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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Sounds like a good plan JD. That should eliminate any possible issue. Wish I had done both of mine together and sooner, but back then we didn't have the MOSFET type R/R info to go with. My advice, for what it's worth, spend a few extra bucks and time to create a new harness dedicated to the charging system. I did away with any point that tied into the old harness and am having no issues any more. Set it up for the stator, R/R and the battery and install a 30amp Maxi fuse and holder in the new harness. Install the new R/R as close to the battery as possible. My point was if I had any kind of charging issue on the road I new exactly where to look. No chasing the OEM harness looking for problems. The unit Earl sells is a Shindengen also I think, similiar to what's in mine. Mike
  2. Thanks for the input guys. I was talking to the guy today and he's been concerned after what they told him. BUT..... in the same conversation the dealer parts guy also told him to buy the oil somewhere else. Said they charged too much!! Honestly from a dealer ....... How refreshing.
  3. Talk to skydoc_17, Earl. He's selling a Shindengen MOSFET unit these days. Mike
  4. Mine got a perm.
  5. Hey Frank, What oil was being used when I bought, who knows. I assume the damage to the stator was probably already started at that time as the charging system was always weak. But from the beginning I used Super Tech 15-40 (WW) and Super Tech 20-50 in the really hot months. I was changing oil every 3,000 miles the first couple years watching what was coming out in the oil. Looked pretty good so I pushed the changes (oil & filter) to 5,000 after that. The bike already had the stator cooling kit in it when I first opened it up and found the stator burned and black. But at the last check of the new upgrade stator it looked like this. Just like new. So whatever reason, running cooler or a difference in oil, I'm gonna keep doing what I'm doing. Seems to be working. Even with the failure of the aftermarket R/R, which was caused by my own stupidity, there did not seem to be any harm to the stator. Got lucky. Mike
  6. I see that all the time on I-80 going through Omaha in traffic. I had one pass me doing a wheelie in my lane when I was on my bike last year in traffic on I-80. At least it sounds like your squib saw light. If not, you'll be seeing him in the obits later on. When I was kid, we had a bully on the block. He got great joy from riding his Stingray bike on the back wheel and buzzing us as close has he could. I got clipped a few times. I ended up leveling the playing field by shoving a broom stick through his back spokes one day. He got the picture real fast. I get the same urge now and then around some of these jokers. But I'm mature and responsible now.
  7. Ok, I got draggd into a conversation today about something I haven't been involved with for years. I don't even own a weed wacker or a chain saw let alone a dirt bike these days so I wasn't much help to the coworker. He recently bought a used, new to him Yamaha dirt bike from a dealer. He is having a ball with it but after talking to the service people at the dealer he came looking for me. Ya know, because I ride a bike. But he had been talking to them about 2 cycle oil for the bike. They told him he could ONLY use Yamaha or Polaris oil in the bike because ANYTHING else would gum up the motor. Now with that statement alone I would call BS by the dealer. From my experience, and I worked for several years in the lawn mower repair shops when I was younger find that info incorrect. As long as he uses the proper ratio for oil/fuel he should be fine. I gave him the only advice I gave any customer. Correct ratio and run the fuel empty before storing or changing oil types or brands. But I told him I'd ask around. I know some guys. Comments? Mike
  8. With neighbors like that you don't need a garage, you need a bunker. Well, maybe a garage with gun ports will do. My area is going down the drain to. About every fiew weeks I come home and notice that another place has been sealed and notices posted by the LEO's.
  9. Twigg, ya know the bikes run faster when the flames start up.
  10. This is kind of poor copy but this was a recommended mod by Yamaha to the air box hoses. The large breather hose was cut and spliced with a T just above the Twinkie. The smaller drain line from the left front corner, instead of running forward and down the left downtube to drain under the bike was then cut shorter and spliced into the T on the large hose. Instead of the smaller line draining the excess oil in the air box to the ground it was drained back to the breather system to be burned off.
  11. Just a couple comments to add.
  12. I've had nights like that. Type in all kinds of odd searches. I found there are potions available to make me invisable. Yea! That should have a slimming effect. With my luck I'd order some and wouldn't be able to find it in the mail box.
