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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    He means if you have a lead/acid battery to make sure the water levels are topped off in each cell by either pulling the caps or looking at the side of the battery case to see where the level is. Some cases at translucent and you can see the fluid inside. If it's a sealed battery, AGM or Gel, not to worry. You can't check those. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Best bet to chase the problem is to get the battery fully charged and let it sit disconnected from the bike for 24 hours to make sure it will hold a charge on its own. Could be that simple. Not unheard of at all. Once the battery is topped off then take a reading with a multimeter or reliable voltage meter to see where the volts are at at idle and then again at 2,000 rpm or higher. You should be seeing a minimum of 13.8 volts or at best, 14.5 volts at the 2,000 rpm range. At idle it should never be lower than the 12.6 volts that the battery puts out itself. Then test the volt reading with the bike shut down to see if the battery is dropping. If you are getting the good readings off the multimeter for these tests then you might want to start looking into anything that has been added to the bike for shorts in the wiring or possible drains on the battery. If the PO added extra lights or toys that is a good place to start. PO's can be very creative with their wiring. Go ahead... ask me how I know. If you can not find an obvious problem you can start chasing the separete circuits by removing one fuse at a time to see if that circuit is involved with the drain on the battery. If the volts stay up on that one, move to the next fuse. It's a PITA to chase some of this stuff but it's better to eliminate the smaller possible problems before jumping to the idea it might be be a stator or R/R. If you are seeing big spikes in the voltage readings while running it is more than likely the R/R. Some failures there will show as high as 17 to 18 volts, Not cool. If you're looking at a low volts reading while the bike is running you will need to get to the plug for the stator and take the needed reading there to make sure all three coils are putting out the proper current. But that should keep ya busy for a bit. Let us know what you find. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    Just checkin'. You mentioned that you had done some work on the front end. They are not linked. As Marcarl mentioned there is the possiblity of the solenoids themselves bleeding through.
  4. Snaggletooth
    I'm assuming the front air pressure is slowing a stable reading and only the rear is dropping in the pressure reading right?
  5. Snaggletooth
    Beat one of our local morons. He got tagged at 188 mph on the Interstate. The Judge only gave him two months in jail and 168 days of community service. Go figure. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Very nice Bob. Looks like you got several needs covered in one item. Clamp mounts, RAM mount, easy installation and not to mention looks much better than what I cobbled up. Thanks for producing these for the club. So....... should we call you Stud Bob now? Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    I thought I had a rear shock going bad on my '84 when I first got it. Found out from the guys here there were very few failures on the 1st gen shocks so I started soaping the air line connections from the compressor all the way through the system. Snugged a few up and it's been fine for years now. Worth a look before the spend the bucks. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Must be something about those 'Bama gals. Had the same problem back when I was going with a gal from Bay Minette. Folks staring all the time. Turned out she was just that good lookin'. I had never really noticed. Yeah, right. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    I can't say what they cost as I found a new set on eBay for $12.00 for the pair. I think they run around $20-$25 each. The ones I bought were for the 2nd gen and they are much better for installing. They have a wide lip around the edges so you can hold them in place much easier. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    Frogg Toggs my friend...... Frogg Toggs!
  11. Snaggletooth
    Somethings I can understand..........
  12. Snaggletooth
    Well don't that beat all! Just noticed this on the WebBikeWorld banner on the right side of the screen. http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-news/2012/wearing-full-face-helmets-will-be-shot.htm ATGATT ...... Except the helmet. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Yep, pretty much the nature of the beast. The '84 drove me nuts when I first got it finding the magic trick to firing the old girl up. I talked to the folks here and got the word on what the deal was. About the same from all of them. Cold first start of the day: Full choke, NO throttle! Hit the button and fire it up, Drop the choke back to the detent and let cold idle warm it up. After the bike is warmed up that first time it didn't need the choke again. In the warmer weather I usually give it a half choke for that first cold start of the day. The deal I think is the difference is that the choke is not a true choke, restricting the air flow to suck fuel into the throats but the Fuel Enhancements that open a direct flow to the carbs. What ever the differnence is it works. I had a Kawi in the '80's that didn't have a "trick", it was more like a ritual. Came just short of incence burners, incoherant muttering in a unknown language, hold the lip in just the right position, small but meaning full offerings and a blessing. If I didn't get it right the first I'd have to go sit and do pentance for a while. I'm getting off easy with this bike. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    The ON/OFF is only a drain or flow selector value. It does not screw off. The small screw on the left side (as looking at it) holds a small spring and ball bearing to act as a detent into the plastic body of the valve. It does NOT need to be removed unless you intend to replace the O-ring on the valve. ON allows you to drain the sytem and OFF is for the running setting. The actual drain plug is under the water pump on the right side and you MUST remove that in order to drain the coolant fully.
