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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Boy if that ain't the truth. Last week I headed down to Missouri to see my old B-I-L and his family. It's an easy trip even avoiding the Interstate and doing only two lanes just for the scenic value. Ridden that route dozens of times over the years. Once I got into Kansas I figured just for giggles I'd let the GPS lead my into his place. I set it for the shortest route and when it asked if I wanted to avoid dirt/gravel roads figured I was in good hands. Yeah right. I saw some roads I'd never taken before that's a fact. At one point the danged thing shot the guide line off into a field where I saw no sign of any kind of road and the barbed wire fence pretty much comfirmed there was no turn available. I continued on waiting for the old "recalculating" to fire in. Nope. I got the signal to turn around and go back. I did. Same spot. No goats..... no path. LOL! Sun is still in the east, I can figure this out. All in all the suggested short route took an extra 60 miles and an extra hour to get where I needed to be. Not a problem that day, but I'd be leery of trying it again without more plotting the route out. Just another ride experience. Mike
  2. Not really, much better than I expected. The mounts I made for the upper fairing were much worse. I made another shorter one for the saddlebag guard and it's fine also. Just swap the camera back and forth with the quik-disconnects in a couple seconds. Now I just need to head off to someplace really interesting. Mike
  3. Thanks for in update Bob. Good to know. One of my extras turned into the Snagglestud Camera Mount. These types of studs are pretty handy for about anything.
  4. About the same structure as the SB. Give ya the same feel and stabilty. Just less $$. Got Condors brace on the '84 and it's staying there. Mike
  5. I'd say yes. Lower pressure will only add to the flexing of the tire. I've heard the war stories about the cracks found by some riders but never had any problems with that on the last set or the new ones I just mounted up about 3,000 mile ago. I did find some minor cracks in the very bottoms of the grooves on the old front tire only at the end of its useful life. But with that tire being an '05 birthdate and almost the 25k miles I would expect some issues. BUT----- If you're seeing major cracks or flaws that tire needs to be evaluated for your own safety. If your uncomfortable with it, do what you need to. But again, I've never seen lower tire pressures help any tire condtion improve. With the Venoms low pressure will start the cupping effect very quickly with the softer compound. Mike
  6. This story has been told and retold many times over the years and never fails to crack me up. I have had mine own experiences with the lil varmits all my life growing up and living in an area thick with Walnut and Oak trees. I have to make note of the original author, Dan Meyer that pens the "Life is a Road series. If you enjoyed this story check out his web site. The guy has a grip in the riding lifestyle. http://lifeisaroad.com/stories/2004/10/29/neighborhoodHazardorWhyTheCopsWontPatrolBriceStreet.html Mike
  7. Always use the recommended sidewall pressure on the tire on the Avon Venoms for best performance and wear. Just short of 25,000 miles on my last set. Nuff said. Mike
  8. Nope. No easy way and more than likely unneeded work. You fill find rare and I mean rare cases where the seats are damaged to the point of needing to be replaced. The needle tips will fail long before the seat itself. If you look at the top of the carb body next to the overflow vent pipe you will see a small round plug. That can be drilled into, not even all the way through and run a screw into it and pry it out. If you go all the way through it you can damaged the small net filter under it between the plug and the seat. Once the plug is out you can lift out the seat with a piece of wire. Then you will need the new seat, net filter and the new plug. The plug gets pressed in and a lite stake to seal it. Best bet for my money...... from the inside of the fuel float chamber, remove the needle and float. Spray carb cleaner through the seat from the inside towards the overflow. This should remove any debris in the net filter. Simply install the new needle and readjust the float level. You should be fine. If you decide to do this.... make sure of availabilty of those plugs before you start. I had to do some chasing back when I did mine. Mike
  9. The old Bro-In-Law, John, has always had luck with the Gretschs. The first one he ever owned through some of his horse trading was a 6120 Duane Eddy Edition. Big old Sunset Orange thing. When we got together it was always me saying, "Pass me the pumpkin". Loved that thing! One day he took it to a guy down in the KC area to have it set up better for him. When he went back the next week to pick it up there was another fella there hanging around the shop. He picked at if for a while and the doc made some minor adjustments and it hit the sweet spot. He was getting ready to put it away and the other fella asked if he minded if he could take a look at it. He didn't know the guy but the doc gave him a nod and he handed it over. The fella parked his butt and settled in and let loose on the pumpkin. John was dumbstruck. The guy was unreal and just just knocked it down. He finally looked at John and said "that should do ya" and asked him if he could do something for him. He said sure, whatever. The fella asked the doc for a Sharpie and John was freaking a bit, his new favorite guitar and a MARKER!! Oh Hell No! Before he could say anything the fella flipped it over and wrote on the back of the head stock and held it up to John. It said "Duane Eddy". He was looking at the guitar, the doc and Mr. Duane Eddy himself. All Duane said was "They would have charged you extra for that you know." John was beside himself. One of those days. I asked John about that guitar tonight. He had that guitar for years. He said he no longer had it. I couldn't belive he let the pumpkin go. He told me it was back with Duane Eddy, it went back to live with him. So he promised the next time we get together he will tell me the story. Now I gotta make another road trip down there to find out what happend with that. Gotta be a real good reason. Mike
  10. And it's still working just dandy thank you very much Gary. Handy lil sucker when ya need it. Mike
  11. He shot me a few pics this morning of his new toy. Says it's player that feels just like his White Falcon. Seems he is happy with it.
