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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    You goin' for another relay Cougar? Really?
  2. Snaggletooth
    Have one of those! 2-10-15 amp with float mode. Charges from dead flat to. For the money, not too bad of a unit.
  3. Snaggletooth
    If you just need the line from the caliper to the anti-dive unt I MIGHT still have my old set around. I may have tossed them but I'll take a look if you need it. If needed you can swap out the long union bolt on the caliper for the short union on the anti-dive and cap off the the anti-dive port to eliminate the lines and the AD all together. Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    You will be using the needle valve only more than likely. You really don't want to get into replacing the seat itself unless you want to test your tolerance level. It's a bit of a job and you will need more parts. However.... replacing the needle will be fine as I seriously doubt the seat would be worn or damaged enough to warrent the seat replacement. Make sure the seat is clean an blow back though the seat out to the overflow vent to clear any obstruction in the net filter between the seat and the overflow vent. Yep there is a filter in the body also. Make sure to inspect the float body carefully also. In some cases the float has failed and is soaking up fuel or the tang is damaged allowing the float to move without restrictions. This causes the fuel to overflow out the vent. Once you get the floats set properly and fuel flowing correctly you should be in good shape. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Been there three times. One civil and two criminal. The last one was a criminal case three counts felony. Took four days of presentation in the court room and then ...... two and half weeks in the jury room. Turned out it was the first case of it's kind in the state. It was an interesting experience. Looking forward to going through that again.........NO!
  6. Snaggletooth
    Glad ya got it hooked up. Don't matter what we ride we all make the same (oh I hate to say this) mistakes from time to time. How would I know this info? ........ Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Gave it a lil boost for him but pretty fuzzy. I've never seen any like that.
  8. Snaggletooth
    Don't need to be looesen. But depending on the angle of the joint when the shaft is pulled it can drop down at a weird angle and be a bit tricky to get the shaft back in. It can feel all the way in but not be engaged properly.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Just askin', you are sure you got the drive shaft back into the U-joint? It's happened before. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    Hey now that I think about I never got my "Been there done" that T-shirt. Price I paid for being the test dummy. :rotf:
  11. Snaggletooth
    And the voice of knowledge has spoken..... Hi Dan......
  12. Snaggletooth
    The big gear, the 72 tooth one inside the rotor seats into the rotor. It is free wheeling and will come off when the rotor is removed. You get a new, different ring gear with the new engage assembly.
  13. Snaggletooth
    Oh yeah sure.... the gremlims get all the credit! But be sure to secure the rotor some how so it don't come off when you aren't expecting it. I put down a stack of packing quilts under and about a foot and a half away from the bike to pad the landing. It don't slide off like a harmonic.... It POPS off. As Dan described... I found mine laying on the pads the next morning after giving up and going to bed and accidentaly leaving the puller on and fully tightened. Just pure luck. Glad I didn't clean up and put the quilts away that night. Unless you are a Russian shotput catcher ..... it ain't something you want to try to catch single handed. Oh yeah.... try to avoid beating on it with a big hammer. Not cool for the magnets. Good luck and have fun. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Congrats to ya both! And kudos to the Warden for .... understanding, caring, and what's the word? Oh yeah.... Tolerance! We love ya Yammer but man 25 years? You guys are special. (and I ain't talking short bus guys) To another 25! Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Damn Dan, That makes me cring just looking at it. Glad you are here with us today my friend. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    I'm starting to think my parents changed my name when I was young 'cause this kid seems REALLY familiar! Mike .... I think?
  17. Snaggletooth
    Ok, this will sound a bit odd but I've been playing with the handlebar adjustments on my '84 and I've found a hugh differerence in the temps on my hands. When I bought the bike the hand grips were set (rotated) very low on the riser arms. I learned to ride it like that and only played with rotating the risers on the triple tree back and forth a bit. Never did the up and and down on the grip adjustments. A couple of months ago I wanted to try a different feel so I rotated the grips fully upwards. You can't go too far as the adjustments are slotted to keep from over doing it in either direction. But, I've noticed with the grips as high as they will go the gloves I used to wear on the 30 degree mornings aren't cutting it anymore. My hands are out there in the wind a lot more than they were. My gloves get wet a lot quicker in the rain in that position also. Never used to get my gloves soaked while on the roll like that. Not to mention it takes a lot more effort (in my mind) to push the bike into the curves with the grips up higher. So... the grips got lowered back down and the wind is back off my hands again. Those 30 degree mornings are comfortable again with the same gloves and I can ride in the rain without wringing them out. And again, I've got the ease of control back when pushing into the curves. Keeping the grips down low tucks them in nicely behind the fairing. So depending on where your controls are set up might want to try some different adjustments to them before any other add-ons to to try for an improvement in the situation. If nothing else it's free to do and a few minutes time. Just my humble opinion..... Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    Any change.... to all the the carbs or one alone can change the idle. A fix to a diaphragm, a change to an idle circuit, a bump on the sync screws or a minor leak on the intakes can be the difference in a 1,000 RPMS. There may be other issues big or small but checking the idle screw adjustment would be your best bet from the start. On the left side of the carb rack. Easy to see and adjust from below the rack body. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Today, it's going to be a 7...... But I'm hoping to be feeling much better tomorrow.
  20. Snaggletooth
    Now that is a really nice find! Looks like about all the farkles came with it to. I'd say that was 30 hours well spent. And kudos to the wife for jumping in on the project. You should enjoy a lot of miles on the bike. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Dang! I'll be outta work on Monday if my boss sees that. Finally!!!
  22. Snaggletooth
    Well we know that's Zaggs bike.... and GF. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    I'm bored to...... So details man, details! Is that with anti-dives installed or block off plates? With OEM springs or Progressives.....or Sonics? Dry weight or with oil? Yamaha fork, hydraulic or motor oil? 10wt or 15wt? If with oil.... how many ozs or how many inches from the top of the fork? (compressed) Was the clear coat stripped off and the legs polished? I'm pretty sure I won't have any immediate demand for the info but ya never know. And somebody was probably gonna come along and stir the pot anyway so what the heck.
  24. Snaggletooth
    What? Noooo! Things are going to be tough enough when it gets hot out.
  25. Snaggletooth
    Venoms rule the twisties! Great tire year round. I've only had one moment on wet roads that gave me the willies but that was my bad. Backed off the throttle and it hooked right back up. I got just a hair under 25,000 miles off my last set, front had more left but the rear....had to go. Just make sure you get them good and scuffed up before you trust them too far. They stay pretty slick on the chicken strips for a few hundred miles. Mike
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