Snaggletooth

I've been getting several bikes ready for the season lately and dug out my Tender Jr. to charge a few up. This is what I'm seeing. As stated the Tender Jr. is NOT a charger. For a serverly discharged battery they will not bring it back to a full charge. Not designed for that. With batteries just needing to be topped off they work fine. I'm seeing similar results with both L/A and AGM's during the top off process. The Tender I use is 750ma's. The indicator lights show as they should during the charge according to instruction. I'm using a muiltimeter and a digital voltmeter to monitor the charge voltage using the Tender. With a low battey of either type the Tender is showing at 14.5 volts during the initial charge then dropping to 13.2 volts as it tops off in the float mode. That's as it should be. They dont shut off, just maintain a charge. With a severly discharged battey of either type the Tender will charge over a longer period of time. 24 hours or more. BUT.... what I'm seeing is with the Tender only charge the displayed volts will not hold and drops much quicker sitting dormant after the charge. Using a regular battey charger first to bring the battery to full charge gives the battery a deeper charge and holds the voltage stable for a longer peroid of time sitting dormant. All I know is what I've been told by battery supplier and what I've read. The AGM's reguire at least 14.5 volts to charge propery. The Tender does do that. My Tender does get warm on some batteries, but never hot to touch. Never blown a fuse on it either.

At least it wasn't from a vegemite sandwich...... from a land down under. That would be dire.

Been trying to connect for quite a while. Not getting any action here.

Yep, a reliable tailor shoud be able to fix you up fine. We have a shop down here called "The Sneaker Doctor". Well that's his main line of work and these days he's doing more business than the corner cobbler. BUT..... he has a zipper service in his shop also. Pants and jeans, boots and gloves, hoodies and jackets, camping gear and anything with a zipper. Either he repairs it or replaces it. I lost count of how many zipper keepers he's done for me while I was standing at the counter in a few minutes. Tell him what you don't like about a zipper and he'll find one that suits your needs. I've had him replace zippers in SWAT boots and leather jackets for me. Drop them off and have 'em back in a day or two. Might check around and see if you have somebody like that locally. I've replaced my own zippers to. I really like having somebody else to it.

That sucks Earl. I'm not a big fan grabbing a lawyer over stuff but I'd have good one in a headlock over this one big time! If this guy has any kind of medical issues in his past and still driving somebody should be stepping up real fast and waving money at you to settle up before it goes to court. Just ain't right man. Hope it works out in your favor. Mike

Let me see............How would I finish that sentence?............. I'm gonna drop a bag full of cash at Dingys place and let him go nuts with it. :mo money::mo money: Let me clarify that.... TO BUILD THE BIKE OF MY DREAMS!!! (for me) :bowdown:I like what he does. Don't panic Gary. With my luck with the Lotto you probably won't be getting a call anytime soon.

Well, yeah.... there is always that.

I think I got around the latch and locking issue. And on the cheap. Looking at the latch lever it does have a slot in it. Pic# 1 By cutting a piece of metal strap just wide enough to fit through the slot I made a long sided "L" bracket that will mount using the existing bolts for the latch. Pic# 2 With the right bend and length of the long side of the "L" should slip through the slot when the latch is closed. Pic# 3 Drill a hole in the exposed "L" through the slot and you can padlock them up. Some thin foam rubber insulation stripping around the inside of the box top lip adds just enough to hold the latches tighter. Theft proof.... no.... but will slow the casual snatch and run guy down a bit. Maybe a lil better water proofing and less rattle. Got something to do today anyway. Hey, it's not a perfect world.... but it's all mine. :rotf: Did I mention it's cheap?

Quick! Before the smell goes away!! Get your powder coating done!!!

Or.... as long as you're in there...... This thread, post# 11 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73396&highlight=exhaust+collector Good way to go.

Works the same way with kitten and puppies. "Free" ones take forever to give away. With a price tag they suddenly are a a worthwhile addition to someones home. They're gone in a day. Or take your garbage and wrap it up in gift wrap and leave it in the back of your pickup. Won't be there long enough to start to stink.

That will get you there. Some have tried to hook that probe lead directly to the power source without the resistor fix done. Not a good idea. Will crisp the CM. Just a reminder.

