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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    I would say the weight of the mercury is the key factor. Very dense, very heavy. A lighter fluid would be sucked out of the tubes in short order as the standard manometer tubes are quite short. Some have made DIY set ups using several feet of tubing with other liquids that seems to work.
  2. Snaggletooth
    There was a member on the other site that hailed from that area I think. He was a member here a while back but haven't seen him around for a while and I'm not on the other site anymore. He had a beautiful blue MKI that he kept in spotless shape. He had an upholtery busness and had done the interiour of the trunk and the saddle was done with a velour material. He was the one that got me started on doing my trunk and bags. His name was Mike but can't remember his handle at the moment. I've got pics of his bike around somewhere. If I find them I'll post them up and see if it's the same bike. Gonna see if I can figure out his handle. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    Was it extremely clean, all kinds of chrome and a custom seat?
  4. Snaggletooth
    I got rid of my YICS tank years ago and simply crossed the ports with the cut down vacumn lines. I've replaced them since them as they did crack. Somebody was talking about the vacumn cap plugs on the ports on the intake boots a while back and the failure of the caps on them. Someone else mentioned they had driven ball bearings, larger than the port, into short sections of new vacumn line to create a heavy duty cap. Sounds like an idea I'm going to give a shot when I get back to tinkering with the motor this winter. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Thanks but the trailer I'm looking at is already together and on the road. That pic was attached with the others he posted of the trailer. Save me some assembly time and can focus on "improvements". I can't remember the last time I bought something that didn't get "improved".
  6. Snaggletooth
    That's why I'm looking low end right now. For the first time in 7 years I'm not tied to a 7 day a week work schedule. Now I have a chance to wander a bit farther and even actually stop and spend a night or two. All I need is a way to carry a cooler, tent and some extra gear for a couple days when I can get away. Hey! I've tried! I bought my raffle tickets for the Alumas but ya know..... well, I won't harp on that. I know there were death threats involved. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Ok, I'm meeting the sales guy at the dealer later today to check this thing out. What would be the the best tralier wiring adaptor for the hookup? If I remember right there is a powered setup for this that works on the MKI's. (Hoppe?) Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    You're right Bob. Just checked the model number. Harbor Freight. I was wondering if maybe it was the original that the HF was knocking off. Guess not. I was sniffing this one as I had another ad with one of the same pictures. But.....it's at a well none auto dealer near me so I figured it was legit. They are asking $300.00 for it ready to roll so I thought it was worth a look. Maybe $250.00 used eh? Might have to jack up the bike and mount my hitch tonight. Always makes me nuts when I see the same pic over and over in different ads. Makes me smell BS. Looks like this might have been part of a trade in or the like. Thanks Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    Ran across this and going down to take a look at it. As I'm not a trailer guy (yet) I'm open to opinions on this one. Motorcycle load capacity: 200 lbs. Heavy-duty 4.80 x 8" tires 55-MPH maximum towing speed Extends 78" behind vehicle Leaf spring suspension system Bed dimensions: 41-3/8" L x 34-1/4" W x 3-1/2" H Shell dimensions: 47-1/2" L x 38" W x 16" H Tongue dimensions: 49-3/4" L x 2-1/2" W x 1-7/8" H x 14-gauge thick Universal 1-7/8" ball coupler Overall dimensions: 78" L x 44-1/2" W x 38" H Thanks, Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    Here are the directions from Progressive for the install of their springs. Maybe this will help you along. But, I'm going to throw this in the pile. The oil being 5.5 inches from the top of the tubes, with the forks collasped, without the springs is a guideline, not a rule you have to live by. The 5.5" will work fine but there has been a lot of comments on the stiffness of the springs when first installed. Sounds like you are probably past that point. I've had my Progressives in for several years and have played with different preloads and oil weights, 5 & 10 wt. and oil levels in the forks. The 5.5" is pretty much the max level because of the porting in the inner tube for the air system. Any level higher than that might allow oil into the air collars and into the air lines. Makes a mess to clean out and can effect the operation of the C.L.A.S.S. system. Been into that myself. As mentioned in the instructions also that the forks can still operate properly and safely at lower levels. Currently I'm running mine at 6.5" below the top. I feel I've gained a bit of softer ride due to the added air in the forks. Air will compress, oil... not so much. I bought a Foil Oil tool from MotionPro and makes adustments, higher or lower much simpler to do on the bike without the mess. Set the gauge for the depth up want and add or subtract with the plunger. Not needed. but real handy if you do a lot of forks. But that's just my thoughts on it. It works for me. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Prayers up and rollin'. Hate to hear this news. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    Pretty sure they used enough to get it started again next spring.
  13. Snaggletooth
    This pic is comparing apples and oranges but it give an idea of the problem that can create. This is the stator plug on a 1st gen. Happens once in a while when a connection gets dirty. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Got one of Condors braces on my '84. Works well. I kinda call it the "CondorBrace" to keep the "other" folks calm. There was a brace listed in our classified ads in December. Still shows as active. Worth a look. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3861&title=alluminum-fork-brace&cat=6 Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Mine arrived today. Lookin' gooood! Thanks for putting this together guys! Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    With the pork situtation being what it is lately.........I'd have roped that porker and dragged it home. But that's just me. I'm gonna miss my bacon. Glad you were able to avoid any confrontation with the old ham hock. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    With the DEKA you have two mounting locations on each post, which is a solid cast by the way, not the U style post you have to install the nut inside of. Big PLUS in my book. The primary connection is the top of the post just like the OEM battery. Kind of hard to see in the pics but it's there, and quite solid. There is a secondary connection point on the side of the post, the front of the battey when in the bike, used with provided flat sided spacers to clear the shape of the body casting where you can attach other power lines. I like the extra side mounting feature as it provides a way to clean up the wiring on the top of the battery when installing extra power feeds. I've been using the same DEKA ETX18L in my '84 for almost 5 years now I think. Since the beginning of the threads where we were discussing it. The info still stands. The battery is an outstanding improvement to the bike. Mine has been absolutley trouble free and dependable. It's tough. I know you are on the other side of the border but I'd check around and see if you can come up with a better price. Like Condor said Bohannon Battery has been an excellent provider here in the state and I think skydoc_17 (Earl) is still selling them also. I don't know what the shipping would be to Canada. But it's worth checking into. You won't regret the DEKA. Good stuff. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    Been fillin mine to the bottom of the fill hole for 5 years. On third change. No issues in 26,000 miles. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Yep, #40 is just the cap for the plug to keep grit out. Best to do this when the drive is heated from running..... but since you are alreadly there..... If you can get any bite at all with the SAE I'd get after it with a hand impact driver to break it loose. If the SAE don't bite I'd try a Torx bit and drive it in and try the hand impact again. I've saved a few headaches with the Torx bits. Gets a lil more bite when the holes are rounded out. I like to work the hand impact back and forth both ways to work it loose until it starts to move. Of course, the rust buster treatment might help ya along to. I wouldn't worry about how much comes out of the drive. It may be low already. You can fill the drive all the way to the bottom of the fill hole and that will be fine. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    I got into the habit of changing the fuel filter everytime I install a new rear tire rather it seems to need it or not. A lot easier to do with the tire off as you have found out.
  21. Snaggletooth
    KIC...... Really? That's kind of a stretch ain't it? Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    Accueillir au club. Content que vous nous avez trouvés et apprécie votre temps avec nous. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    I'm with scary on that one. Speed bleeders are great, I have them on my bike but they have their limitations and problems. If the tool works that well I'd stick with it and stay with the standard bleeder myself. Good find. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Looks like ya done yourself proud. Love the look! Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Vid didn't work for me.
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