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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    The ETX20L is for the 2nd gen bikes. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/deka.html But the Odessy battery that was popular for the 1st gens was bit smaller than the stock battery also. Some used padding to fill the space and some relocated the TCI into the extra space to make a home for it. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    I thought that last batch was a lil crunchy. Thought I grabbed the Grape Nuts by accident. I worked in the grocery retail stuff for seven years. It would scare the daylights out of most people as how many products are recalled for many different reasons, and when they are recalled. I gotta go. I need to run a magnet through my breakfast. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    I just used a short piece of clear airline tubing left over from the fish tank and connected it to the drain line with a male/male coupler from NAPA. Plug them together and hold it up along side the diaphragm housing where the cast line is. (Center line for the slides) Start the bike and open the drain screw up a turn or two until you see gas rising in the clear line. Match that to the line on the carb body. For the life of me I can't remember how far below the line it should be but I'll check and post if if somebody else don't. It's a good way to check before tearing the carbs off. When I first got into this bike I had the carbs off several times making adjustments until they were all in the same place. I installed new floats from the 1st gen V-Max during that process and haven't had a problem since. Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    You got me to watching it when you posted this morning. Absolutley incredible!!! What a ride!! If anybody has bragging rights....... He's the guy.
  5. Snaggletooth
    Wore out the last set of Avon Venons at almost 25k miles. No problem with them. Installed my second set this spring both with birth dates less than a year old. Got about 4k on them now with no issues. Wearing well and no sign of cracks. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Sweet Ride!! Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the pics. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    DEKA AGM. Top end stuff. These guys are great to deal with but there are other sources also. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/deka/etx18l.html Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    What your'e saying is you found New OEM springs for $59.00? Or you found New "Progressive" springs at a place called OEM? If these are OEM spings (as in stock springs) walk away and buy the Progressive brand. Few bucks more but the stock springs ain't gonna fix the problem. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    Forty? Really? And these kids today worry about getting old. Enjoy your birthday while you can still remember you had one. Happy B-Day Brad. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    Well I'm done with my insurance guy. Pretty painless really. Been with him a long time. All I ended up doing was adding the new Tag-Along trailer to the bike policy and dropping the deductible to $100.00 per vechicle. It only added about $35.00 a year to my cost for the bike policy so I'm still under $300.00 for full coverage on both. With my old deductible the trailer would have been a wash anyway. This way it's a lil bit towards getting another trailer. He did ask me about rebulding the trailer if damaged and it took me a while to quit laughing. I guess he's not familer with Harbor Freight. The trailer is fully covered under the bike policy when I am pulling it or it's attached but the deductible would be $100.00 for each one if in an accident and damaged together. If the trailer would be damaged or stolen when not attached to the bike, rather stored here or left unattended while traveling it would still be covered and a $100.00 deductible. Fair enough. I did talk to him a bit on Golf&Venture method of dealing with his loss from his accident. He remarked that it was a very productive way to get a fair settlement on his bike. He thought it would help any rider of an older bike with a considerable investment made into it. No one will ever recover all the money put into a bike, but the documentation presented helped him out a lot. Kudos to Golf&Venture. So I'm happy with my coverage. I hope it stays that way if I ever need to use it. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Some guys will tell you the "Friction Zone" will damage your clutch. In effect, it fry a dry clutch in short order. These bikes have a wet clutch that is lubricated by the engine oil. (Hence the need to pay attention when buying oil. No engine additive to make it slicker) The wet clutch system is much more forgiving than a dry, but still don't abuse the slippage. This method is pretty safe to use on our bikes. These bikes have a hydraulic clutch so the "Friction Zone", where the clutch is just on the edge of holding is very narrow. Just a small pull on the lever will tell where it's at. You can practice that by trying to get the bike rolling from a stop with the engine idling. With that said, one of the methods taught on the video is learning how to ride the bike at a "slow walk" speed. This is riding the bike in straight line, better to practice now than trying to turn, with the engine just above idle speed. With the clutch just beginning to slip and a very light touch on the rear brake pedal you will find a spot that is surprisingly stable at just a couple miles per hour speed. The gyro effect of the engine has a bit to do with that. Takes a lil practice but once you can ride at a slow walk in a straight line, the slow turns came a LOT easier. By the way.......... Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    There ya go. Pretty much says alot about how to maintain control at low speeds. One of the best things you can do is buy a copy of the video "Ride Like a Pro". That will walk you through handling a heavier than you are used to bike. And even better, how to pick it up if you do drop it. In my experience, and as will be mentioned here and in the video, keep your hands of the front brake during very low speed manuevers until you come to a complete stop. The effect of hard or even moderate pressure on the front brake during slow speed turns will dramatically change the balance of the bike, enough to tip you past the point of control. In my younger days, I rode Goldwings. I had two situations that left me laying on my side. Both low speed, turning corners in city traffic at not much more than idle speed. Once I learned to tail brake (lighting dragging the rear brake) during slow turns and keeping my fingers off the front lever I got past the falling down trick. Haven't done it since. Head to a safe place and practice. You'll get it figured out. