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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    In the last few months I've been getting e-mail notices from Verizon Wireless. I had to laugh as I don't, or any member of my family, have or have had any Verizon phone service. The first one was for $949.87 and the one I got today was for $2,471.25. The website shows it as Verizon 2011 and no other info other than "View & Pay Bill" or "Enroll for Autopay". Anybody else seen e-mails like this lately? Glad it ain't my bill. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Welcome to my world! My friends call me Sparky just because the like to watch me do the electrical work on the bike. They even bought me a fire putter outer thingy for the shop for my birthday. That said I've rewired about everthing that needed to done on my bike, new fuse panel, upgrade stator & R/R harness, driving and marker lights, upgrade horns, power switches, power supply to the trunk and saddlebags, and a head light mod and not once have I managed to set fire to the bike. That is only thanks to the guys here that helped walk me through the systems and advise me on the old "how to's" along the way. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    As far as I can say the only way you will get a "0" reading on the front display is to cap off the line to the forks and the fitting on the air collar itself. Without doing that there will always be some air in the line and subject to compression causing a reading. Even given doing that, with the line capped off, even a touch of the control button would result in a pressure reading just from the air in the line. The only way to avoid that is to create a vent in that line to eliminate possible pressure build up. With that as a choice. I'd rather not have any chance of that line being subject to contanimation in case the time comes to want to add air to the front. I'd leave the line as is and live with the couple pounds showing on the display. Again, my And the manual states to adjust the air pressure with the bike on the center stand and no weight on the bike. You know as soon as the bike hits the ground the pressure displays are going to go up. But glad you found a smooth spot to ride. I tried several different sets of pressures and damper setting with different loads and road condtions over time. You'll find your sweet spot with some trial and error. Some times you have to forget about the book and go by your butt. That said ..... wasn't the book written about 30 years ago before everything was available in "SUPER SIZES"? Somedays I add a lil air pressure after lunch. (to the bike) Ride safe Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    If you have the bike on the center stand with the front wheel off the ground that front reading will probably show lower than 5 lbs. It's always going to show some reading with the bike on the ground. You can't remove all the pressure from something that is always under pressure. I wouldn't worry about cracking the lines myself. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Looks like Randy hit the high points real well. From where you are starting from, I'd say the best place to start from would be getting it ready with the new fuse box. These bikes are picky on the power source. Skydoc_17's set up is complete and easy to install for sure. The old fuse box can create nightmares from the start with everything else so it's a good beginning point. Make sure the battey is fully charged (and charging, should charge at about 14 to 14.5 volts across the battery at 2,000 rpm), Weak batteries are a problem if you have other issues. Is you find you need a new battery the DEKA AGM line is top notch and one of our best choices. As mentioned the Sea Foam is the best medicine for the the fuel system. Get some into the tank and into the carbs. Best to let it sit in the system for a few days to soak and clean. It does wonders to get you started. Before you change the plugs to new, run the Sea Foam first. It breaks down the varnish and gunge in the carbs and it all ends up fouling the plugs. But you have some things to start with so you have some things to think about. We're gonna be around so keep us posted on how it's going. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Yep, ya need to kick it up a few pounds. I'm 275 solo and if I let it down to 42 I'm feeling it. Most the time I'm solo with gear, cooler and tool kit and gas topped off I run it at 65 to 70 lbs and the damper at 2. Feels pretty good there for me. Try the higher pressure in the rear and try the lower damper setting to find a smoother ride. 3 & 4 can feel kind of stiff to me. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    I'm thinkin' I like it. Yep. I do. Feels good to be at the other end of a project don't it. Congrats! Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    And then it gets hot out and you know what happens then don't ya.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Some times I actually miss my wife. Been out of beer for 20 years. But when I think about it...... Beer was the reason I got married to her. Never mind. I'll get by.
  10. Snaggletooth
    These filter fit the Rivco from Buckeye Performance. I have no idea if they fit any other types. These filter all fit inside the frame with no issues. Oil Filter (Gold) FIL 1381 Product Line: NAPA Filters Interchange Mfg.: Fram (Autolite) Interchange Mfg. Part Number: PH3950 Oil Filter (NASCAR) NFI 91381 Product Line: NASCAR Select Filters Interchange Mfg.: Fram (Autolite) Interchange Mfg. Part Number: PH3950 Oil Filter - Mobil One MFI M1105 Product Line: Mobil One Filters Interchange Mfg.: Fram (Autolite) Interchange Mfg. Part Number: PH3950 Oil Filter (ProSelect) SFI 21381 Product Line: NAPA ProSelect Filters Interchange Mfg.: Fram (Autolite) Interchange Mfg. Part Number: PH3950 Oil Filter - K&N Filters BK 7355554 Product Line: Balkamp Interchange Mfg.: Fram (Autolite) Interchange Mfg. Part Number: PH3950 BK 7355554
  11. Snaggletooth
    That's good news on finding no gas puddles. That can go either way real fast. Easy or hard. Since you keep up with the fuel treatments you're probably fine. If you can figure which cylinder is stuttering you might pull that diaphragm and check it. I had one a couple weeks ago I found a small hole in, not a pin hole either, and it had some effect on the idle and even more on how it started. If you find one bad one, ya better eyeball them all. Old school, heck yeah!! The last car I had that I actually liked and enjoy working on was my '69 GTO, or the '62 Impala. What smog stuff? LOL! Now MPG, that was another story. The Impala got 12 to 14. Not bad. The Goat, well if I didn't run it much past idle I could get 7 MPG out it. Once the shoe hit the pedal that went out the window. Feeler gauges, timing light and a vacumm bar. Pretty much did the trick back then. SOB! Now I'm depressed. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    I mean really! 1, 2, 3 bikes in sight and a 'ped and there is still room to walk? Got to be photoshopped.
