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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    Hey Squeeze. Well, long story short. HA! Not easy for me. LOL! I have an '84 1200. I bought the bike after 9 years of storage. (good storage) The carbs were my biggest problem as the floats were sinking and the needles hanging up flooding the bike when parked over night. I have been told repeatedly that the floats were no longer available and were no longer made at all. So I bought a spare bank of carbs and stripped out the good parts. The floats from those carbs were dried and treated with a light coat of airplane dope. When I did the rebuild I swapped out the floats with the treated one. No more flooding and no more rich smell when running and the bike starts fine. However, I am not able to get the fuel bowl level up to specs. The floats are adjusted to the point where if I go any furture the float bodies will hit the inside of the casing. This is due to the weight of the airplane dope treatment I'm sure. I am to the point of going back and changing back to the old floats now that they have dried out to see if the level can be brought back up to specs. Now, with all my questions and reading every forum I can get on to it looks like the floats from the 34mm Mikunis off a V Max and the '86 and newer VRs will change out with my carbs. I'm sending an old float to RickH to match against one he has in stock for a V Max. From the photo I sent him he says it looks like it's a possiblity. New floats would end all my concerns. The bike runs well as is but is a bit slow to respond on the WOT with the low fuel level. I took her out yesterday for a 340 mile run double up with gear and she did great and averaged 39.52 mpg at about 65 mph most the time. Oh, I should mention that at one point I did run her out a bit on the speedo for a mile or two. She had no problem hitting 105 mph and had room to go after that. She's not starving for sure. So, what can you tell me on the subject? I'm all ears on this one. Thanks. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Ok/ Done this a few times. Side covers Radiator side panels / with reflectors. Lower vent panels and connector Windshield trim. Windshield. Mirrors. Head light cover panel. Lower cowl intake under headlight Front connector plate for halves under headlight. Right side dash / top plate RS panel and unplug CLASS Left side / use key to remove sound system and lift out LS remove dash panel. Disconnect turn signals, hazard light switch and speakers. Unbolt RS fairing half and remove. Same with LS fairing half. RS / inner panel / disconnect over flow lines from radiator reserve bottle. Don't forget to hook it back up before running the motor ok. Unbolt panel. LS / unbolt sound system amp and unplug it and ant. wire. Unbolt panel and remove. That should get you naked and open it up to get to everything. If I missed anything I'm sure you'll see it as you work. The first few times I screwed all the bolts and screws back in where I took them out of to keep track of them but now I just use sandwich bags for each set of bolts and fittings for each section. That way I can have each set of hardware available as I reassemble the thing without a lot of digging. The first time I tore her open I marked the wire connectors with colored electrcial tape so I wouldn't forget what went where. Yellow to yellow, blue to blue. Idiots safety tape. LOL! Watch your wires when putting it back together so nothing gets pulled loose or pinched. Don't forget the turn signal plugs and the hazard lights. Doh! OK, it was just once! Later Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    Yeppers. Shouldn't be a problem. Just be sitting down when the bidding goes nuts. The clean ones can bring some hefty bucks from what I saw when I was looking for one. LOL!
  4. Snaggletooth
    I bought a CD off eBay a while back from Zedder Ent. that is a cross reference program that allows you to search part numbers and then it lists all the years, makes and models that use that same part. If has been a huge help in finding the right parts when buying used odds and ends. I think it was less than $10.00
  5. Snaggletooth
    Hey mtman. Sounds like progress to me. Just remember that when you break down those carbs you do not need to split all the carbs for what you want to do. Remove the long side brackets (with the holes for the drain hoses) and disconnect the linkage rods for throttle and choke and you will be able separate the two sets of carbs to do most of what you need to do that way. Leave the top brackets alone and on each sync'd set of carbs and it will save you some time and headaches getting things lined back up later. If you decide to replace the net filters get with me later and I'll tell you what I can on that project and I have some new parts that may be useful if you go that route. God forbid. LOL! Take a good look at the floats while you have them out to. Mine turned out to be the main culpit on my carb problems. Mark them as which carbs they came from and hang then up to dry in the sun for a couple of days if you can afford the time. When the carbs go back together you will need to set the float level and we can walk you through that. Hang in there. You're moving forward. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Damn you're good mm482! Just what I needed. And on top of that these are local hometown boys for me. I just joined the web site to see if I can hook up with this guy. Looks like he may have the answer I'm after. Looks like another V-Max part that will work on a Venture. Thanks again.
