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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    You either have a needle valve sticking or a float sinking due to saturation. Most likely a stuck needle. You can try tapping on the float bowl to loosen the needle to knock any debris loose but that may or may not work. As you use Sea Foam and hopefully Stabil or such for winter storage it should not be too badly gummed up. To repair you will have to pull the complete carb bank off the bike. You can seperate the two halves of the bank to get to the problem carb. Look at the carb bank brackets and you will see how that comes apart. This method will keep most of the sync settings intact for the carbs. If you seperate all four carbs you will need to bench set the sync linkages to get close to where you need to be before reinstalling them. With the halves seperated you will be able to open and inspect all the bowls without messing with anything else. It's a bit of work to get them out and they go back in much easier. Not that scary of a job really if you are handy with a wrench.
  2. Snaggletooth
    And you were wondering about the wiring. I could have used a much thinner gauge of wire but that is hindsight at this point. It would have made concealing it much easier and you don't need 18 gauge for the draw on the LED's. I ran the wires down the inside of the outer section and attached them with air conditioning tape. It sticks well and moisture don't affect it. I used it when I installed the front bumper running light on the inside of the fender to secure the wires and that was two years ago and it is still hanging tight. At the bottom I cut a small hole in the plastic pan and ran the wires through that and a section of plastic shielding to keep them from getting crushed and then up the back of the box and out a small hole to a quik disconnet on the back of the bag. The tool box liner is just a template for a section of 1/8 inch hard rubber matting and then the trunk liner will cover that. I don't have the skills to completely cover the inside of the bags with trunk liner but I'm going to try to to do most of the larger flat areas. It should cover most the tape holding the wires in place. Not perfect......but a good improvement. The PO just had wires draped inside the box and that was a mess. I'm looking to set these up on a seperate circuit so I can switch them on without the key turned on so I can use them as parking lights without putting a lot of drain on the battery. Comments or advice is welcome.
  3. Snaggletooth
    Mike. Here are the pics of the LED's I installed on the radiator side panels. (and a fuzzy pic of the "square hole because of the massive power plug on these things.)
  4. Snaggletooth
    There ya go! Ya gotta a plan. Like I said when I first joined this site. I'm not rebuilding an old bike.......I'm building a new one. Have fun.
  5. Snaggletooth
    Yeppers..........fill the master and flush all the lines until you get clear fliud from all of them. The old stuff can be dark and dirty looking or just milkly looking from mositure. If you get adventerous and pull the master off the bike and open it up you might see a lot of grunge. And you know to take it easy on the filler bolt on the master. A little sweet talk should keep everything in one piece. A few quys have split the masters wide open when they gave it a good shot to loosen the bolt. I like a 3/8 hand impact for stuff like that. A couple of taps to the clockwise, and a couple of smacks to the counter clockwise. And you do realize what you have started right? First the bleeding of the brakes, then the rebuild of the calipers, then the replacing pads, then on to the braided SS brake and clutch lines, and then just when you are almost where you want to be you will start thinging about changing out the forks, rotors and calipers from a late model do you can REALLY stop better. Oh have ya done the Progressive fork springs yet? Just kidding. Having an old bike is not addictive at all.
  6. Snaggletooth
    What's so funny Mike? You been playing with a round pegs again? I bought the lights last summer and never got around to installing them. I tossed the packages and put them in my storage trays for later work so I'll have to cruise through Wallys to check on the brand and part number. I remember stopping in during the winter and was going to pick up a few more but they were out of the chrome base ones. Only had the black base ones left. Hope you can find some. My first thought when I looked at the JC ones was what are they made out of? Geesh! $83.00 bucks? But when you look at it as my lights have 3 LED's and the JC ones have 15 each and the $83.00 is for a pair...well pretty close. But in eyes the ones I have are more than needed. I mean they really stand out even in the daylight. They do catch your eye and that was my whole point. So I'm happy with that. I'll be out in the garage tomorrow and I'll take a couple pics of the ones on the radiator side panels for you. If you're good I'll even toss in a pic of the square hole.
