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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    My first bike was a push start.
  2. Snaggletooth
    Had the same problem a while back with the Lincoln. Had the thing torn to pieces chasing the cause. Tried a new ignition module and it fired right up..... for a couple days and did it again. Tried another igniton module and it fired right up again...... a few times, then nuttin'. Started probing the cam sensor (because I could reach it) and got a poor reading, but wasn's sure if I got a good one. Finally jacked the car up and got to the cranks sensor. Had to dig at that one. Got no reading at all. Replaced the crank sensor and it fired right up. Haven't had a problem since. Replaced the cam sensor to just for the heck of it and now I have a spare ignition module. Old one is still in the car.
  3. Snaggletooth
    I like my Cee Bailey screen. http://www.ceebaileys.com/yamaha/xvz13venturews.html Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    Well that's downright unneighborly of 'em. Geesh. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Tool boxes make me nuts! I bought a Snap On roll around top and bottom back in '72 when I was bending wrenchs for a living. I paid an ungodly $750.00 for the set then. But then again, you can spend a couple grand on Snap On stuff and carry it in the shop in one hand. But it's stayed around all these years and held up very well. It gets used pretty regular with all the projects I get tossed my way. But..... it shrank and I needed more room for the goodies I've collected over the years. So I caught up with the rep one day and checked out new boxes. Skip the NEW ...show me some used stuff. Something a little less pricey! Geesh. So he found some used boxes that would be a lot more room. More than I needed considering I was only going to ADD another box. So he took a look at my old '72 boxes and made a trade-in offer that I about passed out on when he told me. He offered me $3,000 for my two old boxes towards the new "used" boxes I liked. All I would have owed on that trade was $8,500 bucks! (tools not included) Now to be fair, some of the new boxes were right in line with the cost of a new car. I'm keeping my old boxes. Shopping elsewhere. I love Harbor Freight!
  6. Snaggletooth
    Lookin' pretty good Gary. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    This is the manual for the X170 to help answers questions. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Can't beat that! I bought the HD 170 a while back and it does a great job. I don't have the computer power to edit the HD stuff so everything is done in the 720 setting and still goods good. Good starter camera at that price. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    Deka AGM is the way to go. Tough, durable and Amercan made. Check out the web site for the one to fit your bike. Sealed, 12.8 volts. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/motbat/18lbs.html Can't beat the price for service and reliabilty. Mine is into it's 4th year and still pulling like the day it arrived. I bought mine through Bohannon but skydoc_17 here sells them also. You will find many satisfied DEKA user in the club. And they are almost local boys for your area. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    He means if you have a lead/acid battery to make sure the water levels are topped off in each cell by either pulling the caps or looking at the side of the battery case to see where the level is. Some cases at translucent and you can see the fluid inside. If it's a sealed battery, AGM or Gel, not to worry. You can't check those. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Best bet to chase the problem is to get the battery fully charged and let it sit disconnected from the bike for 24 hours to make sure it will hold a charge on its own. Could be that simple. Not unheard of at all. Once the battery is topped off then take a reading with a multimeter or reliable voltage meter to see where the volts are at at idle and then again at 2,000 rpm or higher. You should be seeing a minimum of 13.8 volts or at best, 14.5 volts at the 2,000 rpm range. At idle it should never be lower than the 12.6 volts that the battery puts out itself. Then test the volt reading with the bike shut down to see if the battery is dropping. If you are getting the good readings off the multimeter for these tests then you might want to start looking into anything that has been added to the bike for shorts in the wiring or possible drains on the battery. If the PO added extra lights or toys that is a good place to start. PO's can be very creative with their wiring. Go ahead... ask me how I know. If you can not find an obvious problem you can start chasing the separete circuits by removing one fuse at a time to see if that circuit is involved with the drain on the battery. If the volts stay up on that one, move to the next fuse. It's a PITA to chase some of this stuff but it's better to eliminate the smaller possible problems before jumping to the idea it might be be a stator or R/R. If you are seeing big spikes in the voltage readings while running it is more than likely the R/R. Some failures there will show as high as 17 to 18 volts, Not cool. If you're looking at a low volts reading while the bike is running you will need to get to the plug for the stator and take the needed reading there to make sure all three coils are putting out the proper current. But that should keep ya busy for a bit. Let us know what you find. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    Just checkin'. You mentioned that you had done some work on the front end. They are not linked. As Marcarl mentioned there is the possiblity of the solenoids themselves bleeding through.