  7. Snaggletooth
    Anybody have a picture of a float out of a V-Max or an '86 or newer VR? Working on something but need to know if I'm on the right track. Thanks Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Did mine today. Took all of 30 seconds once it was opened up on the bench. Worked like a charm.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Hey mtman. I don't know how far you have opened the old girl up but here's a way to get to no fuel to the bowl problem. If you have removed the air box and are able to see the tops of the carbs you will see what I'm talking about. On the top of each carb where the 90 degree angled fuel pipe goes in there is a plug in the top of the carb body. NO! don't try to take it out! Under the plug is a small net filter that is the last stop for crap before it enters the carb needle and seat. I'd would try to remove the rubber fuel line connectors and try to shoot in some carb cleaner then using a piece of extra fuel line pour in some Sea Foam and let her soak. I'm not a big fan of carb cleaner sprays as they are rather intense but diluting the spray with SF should be fine. Cleaning the net filter is best done from the inside of the carb by blowing it out with air through the seat but you have to pull the carbs and open them up to do that. Something that may be in your near future. As you are getting fuel from one or two carb bowls I do suspect the net filters my be clogged. If it comes down to that it is a bit of a project to remove the plugs and replace the filters. Been there, got the tee-shirt. Trying to clean the net filters is the best bet before a rebuild. Keep us posted. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    On the c/c problem, you said it went over on the right side. If it hit the brake lever you may have knocked the micro switch out of wack under the lever that cuts off the c/c when you hit the brakes. The switch and bushing are a big cause of the c/c not working right in a lot of cases. Something to check.
  11. Snaggletooth
    I need to ask this..... On a 1st Gen, '84, I rebuilt the carbs due to a problem with flooding. The issue was the floats were sinking on me. The bike had been stored for 9 years when I bought it. Know the floats were the problem and no longer available, I bought a used set of carbs and stripped out the floats and hung them out dry. When they were dried out I coated them with airplane dope, a light coat, to reseal them. When I did the rebuild I swapped out the floats and checked the fuel level. It was extremely low before and it did increase somewhat but does not come up to specs. I have bent all the tangs to the point where I have no room left before the floats hit the inside of the bowl body. I'm still about a 1/4 inch below where I want the fuel level to be. I figure the weight increase from the dope coating is the cause of this. Know the floats that came out of the carbs were culprit in the past problem, am I nuts to consider trying them again after hanging out to dry for a month or so? Any other ideas? One of my creative minded buds wants to sand down the float bodies to reduce the weight and seal again. He's recovering nicely from the lump on his forehead. Reducing the bouyant mass to reduce weight isn't the answer on this one I'm sure.
  12. Snaggletooth
    Oops! I missed that address in your post Eck. Thanks for the slap up side the head. LOL! Checked the site and looks like he can do the trick. Thanks Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    On this key note (pun intended) I have a question. I have one original factory key to my '84 and several later made ones. The original key opens everything and the others don't. Seeing as how my local Yammy dealers are twits IMHO, I don't do business with them. Seeing the age of the bike what are the odds of finding a dealer that can have keys made from the factory key with the code numbers on it?
  14. Snaggletooth
    My test for air flow through a Fram filter was aided by K&N (without their knowledge or consent I might add) at a local parts store. K&N had a display with a plexiglass box and a blower motor and a tube attached to the top with a ping pong ball inside. The top of the box had a hole cut in it to fit a K&N filter and a Fram filter. Of course the point they wanted to make was the increased air flow with the K&N filter. With the K&N filter in place the ball shot to the top of the tube showing unrestricted air flow. With the Fram in place the ball hovered towards the bottom. I went outside and pulled the stock filter out of my bike. It's about a month old. When I placed it over the hole the ball hovered at about the same place as it did with the new Fram filter. That told me the air flow restriction was similar on both the filters I using now and intend to use after the mod is finished to the air box. Good enough for me. Thanks to K&N for providing the test equipment to answer my questions.
  15. Snaggletooth
    Hey Squeeze. I gotta ask. My bike has done this since I bought it. The warmer it gets the higher the revs. I recently rebuilt the carbs and while it was down I replaced every vacumn line I could find, epoxied the seams of the chamber and really, really checked the manifolds as completely as I could. They are still soft and pliable and no hard spots at all. When I finished the rebuild the bike still did the same thing. I warmed her up and started to give her little sniffs of starting fluid around the manifolds with nothing resulting in rev increases. I've got the idle down so low now, below 900 rpm that I have to give her a goose now and then to keep her from stalling at a full stop. The idle is a little lumpy like a Jason mod. About a 300 rpm surge. You got any suggestions?
