Snaggletooth

A funnel?? Or one of these. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0121/

:sign It wasnt me:I didn't say it...... But I think we are on the same track.

At this point no. With the problems getting the correct lugs I have not received any qoute yet. With them having their own cable business I'm sure the buying power is better than mine so I'm hoping they can beat, or at least match the prices we have had in the past. So I hoping they can beat the $40.00 mark by a bit. I know the costs of materials and the labor time that goes into these so I would not expect anything much lower than $35.00 or $40.00. But I can not give a fixed price at this point. Hopefully once they get the last shipment of the proper lugs we can that settled. I'll keep you all posted as soon as I know for sure. I've made arrangements to have the first set sent to make sure of the quality and the fit to the bike so there will be no question on the the product being what we need and the workmanship. Mike

I know how ya feel Luke. When I bought my bike in '06 I wanted to get a rear light bar/bumper for it right away. Found a few and pretty pricey back then. I found one on fleaBay for a low price and snapped it up. Got it and found some pieces were missing. The seller bless his soul did some very clever photo shots so you couldn't see everything. But the rest looked good. LOL. Over the next year I found a few other lightbars cheap and was able to find more pieces I needed. I finally had to fab one panel and it was almost ready to mount. Except the inside struts. A member here parted his bar out and I got my struts. About ready to mount it up and decided I might as well install a hitch before I put the bar on. Another year of searching looking for the best deal and checked the ad photos a lot closer. I do have a learning curve. Got my hitch and danged if it wasn't mssing a piece or two also. Back to the digging and found pieces here and there. While I was waiting to find those I installed the rear bar. So after all that shopping around, digging in old parts, fabbing pieces and pulling the light bar off the bike.... again, I got it all together. In the fall of 2012. Took a while but with the help of the guys here it worked out fine. Looks like you will probably get yours together a lot faster than I did. :bowdown:I love this place.

Go ahead...... Admit it! Other than those "Hold my beer" moments there has to be something that has crossed your mind that goes beyond any rational thought process. Even if it's just for a few seconds...... You thought about it.

Sorry to hear that. RIP Dusty

Progress is being made....... I haven't forgot about you guys. At the last conversation with the provider I've been working with they were sourcing some of the lugs needed. I spoke with them today and they received the shipment of lugs they were waiting for and ........ You guessed it! One size is wrong. They are working to get that corrected ASAP. Still in the works. Don't give up yet. Keep you posted. Mike

The Tender Jr. only has fuses on the two links that can be plugged into the main lead.(one with lugs to the battery terminals and second one with the clamps.) Nothing internal, of anything that can be checked that I know if. The only way to be sure of finding the problem would be checking the volts directly off the battery and again off the Tender with a meter. Or if you have a head light handy jump the light connections from the Tender clamps and see if it lights up. Then jump the plug from the Tender to the head light. See what happens. I've never seen an AGM dead to the bone out of the box. Not impossible but with a DEKA, I'd be surprised. But it's possible. And you're right the solid red shuold indicate the battery is charging. The solid green shows fully charged. But HOT! Something ain't right. But the Tender you have will be fine for the AGM but once you find your problem I doubt you'll ever need it. My ETX18L is going on five years old and never been charged. Never dropped low enough to worry about it.

I've been getting several bikes ready for the season lately and dug out my Tender Jr. to charge a few up. This is what I'm seeing. As stated the Tender Jr. is NOT a charger. For a serverly discharged battery they will not bring it back to a full charge. Not designed for that. With batteries just needing to be topped off they work fine. I'm seeing similar results with both L/A and AGM's during the top off process. The Tender I use is 750ma's. The indicator lights show as they should during the charge according to instruction. I'm using a muiltimeter and a digital voltmeter to monitor the charge voltage using the Tender. With a low battey of either type the Tender is showing at 14.5 volts during the initial charge then dropping to 13.2 volts as it tops off in the float mode. That's as it should be. They dont shut off, just maintain a charge. With a severly discharged battey of either type the Tender will charge over a longer period of time. 24 hours or more. BUT.... what I'm seeing is with the Tender only charge the displayed volts will not hold and drops much quicker sitting dormant after the charge. Using a regular battey charger first to bring the battery to full charge gives the battery a deeper charge and holds the voltage stable for a longer peroid of time sitting dormant. All I know is what I've been told by battery supplier and what I've read. The AGM's reguire at least 14.5 volts to charge propery. The Tender does do that. My Tender does get warm on some batteries, but never hot to touch. Never blown a fuse on it either.

At least it wasn't from a vegemite sandwich...... from a land down under. That would be dire.

Been trying to connect for quite a while. Not getting any action here.