  13. Snaggletooth
    I'm assuming the front air pressure is slowing a stable reading and only the rear is dropping in the pressure reading right?
  14. Snaggletooth
    Beat one of our local morons. He got tagged at 188 mph on the Interstate. The Judge only gave him two months in jail and 168 days of community service. Go figure. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Very nice Bob. Looks like you got several needs covered in one item. Clamp mounts, RAM mount, easy installation and not to mention looks much better than what I cobbled up. Thanks for producing these for the club. So....... should we call you Stud Bob now? Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    I thought I had a rear shock going bad on my '84 when I first got it. Found out from the guys here there were very few failures on the 1st gen shocks so I started soaping the air line connections from the compressor all the way through the system. Snugged a few up and it's been fine for years now. Worth a look before the spend the bucks. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    Must be something about those 'Bama gals. Had the same problem back when I was going with a gal from Bay Minette. Folks staring all the time. Turned out she was just that good lookin'. I had never really noticed. Yeah, right. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    I can't say what they cost as I found a new set on eBay for $12.00 for the pair. I think they run around $20-$25 each. The ones I bought were for the 2nd gen and they are much better for installing. They have a wide lip around the edges so you can hold them in place much easier. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Frogg Toggs my friend...... Frogg Toggs!
  20. Snaggletooth
    Somethings I can understand..........
  21. Snaggletooth
    Well don't that beat all! Just noticed this on the WebBikeWorld banner on the right side of the screen. http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-news/2012/wearing-full-face-helmets-will-be-shot.htm ATGATT ...... Except the helmet. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    Yep, pretty much the nature of the beast. The '84 drove me nuts when I first got it finding the magic trick to firing the old girl up. I talked to the folks here and got the word on what the deal was. About the same from all of them. Cold first start of the day: Full choke, NO throttle! Hit the button and fire it up, Drop the choke back to the detent and let cold idle warm it up. After the bike is warmed up that first time it didn't need the choke again. In the warmer weather I usually give it a half choke for that first cold start of the day. The deal I think is the difference is that the choke is not a true choke, restricting the air flow to suck fuel into the throats but the Fuel Enhancements that open a direct flow to the carbs. What ever the differnence is it works. I had a Kawi in the '80's that didn't have a "trick", it was more like a ritual. Came just short of incence burners, incoherant muttering in a unknown language, hold the lip in just the right position, small but meaning full offerings and a blessing. If I didn't get it right the first I'd have to go sit and do pentance for a while. I'm getting off easy with this bike. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    The ON/OFF is only a drain or flow selector value. It does not screw off. The small screw on the left side (as looking at it) holds a small spring and ball bearing to act as a detent into the plastic body of the valve. It does NOT need to be removed unless you intend to replace the O-ring on the valve. ON allows you to drain the sytem and OFF is for the running setting. The actual drain plug is under the water pump on the right side and you MUST remove that in order to drain the coolant fully.
  24. Snaggletooth
    If you have the fairing on the bike they can be a little tough to see. There are two marks on the back of the reserve (to the rear of the bike). One for low and one for high. A flashlight will help you see them. Top this off after closing the radiator cap and setting the drain valve to OFF. Check it again after cooling off from a ride. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    If you're using the OEM R/R yep... the original mounting spot is your best bet. It tucks in nice and has good clearance for exhaust pipe and tire. I used an aftermarket R/R with a adaptor plate I had to make and I had clearance for the tire and some for the exhaust pipe, but not enough. If you change the postion of the R/R be aware of the clearance and even more so.... heat from the pipes or you might end up with the mess I made. Mike
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