  16. Snaggletooth
    The black rubber lines that stick out of the brackets on each side of the carb assembly are the drain lines. Two to a side. Always wondered what those were huh? Take a look under the bracket to the right side of each lower carb body and you will see a screw head recessed into the bowl. Either extend the drain lines with a nipple and another piece of hose or simply hold a beer bottle (empty to avoid confusion later) over the end of the line and open the screw up 3 or 4 turns. Gas will drain out of the bowls into the bottle. Drain them and then with the SeaFoam added to the gas in the tank let the pump refill the carbs. Then let it sit over night. Do the same thing the next day. SeaFoam seems to work best if it can just sit and soak for a while. I did mine for 4 day before it would fire up. Don't worry about using too much as you really can't over do the SF. As for the brakes, are you getting any pressure to the pedal at all or is it just pumping with no resistance? If you have resistance, do the meter valve on the tree first, then the left front, then the rear. As they say, you may have a pretty clogged up system all the way through. All you can do it try to blow out all the crap and then bleed, bleed, and bleed some more to refill the system with fresh fluid. Rebuilding the master is a good idea at this point anyway. Keep us posted. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    Damn! $3,800 and three days left. If this puppy goes over 4k I'm listing my '84. A few more miles but a lot more chrome. Should go for $5,500 or so I'd think. LOL!
  18. Snaggletooth
    I've been seeing the "METHOD NOT IMPLEMENTED" a few times myself in the last few days along with long load times. About 2 minutes per screen change last night.
  19. Snaggletooth
    I have about 5,000 miles on my Avon Venoms and they do very well in the rain. Got caught last week about 25 miles from the house in one of the worst thunders storms I've ever riden in. That short trip removed any doubts I'd had about how they would perform on wet roads.
  20. Snaggletooth
    I use a "Bulldog" on mine. If they want it bad enough they are going to have to drag it or carry it and then the security surveillance tapes are getting sent to Americas Funniest Vidieos. It would be a hoot to watch a couple of boneheads trying to drag one of these things off.
  21. Snaggletooth
    Put the Avon Venoms on my '84 last summer and have about 4,000 mile on them. I'm more than pleased with them. Last night I got caught in a downpour for about 25 miles and they were excellent on the wet roads in heavy rain. At this point, I'd buy them again. Waiting to see the miles I get out of them.
  22. Snaggletooth
    eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230260390875&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=013 Just what you are looking for. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    My first questions would be did you set the coolant selector back to the proper position when you refilled the radiator? When you filled the coolant did you start and run the engine for a bit and refill again a couple of times? Did you check the coolant reserve bottle to make sure it was at the proper level after refilling? It sounds to me that you may not of had enough coolant to start with as you stated the temp gauge was buried at the bottom. It will only show a reading if the coolant reaches the sensor. If it don't you get nothing. If the system is low it will suck coolant out of the bottle to keep the radiator full. So it sounds like the radiator was low and it overheated and sucked the reserve dry. Now I'm not sure on this one but if the selecter valve was set to the wrong position it may have forced the hot coolant to the reserve without it getting circulated. And a reminder to never pour coolant into a hot radiator without the engine running. Let it cool down before adding.
  24. Snaggletooth
    I just replaced my plug wires and caps week. Hit the parts run and got the NGK caps from a local bike supply joint for less than $5.00 each and picked up the plug wire off the bulk roll at NAPA (7mm copper wire core) for about $8.00. I cut the wires to size and slipped them into sections of plastic shielding to protect them. A little dielectric grease and back on they went. Fired up fine. After all the plug wires on the bike were only from '84. That copper core wire is a workhorse. As far as coils, I haven't found a reason yet to replace one. I have three full sets all from '84 models and they all check out at specs. They are durable. I see a lot of listings for the 8mm wires and from what I've tried they are too thick. You would have to ream the hole on the coil cap, and trim the ends down to make them thin enough to seat properly.
  25. Snaggletooth
    The Yamaha Carb Cleaner is good stuff. Really cuts the varnish out like nuttin' else. Pouring it in the carbs through the air box won't do it. It needs to get to the fuel bowls. I drained my tank and poured enough into it and cranked her over and opened the drain lines until they cleared the old gas and let her sit for a day. Then drained the tank and bowls and ran 1/2 a can Sea Foam with a couple of gallons of fresh gas. It got her cleaned up enough to run decent. I run a 1/4 can of SF once a month just to keep things fresh. Oh, and take a look at your local Wall Mart. They started selling Sea Foam and Deep Creep a while back for less than $6.00 a can. I stocked up. NAPA was getting over $8.00 last time I bought it there.
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