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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    Like he said. Looks good. Nice touch. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    You're right with me on the thinking but that would be the second step after shaping the shrink tubing to shape and size to add a little thickness and help it hold it's shape. Both those products have been used a lot over the years on the bikes and do very well. The spray version of the Pasticdip gets used a lot around here. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    That's about in line with McMaster Carr. $17 and change for 4 foot. Thanks. Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
  5. Snaggletooth
    That looks like a plug-in jack. I'd bet the PO had that hooked into the fuse block to power or charge some sort of accessory. Can't help ya with the probe. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Yep, sounds about right. I did the upgrade stator, the Shindengen, A DEKA AGM battery and the harness dedicated only to those components also. At normal running speeds it shows 14.3-14.4 all the time with only the headlight and tail light on. Add the driving lights and the digital voltmeter will show a drop to to 14.2. If l'm working on the bike and leave the lights on for a while it will show a drain discharge on the meter when I first fire it up and gradually built back up to the the 14.3 reading. The more current you use for lights or accessories you will see a small drop in the meter display but it should remain constant at that level, except when bringing the battery back up to a full charge like I mentioned. The only time I see a reading of anything lower that 13.8 is at an idle, brakes applied maybe the cooling fan kicks on. No matter what I have loaded the system with I've never been able to get it below 13.6 at speed. I'm happy with that. If you are seeing readings swinging from 12's to 13's with the bike running at speed RPM's I'd check your connections. If your seeing those at idle, you're fine. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Glad you got past that without incident. The close calls like that are nerve racking. I've never come that close to hitting one but I've have enough meetings at eyeball to eyeball range that I don't care to come any closer. I was out yesterday and in a 60 mile round trip around my usual riding area I ran across 6 different places where others have met up with Bamb, fortunately, with cages. Still fresh enough where the deer leftover were fresh and slippery and spread all over the road. That is enough fun in a curve without having to dodge the critters while they are still moving. Last year about this time there were three deer, a buck and two does trying to cross the Interstate right in the middle of Omaha where I-80, I-480 and Hwy 75 interchange. That is five lanes each side and ramps going every which way and during the beginng of rush hour. The buck ran through the Westbound traffic and jumped the center barricade and ran head-on into oncoming traffic for quite and ways before making to the other side. One doe made it and the other did not. So much for wildlife in the city. Don't even get me started on wild turkeys. Been plenty of them this year everywhere. But glad you all got by without making introductions. Ride safe. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Appreciate the offer but the 2" is about minimum for diameter and it looks like at least 3.5" is the minimum length. I'm not sure how much shrinkage I'm going to see on the length during the heating process but it shouldn't be too much. What I'm trying to find out is if the shrink tubing will hold it's shape and how durable it will be after being heated over a form and slipped off to be used as a protective sleeve on a device. Always something to play with. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    Geesh, I'm at it again. Onto another odd project. Before I get into what I'm going to try do this time I thought I'd check and see if anybody has access to any scraps of heat shrink tubing in a diameter of 2" with a wall thickness of around .045. I figure a piece about 6" long would let me find out if this is workable or not. A few pieces would give me some room for failure. (I'm betting on that) Just thought I'd shake the cage to see if anyone had some short ones laying around before I order a chunk from McMaster-Carr just to find out my idea don't work. Like everybody has 2" shrink tubing laying around right? Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
  11. Snaggletooth
    Here is the list I had on the filters to fit the Rivco adaptor. Oil Filter (Gold) FIL 1381 Product Line: NAPA Filters Interchange Mfg.: Fram (Autolite) Interchange Mfg. Part Number: PH3950 Oil Filter (NASCAR) NFI 91381 Product Line: NASCAR Select Filters Interchange Mfg.: Fram (Autolite) Interchange Mfg. Part Number: PH3950 Oil Filter - Mobil One MFI M1105 Product Line: Mobil One Filters Interchange Mfg.: Fram (Autolite) Interchange Mfg. Part Number: PH3950 Oil Filter (ProSelect) SFI 21381 Product Line: NAPA ProSelect Filters Interchange Mfg.: Fram (Autolite) Interchange Mfg. Part Number: PH3950 Oil Filter - K&N Filters BK 7355554 Product Line: Balkamp Interchange Mfg.: Fram (Autolite) Interchange Mfg. Part Number: PH3950 BK 7355554 ' Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    What? Me? Remember me? I'm the guy with the bench grinder and the files. Wealthy? Ya crack me up! And it's just a coinsidence that my daughter developed a taste for Meow Mix when she was little, much to the cats dismay. Now that Dingy guy ......... But sounds like a great plug for the way the Studs turned out from Bob. His addition of the Ram mount threads was an added plus and the bullet ends are a nice touch. So another shameless plug for the Studs...... PM Bob if you're intertested in owning a set for your bike. Bob's kitties are hungry. And for those that got a set, post a few pics guys! Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    I got an update from eBay this morning that a X170 was newly listed for a BIN of $70.00. Before I could post anything on it, it was sold. That didn't last long. But I did pick up something I hadn't seen before. One of my concerns with mounting my 170 HD down on the crash bar and even exposed up on the fairing was the possibility of damage to the lens from road debris. This should take care of that. Don't need to end up like the first pic. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Some Kids had all the fancy toys! When were were hitting the drag strip we had a coffee can with a coil of copper tubing inside spliced into the fuel line. Fill the thing up with ice and off we went. Cheap! yep. And effective.
