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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    \ I'm not one to judge as I'm a frugal mechanic myself but I'm want to say there are times when cutting costs don't play in your favor. I'd be concerned to cut short on attaching the disks with weaker than needed bolts in this case. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Good to know for sure. I've used Plasti Dip on tools for year and it held up very well. I was surpised at the durability of it on the diaphragms. I wanted try the Liquid Tape for patching small rips but but if it's breaking down under gas or oil it's not worth the time and trouble. Thanks Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    Somebody posted a pic here a while back of an inverted copter drawn on a ceiling around a ceiling fan. Had to admit.... kinda cool looking. Pic #1 Now, it seems that dream is a reality. I ran across this the other day. An actual ceiling fan copter with a 3 speed motor, a remote control and it's own heli-pad. Pic #2 It might not actualy be all the great for cooling but you got to admit.....it's got a certain cool factor. Flyinfool? You been busy? Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    I hear ya. Stability can be any one or a combination of tires, neck bearings, swing arm pivots and or road surface, or even the frame issues on an '83. Hard to pin point them through a description. I hope you can hook up with a local and find out rather or not you have a problem to deal with or even better, not find a problem. Hope you are able to get the bike to a condition that you are comfortable with soon. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Wish I was in your area to help ya out. Went through that with my '84 when I got it. It had been stored, and cared for during that time, but had not been ridden for nine years. It wasn't running when I brought it home and a lot of parts in boxes. I had it running the next summer and spent a year rebuilding and replacing parts until it ran right and felt safe. But like you, I had no confidence in the bike for long road trips for over a year after that. With the help of the folks here I got to know what was what and started trusting the bike. Today I'd take off and head out anywhere and never give it a second thought. If somebody can get together with you and give ya the old "this ain't" and "this is" calls on the condition of the bike I know it would help ya out. But until then, what are the things you are concerned about? Maybe we can help ya out a bit that way. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Take some time and consider this battey. It's one of the top choices for your bike. Tough as nails, more CCA than others, same size as original battery and American made. Been in my bike for 4 years and still cranks like the day I got it. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/deka/etx18l.html Compared to OEM and other L/A batteries and comparable AGM's, best buy for the bucks. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Some times we just tell him stuff to see what he will do. Free entertainment.
  8. Snaggletooth
    If you can't find what ya need you haven't check McMaster-Carr yet. They have a bit of a selection. Just ask Flyinfool. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    Ah Ha! All ya got to is ask. http://www.mcmaster.com/#spark-plug-sockets/=idj2dh I get all my odd items at Mcmaster. Might want to pick up a set of JIT screwdrivers to. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-screwdriver-sets/=idj5vc Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    Most hardware stores sell sockets as single items so you buy just the one you need. SK Wayne, Snap On, Craftman, and a lot of others will slip in there fine if they are not impact sockets. You should be able to find a 3/8 18mm deep well without too much trouble. The spark plug sockets are 6 point but a 12 point will work for ya to. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    From what I've been reading they are in the same bracket as the plug-in insect and mice repellant systems. Worthless. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    Oh man Jack I'm so sorry to hear this. Fortyfive years is a lot of memories. Hard to find the words. Thoughts and prayers are with you and the family. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    You got it Dan. Prayers up and rolling.
  14. Snaggletooth
    Same kind of stupity down here. Guy about the same age got tagged for 188 MPH on the Interstate. Ran from the LEO's for 6 miles and they found him at his moms place. She defended him with "He's a good kid! It was a split second decision." Yeah right! For 6 miles? He was looking at two years in jail but the judge let him off with 2 months in jail and 188 days of community service. I'm thinking they need a crossing guard on the Interstate. Let him dodge speeders for a while. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    As far as that goes the local hardware stores usually carry blanks that will work with the Yamaha locks also. Couple of bucks to have one made that way.
  16. Snaggletooth
    The code number is stamped onto the original factory keys and on the key tag that was issused when the bike is new. Now being the sharp mind kind of guy I am I take a wild guess and say that key tag is long gone. Some owners wrote the code numbers down in the owners manual that came with the bike. Bet that ain't there either. With any luck you might have one of the original keys in your hand. Any luck? Now I have never pulled mine to check but there have been stories about the code number also being on the ignition key lock itself. So there are the options on finding the number to get a new key made to factory specs. Having one NEW key to work in all the locks is a good thing, Hope ya find what ya need. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    Bet that gets some looks rolling down the road. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    That's what I specialize in. No Brain! But keep in mind it's Special Tape. It's prepainted! Limited quantities available if you order now. Maybe I should go air out the gargage. Must be the fumes.
