Snaggletooth

These ain't no Honda 750. You won't make much progress sitting on the bike. I'm PM you more info later. Hit the rack. Catch ya later.

I thought I had some pics of the spacer set up for the Progressives but I guess not. The only thing I had handy was the pic of the break down of the stock forks. Of course removing the OEM spring and the long steel spacer. With the new springs they go in first, then use the shaped washer on top of that so it sits inside and centered on the spring. Then the PVC spacer (1/2" or so) on top of that to contact the bottom of the top cap. If you need or desire to add more preload add a washer to the top of the PVC. Probably won't need to add washers for now. Mike

John, you asked about the tips. End of stock pipe, compression sleeve, turndown tip and the spring attachment loop. Tada!

It's been a few years since I used the measured oil method. I've been sticking to the "from the top" for a while. If you did not remove the small drain plug at the bottoms of the forks and actually pump the old oil out that could account for your lower number on the amount of oil added. That reference for the 13.5 ozs. is pretty much for clean, dry and empty. So yeah, the forks should be off the ground and fully compressed to get the level right. The center stand trick....... left hand on the left hand grip, right hand on the left rear guard to lift with and then.... here is the trick. When you put your foot on the foot lever for the center stand, put ALL YOUR WEIGHT on the foot lever as you pull up with your right hand on the guard. Use the weight of your body more than your back to do the heavy work. You'll be surprised how easy it comes up with a little practice.

Yep, a lot of truth there I'm afraid. My daughter helped me set up my new "smarta$$" phone and now when I say "bite me" it displays a set of teeth. I'm not keeping it in my pocket. My kid used to be be into that Social Networking stuff big time. Phone rang day and night. I asked her once how many friends she had and she said about 500. I asked her how many of those she actually saw and talked to in person and she thought about it for a bit. "A couple of girls from work." Point made. Sad world.

Few things to ask here. Did you get the air collars back on the fork in the correct position and sealed over the ports on the fork tubes? Did you tighten the top fork caps so the o-rings seat? Are the air lines connected or plugged off? The oil should be added before the springs, then pumped from fully extended to fully compressed several times until all internal passages are filled with oil and and bubbles cease. The oil level can be at the 5.5" height from the top (fully compressed forks) with the springs not in or some have run them as low as 7.5" below the top. Still within the safe operation range. I run mine at 6.5". Once you get the oil level set then insert the springs. The springs do feel very stiff until you get the weight of the bike and rider on them and get the oil worked through the system. They will seem very stiff compared to the OEM springs. You will more than likely NEVER bottom out the Progressives. I haven't nailed mine to the top yet. I'm just going over some things as I'm got sure how you approached the project. Keep a eye on those seals on the first few rides so you don't oil down your pads. Stopping sucks with a 10wt lube job on them.

Wow! Maybe there's hope for a happy ending for my Old Vetter full face. I've had that since I was racing in my 20's. Dug it out when I bought my HJC a couple years ago. Lot of memories in that bucket. Maybe a Helmet Chucking contest would be a fitting end for it.

If she talked him into wearing a kilt.................. what else could it be?

This answer brings me to another question. Did you install a new gasket when you put the primary cover back on? Even if the gears are in the proper position, and there is only one position that they will go in correctly, the lack of a gasket causes a bind on the gears that will cause problems with rotation. Several have tried to get by without the gasket using only sealer and found the tolerances are too tight. If you have not used a new gasket loosen the bolts on the cover a bit (not removing them) and try it again and see if you get results. And I hope you used a lot of sealer where the stator wires go through the case. This is known problem area for oil leaks when stators are changed out. If jumping across the solenoid posts don't do it try hooking a jumper cable to the positve post on the starter itself and a quick tap on the positive battery post. This should help you eliminate any possible culprits. Keep us posted.

My choice has been the Cortech GX AIR for a couple years. Found them at Motorcyclegear.com at a crazy price. They ran them again at clearance and I picked up two more pair. They are probably pretty close to the ones you have for protection but a shorter cuff. I have a screwed up wrist myself and with the shorter cuff I can wear a wrist brace comfortably without binding up to tight. Go without it when it don't bother me. Good grip and fair protection on the fingers. Very very comfortable glove and wearing well.

