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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    Motion Pro carry them to. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0395/ I've gone through a few of them over the years. Mostly used them to clean out a dirty seal on dirt bikes. It will work as long as the seal isn't damaged by debris or scars on the inner legs. It's not a sure fire fix it forever thing but is saves your bacon once it's worth trying. Went through a lot of old 35mm film strips before I was turned onto these. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Hey John, So back to the forks again eh. First, reinstalling the AD's won't change the situation. It sounds like a mechanical or hydrualic issue. So, if you can, can you post pics of the dissembled fork components in the order they were installed and maybe a pic of each item close up? It's got to be a problem with one or some of the components. Or, I'll post some pics here and if you see anything oddly different about your's let us know. The breakdown is showing the OEM springs and spacers but other than that........ The Progressive instructions are there also for other reference to oil levels. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    :rotf:I'll bet his helper gets taught how to install the breather hose on the air box first thing. Hands are the right size for it. :crackup:
  4. Snaggletooth
    If it's red and a woven cover...it's OEM. Time for a change for sure. If you are saying the petcock on the pickup side, inside the tank has no strainer on it, it should be replaced. I found several for my '84 on the Pinwall site for about $10.00. If I remember right the '83 has a single pickup. Only on/off. But the '84 has a duel pickup with differnt heights inside for the run/reserve. Problem I was having was both pickup screens/filters on the petcock were badly damaged and rust flakes were dumping directly into the petcock right off the bottom of the tank and clogging the fuel filter, the pump and going into the carbs. Makes a heck of a mess. I'd take the chance and replace to the petcock and the fuel lines completely. Like I said, a good time to line the tank and end any furture problems also. This is the product I used and highly recommend it. Much better than Kreem and some other products as far as I'm concerned. The tank needs to be cleaned out but ALL the rust does not need to be removed. It's an epoxy based sealer that actually bonds better to the rusty surfaces. It feels like a Thermos bottle inside when it's done. http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    I'm one of the guys that did the seal with the screen spine material. It works. I did the top trunk a few years ago and it's still water tight. It's a bit of a job digging the old stuff out and pressing in the new seal but it's worth the time to do. One of these days I'll get around to the saddlebags. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Yep. I'd say it's time for new fuel lines all through the system. The old line may even be collasping on the inside and restricting fuel flow. I'm sursprised that feed line to the carbs ain't leaving a puddle under the bike. How does the inside of the tank look? Any serious rust to deal with? Be a good time to line the tank if there is. That solved all of my early fuel problems. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Couldn't of made that any clearer. Well put!
  8. Snaggletooth
    I think you will be fine as you are even with that gap of .0740. I checked mine again and it's not as much as your's, I can't even wedge my fingernail in it. As long as you have the spacer in the right place as it appears you do, and you have torqued the axle to 110 ft. lbs and there is no drag on the rear wheel when you spin it you're in good shape. The axle torque pressure pulls everything into the drive for proper alignment and the right swingarm section really isn't much more than a support point. With the pinch bolt tightened onto the shoulder of axle it that holds the axle from backing out if the nut came loose and keeps the swing arm from walking on the axle shoulder. I'd say you are good to go. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    Nope, shouldn't be any gap. Looks like you have all the parts in the right places. I guess I should rephrase that. The swing arm may not be real tight against the spacer, be a little play there, but not a huge gap. The shoulder of the axle presses against the spacer pulling it all together as the axle nut is tightened. So you should have no side play after the axle is tightened. Once that is done and the pinch bolt on the right is tight it all stays in place. The axle collar inside the seal, the brake caliper bracket then the spacer against the swingarm. Didn't confuse the left side axle washer and the spacer did ya? I don't remember how much differernce they were in thickness but they are different. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    I'll throw this in the hat for future reference on the gas smell. I used to get that smell once in a while and only sometimes in a closed space. I finally found it. Wasn't the most obvious place to see. At one time I'd had the fuel sending unit out of the tank. There is the rubber seal between the unit plate and the tank body. I had thought I had it tight enough when I reinstalled it but I guess not. There was just some seepage at the seal, enough to weep a little gas when the tank was fuel of close to it. Not enough to cause a puddle or a drip but enough to cause the smell. I only noticed it because there was a dust buildup around the sending uint. If the fuel level was low, below the sending unit, I didn't get the smell at all. Something to look at anyway when the smell it there and the carbs look good. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Another blonde lives!!! Eeeks! Two blondes!!! Got to say I am attracted to the blonde ones. Nice. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
  13. Snaggletooth
    I have the LED's in my '84 dash with no ill effects. I have no idea what might be wrong. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    I've been dealing with a very similiar problem with my '84. I've got 66,000 miles on mine with a lot of upgrades and mods and have a lot of trouble free miles in the last couple of years. Recently I've had mine act the same way. Mosty my problem appears at highway speeds after a long, at speed ride. Same issues you're having. I had suspected the fuel pump for a while as the tank was lined a couple of years ago, all new fuel lines were installed and the filter is changed often. I bought the Mr. Gasket 42S as a replacement. I did have a used OEM pump as a backup but wanted to try the 42S as I wasn't sure of the condition of the used pump. When I stripped the old pump out I saw I was going to need to make a bracket to mount the 42S the way I wanted it. So.... time being an issue I went ahead and installed the used pump. The bike primed quickly and the pump cycled fine and for shorter times than the old one. It starts up a bit faster than before and it seems to idle smoother. I've been pressing the bike at speed and RPM's to create a higher fuel demand and it hasn't stalled again. I still intend to install the 42S but as is, it works fine so I have time to make the bracket the way I want. There may be other issues involved but I think the fuel pump may be worth looking into in your situation. Something to consider anyway. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    That looks familiar. Mine hardly ever makes it past the couch to her room.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Amen to that! Been known to say the wrong thing at the wrong time myself.