  7. Snaggletooth
    Ok...here we go. I got really good at this one. LOL! Make sure rear master res. is full. The 1st point of interest is the "meter valve". That is mounted just behind the right side on the frame behind the steering head. Follow the brake line and your fingers will find it. Tight with the fairing on but can be done. Some had a bleeder on them, some not. If not just wrap a rag around it and crack the brake line when the pedal pumped up. Tighten it before releasing the pedal just like a bleeder. Repeat as needed. Now go the the left front caliper and repeat the bleed process. Pump, bleed, pump, bleed until clear fluid and no bubbles. Now follow that line from the caliper to the anti-dive valve on the fork. Repeat process on that again. (The anti dive valve actually transfers pressure to the forks. As you apply pressure to the brakes the pressure transfers through the brake fluid pressure through the valve to become pressure to the fork oil, causing the fork tube to extend slightly reducing bottoming out or dive.) Ok now to the rear caliper. Repeat the bleed process there. Don't forget to keep an eye on the master fluild level through all this. And DO NOT top off the master. It needs room for fluid to return to it through back pressure so leave some room. I fill mine with a ...... DO NOT LAUGH...... turkey injector. One with the big needle. Yep! It works good. Fill the master and then suck a little out. If the master is over filled it can cause the brakes to drag heating up the rotors and cause a lock up until they cool off. So there ya got it. (1st) highest point in the system. (2nd) farthest points in the system. (3rd) closest point in the system. Now.....be warned. It might take a while. Some have found it useful to let the bike sit over night to let the bubbles in the lines rise to the highest point (meter valve) before bleeding. And when your done bleeding.....check the free play on your pedal adjustment. Keep that fluid off the plastic for sure. Not good.
  8. Snaggletooth
    aux light switches power off
    Great minds think alike! I use the same color coded rocker switches you have for my extra lights but I mounted them in the right hand dash panel ( the one just showing on the right edge of this pic). I am mounting my digital volt meter there now and looking for a new mounting spot for the swicthes. I'm going to check out that location on the left side to see if that will work. The right side is kind of awkward while riding.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Stud had a good start but there is a little more to it. I had to loosen the right hand header pipe a bit to get some wiggle room to pull the starter out along with removing the thermostat housing cover to have room to slide the stater back from it's mounting position. I replaced the brushes on mine and added a second jumper wire to the plate for better contact. A good cleaning and lube along with the 4 ga. wires and all my starting power problems were gone. Due to the location of the starter it's a PITA to do but it's worth the effort in the end result. And hang onto that piece of rope. You can use it to tow the 2nd gens so they can keep up.
  10. Snaggletooth
    I just want to mention that before ya'll run off to Wally World that you will have to be drilling some holes and cutting about a 3/4 inch square hole in that flat spot on the bag to make room for the power plug to attach to the back of the light. I'll post some more pics of the other bag as I put it together so you can see what in involved making the lights mount up.
  11. Snaggletooth
    Hey Barend. I was hoping you weren't planning on finding cracks. Ok, I give! I'm not done yet but I got the lights mounted and started the wiring. The lights are from good ole Wally World. $6.97 each. 3 element LED's. Plastic chrome base that fits the flat reflector surface on the bag well. I mounted amber ones on the radiator side panels but had to Dremmel a little off the sides of the base for a good fit. Using 2 wire quik disconnects on the backs of the bags for quick removal. I'll post more pics of the wiring and liners as I get closer to finishing up. The PO had wires just draped inside the bags. PITA! So these will be secured, protected and hidden as much as possible.
  12. Snaggletooth
    Ok, I'm on a roll now. I been putting it off all winter and now the bike is close to being ready to ride and I am finding more things to mess with. I had my saddlebags and trunk down in my basement shop cleaning them up and installing new LED marker lights where the reflectors were. A little wiring, making bags liners for the bottom, just killing time. Now I got the polishing compound and the wax flying and I notice there are a few minor, very minor cracks in the bottom of the bags and at the back where the mounting studs are. If I press around them they show up pretty good when I put pressure around them other wise they are not much more than hair line. No biggie, I'll just run a bead of epoxy on the inside and tie them back together. Now I never noticed this before so maybe I'm not paying enough attention but when I opened the bags to look at the cracks from the inside they aren't there. Before I strip down the bag shells and remove the aluminum edging are these shells laminated or what? They don't appear to be two layers but cracked on one side and not the other? Not possible. There is no damage to the bags, just a few hairline cracks. I'd prefer not to make repairs to the outside until the day comes that I decide to do what minor body work needs to be done and do a new paint job. Stress cracks make me crazy.
  13. Snaggletooth
    LOL! Nope! No whine anyway on my '84. I think...... Couldn't hear the bike running either until I installed the Mac's on her. For a while I thought I was going to have to change to a HD so I'd know the bike was running.
