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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    Not a paint kind of answer but there was a thread around here a while back on a leather lid bra for the side tanks. Looked real nice and never scratch another one again. Here is one link. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33645&highlight=bras And another http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29378&highlight=bras
  2. Snaggletooth
    Hi Wizard. The chin.....what a deal I got. LOL! Came home one day and saw the chin on eBay with a few minutes to go. Same color as my bike and in one piece. So I snipered it. About $40. Then it hit me that I didn't know if it would work on my bike. It was claimed to be off an '86 I think. So I asked a few questions here and found that I need to change out the front crash bars from a MKII with the tabs for the chin mounts . Back to eBay for another two weeks. Found a set that was not too bad but not perfect and took them for another $37. Then the mounting hardware.....No bolts or spacers were to be had. Off to the hardware store and found some tube style spacers and flange head bolts. Ground the spacers down so they were just long enough to slide through the rubber gromments in the chin and the bolt would tighten against the spacer and not totally compress the grommet. Now that I know it fits and works I will change out the flange heads for some chrome panhead screws to go with the chrome washers for a smoother look. I'm looking at making some short extensions for the tabs on the crash bars to move the chin upward a bit and close that gap between it and the cross piece to about a 1/4 inch. All I started out to do was find a way to protect the spin-on oil filter adaptor I installed. It just kept snowballing as it went along. But I like the look of the newer chin over the metal ones from the '83 and '84s. So it worked out well in the end.
  3. Snaggletooth
    Howdy Mike. I used air conditioning tape, the metal stuff to keep the wires in place and covered the wires at the bottom with harness shielding to keep them for getting crushed. Once I get the trunk liner in it shouldn't look to bad, it not a little lumpy. Better than raw ABS. I used two wire quick connects for a trailer to make the connection. 20 ga wire and it tied to the front of the chrome rack under the rear trunk. I left about 3 or 4 inches outside the back of the tank and it is just long enough to slide the side tanks back and unhook it. The wire is well concealed with the lamb skin cover but barely shows without it.
  4. Snaggletooth
    Hey Joe. Yeppers it came out ok. When I took the pics it was my first ride out after all the work. Had some things that weren't right and found that I had crossed the #3 and #4 coils. She would run but sluggish and popping like crazy. Got that straightened out this morning and spent the day riding. I even spent a while in a downpour so I know the electrics are buttoned up nice and water tight. And the MAC's sound GREAT!!! Nice sound to them. Just glad I took all the pics before I ran in the rain. Not up to another clean up right now. Later Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    I love worms........I open a can every chance I get.
  6. Snaggletooth
    Ah shucks Ladyrider......twern't nuttin. But thank you much for the kind words. And I knew that would get Yammer going. LOL! Bring it on big boy! Just to be fair I'll put a green light on the back of mine so you know when to start.
  7. Snaggletooth
    See.....there ya go. It's things like this. Squidley made the driving light mounts for the bike. Bongobob made my bike horny for cats. Thanks guys. And Bongo....the plastic is coming off again. I think I crossed up the coil wires on #3 & #4. Sound familiar? Yammer Dan.......I LOVE blue. Blue is my favorite color. I can see blue in my rear view mirror all the time. (poke) Someday I might make this one blue but it won't be a rattle can job. But for what I paid for this bike, I LOVE gold. LOL? kenw......It's a DIY switch panel I came up with. Blue is the driving lights, red is the bumper and fender lights and the green is the LED markers that replaced the reflectors and the long center LED on the rear bumper. The LED markers are on an independent circuit so I can turn them on without keying the bike on so I can use them as parking lights without putting much drain on the battery. This is the write up I did on it in the poor mans section. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34990
  8. Snaggletooth
    Ok....I've been around here for a couple of years now. Been reading and asking questions and talking to a lot of you folks by way of these forums. When I trailered my '84 home she didn't run and was in need of some TLC and this site helped me provide that for the bike. Information and an odd part here and there has come to me when I needed it. Some of you have gone way out of your way to provide items for the members in group buys. Thank you for that. Thanks to everybody that has offered advice and information on my projects. You are the reason this club is so different from others. This is a family. And Freebird.....you do one hell of a job keeping all this in running order. So the first pic is when I first finished the bike after bringing her home and got her cleaned up and running. I thought it turned out pretty well. Ahhh... but the second pic is of the bike today. I finally rolled her out of the garage after a long winter and spring of reworking the bike. Again. LOL! So it was the first ride of the year for me and I know how much ya'll love pics. So here are some shots of the changes that I have made and the things that have been added or upgraded. It's been a learning experience for sure. From RickH's upgrade stator and SS lines and Condors "Battle of the MAC" exhaust and CondorBrace to odd eBay finds to items that were DIY stuff. Thanks again to all for helping me pull all this together. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    A dealer here has had an '06 sitting on their floor since they got it. Asking $17,995 bone stock. No test rides allowed and nobody is interested. After all this time you think they would deal on the price to move the thing. I'd love to know how it rides out.