  12. He's a keeper! By the way..... what are your riding? Mike
  13. Not yet, but I'm jazzin' him now about he's full of BS until I get the pics. Looking forward to seeing them myself. You would have enjoyed the Telly he put together years back. Based on a '67 he had a body made from rock maple. The sucker was heavy, I'm mean about 10 pounds heavy. He milled the body for a set of hummbuckers neck and bridge. I gave him a set of Pearly Gates for it and I got to say there was nuttin' like it. The sustain on it was unreal. Hit a chord at it would just hang there forever. A whole new meaning to "solid body".
  14. I hear ya Terry, It's frustrating. I must have had my master off 10 times trying figure out that valve when I got my bike. It was supposedly never opened but after seeing the way the inside was assembled I called BS. Let us know how it works out and somebody will probably come up with the right fix. Ride safe. Mike
  15. The way the proportioning valve works with the linked system is as you apply pressure to the pedal the master starts to build pressure to the rear only first. As pressure increases THEN the proportioning valve begins to allow pressure to the front left caliper. This allows the rear brake to engage first so the front does not grab too much when the pedal is pressed. Once the pressure is applied the valve is metered for the 30% rear and 70% to the front for the proper ratio. So you should always feel the rear pulling down first. Not to a full lock but engaging at least. If all else fails you can remove the spool and guts from the proportioning valve and run it wide open. It works but it's a 50/50 pressure split at that point. But that will tell you for sure if the valve is working and rather or not it is put together correctly.
  16. Ok, try this if you haven't already. Remove the brake line from the rear caliper and see if you are getting a lot more fluid out a that point. If not try it at the union where the line attaches to master. If you're getting good pressure there more than likely the brake line itself has deteriorated inside and is obstructed. If nothing else you will be isolating the area that is not functioning correctly. Mike
  17. I stopped down in Missouri the other day and dropped into see my x bro-in-law. Been a long time since we have had a chance to sit down and visit. We used to get together a lot and could spend all night swapping guitars and BSing. He was a hell of a picker and he was a huge fan of the Gretsch line. He owns a White Falcon and a Country Gent and a couple other tucked way I can't remember the names of. For those of you familiar with those guitars you know the sound. It's all its own. I can't remember how many times I would just stop playing and let him roll on by himself. I'd leave the deck running and record him. He never belived it was him when he heard the tapes play back. But he was saying there was the Gretsch Roundup down in KC. It's kind of a massive jam session for the Gretsch bunch. Bring your guitar and jump on in. He had been thinking about going but didn't feel up to it. I razzed him about getting out and do something for himself for a day and just go. I left him with a little jazzin' about slacking off and hoped he went. So today I came home and found an e-mail from him. He went. He was a bit wired as not only did he go but had some good news. Part of his e-mail: Last but not least.........................I won the Grand Prize for the night. A brand new Gretsch Electromatic. This guitar was just built, shipped from the factory to Gretsch Corporate, photographed for the upcoming new Gretsch catalog, and shipped to KC for the Roundup. It's a new model, white 16" body, double cut, large "f" holes, and a pair of Electromatic Filters..... and a Bigsby with all gold hardware These aren't getting to the streets until July, and haven't even been released or announced to the public yet. Last night was the unveiling of this new line. Now get this *&^%....................the last 3 digits of the s/n are "000". I just about crapped myself Mike. Winning something like this was just crazy, but to also have the "000" is pretty special. Some poor guy will think his number "001" is the first. LOL..............I'll have that pleasure thanks to you LOL I think he had a good day. Mike
  18. Have you pulled the rear caliper to see if the pistons are stuck? If you're getting fluid off the bleeder I'd suspect the pistons are frozen in place. Mike
  19. Are you getting fluid pressure at the left front caliper? If not, check the small ports in the bottom of the master cylinder. You may have something blocked up at that point.
  20. Don't feel alone. There is no exploded view or parts available for the proportioning valve. Yammy never intended to have that as a servicable item. However.... they are more than happy to sell a new one for about $165.00. BUT..... I do believe Dingy had some good pic showing the proper order of parts. I'm sure he will pop in later. Edit: I think this was the right thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66186&highlight=proportioning+valve I went crazy when I bought my '84. The PO had stripped down every part of the brake system to try to repair it and left them all in boxes. It was a fun puzzle. The parts in that valve only work ONE way. Took a few trys and one member actually stripped his down so we could see the way it was supposed to go. Mike
  21. Keep an eye on Woot.com and eBay. Woot has offers every now and then for really low prices. I just bought a TomTom 550 XL for about $80.00 a couple months ago. As far as water proofing there are high end bike units that are already sealed up. The cheaper option is a water resistant case. (In Pics). Or the much more affordable and popular option.... The Zip Lock Baggie. How much you spend is pretty well based on what you want the unit to do. I got by fine for a couple years with a $40 Nextar from Woot that I only used to find gas stations. I'm sure there will be a lot of advice here as there are some very popular units out there. Mike
  22. You're fine Bongo.... one more cup of coffee should do it. He had one on the bike. It fell off in garage, can't find it. He wants to buy another but knows the one that fell off will show up... eventually. When he finds it .... he will pay it forward to another in need. Ahhh Red Bull!
  23. Amen Squidley. For all the technology available around my area only one service provider will offer a connection. For an ungodly price and lousy service. So....... I shall remain irritated with my dialup. Good luck with your HotSpot. Good to see ya back on line. Mike
  24. This thread covers most the things involved. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69229 Any antifreeze that is fine for aluminum should work for you. Mike
  25. I hear ya Dan. Old method done for a long time. It works, and it does save some effort in the long run. I was just wondering about the way I have been doing it. In my case I drain out the master reservoirs every time I change pads and fill with new brake fluid through the system. At the same time I do the clutch system. Ya know, you could have just said "You're retentive!" Saved some typing. Later Mike
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