  13. Nuttin' says shiny like a mirror surface! Man don't get me started. Already tripping though a list of places that could be applied. Nice lil trick out!! Mike
  14. Can't beat that for service Earl! Nuttin' better than a Priority Post.
  15. Buckeye is top notch! Got four years on mine with no issues. Electrosports has a somewhat "tanished" rep these days. Failures are not uncommon and the word is customer service is lacking. Also PM skydoc_17 here. He has a nice set up that he sells that is a high output stator, 15% more output and a MOSFET R/R for a little more than a new stator. Just unplug anti dive connectors at the top and zip tie them in place. The system is just the two electric units on the forks. Power on and power off.
  16. Hey Ray, Here's another idea. Check skydoc_17's post #24 in this thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=67950&page=2 Very cool with the back lighting.
  17. From what I have heard they are not dangerous...... just butt ugly. Or is that Bugly in todays terms? Just don't be near the water at the crack of dusk.
  18. eBay is about the only place you're going to run into those these days. Mike
  19. Dang Gary, I had to do a double take on that one. It looked a lot like a bike I had looked at a while back. But..... I didn't pick it up. Drooling when I saw it, ran away when I looked it over. It was dressed up nice but all trashed underneath. Glad it wasn't the same bike. Yikes! Have fun with the Smurf. Mike
  20. The forks I bought off eBay for my brake conversion had some nasty looking marks on the inners just above the seals. I could not feel anything and running some of my daughter panthose (sshh, don't tell her) over them I found no snags. I worked the inners with 1200 and then 1500 grit and wet sanded them with WD40 and they cleaned up very nicely. All marks are gone and look like new again. I'm hoping for the best when I get them on. Mike
  21. So when is the M&E with the new hot tub? Opps ....Keith beat me in.
  22. I think Dano had that set up originally but that will probably never happen again at the price we got them for. I tryed to see if I could set up another group buy with the same guy and that was a one time only deal from him. Had some, don't have no more.
  23. PM skydoc_17, (Earl). He's been selling some Mosfet type R/R's that should work as well as upgrade stators if needed. He will be able to answer any questions about your charging issue also. I'd be suspecting a problem with the stator at that low range of charge. Are you testing the volts with a multimeter at the battery with the motor reving above 2,000 RPM? 12.4 is at a drain point and the 13.4 is doing very little to help. Readings should be much closer to 14.5 for best performance. Like Ken, I mounted mine inside the left fairing also. I'm charging at a constant 14.4 now but that is with an upgrade stator. The link in Ken's post is the same as the group buy one and a good price with the the Maxi fuse set put and connections. He also shows another listing with only the R/R and the needed plug connectors for $110.95. Mike
  24. Ok, the first round was a rebuild on the forks with new bushings and seals and added the Progressives. Had the oil at 5.5" from the top and used 10wt. Had the spacers at 3/4". The springs felt quite harsh at first but coming from the OEM's what did I know. It was an improvement. After about a year they seemed to soften up a bit. Only added air while pushing through the curves. Then I had the seals start leaking so it was time for another seal job. Because of the leak I could not be sure how that effected the fork feel. Then after the next seal job I dropped the oil level to 6" at 10wt. I did add a couple washers to the tops of the spacers. The ride was better, softer. Those seals failed for unknown reasons and I only replaced the seals and and kept the setup the same. Still no air pressure used. Now I'm doing the '87 forks for the brake upgrade and I plan to go to 15wt oil at 6.5". I'm 280 lbs so I think the heavier oil will help. I've been wrestling with the idea of the Race Tech Gold Emulators for the '87 forks but haven't decided yet. Still on the bench. The Progressives, when new they did change the stance of the bike alot. Front end really came up a lot. Handled better and no more bottoming out. I never ran into the problem of the forks not moving at all as had been mentioned. The ride has been much smoother and knocked the jar out of the rough roads for sure. I ride solo most all the time with little gear unless I take off out of town.
  25. In the last year I've had several riders, LEO's included, and a few non riders approach me to talk about my '84. The common theme was the age of the bike and it's condition and their love of the older bikes. I enjoy my ride but it makes me feel pretty good that others enjoy it also. So to pass it along ...... nice job on keeping the old girl alive and well. Looks great. I'm sure your going to meet a lot of new folks on it. Mike
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