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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    On that note...... I just loaded all the POI file for DQ locations into my GPS. Now I can find all the guys. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    No real kits are available for these bikes. It's pretty much pick and choose what you need. There are some kits available for the VMaxs but not everything fits. At best the jet block gaskets are a good start along with the fuel bowl o-rings. Diaphragms through SCI in that post shown are a great plus and usually needed. SCI# SD1 x 4 is what you will need. (but they are currently out of stock for a couple more weeks) I'm waiting for an e-mail from them myself to let me know they are back in stock. The needles and seats come as a set but more than likely you will only need the needles. The needle are tiough and only need to be replaced if damaged. The seats are a PITA to replace and rarely need to be done. If you find a need to replace a float the early years of the VMax carbs are the same for that. When you break down the carbs check the rubber bungs under the block to make sure they fit tightly. They do shrink with age and that can effect carb performance also. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    I ride that route several days a week. It would take nerves to walk out into traffic there. The hospital is only a few minutes from there and I'm sure the man knew he could get him to help before help could get to him. Hoping for a good recovery for the rider. http://www.ketv.com/news/local-news/Mystery-man-saves-motorcyclist-s-life/-/9674510/15851280/-/eli0nez/-/index.html Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    PM Flyinfool, He's been working on making them. Last I heard they were "out for testing". He might be able to help ya out. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Could have been worse ya know.
  6. Snaggletooth
    Thank God I'm not alone in this world after all. I thought it was just me that did things like that. I did the same thing back when I did my second rebuild on the MKI forks a few years back. Made my own plates out of 3/8 steel plate and polished the heck out of them so they would be smooth. Even made a lil place for the o-ring to seat (I hoped). Well much like you I was stunned when the oil ran right out on the ground. So much for straight, flat, smooth and strong. I think my failure was not getting the o-rings spot on an malformed them when I tightened the plates down. But I ordered a set from Earl the next week and when I did the rebuild for the MKII forks I ordered a set for them to. The key to a sucessfull block off plate is to have Earl make em for ya. Worked for me. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Hey Larry, The main reason I changed mine to the spin-on (Rivco) was after finding out how bad the local stealer were gouging into my pocket, and the added conveinence of the spin-on during oil changes. I was buying OEM filters from the stealers when I first bought the bike. For about $6.00 got the filter with the o-ring together. (If they had them in stock) After about the 4th oil change I noticed the o-ring was not in the box. When I questioned the lack of an o-ring they went in the back again and brought out the o-ring in a zip lock sandwich bag with $3.00 written on it. The OEM filter itself was now $7.50 without the o-ring plus the the $3.00 for the o-ring. Another local shop was doing the same thing AFTER waiting a week and a half for the filter to be ordered and shipped. Not cool. But the Rivco adaptor was about $90.00 when I bought mine so it's getting close to breaking even on the intital cost. The spin-on filters I buy run from $3.50 to $5.95 each and can pick one that will fit from about any auto supply store where ever I am. If I had been paying stealer prices it would have paid for itself by now. During an oil change (and I have the '86 lower chin on my '84) I use a plier type filter wrench and reach inside the chin to loosen the filter to remove it. No other parts need to be removed. It takes all of 10 minutes to do a full oil change. As far as the quality of the spin-on fliters, been some discussion on that, I'm not to worried about it. I change my fliters often enough, more often than I did with the OEM setup, that it is a non-issue for me. The Rivco adaptor is nice, but have not seen any other kits available to compare. It's such a simple adaptor I can't imagine a lot of difference between them. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Not from another Yamaha for sure. Way beyond what they have offered. The first pic is the OEM enage clutch which has three, count them THREE roller type enage prangs that are held in place by three springs about the same size as those found in a clicky type ball point pen. Far from what you might call heavy duty. The body of it also comes with cracks when it fails creating that nasty chatter when it goes bad. The second pic is the old (left) and new (right) side by side. The third pic is the old style in the rotor. Note the THREE mounting bolts. The last pic is the new style mounted in the origianl OEM rotor. Note the rotor is machined by Dano to use the six bolt mounting. When Dano installs the new engage he aligns the clutch with the rotor dead center to make the fit spot on. The biggest improvement with the new systen is the 19 elipitical prangs with the SS spring behind them so they have a solid contact and slip free engagement every time. That's 16 more contact points than what you started with. The new system include the new 72 tooth ring gear that is different from the OEM gear also. I was the first one to have this done by Dano and have no regrets on the upgrade. Several years of flawless starting. But as I said, not your stock parts from Yammi. They wish! Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    My neighbor, another rider, limits himself to only certain days with the the "perfect" riding conditions. Not too hot, not too cold and God forbid there be rain in the forecast. He's actually got his bike out a couple times this year. He was giving me grief the other day when it was 88 degrees out when I was leaving at 7 AM. (while he was warming up his cars A/C to cool it off) He was asking "Why the heck you riding in this kind of weather?" I told him because it's hard to get the car up across the sidewalk to drive through peoples sprinklers! So far that is keeping him quiet. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    If you want to ride there are no limits. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    And another curious mind awaits....... Hope I never need to use it but it would be nice to be prepared. And mine isn't all that far from being an antique. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    As far as quality and price goes....... Make your own! Buy bulk wire and new caps at NAPA or any parts store and cut to fit. I think the 7mm solid core wire (same as OEM me thinks) is the old workhorse of plug wires. Some sets sold are 8mm and you will need to shave the wire casing a bit to get it to slide into the cap. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Yep, that "Ride for Gas" thing usually means I'm going to have to stop and fill it up again before I get back to the house. My gas never seems to go stale for some reason. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth