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Now I'm really regretting not moving to Bay Minette. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    I'm going over to meet with my insurance agent on Wednesday to talk about my bike coverage and adding the new trailer to my policy. I have no issue with my current policy, as I have never made any kind of claim on my bikes or cars, but want to be clear on the terms he keeps bringing up in our e-mail exchanges. The term is "cash value" which I understend, if I'm correct is what it would cost to replace the vehicle or trailer at the time of loss based on KBB or other info they use. I know some of the headaches many have gone through concerning the value, based on what the bike/trailer was worth to them, compared to the insurers opinion based on their data. I try to keep a current file of bikes similiar to mine that were sold to document the prices on the current market in case I ever suffer a loss. Along with that prices of the parts and farkels I have added over the years, which adds up. I can't whine about the cost of my bike policy as it's only $269.00 a year for full coverage. I'm considering dropping my deductable to $100.00 and that would only raise me to $290.00 per year for full bike coverage, Deductable of $100.00 per vehicle as the deductable would apply to both the bike and trailer seperatley. At the current deducable the trailer (paid $250.00) would about be a wash. Any advice on how to look at this? Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Sounds like I would like to live at your place. At my house I have a security camera in the garage with a motion detector for the inside lights, I keep the forks locked and the car outside literally against the door so it can't be opened. And I've still lost some tools to the varmits. Haven't had many problems since I started wearing a side arm while working in the garage. Guess they are getting the message. Like they say, it pays to advertise. I feel safer leaving the bike on the street downtown at night. Glad you didn't lose anything...... except some sleep. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    Us old 1st Genners have been using the heavier battery cables for a while with great results. Both sides, positive and negative cables. We were doing that upgrade to deal with hot starts due to the 2 brush starters. Major improvement. But the battery is the heart and needs to be alive and well to gain anything from the cable upgrade. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    If you are showing a charge of 13.5 (idle) - 14.2 (above 2k rpm) AT the battery while running I'm going to say the battery itself is most suspect. The charging system sounds like it working fine in that range. If all the connections are clean and tight you should be ok. Make sure the ground wire to the engine is in good shape also. Adding a High Output stator, as well as an upgrade R/R will still charge in that same range but will help keep the charge up when adding more load to the system. It will not help do much to improve a problem like you are having. Best test, with the battery charged.... connect a voltmeter or multimeter at the battery posts and check the voltage. It should be in excess of 12.6 volts or higher. With the test meters still hooked up crank the bike at watch the readings. If the battery is on it's way out, it's gonna be dropping like a rock. Probably going below 10 volts. I'd pull the battery and have a local battery supplier do a load test. That will answer the question for sure. I have the DEKA AGM, almost five years old, and it don't drop below 11.6 during cranking even at cold starts and it's right back to 14.3 at 2k rpm. I'd be sure the issue you are having is cleared up before adding an upgrade to the charging system or you will probably be disapointed with the upgrade. Just my Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    I went ahead an odered the one that M61A1MECH suggested. Figured I'd go with simple and cheap. (plus I found a handfull of other parts I wanted on Amazon while I was looking.) Yea! Free Shipping!! The Hoppy 42655 is probably more than I'd need as with all the lights going to LED there won't be much load on the system. As far as short protection, hoping for the best. I'll try to avoid backing into lake when I pull the boat. But guys, all of you that had suggestions, thanks much for your advice. Once again the wealth of knowledge here is outstanding. Now the wait for parts...... What else should I screw with? Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Bob! That's about the best CYA disclaimer I've seen in a while. I think I might have that printed on some business cars to hand out when I talk to people. Sometimes I have trouble with the PC thing. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    When, and if this goes to trial you'll need a stick to beat the news crews away. At this point I'm sure the dealer and the local enforcement involved are doing their best to keep this out of the news. It makes them all look bad in the pubic eye. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Good to see you up and posting. You take care and recover well. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Steve. Looks like the ticket. Two Wally Worlds, another Auto Zone, another O'Riellys, and a two more NAPA stores and none had what I needed. Amazon it is. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    The rubber gaskets and silicon probably help a bit. I got to looking at pics of added trailer lights last night. Found these that Richie R. installed. The teardrops add the old roadster look. So many options. Thanks Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Looks good Mel. I like the idea of the lights higher up. The favorite traffic game around here it TAILGATING. I know they can't see the stock lights that close to the bike. Now I have a question. I don't care for the plastic material they use on the carrier and I know some have had cracks develope, or found them even on new trailers. Are you considering any method of bonding the edges of the holes you cut for the lights? Epoxy? A light heat treatment to the edges? Just thinking again. Not good. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Good for him! I'm sure in the end he will have a vehicle he likes even better and a lot of respect (or fear) (( known to be the same thing in some cases)) from the dealer he buys it from. Bet the paperwork is right next time. Mike
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