  15. Snaggletooth
    Basically liquid fuel over heated until it become vapor, boils up like steam. You lose a good share of the needed combustability due to lack of fluid fuel. Alcohol based fuels are a major cause of it from my experience.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Thiis thread is only the few of the comments on the DEKA AGM batteries. Check into them for sure. Stronger, more CCA's than most and Amercan made. Not to mention the cost is very reasonable for a battery that gives this kind of performance and life expectancy. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=70334 Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    My first bike was a push start.
  18. Snaggletooth
    Had the same problem a while back with the Lincoln. Had the thing torn to pieces chasing the cause. Tried a new ignition module and it fired right up..... for a couple days and did it again. Tried another igniton module and it fired right up again...... a few times, then nuttin'. Started probing the cam sensor (because I could reach it) and got a poor reading, but wasn's sure if I got a good one. Finally jacked the car up and got to the cranks sensor. Had to dig at that one. Got no reading at all. Replaced the crank sensor and it fired right up. Haven't had a problem since. Replaced the cam sensor to just for the heck of it and now I have a spare ignition module. Old one is still in the car.
  19. Snaggletooth
    I like my Cee Bailey screen. http://www.ceebaileys.com/yamaha/xvz13venturews.html Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Well that's downright unneighborly of 'em. Geesh. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Tool boxes make me nuts! I bought a Snap On roll around top and bottom back in '72 when I was bending wrenchs for a living. I paid an ungodly $750.00 for the set then. But then again, you can spend a couple grand on Snap On stuff and carry it in the shop in one hand. But it's stayed around all these years and held up very well. It gets used pretty regular with all the projects I get tossed my way. But..... it shrank and I needed more room for the goodies I've collected over the years. So I caught up with the rep one day and checked out new boxes. Skip the NEW ...show me some used stuff. Something a little less pricey! Geesh. So he found some used boxes that would be a lot more room. More than I needed considering I was only going to ADD another box. So he took a look at my old '72 boxes and made a trade-in offer that I about passed out on when he told me. He offered me $3,000 for my two old boxes towards the new "used" boxes I liked. All I would have owed on that trade was $8,500 bucks! (tools not included) Now to be fair, some of the new boxes were right in line with the cost of a new car. I'm keeping my old boxes. Shopping elsewhere. I love Harbor Freight!
  22. Snaggletooth
    Lookin' pretty good Gary. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    This is the manual for the X170 to help answers questions. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Can't beat that! I bought the HD 170 a while back and it does a great job. I don't have the computer power to edit the HD stuff so everything is done in the 720 setting and still goods good. Good starter camera at that price. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Deka AGM is the way to go. Tough, durable and Amercan made. Check out the web site for the one to fit your bike. Sealed, 12.8 volts. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/motbat/18lbs.html Can't beat the price for service and reliabilty. Mine is into it's 4th year and still pulling like the day it arrived. I bought mine through Bohannon but skydoc_17 here sells them also. You will find many satisfied DEKA user in the club. And they are almost local boys for your area. Mike
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