  13. Snaggletooth
    First thing that would cause that would be a possible stuck float problem causing the fuel to overflow out the vent lines on top of the carbs. The rise in idle, heavy gas smell are the first signs and be sure to check for gas dripping, pooling or outright shooting out under the bike. Now if you are getting heat temps like we are here the high temps seem to be bringing out the best of vacumn leaks when the bikes get warmed up good. That also brings on the high idle and can change the carb performance. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Your avatar shows a bike, the profile shows a couple of deer. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    I ran across this and had to laugh. I've had my fun with my GPS and misleading information but this tops it all. You thinks they might have noticed this one a lil sooner? Three Japanese tourists in Australia found themselves in an embarrassing situation after their GPS navigation system lured them down the wrong path. The three students from Tokyo set out to drive to North Stradbroke Island on the Australian coast Thursday morning, and mapped out their path on their GPS system. The road looked clear, at low tide — but the map forgot to show the 9 miles of water and mud between the island and the mainland. As the three drove their rented Hyundai Getz into Moreton Bay, they found the GPS device guiding them from a gravel road into thick mud. They tried to get back to solid ground, but as the tide rose they were forced to abandon their car. Passengers on passing ferries watched in amazement. Noda and her friends made it about 50 yards offshore before they realized they were stranded. A tow truck driver eventually gave them a lift back to the mainland. The students decided not to have the car repaired because of the damage. The car was insured, though Noda will still have to pay about $1,500 for what was not covered.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    Hey again, Checking on the Mr. Gasket 42S fuel pump. Got one down the street from me so I might just swap that out. I have a spare OEM pump but not sure if it's worth installing. I did find a set of turn signals yesterday on fleaBay for $19.00 with shipping so I grabbed them. I guess that rubber knuckle joint don't last forever. But thanks, Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    So more than likely simple pump failure and the heat is not related, or maybe just a contributing factor at the least?
  19. Snaggletooth
    Uh yeah, couple times. And no vacumn at the filler cap either (which would be caused by a plugged vent line) It's got every sign of actual vapor lock but I can't explain the sudden drop on the voltmeter. Still chasing for a shorted wire but that should be a lil more extreme on the voltmeter.
  20. Snaggletooth
    I get the salvage buy back and that is fair enough but...... they have made at least an offer to settle on the value of the bike right? Or they still working on that? Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Ok, been a lot of conversation lately about fuel pumps and now I'm chasing a problem with mine.... me thinks. First of all the bike is in good shape and most possible issues have been addressed in the past. Fuel tank lined with expoxy. Fuel filter and petcock shows clean and free. (Opened the tank to inspect) Fuel lines have all been replaced Tank vent clear and free of obstuctions. Carbs in good working condition and fuel bowl levels at spec. Good fuel flow through system. Air filter clean. Sync done recently. Electrical connections recently checked and found to be clean and sealed. Cooling system clean and working properly. Bike is not over heating. Charging system and electrical working properly and in good condition. Different fuel bought over a week from different stations. The problem only happens when the temps are in the top end of the 90's or over 100. Everything works fine in cooler temps and no problems of any kind. What happens is the bike, at highway speeds (60 - 75 mph) after being ridden for a distance in hot temps just stalls and sputters out. It will cranks right away but needs to sit for a bit before starting again. The first time it happened I wrote it off as a possible vapor lock. The bike had been sitting out in the sun since early morning and I didn't leave work until 2:00 PM when it was 101 degrees out. I only had a gallon and a half in the tank so I figured with the heat maybe I was vaporing. After 15 minutes the bike fired up and I rode home with no furture problems. I did check the vent line at that point. I filled the tank the next morning and ran about 100 miles that day in 80 degree temps and no problems. The next day it did the same thing again with a over half a tank in temps close to 100 again. Same thing. Let it cool down for bit and ran on home. It's done the same things twice more since then in the high temps but I made note that the digital voltmeter was showing a nasty fast drop from the usual 14.2 volts to 13.5 -13.8 right as the bike started to sputter. Not normal. And again today on the Interstate when it was 97 degrees. So knowing everthing I've checked is working as it should, almost, with the sudden drop on the voltmeter just as the bike stalls out I'm starting to question the fuel pump itself. NOTE: I can't say I've seen the volt meter dropping prior to the stalling, only note it as the bike is stalling. Is it possible the pump itself is stalling out do to a heat related failure causing the drop in the volts? It functions properly when cooled off. I can not get the bike to stall while on the stand and letting it run hot. It only stalls hot and under load. Kind of got me scratching my head... Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    Before I did the interior of the trunk I installed the trunk rack and made two straps from aluminum stock and worked a curve into them to match the shape of the top of the trunk lid. They sit nicely into the inner curves. Drilled them to match the mounting posts on the rack and used the 1.25 inch star washers with a larger rubber bib washer beween the star and the lid surface to help spread the pressure and seal the mounting hole. It's been a few years on that install with no problems as far as stress cracking on the lid. I know for sure I've loaded it with better than 10 pounds more than a few times. so far, so good. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    Oh I wish they still made the Purple Horny Turndowns!!! Love them on the GTO! Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    I was able to grab a set off fleaBay for under $20.00. Should cover my parts needs. Thanks anyway. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Ain't that a fun experience? I had a good sized Wolf spider crawl out of mine a while back but it wandered on across my tank and up onto me. I was on the highway with my daughter on the back. I knew better than to say anything with her onboard ('cause I would have to go back and pick her up off the road) so I waited until I got to a stop light and gave it a flick. My daughter asked me why the gal in the car stopped next to us started screaming. I had no idea. I didn't aim..... I swear! Mike
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