Snaggletooth

I don't but they do show up on fleaBay once in a while. Not to often sadly. Now I can't remember who it was at the moment but somebody here was making and selling both the left and right covers from SS. Nice looking stuff.

John, take a look at this. It was a factory issued mod for the two lines off the bottom of the airbox. The small drain line off the corner of the airbox was cut and attached with a "T" to the larger breather hose from the crankcase. Ended the drip drip from the drain line and eliminated the line running down the left side of the bike.

You can heat that crush washer up with a propane torch until it's red hot and let it cool off. Then dress it with some fine grit paper or a fine file. It will expand enough to use again and seal like a new one. If your in a bind for a new one this trick works quite well. Done it a lot of times on the union bolts washers on the brakes for road side fix it fast jobs.

I've never been a big fan of the WW batteries. Heard of and seen too many early failures. My buddy owns an auto shop and alot of what he replaces are WW. Draw test will be done today when I get over there for sure. The one dumb move I made yesterday was before hooking up the new battery I went though the car and made sure all the light switches were off and checked the doors to make sure they were all closed. If I'd left that alone I would have known right away if they had left a light on when the new battey went in.

Yeah, I'm not concerned with the miles at all after looking the car over and taking it out for a drive last night. It's been taken care of. I've got about 190K on my Lincoln and no serious concerns there. The first time I really looked at the car was when I went over yesterday to deal with the battery. First thought was there has to be some BS involved to trade that for the Olds. Yeah, I have some trust issues. But he's got three boys and they are looking forward to a project together. Plays in my favor to. Might help keep the boys from chasing my daughter. Shall see how this goes.

The folks that have this car have had it for about two years with no issues with the battery. They installed a brand new one, from Wally World, about 1/12 according to the tag on the battery. So a year and a half old and one of the cheap ones. They only drive this car maybe once a month as the dad drives his pickup for work. The car is a spare more or less. Like I said my daughter drove it for a few days before the 4th of July while she was working up in Norfork with no problems. Maybe the battery just hit the end of its life. I'm thinking they had left a light on and drained it down. They parked it on July 5th and haven't used it since so it had time to run down. I'm stuck on the idea the cables got crossed trying to jump it and caused the battery polarity to flip. But none the less I'm headed over later today to check the battery after sitting all night. If it's still showing a full charge and better than 95% I'll figure there is no heavy parasite drain. The owner of the car already contacted me this morning and says he will cover all parts costs for what it takes to get the car right for her to my satifaction. He'd rather have me do the work than taking it to a shop, unless it's really needed. Fair enough. Lil history on this deal. We have known this owner and his family for several years. Decent folks. Anybody else and I would have walked away and let him deal with the problem yesterday. My daughter has been driving a 1986 Olds Cutlass Supreme for several years and has racked up some pretty good miles, about 130K with her 60 mile a day commute to work and back. Car is showing its age and needs a lot more work. The dad......loves that car. He has talked about wanting to do a full restoration on it or one like it for quite a while. So he offered a straight up trade. The Cutlass for his spare car. A 1997 Infinity Q45 with 170K on it, but in outstanding condition. He'll take the Cutlass as is and make sure any problems on the Infinity are taken care of for her to my specs. Either he is totally nuts or really, really wants to restore the Cutlass. Either way it's an interesting trade. So hoping there are no gremlins in the Infinity today.

I've seen some strange things happen to batteries but never this one. Heard of it, but not experienced it... until today. My daughter found a car she wants. Was supposed to go by and pick it up today to be checked over. She drove the car for a coulple days last week and had no problems. Everthing looked good to her. But I got a call today that when she ariived the car wouldn't start. Dead. No lights, no radio no cranky. Sounds simple right. Dead battery. No biggie. By the time I got there her BF had showed to and had a charger on it. Getting no reading at all and deader than a door nail with even with the charger running. I hit it with the mulitmeter and got a 0 reading. Yep, dead. I was pulling the cables off and noticed the fusible link on the connection was blown. Now it makes sense. I figured the BF crossed the cables and shorted the fusible link. Grabbed another liink and as soon as I plugged it in it blew out, With a DEAD battery. Yeah right!! Took another meter reading and watching closely the meter needle was pulling completely to the left side way past dead. Not right, Ran it down to NAPA and had them run a load test. After three seperate tests with three different guys involved they annouced that it was indeed, NOT dead at all. The polarities had reversed. With all the opinions and observations onky one giy had ever seen it happen. Using the multimeter backwards got a reading of 5 volts. So new battery, new link, a complete inspection of cables and connetions I gently tapped the conncetion to the post and yea!! no spark, no blown link and it cranked right up and charged as it should, Now from this I can only assume from my experience that the battery had discharged, for whatever reason that IF the BF crossed the cables trying to jump the battery may have well flipped the polarity from the stronger current. So am I on track here or am I missing something going on a little more dramatic with the cars behavior? Everything appears to be fine now, No warning indicators, not faults and charging fine. I left it with the current owner for the night much to my daughters dismay. I'll see how things go tomorrow armed with a little more information. So what happened and what caused it?

HAPPY BIRTHDAY !!!!!

I got to say those are strange readings. The only one I liked was the 13.7 just below 2,000 RPM. That's not too bad. But dropping as revs increase and then 14+ below idle....... not right at all. I seen some crazy stuff with R/R failure but not like that. I'm still going to say the R/R is a problem. I'm no expert on the subject just my . I'm looking forward to the right answer myself.