    Lost Key

    Snaggletooth replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    The web site listed is the one I have used and refered others to for a while. Joe, the owner does a nice job and does it quickly. If you have the key code, (off the original key or off one of the locks), you send him that and he asks for a copy of your drivers license and I think a copy of your registration to prove ownership. I had my new keys in a couple days. Every key he made fit every lock on the bike just fine. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Geesh! Give me lil credit will ya. Ain't the first time I've yanked my kids chain. I've run a couple scams on my own kid just for chuckles. I had one of those phony scratch tickets once that was for a $1,000,000 winner. I left it on the kitchen table with a pile of real estate listings for half million dollar homes. I knew she would find it but I never left on about it. She kept giving me the weird looks for a couple days but never said anything. She'd ask me to go some where with her and I'd drive by expensive homes for sale and slow down and gawk at them. I ended up driving out to a new build out at the lake that was being done by a friend of mine. It was a fantastic place facing the lake and the was going to be about a 2 million dollar house. We were walking through the framed house and she was just about ready to burst. She finally asked me "Is there anything you want to tell me?" Well, yeah, ya know that winning ticket you found? It was a FAKE!!! I got to tell ya it was the first time in my life that I ever ran into a lake to get away from somebody. Worth the $2.00 for the phony ticket. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    And there ya go! That's it. Kind of what I figured. Thanks! I feel so much better knowing they won't shut off the phone service I've never had. :rotf: Maybe just for fun I'll forward that to my daughter and tell her she needs to pay her bill. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    In the last few months I've been getting e-mail notices from Verizon Wireless. I had to laugh as I don't, or any member of my family, have or have had any Verizon phone service. The first one was for $949.87 and the one I got today was for $2,471.25. The website shows it as Verizon 2011 and no other info other than "View & Pay Bill" or "Enroll for Autopay". Anybody else seen e-mails like this lately? Glad it ain't my bill. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    Welcome to my world! My friends call me Sparky just because the like to watch me do the electrical work on the bike. They even bought me a fire putter outer thingy for the shop for my birthday. That said I've rewired about everthing that needed to done on my bike, new fuse panel, upgrade stator & R/R harness, driving and marker lights, upgrade horns, power switches, power supply to the trunk and saddlebags, and a head light mod and not once have I managed to set fire to the bike. That is only thanks to the guys here that helped walk me through the systems and advise me on the old "how to's" along the way. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    As far as I can say the only way you will get a "0" reading on the front display is to cap off the line to the forks and the fitting on the air collar itself. Without doing that there will always be some air in the line and subject to compression causing a reading. Even given doing that, with the line capped off, even a touch of the control button would result in a pressure reading just from the air in the line. The only way to avoid that is to create a vent in that line to eliminate possible pressure build up. With that as a choice. I'd rather not have any chance of that line being subject to contanimation in case the time comes to want to add air to the front. I'd leave the line as is and live with the couple pounds showing on the display. Again, my And the manual states to adjust the air pressure with the bike on the center stand and no weight on the bike. You know as soon as the bike hits the ground the pressure displays are going to go up. But glad you found a smooth spot to ride. I tried several different sets of pressures and damper setting with different loads and road condtions over time. You'll find your sweet spot with some trial and error. Some times you have to forget about the book and go by your butt. That said ..... wasn't the book written about 30 years ago before everything was available in "SUPER SIZES"? Somedays I add a lil air pressure after lunch. (to the bike) Ride safe Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    If you have the bike on the center stand with the front wheel off the ground that front reading will probably show lower than 5 lbs. It's always going to show some reading with the bike on the ground. You can't remove all the pressure from something that is always under pressure. I wouldn't worry about cracking the lines myself. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Looks like Randy hit the high points real well. From where you are starting from, I'd say the best place to start from would be getting it ready with the new fuse box. These bikes are picky on the power source. Skydoc_17's set up is complete and easy to install for sure. The old fuse box can create nightmares from the start with everything else so it's a good beginning point. Make sure the battey is fully charged (and charging, should charge at about 14 to 14.5 volts across the battery at 2,000 rpm), Weak batteries are a problem if you have other issues. Is you find you need a new battery the DEKA AGM line is top notch and one of our best choices. As mentioned the Sea Foam is the best medicine for the the fuel system. Get some into the tank and into the carbs. Best to let it sit in the system for a few days to soak and clean. It does wonders to get you started. Before you change the plugs to new, run the Sea Foam first. It breaks down the varnish and gunge in the carbs and it all ends up fouling the plugs. But you have some things to start with so you have some things to think about. We're gonna be around so keep us posted on how it's going. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    Yep, ya need to kick it up a few pounds. I'm 275 solo and if I let it down to 42 I'm feeling it. Most the time I'm solo with gear, cooler and tool kit and gas topped off I run it at 65 to 70 lbs and the damper at 2. Feels pretty good there for me. Try the higher pressure in the rear and try the lower damper setting to find a smoother ride. 3 & 4 can feel kind of stiff to me. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    I'm thinkin' I like it. Yep. I do. Feels good to be at the other end of a project don't it. Congrats! Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    And then it gets hot out and you know what happens then don't ya.
  25. Snaggletooth
    Some times I actually miss my wife. Been out of beer for 20 years. But when I think about it...... Beer was the reason I got married to her. Never mind. I'll get by.
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