The trailer is rated at what? 600 lbs right? I have to wonder how much difference there is with that number after removing the over loads. Like I'm going to pull that much. Don't think so. LOL! Yep, some have and I concidered it. I wondered how much effect it would actually have. I mounted my Drift camera on the rear crash bar facing to the rear and hooked up the trailer and went for a ride. (with the overload springs in) The first trip was empty and I discovered how much time the tires actually spend off the road. A lot more that I expected. Lots of day light under the rubber on an average road surface. Which I say is a cause of tire wear. With a normal day trip or light weekend gear load, the tires stayed on the ground just fine. A little rough bounce on a bad bump but nothing too serious. So I loaded it down with every thing I would take in a long, I'm living outa here, camping, fishing, fixin' broken stuff, cooler and firewood trip. Probably over 225 lbs or more. The camera showed a smooth ride, no serious bounce and no lean through the curves. I'm going to leave the overload springs in for now.

I can't go to McMaster Carr. I got to get my CC out every time I log it there. Jeff's got me beat. He opened an account with them. That place is addictive. But since you said so............I'll go "Look".

Thanks, That looks interesting. Cheap enough to experiment with to.

After 13 years of flat bedding I never wanted to see another strap on a trailer. Yuk! But....... Guides I got. Plenty of rifle sling hardware in the shop. One on the top would keep it from sliding back. And quickly detachable when not needed. A couple to D-Rings at the attachment point where the the lower box support strap bolts onto the lower body would be as good a any place to mount those. A simple slip grip on the strap would be plenty. Not a lot of pressure needed. For you guy that have the strap whistle problem..... a half twist in the strap on any long exposed section of strap should quiet that right down. Used to get a dozen straps on a load and it would set up quite a hum. A twist or two shut 'em right up. Looks like I'll have to settle for a hasp and padlock for my extra security. Seems silly as the body can be made into a convertable with a decent lock blade but it should slow a BG down a bit.

Hang on! The rest the guys are coming!

Price is good. I've ordered from them before with no issues. You should be fine.

Jeff makes some good points. Short and informative. When just mailing a resume or dropping one off without an interview scheduled a cover letter is helpful to the HR folks. If it reads well they will take time to read the resume. If your going face to face to meet with the person hiring it's a waste of paper. I spent several years in mangement in the transportation industry. One of my memorable, but failed resumes was a 3 page cover letter including personal history and a four page resume on pastel paper in pink cursive print...... and perfumed. It's a business transaction. Keep it on that level. Just for info, I didn't hire that guy.

That's kind of where I'm at. Not finding anything that fits or takes a bunch of mods to make it work. Of course the plastic box body don't make it any easier. The lock change over is doable but the latches are not much more than barely functional. I know, I know..... It's HF. So I thought I'd ask around.

Try this web site. I went here while rebuilding my last resume. I try to tailor the cover letters to fit the requirements of each job and highlight my skills. Then again, it hasn't been working all that great for me lately. http://jobsearch.about.com/od/coverlettersamples/a/coverlettsample.htm This should help a bit to walk you through it. Good luck. Mike

That's the number I see for the ones for your bike. http://www.progressivesuspension.com/prodSearchResults.aspx?yearID=1988&makeID=48&modelID=529 They are all the same number for MKI and MKII models.

One of my old crowd tried that with a 900 Kaw. I took it apart and carried it a piece at a time down his basement stairs and spent the winter rebuilding it. He had plenty of time and ended up putting it all back together ........ In the basement. Even ran and tuned it down there. When spring came around he didn't want to take it all apart and carry it back out. He tried to ride it up the the stairs. Almost made it. That was about the time his wife called me to come over and help him get the bike picked up and out of the way. I missed all the fun. Would I have stopped him from trying? I don't know. Would have been interesting to watch.

Nope, these are the actual latches on either side of the lock to clamp the top of the box down tight. Which they do a rather poor job of. So looking for something better. I remounted the box with "J" hooks and have a cargo net and straps to secure the load inside so I'm covered there.

On the subject of Tag-A-Long trailers has anyone found a better quality lock assembly and I like to replace the two tie down latchs with something better. Maybe even a locking tie down latch. Mike