Yep, a reliable tailor shoud be able to fix you up fine. We have a shop down here called "The Sneaker Doctor". Well that's his main line of work and these days he's doing more business than the corner cobbler. BUT..... he has a zipper service in his shop also. Pants and jeans, boots and gloves, hoodies and jackets, camping gear and anything with a zipper. Either he repairs it or replaces it. I lost count of how many zipper keepers he's done for me while I was standing at the counter in a few minutes. Tell him what you don't like about a zipper and he'll find one that suits your needs. I've had him replace zippers in SWAT boots and leather jackets for me. Drop them off and have 'em back in a day or two. Might check around and see if you have somebody like that locally. I've replaced my own zippers to. I really like having somebody else to it.

That sucks Earl. I'm not a big fan grabbing a lawyer over stuff but I'd have good one in a headlock over this one big time! If this guy has any kind of medical issues in his past and still driving somebody should be stepping up real fast and waving money at you to settle up before it goes to court. Just ain't right man. Hope it works out in your favor. Mike

Let me see............How would I finish that sentence?............. I'm gonna drop a bag full of cash at Dingys place and let him go nuts with it. :mo money::mo money: Let me clarify that.... TO BUILD THE BIKE OF MY DREAMS!!! (for me) :bowdown:I like what he does. Don't panic Gary. With my luck with the Lotto you probably won't be getting a call anytime soon.

Well, yeah.... there is always that.

I think I got around the latch and locking issue. And on the cheap. Looking at the latch lever it does have a slot in it. Pic# 1 By cutting a piece of metal strap just wide enough to fit through the slot I made a long sided "L" bracket that will mount using the existing bolts for the latch. Pic# 2 With the right bend and length of the long side of the "L" should slip through the slot when the latch is closed. Pic# 3 Drill a hole in the exposed "L" through the slot and you can padlock them up. Some thin foam rubber insulation stripping around the inside of the box top lip adds just enough to hold the latches tighter. Theft proof.... no.... but will slow the casual snatch and run guy down a bit. Maybe a lil better water proofing and less rattle. Got something to do today anyway. Hey, it's not a perfect world.... but it's all mine. :rotf: Did I mention it's cheap?

Quick! Before the smell goes away!! Get your powder coating done!!!

Or.... as long as you're in there...... This thread, post# 11 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73396&highlight=exhaust+collector Good way to go.

Works the same way with kitten and puppies. "Free" ones take forever to give away. With a price tag they suddenly are a a worthwhile addition to someones home. They're gone in a day. Or take your garbage and wrap it up in gift wrap and leave it in the back of your pickup. Won't be there long enough to start to stink.

That will get you there. Some have tried to hook that probe lead directly to the power source without the resistor fix done. Not a good idea. Will crisp the CM. Just a reminder.

The trailer is rated at what? 600 lbs right? I have to wonder how much difference there is with that number after removing the over loads. Like I'm going to pull that much. Don't think so. LOL! Yep, some have and I concidered it. I wondered how much effect it would actually have. I mounted my Drift camera on the rear crash bar facing to the rear and hooked up the trailer and went for a ride. (with the overload springs in) The first trip was empty and I discovered how much time the tires actually spend off the road. A lot more that I expected. Lots of day light under the rubber on an average road surface. Which I say is a cause of tire wear. With a normal day trip or light weekend gear load, the tires stayed on the ground just fine. A little rough bounce on a bad bump but nothing too serious. So I loaded it down with every thing I would take in a long, I'm living outa here, camping, fishing, fixin' broken stuff, cooler and firewood trip. Probably over 225 lbs or more. The camera showed a smooth ride, no serious bounce and no lean through the curves. I'm going to leave the overload springs in for now.

I can't go to McMaster Carr. I got to get my CC out every time I log it there. Jeff's got me beat. He opened an account with them. That place is addictive. But since you said so............I'll go "Look".

Thanks, That looks interesting. Cheap enough to experiment with to.

After 13 years of flat bedding I never wanted to see another strap on a trailer. Yuk! But....... Guides I got. Plenty of rifle sling hardware in the shop. One on the top would keep it from sliding back. And quickly detachable when not needed. A couple to D-Rings at the attachment point where the the lower box support strap bolts onto the lower body would be as good a any place to mount those. A simple slip grip on the strap would be plenty. Not a lot of pressure needed. For you guy that have the strap whistle problem..... a half twist in the strap on any long exposed section of strap should quiet that right down. Used to get a dozen straps on a load and it would set up quite a hum. A twist or two shut 'em right up. Looks like I'll have to settle for a hasp and padlock for my extra security. Seems silly as the body can be made into a convertable with a decent lock blade but it should slow a BG down a bit.

Hang on! The rest the guys are coming!