Snaggletooth

Carl, just reading info from the link. Title says AGM, specs show L/A. Granted, same in the respect of the chemical effect used, but very different. It's to the point of where I'm suspicious of companies selling "off brand" AGM type batteries. So many places around will tell you AGM and Gel are the same or L/A and AGM are the same thng. Had a local auto supply shop tell me, when I requested an AGM that they would get it filled up and charged for me. I'm saying buyer be informed.

The link you posted says Lead/Acid. Same as OEM. 12 V18AH216 WattsLead Acid Nut and

Just for more information. Here is a link on the JBM install. Simpler? Maybe, but no going back once you start removing the retainers. http://www.jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html

Ah that's a shame. A lot of good times there chowing and swapping BS in the bar with the locals. Never had a bad meal, poor drink or met anybody that wasn't likeable there. They made it easy no doubt. $6.00 for a pitcher of Wild Turkey and (a little) Coke. LOL! I was always waiting for Garrison Keillor to come strolling in. Nice town. Mike

Oh heck, You're from St. Cloud!! The Ground Round still open? Spent a lot of years with ATS up there. yep, just checked my notes. Club price is $79.99 and $12.50 shipping.

Yes, but it's sort of indirect. I did contact Martin first to comfirm availablity. I was instructed to make the payment through PayPal directly for the club discount price. I set up a PP payment as personal and included the SD1X4 part number and description, my full name and mailing address. Then my club name with the VentureRider group. Set the total amount for the $92.49 USD. (shipping is included in that. $12.50 I think it was) To their PP addy: paypal@siriusconinc.com I got a comfirmation e-mail from one of the service gals same day and shipped the next. These folks have always been great to work with and never an issue with service. Just give yourself a manicure. Your thumbnails are your best tools for setting the edge between the retaining rings. Mike

Imbed a virus in this pic and title it "Flashing Friday" and send it to him. He'll open it.

I just did the OEM replacements from Sirius. I wanted to leave the slides undamaged as I understand with the JBM's you have to remove the plastic rings to install them. If you use the Sirius set, you can always replace them again. With the JBM set you would have to use only the JBMS's again because of removing the retaining ring. The install was slick and fairly quick using a bit of silicone spray. The Sirius SD1X4 set improved the starting, idle smoothness and performance so far. Take awhile to determine fuel use decrease. Fit was same as OEM. Total on Sirius set was $92.49 including shipping. My

Every now and then you run across a story that reminds you it's tough living outside for man and beast. It's not just snow falling in South Dakota this week: Turkey vultures have also been dropping from the sky. Apparently the freezing rain was so bad around Sioux Falls earlier this week that some of the birds iced over and fell onto the houses of local residents, reports the Argus Leader. One man found a turkey vulture hiding under a table, frozen but still alive, after crashing onto his deck—and another, less lucky bird that died when it crashed into his roof. "I felt bad for the guy, I really did," he says of the surviving bird. "I hope he's all right." Animal Control has fielded several similar calls from other residents.

Well, you've found your problem. I'll tell you from experience that the fuel filter will catch most of it, but not all. Some particals will get past it and work into the fuel pump and all the way into the carbs. Then you got some cleaning to do. Consider making a new, or even used petcock a priority. The petcock filter is your first defense.

I replaced my waterpump on my '84 with a rebuilt unit a while back. I had plans to rebuild my old one and replace the plastic impeller with a metal one. I found a used metal impeller, and a couple of "L" tubes". Then I found the rebuilt unit. The rebuilt one I got had the metal impeller already installed. For someone headed into that project here's what I have to offer. The old water pump housing and cover I removed. (good shape, no damage) A used metal impeller. (2) used "L" tubes. One has a minor ding like so many others. A few assorted extra gears and pins. It's a way to plan ahead to do a quick R/R if you have a leaking pump or want to replace the old plastic impeller. (and it gives you a chance to paint or polish) You'll need the new parts, bearing, oil seal, mechanical seal, o-rings and a gasket. But if you want it, cost of shipping is all it will cost.

Yours pic looks better than mine.

Checked my parts manual and it shows the single pickup only for the '83 model. Part # 26H 24500-00-00 Stand tube with screen sticks up out of top of petcock. The screen is part of the tube. Screens are not replacement items. Tried when the screens failed on my '84. Only petcock assembly. Looking for a pic.

Thanks for that tip. I'm gonna give that a shot.