  14. Snaggletooth
    I suffered a "sudden hearing loss" several years back. Went to bed with normal hearing and woke up pretty much deaf. Lost about 75% over night. With years of noise expouser I always thought it would lose a little at a time over the years but nope, BAM! It's gone. I try to protect what I have left by avoiding high nosie levels and use ear plugs on the bike most of the time. I use shooters gel type plug that reduces most noise and they have a valve that will close and stop a sudden extreme noise. Good for firing a gun and loud horns. I might be the only one around that don't flinch when an air horn goes off. LOL! The few times I have been stopped by LEO's for helmet checks or routine stops they just stare at me as I give the the "hold on" sign, pull off my helmet, remove the ear plugs and put in my hearing aides. I don't know how many times I've been asked "Can you hear anything with the ear plugs in?" Hell No! Can't hear a thing without them either! LOL! Keeps ya on your toes I wanna tell ya. I use the term "Silent Running" a lot. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    I keep seeing the Kuryakyn Master Cylinder Switch panels. This would solve all my switch problem at one stroke. I have two switches installed in my right hand dash cover as of now but they are a bit awkward in that position. I want to mount my digital volt meter in the dash where the switches are now and find a way to mount a switch panel on the left side handbar. I would like to have 3 switches or even a 4th one. They don't seem to have anything that's bolt on for a 1st Gen, Doh!, no surprise there but I was hoping that someone here has made a mod for something like this. Any suggestions? Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    Ok.....making progress. I got the chin and it's in good shape. Even has the rubber grommets intact. I got my MKII bars lined up. Now, looking at the tabs and chin I'm going to ask what was the original hardware for bolts? Was it a shoulder type bolt? Or just a bolt with washers on each side of the grommets? No clue on my end. Never seen one close up. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    With that said I'd throw my vote for the polished aluminum. Don't get me wrong....I'm addicted to chrome as much as the next guy. But my thought is that the grill is in a highly exposed area to road grit and gravel. Even with a front mud flap there is going to be some unavoidable damage. Me, I'd rather pull off an aluminum one and repolish it than watch the chrome being blasted off.
  18. Snaggletooth
    I was just getting ready to mention that myself. SteveW is a member here and makes a really nice grill for the RSV. http://www.wagnercustomproducts.com/ Check it out. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Glad you rode that one out Vic. Could have been a lot worse. But ya gotta watch what ya say on here ya know. You mention red meat and CHP's in the same post some of these guys are saddling up. LOL! Where's the closest DQ? Ride Safe Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Well the Deka ETX18L AGM battery arrived today from bohannonbattery. . Nicely made, not shoddy looking at all. Good heavy casing on it. Showed 12.88 volts right out of the box. It's 33 degrees here and I haven't started the bike in weeks so I dropped it in and hit the button and she fired right up. When I tried to start it before with the 11 month old lead/acid that had been on the tender for a week it still needed a jump. I think this will be a good change for the bike. We shall see how it goes over the summer. But for the $82.95 shipping included.....it's the most inexpensive battery I've bought. Now off to Rat Shack to find some resistors. Mod time. And thanks to Josh at Bohannonbattery for your information and comments. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    I love a high gloss shine! Looks great.
  22. Snaggletooth
    I was so happy yesterday to see the first signs of spring........street sweepers out enmass removing the excesses of gravel, sand and winter debris from the highways and streets. That is always my signal to "Gentleman....start your engines!" So this morning I wake up and everything is white again. Geesh. They say up to 5" by Monday night. Now to be followed by more snow plows, gravel and salt trucks. And then the sweepers again. Good Lord.........I'm stuck in "GroundHog".
  23. Snaggletooth
    Well there ya go Squidley. Carbs are such a simple thing and they go and screw it up by putting parts in them like needles, floats, net filters, enrichment valves, cutoff valves, jets and all the other junk. If only someone made something that just shot in the gas as needed without all the crap. Oh yeah........that's called EFI! Glad ya got her fixed up.
  24. Snaggletooth
    Hey Mike....ya got a PM. Yeah....I looked for one of the chrome chins for two years. All could find was the semi rusted and damaged ones for a semi unreasonable price or a really rusted one for a not even reasonable price. LOL! I've seen a lot of MKII chins and most of them looked pretty bad. Bad cracks, pieces missing, no vent screens, etc. So I ended up jumping a little ahead of the game on this one hoping I could make it work. It will. Just need to make some adjustments. And Mike, everytime you post a pic of your bike I get all misty. A sweet looking ride for sure. Nice job caring for it. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Bob. That gives me an idea of what I'll be working for then. I talked to a rider today that thinks he might have a set of usable bars from an '87. He's gonna take a look and let me know. If not, it's fab time or watch ebay for another couple of years. LOL! And thanks for your time and trouble for sure. I appreciate it. Mike
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