Jump to content

Snaggletooth

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,545

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    Pretty sure they used enough to get it started again next spring.
  2. Snaggletooth
    This pic is comparing apples and oranges but it give an idea of the problem that can create. This is the stator plug on a 1st gen. Happens once in a while when a connection gets dirty. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    Got one of Condors braces on my '84. Works well. I kinda call it the "CondorBrace" to keep the "other" folks calm. There was a brace listed in our classified ads in December. Still shows as active. Worth a look. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3861&title=alluminum-fork-brace&cat=6 Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    Mine arrived today. Lookin' gooood! Thanks for putting this together guys! Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    With the pork situtation being what it is lately.........I'd have roped that porker and dragged it home. But that's just me. I'm gonna miss my bacon. Glad you were able to avoid any confrontation with the old ham hock. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    With the DEKA you have two mounting locations on each post, which is a solid cast by the way, not the U style post you have to install the nut inside of. Big PLUS in my book. The primary connection is the top of the post just like the OEM battery. Kind of hard to see in the pics but it's there, and quite solid. There is a secondary connection point on the side of the post, the front of the battey when in the bike, used with provided flat sided spacers to clear the shape of the body casting where you can attach other power lines. I like the extra side mounting feature as it provides a way to clean up the wiring on the top of the battery when installing extra power feeds. I've been using the same DEKA ETX18L in my '84 for almost 5 years now I think. Since the beginning of the threads where we were discussing it. The info still stands. The battery is an outstanding improvement to the bike. Mine has been absolutley trouble free and dependable. It's tough. I know you are on the other side of the border but I'd check around and see if you can come up with a better price. Like Condor said Bohannon Battery has been an excellent provider here in the state and I think skydoc_17 (Earl) is still selling them also. I don't know what the shipping would be to Canada. But it's worth checking into. You won't regret the DEKA. Good stuff. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Been fillin mine to the bottom of the fill hole for 5 years. On third change. No issues in 26,000 miles. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Yep, #40 is just the cap for the plug to keep grit out. Best to do this when the drive is heated from running..... but since you are alreadly there..... If you can get any bite at all with the SAE I'd get after it with a hand impact driver to break it loose. If the SAE don't bite I'd try a Torx bit and drive it in and try the hand impact again. I've saved a few headaches with the Torx bits. Gets a lil more bite when the holes are rounded out. I like to work the hand impact back and forth both ways to work it loose until it starts to move. Of course, the rust buster treatment might help ya along to. I wouldn't worry about how much comes out of the drive. It may be low already. You can fill the drive all the way to the bottom of the fill hole and that will be fine. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    I got into the habit of changing the fuel filter everytime I install a new rear tire rather it seems to need it or not. A lot easier to do with the tire off as you have found out.
  10. Snaggletooth
    KIC...... Really? That's kind of a stretch ain't it? Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Accueillir au club. Content que vous nous avez trouvés et apprécie votre temps avec nous. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    I'm with scary on that one. Speed bleeders are great, I have them on my bike but they have their limitations and problems. If the tool works that well I'd stick with it and stay with the standard bleeder myself. Good find. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Looks like ya done yourself proud. Love the look! Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Vid didn't work for me.
  15. Snaggletooth
    Motion Pro carry them to. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0395/ I've gone through a few of them over the years. Mostly used them to clean out a dirty seal on dirt bikes. It will work as long as the seal isn't damaged by debris or scars on the inner legs. It's not a sure fire fix it forever thing but is saves your bacon once it's worth trying. Went through a lot of old 35mm film strips before I was turned onto these. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    Hey John, So back to the forks again eh. First, reinstalling the AD's won't change the situation. It sounds like a mechanical or hydrualic issue. So, if you can, can you post pics of the dissembled fork components in the order they were installed and maybe a pic of each item close up? It's got to be a problem with one or some of the components. Or, I'll post some pics here and if you see anything oddly different about your's let us know. The breakdown is showing the OEM springs and spacers but other than that........ The Progressive instructions are there also for other reference to oil levels. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    :rotf:I'll bet his helper gets taught how to install the breather hose on the air box first thing. Hands are the right size for it. :crackup:
  18. Snaggletooth
    If it's red and a woven cover...it's OEM. Time for a change for sure. If you are saying the petcock on the pickup side, inside the tank has no strainer on it, it should be replaced. I found several for my '84 on the Pinwall site for about $10.00. If I remember right the '83 has a single pickup. Only on/off. But the '84 has a duel pickup with differnt heights inside for the run/reserve. Problem I was having was both pickup screens/filters on the petcock were badly damaged and rust flakes were dumping directly into the petcock right off the bottom of the tank and clogging the fuel filter, the pump and going into the carbs. Makes a heck of a mess. I'd take the chance and replace to the petcock and the fuel lines completely. Like I said, a good time to line the tank and end any furture problems also. This is the product I used and highly recommend it. Much better than Kreem and some other products as far as I'm concerned. The tank needs to be cleaned out but ALL the rust does not need to be removed. It's an epoxy based sealer that actually bonds better to the rusty surfaces. It feels like a Thermos bottle inside when it's done. http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    I'm one of the guys that did the seal with the screen spine material. It works. I did the top trunk a few years ago and it's still water tight. It's a bit of a job digging the old stuff out and pressing in the new seal but it's worth the time to do. One of these days I'll get around to the saddlebags. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Yep. I'd say it's time for new fuel lines all through the system. The old line may even be collasping on the inside and restricting fuel flow. I'm sursprised that feed line to the carbs ain't leaving a puddle under the bike. How does the inside of the tank look? Any serious rust to deal with? Be a good time to line the tank if there is. That solved all of my early fuel problems. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Couldn't of made that any clearer. Well put!
  22. Snaggletooth
    I think you will be fine as you are even with that gap of .0740. I checked mine again and it's not as much as your's, I can't even wedge my fingernail in it. As long as you have the spacer in the right place as it appears you do, and you have torqued the axle to 110 ft. lbs and there is no drag on the rear wheel when you spin it you're in good shape. The axle torque pressure pulls everything into the drive for proper alignment and the right swingarm section really isn't much more than a support point. With the pinch bolt tightened onto the shoulder of axle it that holds the axle from backing out if the nut came loose and keeps the swing arm from walking on the axle shoulder. I'd say you are good to go. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    Nope, shouldn't be any gap. Looks like you have all the parts in the right places. I guess I should rephrase that. The swing arm may not be real tight against the spacer, be a little play there, but not a huge gap. The shoulder of the axle presses against the spacer pulling it all together as the axle nut is tightened. So you should have no side play after the axle is tightened. Once that is done and the pinch bolt on the right is tight it all stays in place. The axle collar inside the seal, the brake caliper bracket then the spacer against the swingarm. Didn't confuse the left side axle washer and the spacer did ya? I don't remember how much differernce they were in thickness but they are different. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    I'll throw this in the hat for future reference on the gas smell. I used to get that smell once in a while and only sometimes in a closed space. I finally found it. Wasn't the most obvious place to see. At one time I'd had the fuel sending unit out of the tank. There is the rubber seal between the unit plate and the tank body. I had thought I had it tight enough when I reinstalled it but I guess not. There was just some seepage at the seal, enough to weep a little gas when the tank was fuel of close to it. Not enough to cause a puddle or a drip but enough to cause the smell. I only noticed it because there was a dust buildup around the sending uint. If the fuel level was low, below the sending unit, I didn't get the smell at all. Something to look at anyway when the smell it there and the carbs look good. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Another blonde lives!!! Eeeks! Two blondes!!! Got to say I am attracted to the blonde ones. Nice. Mike
×
×
  • Create New...