Snaggletooth

Given the choice between two families, this one and your nephew, in this case, I'd have to go with the blood connecton. Maybe it's just me but that connection is one I'd want to work on.

Hey Dave, Should not be a problem with the Shindengen. Mine is mounted on the plastic inner fairing. I do have a ground wire to the frame but I installed it there more as retainer for some harness work rather than as a needed ground. When I have the fairing off to work on the bike I just hang the R/R from the frame by the wires and I get no change in the readings. You should be fine. The only ground really required is the - lead from the R/R to either the - battery post or the frame. Your choice. I like thebattery connection myself. I have the digital voltmeter right off the battey also so there is no doubt about the charging system. I understand your concerns. After all the frustrations of dealing with a burned out OEM stator, a failed OEM R/R, the distruction of an aftermarket R/R (totally my fault) and all the wire chasing I did in that process I was way overthinking the upgrade to the Shindengen. When I sat down and looked at all the potental problems i could bypass with a simple separate harness it just didn't make sense to patch it into the existiing wiring. Not one regret since and not one problem with it.

They the ones making this line of T shirts?

Nope. I've had the Buckeye Performance high output stator on the bike for several years now and there is no heat issue at all with that stator using the Shindengen R/R inside the fairing no matter what load I put on the system. The Mosfet type R/R does not build the kind of heat an OEM R/R does.

I use boats.net all the time. Never had a problem with them on anything. Are they associated with Partszilla? :confused24:

Sounds like ya done yourself proud today. Enjoy your test ride. Now about the new fork brace......... We're here to help.

Try here for the idle screw set. Very common. And cheap. 12R-14105-00-00 PILOT SCREW SET http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-12R-14105-00-00.html

Hey Tom, Just crossed my mind on the position you are looking for on your handlebars. There was somebody here a while back that actually swapped the risers from side to side to get a more extreme change in the control positions. I don't remember how it worked out for clearances but it's something to look at if you don't like the other adjustments. There is always a way around a problem.

Hi Squeeze. So the "jets" marked in blue, refered to as "bleed" jets and non removable and non replaceable if damaged then, correct. For future reference. Thanks Mike

Just this.

The oil level can be be set anywhere from 5 1/2" from the top of the tubes (with the fork fully collasped) to 7" from the top. It's all safe in that range. The Progressive instruction cover that pretty well. It's a matter of how you want the ride to feel. Make a "T" shaped gauge to set on the tops of the tubes and fill it up the level you chose. The recommended 13.5 oz. fork oil will take you pretty close to the 5 1/2" level with the Progressives. Toss the springs and the long metal spacers. As far as I can remember nobody ever wanted to put them back in.... ever! LOL! Hang on the the shaped washers from the old set up. One on each side to sit inside and on top of the new spring coils for the PVC spacers to sit on. Take care when cutting the PVC spacers so they are not sticking way out of the tops of the tubes. Too long and you will have problems getting the caps back in.

Yikes!! Kind of kills the joy of wearing my tin foil hat outside today.

It's a simple device. The bolt that retains the rotor has a hole through it. A shaped wire like heavy piano wire, fits through that hole loosely. The oil passes through the hole along the wire and as the motor spins the oil sprays onto the stator. Primitive, but it helps. The kit, if I remember right has a new bolt, the shaped wire and two thin metal disks that fit into the stator housing to contain the oil spray a bit. I found one years ago on eBay for $15.00. Turned out I didn't need it. The mod had already been done when I opened the cover. No way to know until you look.

Yep, you're addicted. And this only your first one right. You notice a lot of guys here use the word "Stable" a lot.

Wiring is quite simple to install the Shindegen. I'm looking for one of my threads on my install. I just built a new harness for the stator, R/R, battery and fuse as a separate system from all other wires. No change to the fuse block at all. Only the two wires + & - leads from the R/R need to connect to the battery posts (with a 30 amp mega fuse in line on the positive lead). And a spice from each stator lead. Pick a wire, any wire. Don't matter which one goes to what one. Mounted the R/R inside the fairing as the Mosfet don't need the air flow like an OEM. NOTE: You can forget about the five wires this way. The two reds, the two blacks and the brown. Cap them off and be done with it. Most aftermarkets R/R's don't use the brown wire anyway. The other 4 wires from the OEM harness are no longer doing anything as the old R/R was the only reason they were there anyway. Dead weight now. Just cap 'em and you're good.

Looks like you're up for a project. Certainly would be an improvement. The ones with the Hella Projectors are.

Now take a look at the tops of the risers where the controls mount onto them. You'll see a nut inside and there are two pinch bolts on each riser. Remove the nut, loosen the pinch and then you can slide the controls out to rotate them. Look at the connection point as there are small pins there that limit the rotation. They have to fit back in the groves to seat properly. Between the two adjustment points you should get them where you want them. Watch out for windscreen clearance and cable binding. You can smack it if you go too far. Mike

Did you try this number for the Pilot screw set. 12R-14105-00-00

Been down looking at my spare carbs. I have the larger jet with the screw head showing at the top. The other smaller jet is deeper seated into the body and I can not see that it is removable. No groove for a screwdriver nor any sign of threading. Our '84 & '91 appear to be the same construction but I have no info available on VMAX.

I'm digging here. I see the parts in the carb. I see them in the diagrams. I'm not sure I'm seeing the right thing or even under that name in the parts breakdown I have. I see the part# 14 3G2-14231-16-00 . JET, MAIN #80 (#80) in the throat as MAIN JET but I'm not seeing a Air Pilot #1 Jet in parts. Only in flow diagram.

Yep, the Air Pilot shows as part# 3G2-14231-34-00 (#170)

Ok, found the danged thing. Lens only: 7 3/8" Wide 5 3/8" High 4" Front of lens to rear of bulb mounting flange. (not the bulb plugs)

This one has been used by others. It's not a direct bolt-in but it will fit in the same area. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRG0/42S.oap?keyword=electric+fuel+pump&pt=N0515&ppt=C0128 I have one on the shelf as a standby in case of failure.

"Shotgun Cleaning" is using high pressure to blow out a port, jet, fuel circuit, whatever is clogged. The idle circuit is the tough one to clean. Sea Foam or other cleaners have little to no effect as fuel does not move through that circuit, only air. I'm not a fan of "Shotgunning" from the outside of the carb on this because if there is ANY amount ot debris inside that recess for the adjustment screw, it's headed for the worst place it can go. Into the hole. Best to try to blow it OUT of the body.

I did. And I'm still looking. I've been packing things up and what was in one spot is now over here, or over there or .... maybe there. I haven't given up yet.