Snaggletooth

Did you have the forks fully compressed when you set the oil level? I never have installed the springs before getting the level right with forks compressed THEN let the forks extend and insert the springs. And opps..... take another look at the directions. Collasped and springs removed. That would cause the overflow. Oil level is the distance from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil with the fork completely collapsed and the fork spring removed

Yep, it's in a good spot. Mounted between the coils on the mounting bracket. When I had to get mine out the first time the screws were Phillips head. Rusted, corroded and had plans to stay where they were. I ended up pulling the battery and air box, removed all the mounting screws for the braket and got it turned around to remove the whole plate. It's been a few years since I did that so there might be more. I don't remember if I had the carbs still on the bike that time. I had to remove the TCI screws with a chizel. Changed them to Allen heads up from the bottom for future ease of replacement. Most guys just move it to the top of the battery.

Well I turned off the computer and rebooted, adjusted my screen, changed the font and found another pair of glasses. Still says the same thing. You got a 2nd gen. Didn't expect that. But I can understand and from the pics...... ya done alright. Nice looking scoot. Congrats Brian!!! I'll get used to it. I'll even keep the razzing down.

I don't think that's right. I send and receive funds through PP quite a bit and I simply transfer my PP account funds directly to my bank account. No fee has ever been charged for that.

WD-40 was designed for more for water dispersion than lubrication. Works great for drying out a wet distributor cap but not so hot for moving parts. It's based on fish oil if I remember right. So it does not have the tacky quality that would attract and hold dirt in a filter. Too thin and not the traits needed for filter prep. Now ya need to clean a wet or dirty connection, there ya go.

Must have just passed ya in the hallway. Just left there double checking the #. The floats in my '84 were shot when I got it. Took me a while to figure that out. They were so soft on the edges you could barely touch them with a fingernail and they would cut right in. The bike had been stored for 9 years so they had some issues. They would float.... for a while.... then start soaking up gas and sinking. You can see the cuts in the pic. I had a spare set and treated them with airplane dope and they worked fine but went ahead and replaced them with new anyway. No problems since. New is nice. New is comforting.

Like I said on the floats if needed the '85 V-Max is the same float. 1FK-14985-00-00 is the new number for the 26H-14985-00-00 used on the Venture carbs. All I got was a run around about them no longer being available for the Venture. Not quite true. Just had to look somewhere else.

I don't have a list of part numbers but I'll say this. What I have not done yet that I should of have is the jet block gaskets, the rubber bungs in the bottom of the block and the decelerater (?) valves on each carb. (Sirius also) If you need or want new floats the early V-Max floats are the same. About $125.00 for a set of four new when I got mine. If your are interested in a used set or just 1 or 2 PM me. I have a couple sets on hand. One set has been treated with airplane dope to seal them. The fuel bowl 0-rings are good to replace. The needle and seat sets are a waste of money. Needles wear, seats not so much. If you find the proper needle only you're good to go. Don't worry about that net filter behind the needle seat. It's easy to clean out and a bunch of work to replace. If you're picky..... have the bodies cleaned by ultrasonic. (Sirius also) If you're budget minded , you can boil the bodies on the stove top to break loose the crud. Next best thing to ultrasonic cleaning for idle circuits. You have a grip on the Sirius diaphragms so you're looking good. I never bought a V-Max kit so I can't say what's right and what isn't.

I think you got lucky on that. The $79.99 + $12.50 price was from Martin on March 27th.

Once you get the old one out most the wiring should be pretty well out of the way. I pulled the heavier harness up above the middle gear housing and had to bend that metal harness clip on the stator side out and down to get room to remove the old slave. It's a bit of a puzzle but when you hit it it does slide right in and out, with a couple of turns and twists. Should have no need to force it. It does fit. Really! Wiring was the biggest problem getting it out of the way.

The disasters I've seen here have been natural, and minor in comparision to many others. Only blizzards and floods but I've seen the effects of days without power and available suppies. People go nuts. I've seen local grocery stores almost stripped of any food product within hours with the possibility of a severe snow storm coming in. We almost had a riot in one store when people were shopping for groceries and the power went off. And stayed off for several hours. People were trying to run from the building with carts of food. That was only caused by a traffic accident that knocked down a power pole. We had to lock down the building. People panic. All I'm saying is that being prepared well ahead of time is absolutely the best game plan. Trying to find soures at the time of a disaster is not going to work well. Even worse is a highly populated city. I'm a city kid with some woods smarts still left in me from my younger years. The thing I try to be prepared for these days is getting away from the cities with a vehicle that can travel off the main highways and roads and carry what I need. Not much more than that. The more you show, the more you become a target for those with nothing. I've had the discussion too many times with people about defending themselves and what they have. Some don't belive they will ever need to do that. I guess it's just me. I suppose I have trust issues. LOL!. I'll share what I have with others willing to do the same, but try to take what I have away and there will be a problem. Just worse case survial..... Shelter, water, a food sourse and a plan to defend that. All done..

If your talking about the Sirius ones..... I posted the link to Sirius for the diaphragms you need. Check it out. They list there for $99.00 but we get a discount through the club as you are a member. Our club price is $79.99 and $12.50 shipping to you for a total of $92.49 USD. This is only through a direct PayPal purchase! Not through the Sirius site to get this price! If you have a PayPal account set up it's easy to do. Let me know if you are interested and I'll walk you through the ordering process. I just installed these in my '84 and they make a major improvement. Starting, idle and response all improved. Waiting to see how much they increase the MPG.

Don't feel bad, That "horn button is the ground" thing had me going in circles when I installed my Fiams until Bongobob got me straightend out years back.

Thanks Bob.

Mine used to do that every once in while. Sometimes I could flip the key and it would work fine. I ended up having new keys made from the master code and that ended the problem completely. Every key worked on either side in every lock.

When I did the '84 I had to re-work the wires around a bit then set it back on top of the air box. Still tight but it fits.

"Green" cars have too many limitations ..........

Very nice! Looks good to me. I don't mind the HF trailer but that black shell is just........ lacking. Needs a bit of color. Your's stands out nicely now. The change you did on moving the box back is one I intend to do as soon and I can. Got the cooler rack about finished but weight will be and issue if I don't move the box. :clap2:

Belive me, one is never enough. I made four for myself and used all of them. PM sent.

If you want a bunch of options for handlebar mounts on 1st gen ya need to check these out. I think Bob might still have a set or two left. I like to call em Snagglestuds but Bob is the guy that made them. Bobs also are drilled and tapped for ram mounts. His are the ones with the rounded ends. Handy lil critters since we lack "Handlebars". Got my GPS, camera remote and cup holder front and center now.

Thanks. Ran it with a 10 tonight. Might try to go lighter and see how that goes. This set up is for the phone and camera charging only. Heavier ports for compressor and such are in the fairing. Mine is a bit bulkier but it gives me options for change. Got a switch box with room for controls for the trunk lights and fuses are inside.

Ya done good. That first $800.00 isn't going to seem like much if they stick around for a while for the gravy train. Good Lord those Rotts can eat!!!

Just curious. I just finished doing a dual plug in and USB port in my trunk today to charge the phone and cameras. What size fuse did you go with?

I know, I know...... As long as you're in there........... Do you know if your '83 still has the plastic impeller in the pump?

Don't blame you on that one. I've seen some of these with the color coding so far out of wack it makes no sense to what we would think would be right or even come close to the bikes wiring. Red and Black are usually hot and ground. Not a good practice to tie them together. Green is usually a ground. So a bit of a conflict in thinking there. Wish I could answer this one for ya. Hopefully someone has dealt with the same unit and has it figured out. And good luck finding that other green lead.