  17. Snaggletooth
    I went through 3 batteries in the first two years I had my '84. Everything seemed to be in proper order according to what tests and trials I did. But when I installed a digital voltmeter, one that gave numerical readout things started to make sense. The R/R, the OEM at the time was acting up. Running to spec then giving bursts up to to 17.5 volts, then dropping then running high again. I replaced it with an aftermarket unit and that was fine until it started to fail to heat problems. (way too close to pipes) My fault on that one. Once I got an upgrade Shindengen R/R installed properly all my battery problems ended. Been on this battery now for about 4.5 years and still going strong. But it it a DEKA AGM. It's a tough lil bugger. Now I will mention I ride my bike daily for a fair amount of miles. It don't sit for any period of time so the battery is cycled and charging more than a lot of bikes. I feel that alone has a fair amount to do with battery performace. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    I've tried the packaged vac caps to. Waste of time. As soon as the motor heats up they are worthless. I like the idea of the heavy fuel line and plugging them with ball bearings. Next trick to try. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    My '84 does it also in that range. I've done new tires front and rear, check the pressure and balance, installed new head bearings and checked the swing arm. After all was done it was much better but it's still there, Not nearly as bad, but there none the less. Nature of the beast I guess. Adding a lil twist to the gas brings it back to right real fast. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Used to use peanut butter to get gum out of my daughters hair. It does break down the sticky stuff. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    I used those for a while on my '84. I did the seperate harness with a fuse and a relay to protect the circuit. They do offer those replacement bulbs in 20, 35 and 55 watts. The 55's are bright but draining. The 20's would be fine for daylight visabilty but not all that great for night riding. The 35's are not all that bad for night time comparing them to the 55's with a lot less drain. I ended up changing mine out to 35watt, 4.5" sealed bulb headlights in chrome housings that work nicely. With the 35wt bulbs I'm only showing a drop of about .10 of a volt on the meter when I kick them on. I do have the upgrade stator and R/R on the bike but on a stock system that is working correctly you should be fine at .10 of a volt. Watch the prices on those replacement bulbs. I found them at a Menards store for under $3.00 each but other places have been up to $7.00 bucks. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    Even the dumb ones have a grain of good in them..... sometimes. A few years back I woke up from a nice relaxing afternoon nap and opened the front door to check my mailbox. I found a note taped to the door. "I may have bumped into your car." No name, but the address of the daycare across the street from my home. I wandered out to the driveway to take a look. I found my car, a 3,700 lb. Lincoln Towncar stuck a third of the way, up to the windshield, through the garage door. That wasn't were it was when I left it! Bumped? BUMPED!!! Ok, the gargage door was torn off the frame, the grill, hood, windshield and one fender were damaged on the front. On the back the bumper and quarter panel were damaged. There were black skid marks on the concrete from the tires sliding. Long story short...... The driver of the mini school bus admitted she "bumped" my car with the explaination that it was not her fault. "You are NEVER home at this time of day" was her defense. And she didn't think she pushed it "that far" into the garage. It did miss my bike that was parked inside so that was the bright spot of may day. The owner of the daycare refused to give me their insurance company info so I ended up calling the Police. Fat bunch of good that did me. They stated that since it was on private property they could do nothing to help. Even though she backed out of their parking lot and acrosss a public street into my driveway it wasn't their problem. How about "leaving the scene of an accident?" Nope, she left a note. Took 8 months to get that one settled. Even with the admission by the driver, paint and damage on both vehicles matching the other and two neighbors that saw her do it, it was a PITA!! But at least they stopped to let us know right. But it's good to hear your bike wasn't TOO badly damaged. At least they weren't driving a school bus. It ain't right anyway you look at it though. Hope you get it back to right soon. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    Big brother can run pretty good.
  24. Snaggletooth
    This will take you to his profile page. His number is shown there. Across the top is a selection of functions and you can chose the "contact info" to send him a PM or e-mail from there. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/member.php?u=2796 I bought my '84 at the end of '06. Pretty much non-running and a lot of parts torn down in boxes. Had it running by that next spring and with the advice and info offered here, not to mention a ready supply of odds and ends no longer available from the stealers it's been a ongoing project since then with improvements and upgrade mostly created by many of our members. I've got five years of riding in on the bike now with a bit over 30,000 miles on it since I brought it home on a trailer. These old girls are a heck of a ride when they come together. I'm hanging onto this one no matter what else ends up in the stable. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    That clicking will soon turn into a hammering sound as things get worse. If at all possible look into Dano's upgrade engage clutch mod. It's not as pricy as it may look at first glance. Sure the parts alone are not bad if you try to do a rebuild. I had rebuilt one of mine and it ended up failing again. That may have been my own fault as getting the OEM engage aligned properly into the rotor can be a bit of a trick. Last time I checked a new OEM enagage clutch was about $167.00. Dano's mod runs under $300.00, or it was when I bought mine. He does the machine work to your rotor to mount the new engage, installs the engage centered into the rotor and a new, a different 72 tooth ring gear. He can also supply the needed gaskets for the install. I was the first here stateside to have this mod done and have been very pleased with the quality and performance of it. Never a miss or any issue with it at all. But if it comes down to needing a new engage clutch.... Dano's mod is the best answer for the problem. Mike
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