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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Yep.. hot starts were my worst problem in the beginning. Did the ground mod. Helped. Did the 4ga cables. Helped some more. Did a starter rebuild and used cheap brushes. Didn't help. Oops. Needed new starter. Earl set me up with a used 4 brush. Praise the Lord! End of cranking problems. Added the DEKA and been great ever since. Threw in Danos engage mod for the fun of it... I like knowing I'm going to start. Glad you got it in. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.
  2. Yeah buddy. Happy BD from me to. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.
  3. I feel for you. My daughter lives three miles off the highway on gravel roads. The danged gravel and mud for me in her drive way today. Been in crazy rain for about 30 miles. Got almost to her garage and stopped. Put my feet down and they just sank in and slid. I held it for a bit than it just gave way. I got off easy compared to your ride. But yeah. Gravel sucks.. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.
  4. I know, I know. You're just checking on pad fit. But.......if it even crossed your mind of changing the '84 over to MKII forks and Blue Dot calipers.........let me know. Just thinking ahead for ya.
  5. Ahhh drat! So close. From my Droid where I happen to be at the moment.
  6. I'm not seeing which bike you have but it is a 1st gen MKI or MKII I'd guess. First the compressor only functions when the key is in the ACC position and can only be adjusted from there. Hit ACC and give it a minute to cycle. Then try the AUTO buttons and see what it does. If you get an "E" code it's probably the control module. If you get nothing then check the fuse. Go form there.
  7. Any 2nd Gen starter should be 4 brush and bolt in fit. You don't have to change the cables but going to 4ga in a good way to go. From my Droid where I happen to be at the moment.
  8. Yep, on the side covers there are two ABS molded studs sticking out that insert into the rubber grommets on the frame to hold them in place. They do get broken off at times. Used to replace them with a plastic rod and epoxy. New way is drill out the mounting tab and install the ball stud. Must more durable. I found rubber grommets at the hardware store to replace the ones in the frame.
  9. Oh damn..... Washer on drive side is outside the swingarm. "nut" should have tipped me off. Everybody has trouble with the other side.
  10. Don't think you'll have any problem there. The only issue would be the memory from the radio as a parasitic drain when parked and that should be minor. The dash voltmeter is shall we say..... not dead accurate. I run a digital in my dash direct from battery so I can see excatly what I have at any time. Needless to say, it don't agree with the dash gauge. Saved my bacon a few times when problems popped up. Best test would be using a multimeter between battery posts before and after hooking the new radio up and see what the difference is.
  11. As far as that....... I can't say it's had any problem keeping up. But then again the only real extra draw is the two 35.w, 4.5" driving lights that are on whenever the bike is running. The reason I went as far as I did with changing my system was I using the bike 7 days a week running a service route doing a lot of stops each day. Sometimes as many as 20 or more starts. That's a lot of battery drain over a days time with short runs between each one. I had my side cover off a year ago and the Buckeye showed no sign being overheated. Still looked like new. Now Cougar has a similiar set up on his trike and I'm sure he's put his to the test. I know he kept rattling on about the microwave last year.
  12. You may be fighting a couple of up hill battles at this point. Reading through this thread may help you pinpoint your problem. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=80160 Usually start with the battery. Being charged and showing volts does not always indicate a full deep charge. A surface charge can be misleading. First use a voltmeter / multimeter with the motor running at above 2,000 RPM or better and check across the battery posts with meter. You should see about 13.5 to 14.5 volts there. At idle it may well drop to 12.6 or below. It's a start. I installed the HO stator from Buckeye Performance several years ago and happy with it. There are cheaper option but I like the quality of this one. If going into HO stator a Shindengen Mosfet R/R had proved to be a reliable combo. Then power up with the DEKA AGM battery and quit thinking "Will my bike start?" We not only offer information and advise........ we help you spend your money. Mike
  13. Send a PM to Dingy. He's your guy for the new setup. He provides the unit set up for you and outstanding support for it.
  14. I can't tell if the accident already happened..... or fixin to.
  15. Land Cruiser!!! yep boats.net has been a reliable source for a long time. Partzillas been catching some flack lately.