  19. Snaggletooth
    If you are thinking about cleaning the net filters in the carb bodies the best bet is to remove the carb rack and open the fuel bowls. Blow air pressure through the needle seats back through the body and out the overflow nipple. Removing the net filter and replacing them is a PITA and not sure if the plugs for the body are even available anymore. Been there. Don't plan on doing it again. Really not needed. Run your gas down to below half a tank at least and remove the fuel level sending unit. Take a good look at the inside of the fuel tank for rust debris and the condition of the pick up filters on the petcock. The pick up fliters on mine had fallen apart and every bit of rust was going directly into the fuel line through the reserve pick up s it is at the very bottom of the tank. It would clog the inline filter in no time and a lot of it made it to the fuel bowls. Caused me a lot of headaches. I had to replace the petcock on mine. If you are having tank rust problems I recommend this product. http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html Did my '84 several years ago and a few other tanks since with great results. Makes the tank interior feel and look like a Thermos bottle. Not a fleck of rust in the filter since. Sea Foam is a great product but if you have rust particles building up the Sea Foam won't dissolve that. A good cleaning through the system, sealing the tank and replacing fuel lines from tank to carbs will be the most helpful for a final fix. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Let me know when it comes back to ya. I still have more tape. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    It's reusable.... Cleans cat hair off shirt. Patch bald spot on cat. Stick on my foot so the hole in my socks don't show. Patch an inner tube. (maybe not?} Marks on wall to align headlight. Toss it in the kindling box. Tape neighbor kids mouth shut. Patch the milk jug so I can use the rest the milk. See... I'm learning to go green. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    And you're in a pinch....... This should get you by for a while. I've done this a few times to help others out, including the ones in my carbs that were done before we knew about the availability from SCI. It works and has held up well for about 20,000 miles on my '84. But here is what got me started again today. I've known I was pushing my luck on the treated diaphragms I did on mine several years ago. I ordered a set of SD1 x4 diaphragms a couple weeks ago from SCI but they were out of stock with a 4 to 6 week wait before they came in. It was running ok but getting hard to start again so I figured I'd change the plugs before I take off on another road trip. So I got the plugs in and it started fine like it does with fresh fire. But..... it felt a little off. Not quite right. So as long as I had the plastic off I pulled the diaphragm covers to take a look. Dang! Not cool. I found two diaphrams with holes in them. Not biggies but enough to cause problems. First pics show what I found. I'm not fixing that. I had spare sliders and diaphragms from another set of carbs. They were set aside long ago as they did have some tiny pinholes in a couple and I didn't need to mess with them at the time. So, here is what I have done, again, until the SCI SD1's come in. Cut down the top of a milk bottle so the hole is large enough to drop in the slider to protect it and the needle from any over spray from the Plasti Dip Spray. Tape off the plastic ring on the outside of the slider. It don't need to be sprayed. Wash the diaphragms down with alcohol to clean them up and let it dry. Give them a light coat of Plasti Dip Spray and let them sit for about a half hour and give them another light coat. They say it needs 4 hours to dry but I'd give them more than that. I didn't want to let it get too heavy as they still need to be flexible. They actually seem to soak up the spray and feel more flexible than they did in the beginning. But they cured and back into the carbs they went. Fired right up and idled fine and a quick sync brought them right on line. I'd done a sync this spring so apparently the rips were recent. But like I said, it's a fix. A pretty durable fix from the miles I've put on the bike since the first time I did this put if you need to get by.... for the cost of a can of Plasti Dip, it's a good one. I might try the Liquid Electrical Tape on the rips and a coat of of Plasti Dip to see if that holds up. Never hurts to know you can at least get home when you're in a bind. Still looking forward to the new ones. Got to be a bigger improvement over the repair. So there ya go. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    Well dip me in honey and throw me to the lesbians!
  24. Snaggletooth
    I'm going to bring up one thing on this. During reassmbly of the carb rack did you use an assembly plate to make sure that all four carb bodies were dead flat on the bottoms? It is important to make sure that all points on the axis lines are spot on level and straight. This effects all your common adjustments including sync. But, from my experience with the carbs on mine, I had trouble the first few times getting my boots to seal up properly until I made an assembly plate set up and got it all lined up right. Leads me to belive that some issues with the boots must be caused by misaligned carb rack adjustment. Just my two cents as there are so many other problems for leaks but if the bodies aren't seating right I'd check the rack alignments. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Got to say I'm happy with mine. Extreme testing last year during our monsoon season. Almost daily wear last year. And a plus for sure on the service as windbreakers. Mine are always in the saddlebag no matter what the forecast. I've heard several stories on their great customer service. Nice to know if I ever needed it. Mike
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