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Everything posted by Snaggletooth
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If your friend is clutching it or shifting to neutral and braking only he is losing a huge part of his control in slowing down. In some states have a vehicle in neutral on the streets while moving is against the law. I'd be interested in hearing his theory also. Been riding most my life, plus stick shift cars and 13 years of OTR trucking and proper down shifting is a critical skill in that line of work. Now if your red lining it and drop a gear......well.....not good. But having the bike powered is the key to control on any motorcycle, shifting up or down.
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- carlventure
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I hear ya Condor. It got into the high 40's today after a week of below zero weather, snow, sleet and nasty cold wind chill. So I dropped the battery back in the bike and fired it up. Haven't got the pipes on her yet but she was sounding good. Then I started to chip away the 2 inch layer of ice from my garage to the street. Yeah boy that was a project. Made it within about 6 feet of the street and figured I'd take my chances. Ya know what? Avons suck on ice! The bike changes directions really really fast! So I got the main street and all the cars that are going by are white. A nice salty white with crusty trim. And spraying what tasted like ocean brine up behind them. Well I got the bike turned around and it gave me a reason to finish the ice removal project I started eailer. Got her rinsed off and wiped down and back under the cover. Maybe I should schedule my CT surgery soon. Keep me from making a fool out of myself. A ride would have been nice.
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Not a bad set up! Sounds like living the dream to me. A friend of mine bought a place years ago. A small house, a BIG barn and a load of good farm land. He leases out the land to a couple of farmers and redid the house into a studo/gallery where he does his photography. Now the barn was a work of art. He stripped it down, insulated it and resided it. He modifed the loft into his living space and it was done up nice. The ground floor was his indoor parking and shop. What more could a guy ask for?
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It hit -15 here in Omaha today. The first time in 13 years. And then the wind chill on top of that........I don't want to talk about it.
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Am I getting this right? Pilot says they few into a flock of geese?
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Carb rebuilding time?
Snaggletooth replied to a1bummer's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I mentioned the way to test for the gas leakage past the needles in the other post. All of mine had some vapor but the #3 cylinder was the most obvious. Here is a short video of what you might see if a needle is bad. -
Carb rebuilding time?
Snaggletooth replied to a1bummer's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
The floats are composite. They do hold up well for their age but they do get to a point where they absord gas over time. What I did was take out the old floats and hung them in the sun for about a week to let them dry out real well. I then gave them a coat of airplane dope to reseal them so they would no longer soak up the gas. That was about 5,000 miles ago. That did work, BUT, you have to apply ONLY one thin coat. Too much dope does add weight to the float and I had overdone mine a bit. I ended up having to bend the tang on the float that rides against the needle to the point where the float almost hits the inside of the carb body when I'm adjusting the float level to adjust the fuel level in the bowls. With mine adjusted as far is they will go without hitting the body I'm still a bit low on fuel level. I will be replacing the floats with new ones this spring just to make things right. As far as checking the fuel bowl level it's really very simple. The already have the start of it built into the bike. The 4 bowl black drain lines that stick out of the carb rack brackets.....2 on each side of the bike...go to them. Pick up a male to male splicer at an auto part store. I got a pack of 6 different sizes for like $5.00. You will need a short piece of clear fuel line the same size as the drain lines also. About 4 or five inches. Insert the splicer into the clear line and stick the other end of the splicer into one of the drain lines. Start the bike and let her idle for a minute or two. Shut it down and while holding the clear line up along side of the carb body open that drain screw and let the line fill with gas. You will notice there is a scribe line cast into the body of the carb that indicates the center line of the slider needles. Use that center line as your reference as to the fuel level. Make a note of the level on each carb as you do this on each one. If they are all the same or damn close you are probably ok. If one is way lower than the others the float may be stuck, sunk or a have a bad needle. Oh yeah. Make sure the bike is on the center stand and the carbs are as level as possible. If you have a low one, or two, you can pull the carbs and and adjust the tang on the float to raise the fuel level. Or you may see the problem when you open it. I packed my manual away for the winter but maybe somebody has one handy with the correct measurement for the level reading. It's a bit below the center line on the carbs but off hand I can't remember the numbers. Fuel flow it always critical. If the fuel filter is good, the pump is working properly and the fuel lines are open there is only one more place that can be a problem. Where the fuel enters the carb bodies there is a plug in the body that is inline with the needle seat. Under that plug is what is called net filter. It is the last filter before the gas enters the needle seat and into the bowl. Make real sure that filter is clear. Blow through the needle seat or through the feed line nipple and make sure it is open. You can apply a little Sea Foam or carb cleaner to help clean it out. If it is not allowing gas through it is a PITA to change. You would need to order the net filters, new plugs for the body, an o-ring I believe and then you have to drill into the plug, not all the way through it, then blind tap the hole and install a screw into the newly tapped hole. Pull out the plug and old filter and change the needle seat while you are at that point. Not a fun job. So with that said, at best, new needles can be installed in the old seat with no problems. The needle is what wears out not the seat. The problem is that the needles and seats are sold as a set at about $37.00 each if I remember right. If the floats are damaged there are floats out of the Vmaxs that will work just fine. Other wise I'd try the reseal with the airplane dope. Go lightly. As I said, when I did mine I changed the needles, treated the floats and cleaned everything and it made a world of difference. The only hitch is in setting the fuel level. There is no way to do it once and be right. You install the carbs, start the bike, check all four bowls and then remove the carbs, open them up again and adjust the low one, or high, then reinstall and try again. My take few trys. I need to rest. My fingers hurt. LOL! Mike -
Look at it this way......he got it on the 1st try! I'm impressed. :rotf:
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Rectifier location?
