure many of the 1st gen starting issues all by itself such as starter drag and the "Hot Start" problems so common on these older bikes. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    Man .... throw in a lil Bro-mance and let the rumors start rolling. Where's our lil Cupcake? Waiting for him to chime in. Probably don't want to go there KIC. More that likely it would be very large, fast and have big teeth. Mikey
  10. Snaggletooth
    Thanks honey. But it was in the tech section to. Easier to find.
  11. Snaggletooth
    Got mine at NAPA. I thinks it was a T45 or something like that. Few bucks. Somebody will have that number or I'll find it shortly. Mike Here ya go. Napa 156 and more info. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37728
  12. Snaggletooth
    Killimanjaro 5.0 and a Scorpion Strike jackets for cold, down to 15 degrees, and wet weather. The Killimanjaro is better for water proof. Both jackets serve well up into the mid 70's. I use a FirstGear mesh for the hot stuff. I carry the Frogg Toggs year round for heavy rains and use them for those damp windy day as wind breakers. Breath great and leave me bone dry in the worst of it. The newer ones do have longer zippers than the older ones. I wear the Clover Hydro pants in the cool to colder months for warmth and dryness. No regrets with any of them. Got good advice here from members that wear them and read reviews at WebBikeWorld and MotorCycleGear about product quailty, durability and sizing before buying the product. Never had to exchange or return a product yet. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Times have changed. Around my neighborhood ya would have got a taste of Taser and THEN they would have called in the Captain.
  14. Snaggletooth
    Excellent find! Thanks Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Calm down Yammer.... It only looks blue because it has been cold. Good Lord somebody throw a blanket over him. Mike And .... Nice ride!
  16. Snaggletooth
    Ain't it crazy how much stuff you can find to do while you're waiting on parts for the first project? Nice work Jeff. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    Looking good. Don't ya just love it when a plan comes together. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    Ok, this is simple if you think of it like a computer with Windows. It's bass ackwards. The drain valve controls the flow into or past the radiator. With the drain valve set so the "On" is at the two o'clock position the coolant bypasses the radiator. This is for draining the system. Or.... in a crisis situation where your thermostat is stuck shut, you can use this to get to a safe haven to make repairs. When you have the valves set with the "OFF" at the two o'clock position coolant flows into the radiator directly. This is the setting for normal operation of the bike. The screw you see on the left side is your detent. Under that screw, and it is a special screw with a modified tip, there is a spring and a ball bearing that seats into the valve body. If it's clean yiu will feel the detent easily. If you remove the screw wrap a rag around it to keep the ball from wandering off. Don't ask. That valve is known for leaking in it's later years. It's just a seep and only in cooler weather but it does make a mess. skydoc_17 here makes a replacement kit with screw and o-ring for a few bucks to resolve that problem. Nice lil fix. So think Windows ......Start is for Stop. Makes sense right. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Did you forget who you're talking to here?
  20. Snaggletooth
    Can't tell from the pic as far as size but is that hole threaded? Looks to be the right shape for the old insert that slipped inside the hollow post of the L/A batteries to thread the cable bolt into. Can't count how many of those things I have found sitting on top of the motors on bikes I have worked on. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    That is always a fun call. The Progressives are such an easy installation without any headaches on good forks. Just pop the cap and swap them out. BUT ..... Remember to bleed off any air pressure first. The thing is that if the seals are showing no signs of leaking and you have been riding the bike recently I would just swap them out and not worry about it. With only 7,200 miles on it the seals and bushings are a long way from worn out. On the other hand, they do have the age issue. But fork seals being in a closed system should not of dried out and seem to be working for you. You need to weigh the risk of a failure in the near future and that can add expense to project such as new brake pads when they get soaked with fork oil. If you feel comfortable with the seals now, I'd go for a simple swap out. The bike I bought had sat stored for nine years and I rode it for two years before I had a leak on them. Yeah yeah .... I know. That really cleared things up for ya. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    If I had asked my dad to hand me a soldering iron he would have handed me one of these. And that SOB would have been red hot. My how times have changed. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    All for a couple of bucks worth of parts from Radio Shack. Geesh. Good call Judge!
  24. Snaggletooth
    Getting them packed up for ya. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Yep they are mine and they are for sale. I was getting ready to list some items on eBay and this was one of them. They are NOS as you can see they were in the original package when I got them. I opened these to photograph them. They are for the MKII models. If you're interested PM me later and we can talk. But I got to hit the bunk for now. Alarm goes off in another 4 hours. Later. Mike
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