  15. Snaggletooth
    If you have the fairing on the bike they can be a little tough to see. There are two marks on the back of the reserve (to the rear of the bike). One for low and one for high. A flashlight will help you see them. Top this off after closing the radiator cap and setting the drain valve to OFF. Check it again after cooling off from a ride. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    If you're using the OEM R/R yep... the original mounting spot is your best bet. It tucks in nice and has good clearance for exhaust pipe and tire. I used an aftermarket R/R with a adaptor plate I had to make and I had clearance for the tire and some for the exhaust pipe, but not enough. If you change the postion of the R/R be aware of the clearance and even more so.... heat from the pipes or you might end up with the mess I made. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    Boy if that ain't the truth. Last week I headed down to Missouri to see my old B-I-L and his family. It's an easy trip even avoiding the Interstate and doing only two lanes just for the scenic value. Ridden that route dozens of times over the years. Once I got into Kansas I figured just for giggles I'd let the GPS lead my into his place. I set it for the shortest route and when it asked if I wanted to avoid dirt/gravel roads figured I was in good hands. Yeah right. I saw some roads I'd never taken before that's a fact. At one point the danged thing shot the guide line off into a field where I saw no sign of any kind of road and the barbed wire fence pretty much comfirmed there was no turn available. I continued on waiting for the old "recalculating" to fire in. Nope. I got the signal to turn around and go back. I did. Same spot. No goats..... no path. LOL! Sun is still in the east, I can figure this out. All in all the suggested short route took an extra 60 miles and an extra hour to get where I needed to be. Not a problem that day, but I'd be leery of trying it again without more plotting the route out. Just another ride experience. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    Not really, much better than I expected. The mounts I made for the upper fairing were much worse. I made another shorter one for the saddlebag guard and it's fine also. Just swap the camera back and forth with the quik-disconnects in a couple seconds. Now I just need to head off to someplace really interesting. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Thanks for in update Bob. Good to know. One of my extras turned into the Snagglestud Camera Mount. These types of studs are pretty handy for about anything.
  20. Snaggletooth
    About the same structure as the SB. Give ya the same feel and stabilty. Just less $$. Got Condors brace on the '84 and it's staying there. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    I'd say yes. Lower pressure will only add to the flexing of the tire. I've heard the war stories about the cracks found by some riders but never had any problems with that on the last set or the new ones I just mounted up about 3,000 mile ago. I did find some minor cracks in the very bottoms of the grooves on the old front tire only at the end of its useful life. But with that tire being an '05 birthdate and almost the 25k miles I would expect some issues. BUT----- If you're seeing major cracks or flaws that tire needs to be evaluated for your own safety. If your uncomfortable with it, do what you need to. But again, I've never seen lower tire pressures help any tire condtion improve. With the Venoms low pressure will start the cupping effect very quickly with the softer compound. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    This story has been told and retold many times over the years and never fails to crack me up. I have had mine own experiences with the lil varmits all my life growing up and living in an area thick with Walnut and Oak trees. I have to make note of the original author, Dan Meyer that pens the "Life is a Road series. If you enjoyed this story check out his web site. The guy has a grip in the riding lifestyle. http://lifeisaroad.com/stories/2004/10/29/neighborhoodHazardorWhyTheCopsWontPatrolBriceStreet.html Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    Always use the recommended sidewall pressure on the tire on the Avon Venoms for best performance and wear. Just short of 25,000 miles on my last set. Nuff said. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Nope. No easy way and more than likely unneeded work. You fill find rare and I mean rare cases where the seats are damaged to the point of needing to be replaced. The needle tips will fail long before the seat itself. If you look at the top of the carb body next to the overflow vent pipe you will see a small round plug. That can be drilled into, not even all the way through and run a screw into it and pry it out. If you go all the way through it you can damaged the small net filter under it between the plug and the seat. Once the plug is out you can lift out the seat with a piece of wire. Then you will need the new seat, net filter and the new plug. The plug gets pressed in and a lite stake to seal it. Best bet for my money...... from the inside of the fuel float chamber, remove the needle and float. Spray carb cleaner through the seat from the inside towards the overflow. This should remove any debris in the net filter. Simply install the new needle and readjust the float level. You should be fine. If you decide to do this.... make sure of availabilty of those plugs before you start. I had to do some chasing back when I did mine. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    The old Bro-In-Law, John, has always had luck with the Gretschs. The first one he ever owned through some of his horse trading was a 6120 Duane Eddy Edition. Big old Sunset Orange thing. When we got together it was always me saying, "Pass me the pumpkin". Loved that thing! One day he took it to a guy down in the KC area to have it set up better for him. When he went back the next week to pick it up there was another fella there hanging around the shop. He picked at if for a while and the doc made some minor adjustments and it hit the sweet spot. He was getting ready to put it away and the other fella asked if he minded if he could take a look at it. He didn't know the guy but the doc gave him a nod and he handed it over. The fella parked his butt and settled in and let loose on the pumpkin. John was dumbstruck. The guy was unreal and just just knocked it down. He finally looked at John and said "that should do ya" and asked him if he could do something for him. He said sure, whatever. The fella asked the doc for a Sharpie and John was freaking a bit, his new favorite guitar and a MARKER!! Oh Hell No! Before he could say anything the fella flipped it over and wrote on the back of the head stock and held it up to John. It said "Duane Eddy". He was looking at the guitar, the doc and Mr. Duane Eddy himself. All Duane said was "They would have charged you extra for that you know." John was beside himself. One of those days. I asked John about that guitar tonight. He had that guitar for years. He said he no longer had it. I couldn't belive he let the pumpkin go. He told me it was back with Duane Eddy, it went back to live with him. So he promised the next time we get together he will tell me the story. Now I gotta make another road trip down there to find out what happend with that. Gotta be a real good reason. Mike
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