Snaggletooth

Yeah, once you get used to the good stuff everything else seems like a failure. It still is charging the battery fine and keeps it topped off. No drain there. But............ ya know...... don't feel right. It's like a cutie flashing ya. Wanna see it all the time.

Not according to two different multimeters. They all show the same flux.

What ever happened to magnetos and kick starters? Life was simple back then.

Not until needed. I just installed a new water pump and went through all that. The fan is never on when this happens.

I had have a charging problem develope and it's driving me up the wall. I'm always bragging on the set up I have as being the most reliable thing going. I have the digital voltmeter in the dash. Down to the 10ths. When the bike fires up it always shows 14.4 volts unless I add a lil drain with the driving lights. Then it only drops to 14.2 at the lowest. It's developed a trick where going down the road it will suddenly drop to 13.8 to 14.0 range with no load. With the driving lights on it drops to 13.2 to 13.4. All of a sudden it will go back to 14.4 again for a while. This is all randon and unpredictable. Never exceeds the 14.4 volts. I figured a connection was the issue. So I spent the day stripping the bike down and checked all the wiring. I have the charging system on a complete seperate shielded harness and found no weak spots. The wiring for the driving lights are on their own harness to. No problems found. All connections clean and tight everywhere. Even pulled the Hella Projectors out to check wiring in the bucket. It's tight in there I always think about a wire getting rubbed. All my stator and R/R wires are soldered and shirnk wrapped. The Buckeye upgrade stator is putting the same reading as it always has. The DEKA is over four years old but preforms as always. It's fully charged and I had it load tested today. Still in top condition. The R/R is the Shindengen I installed a couple years ago. (but it's becoming suspect) Checked and cleaned all grounding points and cable connections on the bike. Even doubled checked wiring for the trailer and convertor. This can happen hot or cold. Don't seem to matter. It started doing its act today running on the stand with all wires exposed and nothing being touched. I'm open for suggestion here guys. I'm at a loss.

John sent me these pics of his problem Thought I'd add them on for him. They are from his cell phone so a lil small.

Yep, the high reading sounds like a failing R/R. Mine did that about 30 miles from home. Barely made it back.

It didn't fall in there by accident I know that. It was inside the spring. But only on one side. I guess he didn't want that side to bottom out anymore. What the word everybody uses these days? Maroons!!!!!!!

Ouch. Can't say nothing today. Just did my water pump and got the "L" sealed up.

Hydrualic oils are a basic 5wt. I tried it when I was playing around with the ride on my '84. Being a bigger guy at 265 lbs I went back to the 10wt for a little firmer feel. This was all during the use of the Progressive. It does work and it is alot cheaper. A lighter rider wanting a softer ride may be happy with it.

I've been into 6 sets of MKI forks and never seen them. I've only had three sets opened up from the MKII's and only two had them in. Not saying the one set missing them didn't have them at some point. Probably a MKII thing at best guess. Gary has done a lot of research on the oil flow through the forks and the anti-dive systems so I'm sure he can say exacty what they do and rather or not you could get away with not using them. I got this thing about if it came out, it's going back in. Makes it interesting when you only get one part out of two forks. I'm still trying to figure out the purpose of a section of rebar I found in one set.

I got to say the there must be something that attracts drivers to homes of bike owners. Remember when Godlover had uninvited guests in his garage? Makes a guys wanna live a mile from the road down a dirt path. We have a family here that has had their house hit three times by drivers missing the curve. They finally set a row of sawed off telephone poles all around the property to fend off the cars. Set in the ground 6 foot deep, four feet tall and 8 foot apart. So far so good. Haven't seen them on the news for a while.

It sits inside, dish down, in the lower leg of the fork and the oil lock sits inside of it. Only found on some models. A few pics thanks to Dingy and his research. Gary could tell you more about it when he pops in I'm sure.

Yep, your good to go.

See, I knew it. Just toss it away like, like ... .ah damn, like a used motorcycle. Make sure it gets a good home and tell the new owner about us so we can still visit the old girl. But understandable. I'll cross you off the list. Now go get some shiny stuff for the new ride.

That's the plan. All three and a 10ga tail for the main fuse on the short positive cable.

who's bragging here? My good intentions are going with Bongo. Sometimes the sidetrack is more fun to take. yep.

A funnel?? Or one of these. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0121/

:sign It wasnt me:I didn't say it...... But I think we are on the same track.

At this point no. With the problems getting the correct lugs I have not received any qoute yet. With them having their own cable business I'm sure the buying power is better than mine so I'm hoping they can beat, or at least match the prices we have had in the past. So I hoping they can beat the $40.00 mark by a bit. I know the costs of materials and the labor time that goes into these so I would not expect anything much lower than $35.00 or $40.00. But I can not give a fixed price at this point. Hopefully once they get the last shipment of the proper lugs we can that settled. I'll keep you all posted as soon as I know for sure. I've made arrangements to have the first set sent to make sure of the quality and the fit to the bike so there will be no question on the the product being what we need and the workmanship. Mike

I know how ya feel Luke. When I bought my bike in '06 I wanted to get a rear light bar/bumper for it right away. Found a few and pretty pricey back then. I found one on fleaBay for a low price and snapped it up. Got it and found some pieces were missing. The seller bless his soul did some very clever photo shots so you couldn't see everything. But the rest looked good. LOL. Over the next year I found a few other lightbars cheap and was able to find more pieces I needed. I finally had to fab one panel and it was almost ready to mount. Except the inside struts. A member here parted his bar out and I got my struts. About ready to mount it up and decided I might as well install a hitch before I put the bar on. Another year of searching looking for the best deal and checked the ad photos a lot closer. I do have a learning curve. Got my hitch and danged if it wasn't mssing a piece or two also. Back to the digging and found pieces here and there. While I was waiting to find those I installed the rear bar. So after all that shopping around, digging in old parts, fabbing pieces and pulling the light bar off the bike.... again, I got it all together. In the fall of 2012. Took a while but with the help of the guys here it worked out fine. Looks like you will probably get yours together a lot faster than I did. :bowdown:I love this place.

Go ahead...... Admit it! Other than those "Hold my beer" moments there has to be something that has crossed your mind that goes beyond any rational thought process. Even if it's just for a few seconds...... You thought about it.

Sorry to hear that. RIP Dusty

Progress is being made....... I haven't forgot about you guys. At the last conversation with the provider I've been working with they were sourcing some of the lugs needed. I spoke with them today and they received the shipment of lugs they were waiting for and ........ You guessed it! One size is wrong. They are working to get that corrected ASAP. Still in the works. Don't give up yet. Keep you posted. Mike

The Tender Jr. only has fuses on the two links that can be plugged into the main lead.(one with lugs to the battery terminals and second one with the clamps.) Nothing internal, of anything that can be checked that I know if. The only way to be sure of finding the problem would be checking the volts directly off the battery and again off the Tender with a meter. Or if you have a head light handy jump the light connections from the Tender clamps and see if it lights up. Then jump the plug from the Tender to the head light. See what happens. I've never seen an AGM dead to the bone out of the box. Not impossible but with a DEKA, I'd be surprised. But it's possible. And you're right the solid red shuold indicate the battery is charging. The solid green shows fully charged. But HOT! Something ain't right. But the Tender you have will be fine for the AGM but once you find your problem I doubt you'll ever need it. My ETX18L is going on five years old and never been charged. Never dropped low enough to worry about it.