If they were the OEM springs it's not going to make any difference at all. Pretty much junk from the day they were installed. Need to be replaced Progressives or Sonics. The Progressives are the two stage wind on them also. The thought is that the looser wind should go at the bottom to accept the first impact then compress into the tighter wind. If your springs look like this with the long spacer on top they are the OEM springs. Seriously consider doing the upgrade. Stops the forks from bottoming out and reduces dive while braking. Much improved handling. The Progressives will be as long as the OEM spring AND spacer combined with a heavier coil material.

My old job was 3 miles from my house and had to be there at 5:30 AM. If I left the house at 3:00 AM I could get there on time. Getting home was a problem. Upgraded my lighting so I didn't mind getting home after dark.

There are days.......... When some of those folks get on my nerves.

Hey Gary, Yeah it was. It was such a piece of junk I didn't even keep the link for it. Ran across it when I first found mine damaged. It was a single tube and only one size. Both pickups would have been the same height. Better than nothing IF it would have stood up . LOL. Wasn't worth the $5.00 to get it.

Johnny. I just sent you a PM in response to your question. There's your answer.

I went through that when the rust ripped mine to shreads. After resealing the tank with this product: http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html I replaced the petcock. I tried a kit to replace the screens but like Gary said, it isn't made in a way to do that. Having the RUN pickup plays to your advantage with the higher pickup level in case you get some bad fuel. It's worth it to just replace it IMHO

At this time no, they are not in stock. The one thing I like about ordering from SCI is that if an order is placed for an item that is out of stock they quickly refund that amount back to your PayPal account. They do not hold it until the product is available. Many suppiers would sit on it. SCI is has showed excellent CS communication when a problem comes up. So waiting until the product shows available is still the best bet. I've had orders in the past that came back into stock well ahead of the date posted on the web site. Hope these come in sooner also.

Just exchanged a couple e-mails with Mr. Martin at SCI. Just to have to keep an eye on the product listing on their site. http://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?make=2&model=&part=1&partno=sd1x4&search=search&x=44&y=4 But here is the update on the ordering process through PayPal to get the club price of $79.00. Open your PayPal account and select "Send Money". Enter the Sirius PayPal address: paypal@siriusconinc.com Enter the total amount of: $92.49 USD (that's the club price of $79.99 + $12.50 shipping. Current price confirmed by Mr. Martin on July 9th 2013. Mark transaction for "Goods". No fee will be charged as it is figured into the selling price. On the next page in the note box mark it as ATTN: Mr. Martin State your product "SD-1 X 4" for the Venturerider Club price and your club name. Then your full name and your complete mailing address. I got a comfirmation e-mail from their CS and they shipped next day. The only way to get our price is doing the PayPal directly. No way to get it going through the Sirius site. NOTE: The $12.50 shipping is UPS Ground with tracking which SCI prefers to use. They will mail them for $5.00 but you would need to adjust the total and state that request in the "Note" section on PayPal during payment.

I hate Engine warning lights!! Drive ya crazy. Both my Taurus and the Lincoln were always coming on. Both cars always ended up with the same thing. Some air flow sensor. My friend that owns the shop I go to just got into the habit of cleaning the sensor in the Lincoln about every time I'd roll in for a visit. If I wasn't on the bike he knew the light was on. Just laughs and tells me to stay off the gravel roads. Guess I'm too simple of a guy. Gimmie a light that says "LOOK HERE!" Wait, we used to have those. Engine Warning lights mean "What's in your wallet?"

Robert, Sorry to hear that. I remember that you lost several team members not all that long ago. My thoughts and prayers go out to all serving over there and to their friends and famlies. Thank you for your service and if I remember right you are about 60 days away from heading back this way. Stay safe friend and hope to see around this side again soon. Mike

OK, I'm gonna play the bad guy here and bring up the old "while you're in there" thing again. As long as you are doing the valve gaskets don't forget to order the donuts that go on the valve cover bolts. Lets see..... you'll need all 16 of them. Nobody wants to hear that but you might as well get it done this time. They run about $2.00 each. 2GH-1111G-00-00 RUBBER, MOUNT 1 . . . . . . . . . 16 When you go to reseal the new gaskets with the old donuts on the bolts they have already been compressed for a while. Not going to seal right. I know some of the guys have tried to tighten them down............ a little more, and run into trouble. They end up breaking the bolts off at the top of the head. These bolts are shoulder bolts. When they hit tight, that's all ya get. More than that they snap off. Save yourself some trouble down the road. I don't know if you picked up on this bit of info but but when ordering valve cover gaskets get the 2nd gen ones. Same gasket, but the 2nd gen ones have a bit of an extended lip on them around the edge. Makes install a lil simpler.

Boy your'e gonna get some arguements on that statement. TCI almost never goes? Stators can be had new for $200.00 to $300.00 range depending on the supplier. I guess I have to ask exactly what kind of problems are you having?

The DEKA number for your bike is the ETX20L. Probably got some faded off marking. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/motbat/20lbs.html Can't gripe about the DEKAs. Into my 5th season on this one. Cost to quality is outstanding.

The SCI ones fit the OEM slider without any modifications. Stretch the old one off and pop on the new one. The JBM ones the slider had to be modified by removing the rear plastic retaining ring on the slider. Once you do that there's no going back. Not hearing any "this one works better than the other". Just different ways of mounting them and dpends how far you want to get away from OEM issue. If I'd had broken or loose retainers on the sliders I would have gone with the JBM's. As my sliders were fine I stayed with the "close to factory" fit as possible.

I agree. From some of the new riders I'm seeing around here I have trouble believing the got a license in the first place. (or ever had one at all) Scary to watch. At least they are trying to correct a known problem. Points for that.

At those speeds and above you're not all that far off for MPG. These bikes were designed for the old 55 MPH limits. After that it's fill and fill again. Bikes cheaper to run on the two lanes no doubt about it.