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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. You talkin' to me? I'm not getting anywhere near your place! I know how many rims you got! I can't drink that much.
  2. Congrats on the 40th! I got to say I'm amazed at couples that are together that long. I've had this bike longer than I had either one of my ex's. I must have missed something along the way. So go for 50! I'm cheering for ya. Mike
  3. Buy the needed products. Buy beer. Invite a friend over. Hand polishing products to friend. Drink beer. Hand friend beer as needed. Takes longer but it's a lot easier. Mike
  4. Ok, been looking at the diagrams for your carbs. Compared to the 1st gen carbs the seat replacement is pretty straight forward. Wish the 1st gens were that easy. If this is effecting all four carbs at the same time I keep going back to the fuel level setting through the float adjustment on all four carbs. In my mind that is the only thing that would cause the massive overflow on all four at the same time. Sorry, I got nothing else I can think of right now. Hope somebody can throw some ideas your way. I know where you are at. I had crazy overflow issues with my '84 when I got it. Took me most the first summer and replaced the needles, seats and floats with new and I lost count of how many times the carbs came off to adjust the fuel levels to get them dialed in. I hope you get an answer to the problem soon. Mike
  5. I'm not familiar with the '98 carbs but the first thing I would question would be the needles and seats themselves. And I'm going to ask, did the same mechanic install them? If the wrong needles were installed the problem is more than likely there. I've pulled carbs apart with needles that were too short and did not seat at all. But with what you have told so far, the current mechanic needs to be kept away from the bike...... or any bike for that matter. Sounds clueless. Mike
  6. :sign yeah that:Exactly! The one I have came with a wide rubber band to put on the grip to give the rocker some grip. After some time the rubber band wore from the rocker slipping or being changed in its placement. I took a couple loops of friction tape over the rubber band and the rocker never slipped again. Most the riders I know that had issues with the rockers were setting them way to high in my opinion. I'd have them set the paddle lower so it was only hitting the heel of the hand as you relaxed your grip and let your wrist relax a bit. Most the time I don't even notice mine until I drop my wrist a bit. Mike
  7. Yep! Datz da ticket! Not too worried about pretty on these. Let me know. Mike
  8. OK, here is an odd request. On the 1st gen where the horn mounts to the bracket on the frame there are sets of thin metal strips between the horn and the bracket. I suppose the sets of thin strips are to counter act the virbration. When I upgraded my horns and driving light brackets I tossed those OEM strips. Why keep 'em right? Well I have changed my light brackets again to a different type and I find the need of those strips to hang the horns. I made a couple of hangers from aluminum flat stock but they are showing signs of weakening already this year. Too much vibration. Anybody that has done a horn upgrade that might still have those strips laying around that would be willing to part with them? I think each side had 3 or 4 strips for each mount. Thanks Mike
  9. Now ya did it! Ya got mine starting to act up. It is fine on the cooler days but once it hits the 90's and I get some heat built on the motor the idle starts to climb. Only does in on the hot days and on a hot motor. Once the temps drop a bit and the motor runs cooler it's back to fine. Now I got to start chasing vacumn leaks again. Probably a crack in a hose. Geesh. Mike
  10. Sounds like somebody got left on the side of the road at some point in her life.
  11. The DEKA AGM batteries have a long, long storage life. They can survive long storage periods with barely dropping a few 10th of a volt. If you had a trickle charger on it all winter, it may be fired. As far as the mechanics opinion.......RUN and RUN far from that one. Considering how many of us have changed stators on the center stand with basic tools in our garages I think we can get you through that process if you go for the replacement if you find you need to do that. But the battery should be your starting point and with a multimeter you can find any other issues that need to be addressed. That analog volt gauge in the dash is not a reliable souce of useful information when finding electrical problems. Mike
  12. When you wanted to get ahold of a friend you rode over to their house and did burnout in their driveway so they came outside. "Social Networking" was hearing the sound of another bike hitting redline and following it until you caught up. Maybe that was just my neighborhood. Mike
  13. Have had one on the bike for three years now and won't travel without it. Takes pressure off the wrist and let's you relax your grip on the throttle. I keep a spare one in the case as they seem to be quite popular with folks that don't know where to buy one. Just call me an unwilling distributor. Rather or not you use the CC, they are helpful just around town where you wouldn't normally set the CC. Mike
  14. When this all started I remember the price was $60.00 plus shipping for a set of four. I seem to remember the price went up a lil bit. What did it end up at? Mike
  15. I'm in! As long as Condor is sitting this dance out I got a fighting chance. I had no part in the death threats but I did enjoy a chuckle at the idea of dragging him behind a trailer, just a lil ways. Just kiddin' Jack. I'd never take part in something like that. Mike
  16. You are on the right track to NEVER rebuilding or replacing the engage clutch again. I was one of the first to have mine modded by Dan here on this side several years back and it's been flawless performance ever since. No doubt you will be pleased with it. Mike
  17. Yep, Just bought a couple of those a few weeks ago at Wally World. Been using the neck coolers for years in the hottest times but the cooler do-rag works very well under the helmet. Mike
  18. "Off" at 2 o'clock for the normal running position. "On" at 2 o'clock to drain the system. If the valve is clean enough on the inner workings you should feel the detent pop when you hit the right spot. Mike
  19. It's sad when you see a social statement like this pic. Mike
  20. Man that shakes out the closet! My favorite jacket when I'm out wandering is my Kilimanjaro. It's great from the lows with the liner in and comfortable up to about 80 with the liner out. If I'm out for a short hop I always wear the Scorpion Strike textile. Again with the liner I've worn it down to the teens and without the liner and the vents opened up it's fine to about the mid 70's. But when the heat gets above 80 the First Gear mesh is the jacket of choice. I hate the heat and wearing gear in it, but the mesh allows so much air flow I hardly notice it when I'm moving. I have a pair of Clover Hydro pants I carry with me for the trips that are great for the cold to cooler temps and have the flannel liners and the waterproof liner also. Pretty much all year round gear expect in the 90's. Other wise, it's the jeans for most riding. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth

    Photo0129

    I don't know why but I'm liking your bike. Seems really familiar. LOL! Looking good. Mike
  22. I'd heard rumors that you picked up a case of Monkey Butt on that last run. I thought that would help you climb. Guess not. Mend well my friend and no more rock ape imatations!!! Mike
  23. Prayers up and away for ya Bob. Get yourself better fast. Thanks for the heads up. Mike
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