Most guys never turn the petcock off. They just leave it on "reserve" or "on" postition. That's why most of them don't move very easy. Lack of use. No problems leaving them on. Because of tank placement and fuel pump little problem of flooding the carbs with the fuel left on. If you decide to pull the tank consider the easy path. By removing the rear subframe with everything attached to that intact you save a bunch of time and effort. One person can do it but an extra pair of hands is nice to reinstall it. I'm trying to remember. The '83 only has a single pickup? If so the petcock will be off or run only. You said the inside pickup "didn't have much going on". Is there a screened pipe sticking up from the petcock? If not, a new petcock is in order. I've only replaced my petcock when the tank was out of the bike. I can't say if it's possisble on the bike or not. I know it looks awful tight at that point. Remember to work safely. You are dealing with gas residue and fumes. Both are a risk factor.

Some folks around here had figured out which days the GS's were getting their deliveries. Looked like Walmart on Black Friday in the mornings with people standing around outside the front door waiting for them to open. All to get the limit of (1) box of ammo (per caliber).

It just won't go away.

I think I have a left side for an '86. I'll check. I seemed tweaked a bit when I got that set so I went with another. Just shoved back a lil bit, hardly noticable.

My heart goes out to you tonight. I'm sorry for your Fathers situation. It's hard to know what to say at the end. Peace be with you all at this time.

LOL! You said it. And what GS's are asking for 22LR is insane, if they have any. Home defense: 12ga w/00 buck .45 w/Hollow points Slingshot and a box of rocks for when I run out of shells. Hope I got enough rocks.

We were just talking about that on this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=77263 Bottom of tank and petcock pickup filters sound like a good place to start on yours.

Brian, I'm going to say this. If the tank looks clean and very little debris with no major rust flaking in sight you're probably in better shape than you think. If you you want to make SURE you NEVER have a future problem with the tank the only way to assure that is to remove the tank and treat it with a sealing liner. I agree, it is a bit of work but for the long run, it's the only way not to worry about it. I used this product when I did my '84 tank, and several other types of tanks since. I feel, and some will feel differently, that it is the strongest and most reliable material to use. http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html Why? Because unlike many other sealers you do NOT have to remove every bit of rust in the tank for it to bond. It will actually form a stronger bond on a rusted surface. Just pull the tank, pressure wash inside at a car wash, a lil shake, rattle and roll with a handfull of nuts and bolts, power wash again, rinse with some alcohol and let it dry out. Mix the epoxy, seal off the tank openings and pour it in. Rotate tank repeatedly until all interior surfaces are covered. Let it cure for a couple days. You end up with a glass tank that feels like the inside of a Thermos bottle. I've opened mine up every spring to eyeball the tank since I did this. No sign of any change in condition. It's slick as a whistle in there. No sign of any failure of the sealer. It's pretty fool proof if instructions are followed. Mix ratio and temps are important. So there ya go. Two choices. Accept the condition of the tank as is, or go for the seal job. In this case you are probably fine from what you have said. I have never met you but from our exchanges and what I've read about your bikes, I know you want to have it right long term plan. So that leaves only the two opitions. There, my sealing rant is done. Don't forget to change your fuel filter either way. Mike

I'm sorry, I'm a bit confused by Peders reply. The sending unit is under the seat mounted on the top of the lower body of the tank. Two wires are plugged into it. You'll be looking right at it. It is mounted on a sheet metal plate with 4 screws. Remove the screws, unplug the two wires and lift the assembly off. Good sized hole there where you can see very well into the bottom of the tank. Visually inspect the pickup screens while your're in there. That was where all my problems started when I had my rust problem. Mine were broken off. There is a gasket on that mounting plate. I've had mine off three of four times and it reseals fine. Remember that sending unit mounts BELOW the fuel level when the tank is filled so make sure it's tightened down and not leaking when you done. The first time after lining my tank and filling it I kept smelling gas. Found that gasket seal was just weeping a bit. Snugged down those 4 screws a bit and that took care of it. Be careful, it's a gas tank and you will be dealing with fumes empty or not.

Some of the early ones had minor issues like rough trigger pull. What I've seen of the newer models they got that worked out and the overall quality is not all the bad. Owners I've met have no complaints on reliablity, and that is all that matters in my book. But it's a revolver. What's to jam? I think you would be happy with it. The thing is can you find .357 or even .38 ammo in your area? Been real hard to find around here.