Snaggletooth replied to a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Some days it's just a PITA to ask a question here. As they said.....behind the left floorboard and I might mention INSIDE the frame. Hard to see but the fun begins when you go to replace it with an aftermarket unit. LOL! Not the same shape, you need to fab a mounting plate, make sure it clears everything, etc, etc.. Same mounting holes can be used to mount the new plate with different bolts but it kind of tight. -
Well at least he's able to use the passing lane ALL the time now. If the LEO's start to fall in behind you just pull into the nearest cemetary and shake their hands and thank them for the escort. I don't see any problem here.
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I got to admit, it's to die for. If you're going out might as well go in style. A job like that is worth coffin up the bucks for. You are quite the the project undertaker. Did you use rigor mortise joints? Ok, I'm done. Nice looking job!
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Yeppers! What they said! Used one in my truck for years and it did fine. I had one hooked up in my van for camping and it didn't quite cut it in the summer when it was hot out and would kill the battery overnight. I installed a isolator system with a second battery to run the cooler and the interior lights but it make no difference in the operation. It would keep things cool but not very well. On a bike battery, a death wish.
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Carb rebuilding time?
Snaggletooth replied to a1bummer's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hey Bill. You having any flooding problems or overflow from the vent tubes? Gas puddles under the bike? Engine revs running up suddenly and staying there? These are the problems I was having before I rebuilt the carbs on my '84. Turned out the biggest issue I had was a couple of the floats were sinking on me and the needles were badly worn. I had lousy mpg and trouble starting. I treated the floats with airplane dope, (a cheap patch but it worked with some side effects), and replaced the needles. And some intensive cleaning of every part I took apart. My mileage came up to about 41 mpg after the rebuild so I figure I had the fuel going to all the right places after I was done. The needles are easy to replace but if you plan on replacing the net filters in the top of the carb body get back to me and we will talk about that. LOL! PITA!!!! But first things first. Check the diaphragms and slides for sure. Check the the bowl fuel level before you remove them from the bike so you have a reference point after the rebuild. Pull the plugs and look for wetness from fuel fouling after sitting for a while. Do a sync on the carbs to make sure they are a properly set. The best test I have found for checking to see if the floats are bad or needles are sticking open is this. Warm the bike up to operating temp. If possible a 20 minute ride or a long idle time to warm her up. Keep her running and remove the airbox so you get a good view down the carb throats. Shut the bike down and turn off the lights and watch each throat with a flash light to see if you are getting and excessive amount of vapor from any of them. Do this on the center stand and again on the side stand. The heavy vapor would indicate the fuel is getting past the needles and running into the hot cylinders. Mine was so bad on two cylinders it looked like a Vicks vaporizor! This was causing the plugs to foul so badly they had to be removed and dried off to get the bike to start. Replacing the needles and resetting the floats to get the right fuel level in the bowls solved that problem. The plugs stayed dry and the bike starts like a champ after the rebuild. Hope that helps a little bit. Mike -
Well Jack, ya done good! The Macs arrived today. They look pretty good. At least my work bench looks faster. LOL! Got some projects going on under the bike so they will be the last thing to mount up. Actually worked out as pretty good timing. Looking forward to the new sound. Thanks for everything and you can stop doing this now..... Mike
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First Gen Parts for sale
Snaggletooth replied to motorbiketim's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hey Tim. Done deal! The seat arrived today. Excellent! Thanks. -
1st Gen. Thermostat
Snaggletooth replied to rez's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Bought one a couple of months ago. Told the counter guy I needed a NAPA 156 thermo and he dropped it in my hand 2 minutes later. They got 'em.- 21 replies
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The Carbtune has polished stainless steel rods inside glass sleeves. Very slick set up. No risk, no muss, no fuss. If you work on a bike with very low vac range you can invert the unit. I've been using mine since spring and have done about 20 syncs with it and I am more than pleased with it. I still have two mercury sticks that I used for years. The Carbtune is great for checking an unknown bike that may be way out of whack without sucking the mercury into the carbs but for dialing a set in, I can't see that one kind works better than the other. And you can take a Carbtune anywhere. Try that with a mercury stick!
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Oh hell! I figured it out! Tater has arrows!!!! Been a little skittish since my ex-wife gave me a t-shirt with a bullseye on the back. I'll just be over there by that tree. Never mind the apple. You NEVER saw the apple! Forget the damn APPLE! geesh.....what have I done?
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Count me in! I haven't had an offer like this since that darn phone company had me sign up for "Friends & Family" then dropped me because I didn't have any. I thought they were going to provide them! Guess I should have read the fine print. Hey.......wait.....where's the fine print on this offer? Hummm.....gotta be a catch here somewhere.
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I got to defend the Taurus. I had one I bought new in '93 and just sold it last year with 200,000+ miles on her. Still all orginal motor, tranny, suspension, steering and even the exhaust. Oil changes and tires were all that car seemed to need. I have a '95 Lincoln TC with 186,000 on it now and it will probably make 250,000 without breaking a sweat. Dey been bery bery good to me.
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Man that brings back memories! Back in the '70 we raced on Carter lake here in Nebraska. All we ran was dirt bikes with the tires spiked but that was more than enough of a rush to keep the blood from freezing up! It wasn't until years later that we went "What the hell were we thinking!" I'd do it again.
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- alternative
- boat.whistlingwhistling
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Bingo! Been wanting to add one of those to remind me where I need to go next.
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Well, We ALMOST Made it Home In One Piece!
Snaggletooth replied to skydoc_17's topic in Watering Hole
And don't forget to kiss your wife for bugging you to get the insurance! -
I just got that email today.