  16. Still available 41R-2179E-00-00 BAND Try boats.net http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1993/VENTURE%20ROYALE%20-%20XVZ1300DE/SIDE%20COVER/parts.html In a crunch you can get large O-rings from a hard ware store and hook it through the flange on the frame them pull it over the tab on the side cover.
  17. I run the smaller Tag A Long trailer. It's rated at 600 lbs I think. I left the overload spring on it. It's only a 2 spring set up. Your trailer is rated heavier so it's going to take some load to smooth it out. Mine running empty is a dancing fool. Once I get it loaded up to 200-250 lbs it smoothes out fine with the tires at 25 lbs.
  18. I went with the Buckeye Performance HO stator about 3 years or more ago. Flawless except the failure of the OEM R/R and then an aftermarket one (totally my fault on that one) then back to an OEM R/R again. About a year ago I changed to the Shindengen Mosfet R/R. Perfect combo in my book. Rock steady charge rate at 14.3. Been running the DEKA AGM about 5 years during all this. Always have power on hand.
  19. More than likely you'd be fine. It's an odds thing. Like buying used parts off the net. If you know any history on the donor, like it was running when you go it and didn't pee in the garage it's a good sign. I can't beat the idea down as I took a chance when I did mine. I'd read all the comments and the problems guys had with rebuilds. I was ready to try doing the rebuild when one of our memebers posted he was parting out his motor and had a pump that had been rebuilt about a year before. There was the history I look for so I grabbed it for about the same price as the parts I needed for the rebuild. He did a good job. It's still on the bike and bone dry.
  20. yep, that seemed to be the popular choice a while back. That name kept coming up.
  21. Changing out the old water pump for a brand new one is no big deal. Few bolts, new gasket, couple of 0-rings and you're good to go. Don;t forget to inspect that plastic "L" for dings and cracks. Now..... .rebuilding the old water pump can be frustrating. The mechanical seal is a trick to get seated properly and a few have had poor luck with that. If your old pump had a plastic impeller on it that should be upgraded to a new metal one. ( a brand new one comes with that.)
  22. Thank goodness I'm not the only one. I sent out an e-mail the other day where I missed the "G" and hit the "T". Wish I would have included "Warmest" in there. Somehow I don't expect to hear back from that party.
  23. Whew!! Almost didn't make it. Ok, Ok I'm late. HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!! Any cake left?
  24. I was hoping to see some feedback from the guys that have the floorboards on their bikes. They do allow you room to slide your foot forward a bit. Moving around room always helps. Just wasn't for me. But it's only Sunday night. Buy a bike..... they will come. You're going to see three common things done for rider comfort on these bikes. #1 Backrest #2 Seat modifcations. We even have a member here to do it. Great results. You see references to "Butt Butler", that's the guy. #3 Highway pegs. Backrest is a huge improvement. Used to feel those day trips pretty hard. With the backrest, 300, 400 mile days are not painfull anymore. Rick Butler (club name) does the seat mods and does it well. Caters mostly to the "I need to reach the ground" guys but he may know what to do for you. I cheated a bit. I use a 3/4 shorn lambskin seat cover on mine. It's thick and raises me up a bit not to mention takes off the pressure points. Highway pegs, yep, big help when mounted on the engine crash bars. I used a low end set (about $30.00) and clamped them on so they tipped in and up a bit. Good place to stretch out for a rest. I suggested the Long Horns, yep, pricey they are, as they are about the most versitaly ones out there. I had some grumbles about comfort when I got mine in '07. Put over 30K miles on it since then. Couple improvements, few adjustments, found the sweet spot. I'm over in the Ralston area for the time being. Soon to change. But I'm over in the Benson area all the time. On Maple couple times a week. Take a look at my profile albums. Bike may look familiar. I'm not the only one around the area. The others are like squirrels. Now you see them, now you don't. Good luck catching one. Don't give up on the old girl yet. There is hope. Post a pic of the bike if you can. I'll know what I'm looking for. I'm sure we will cross paths soon. Besides, these guys start barking if they don't see pics. You have noticed some of these guys are nuts right? Mike
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