The S&W .357 you will love. The .38's aren't bad for plinking either but get used to the .357 rounds as well. Two different animals with a change from one to the other.

I've got my dressed '84 that I (at 275 lbs.) ride solo set up with fork oil at 6.5" below top with 10wt.. I've tried the 5 wt. but didn't like it. I have 1/2" spacers on the tops of the springs and I've added 3 SS washers on top of that over the last couple of years. No C.L.A.S.S. pressure added unless I'm going to throwing sparks in the curves. Also have have Earls block off plates. I'm happy with the ride with this set up. If I had removed as much weight (from the bike) as Steve has I'd probably be trying his oil level myself.

Ah yes!! The "saggers". Can't think of a better reason to own a staple gun.

Swapping jugs ain't no big thang. All the bolts are loose already.

Oh boy this brings back memories. Growing up during the 60's I picked up on ending EVERY sentence with "yaknow". I'm sure I don't need to give examples..... everybody I knew talked that way. Except my parents. I can't even begin to count how many times I got knocked back on my heels for that phrase. Painful speech communication education yaknow. The "No Problem" took effect while I was traveling with a tool auction company. Policy was that NO Buyer would EVER be unhappy with a purchase from our crew. Any complaint was answered with "No Problem" and whatever was broken or faulty was exchanged for a new one, a better one or and improved one. Never a refund... that would have been a problem.

You are correct. If the medical pros DID recommend the use of alcohol and pain meds together then our insurance would have to cover the cost of lobster bibs to. Not a bad way to go to sleep. Damned lousy way to wake up.

Oh geesh, Now I got a hankrin' for a "You're Welcome" button. Thanks

Hey Jim. There is a write up on polishing in the tech section. Gives you a pretty good start. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1065 This got me started when I tried my hand at polishing. Worked well. Things you can add in as you go along to bring it to a higher level. I like you idea.. Send it to Carl!! I'm interested to see what his tricks were.. BTW Carl. Looking good.

Just talked to the provider I'm working with. He's sourcing out some of the connecting lugs to find the correct match for the OEM ones. Working to have these as close as possible to the original cable fit. Progress is being made.

Don...... that's just cold man! (How much is a trailer like that?) ((unknown member))

Hey Jeff, Just sent off an e-mail to my guy to see where he's at with this. Hopefully I'll know something tomorrow. Mike

Ok folks' some good suggestions so far. I've been through several types and brands. I started out with a pair of Olympias I think they were. Supposed to be wind proof and water resistant. Not very good at anything other and than making my hands sweat. Then the liners would pull out of the fingers. The dealer here replaced them three times with what was claimed to be "Improved" models. Yup. Sure. They shed off water ok for an hour or so but not "proof" for sure. And no good before 40 degrees. I started using snowmobile gloves. Warm for a while, and stayed dry but the bulkyness was a drag. Better quality might make a difference. Oddly enough I found a really nice glove at WW. A Wells Lamont waterproof and thinsulate liner. Not too bulky and they did stay dry for a long time. Kept the fingers warm to down into the low teens. Sadly the weak spot was the palm was so slick it was hard to keep a grip. Maybe some traction tape on the palms? So I will look into some of these and see what happens. Have some road tripping coming up soon and I don't want to have my hands be my weak spot. I don't have the heated grips so it's all up to the glove doing the job. Thanks for the imput. Mike

Not seeing it on my smarta$$ phone. You gettin a popup maybe

I just noticed this on the Webbike World listings on the right side of the main screen. http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-gloves/sliders-cold-pro-kevlar-waterproof-gloves/ Anyone familiar with these gloves or tried them? I've become quite disgruntled with the available market for cold/waterproof gloves over the years. None seem to perform any where near what I expect them to. I've tried some rather pricey ones, but won't spend over $100.00 hoping for a decent product. The write up sounds rather impressive but most do until you put them to the test. Just curious if anyone here has tried them. Mike

The tracking shows the set of OEM cables have arrived at the providers shop for them to set up the materials and do an estimate on what the costs of a new set of 4 ga cables might be. So I should have more information soon. Mike