  10. Snaggletooth
    I'll give ya credit Bob. You are dedicated. I was whining the whole time I was building the harness for my bumper and fender, LED marker and driving lights. I had nothing to crab about. Hang in there. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Hey SilvrT, I just got done with the wiring for the switch. Cut out all the old stuff the PO did and started over. Built a complete harness for the bumper and fender lights, the LED marker lights and the driving lights all run from the switch panel. Did it right and and plan on never ever doing it again! LOL! What a PITA. I'm not a huge fan of doing electrical work in any form. Just call me Sparky! But it works like I planned on and it didn't break the billfold so I'm happy with the project. Later Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    Got mine from California Sport Touring. http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc? Just type in Morgan Carbtune in the search and it will take ya right to the listing. Took a couple of weeks as they were out of stock at the time. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Anybody notice the number on the CDI? That's the wrong one for an '83. Should start with 26H for that model. '83 was different from all the other years. If it was any good it would start and run but the boost settings are different. true4gm......I sent you a PM.
  14. Snaggletooth
    Hey Randya! Good luck and heal quick friend. I know it will be a huge improvement for ya. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Carl! You da man! Went back out and tried it. Several times. No luck, not even a spit. Pulled the union out couldn't even see a drop inside. Shot some fluid in and gave a few more tries. It hit on the third one. Bled her out and then I thought the lever had stuck. Man what a change in the feel of the lever with the SS lines! These SS puppies should pull the old girl to a screaming halt in no time. I will have to go and find the scumball that sliced my brake lines and thank him peronally for making me spend the money to make the change. Maybe he will give me a rebate when I get my hands on him. But thanks. One less headache to wake up to in the morning. Been on vacation this week and started Saturday night with piles of cleaned, rebuilt, new, NOS, painted, polished, and upgrade parts to put back together into a motorcycle. Been at it for 12 hours a day since Sunday. (probably why I couldn't figure this problem out) Tomorrow the plastic goes back on and a test ride is in order. But I'm going to hit the rack for a while and start fresh in the morning. Thanks again. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    Hey Carl. That's why I wear flip flops in when I'm working on the bike. LOL! You should see me bleeding the the left front caliper. It's like a weird game of Twister. I'll give that a shot. I had the union broke up a couple of times pumping the lever but I always released it before I tightened it back up. Back to the garage. I'm so close to riding again. It's the simple stuff that kills ya everytime. Damn bubbles! Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    Yeppers! That is where my head was at. I have an '84 so no charcoal on mine either. Sorry to be of no help at all.
  18. Snaggletooth
    Ok, here's the deal. The last thing I had to do today before I buttoned the bike back up was swap out the two front brake lines with the new braided SS one. So I hit the hard one first. The left front caliper from the metering valve on the steering head. Not as bad as I expected. Used an injector to fill the lines with fluid and bled it out from the top then the caliper. Slick. Done this a few times before so I got the linked system down to a science. Now the easy one. Of course this is where I get in trouble. Front brake master to the right front caliper. I ran the line down through and disconnected the lines from the caliper and hooked up the new SS line. I then cracked up the union on the master and quickly changed the lines. About 30 second to do it. Filled the res with fluid and then using the injector as a vacumn on the bleeder I pulled fluid down though the line. Filled the res again and discover I have no pressure on the brake lever. Went back to the bleeder and used pressure to back fill the system from the bottom. The res level increased but still no pressure on the lever. This master was rebuilt last year and has been working fine. I drove it into the garage this morning. Some how I lost pressure in the few seconds that I had the upper fitting off. How do I get this master to reprime without tearing it apart? Any ideas?
  19. Snaggletooth
    Hi Shawn. I hope somebody else jumps in on this as you lost me on the charcoal canister. Are you talking about the canister on the CLASS suspension pump? I ask that because you mentioned that you had an '83 that didn't have one so I thought maybe the '83 was a standard. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Ok, the last thing I have to do on my wiring is find the wire from the factory horn buttom so I can locate it to use it as a trip for the relay on my new LOUD horns. I already removed my old horns and built a new harness for the new ones but that may have killed the old circuit. When I am probing the wires in the handlebar harness I'm not finding a hot one when I push the horn buttom. And yes....the key is on. Thought I might ask before I have to tear down the switch control to see what it is.
  21. Snaggletooth
    A very nice touch I might say! And they just showed up in your mailbox? I gotta go. Need to check my mail.
  22. Snaggletooth
    Oh! She's good! You know how hard it is to aim a lawn mower?
  23. Snaggletooth
    Just curious........what kind of speakers did you get. I found a set of 4" that would fit fine but they were rated at 125 watts. Not enough power to drive those puppies. And lonestarmedic is right. The long way is the best way to get to them for a change out. Be careful not to scratch the grills like I did. The paint comes off real easy. I was going to give them a quick rattle can touch up but they have the speaker cloth behind them so that was out. A small paint brush ended up being the weapon of choice. And lonestar......you happy with the Clarions?
  24. Snaggletooth
    Bob......if it make ya feel any better you aren't alone on the headaches. Thought I was close to closing mine up tomorrow but not gonna happen. I was going over the bike today double checking all the work I had done and went over the wiring for the third time since reading your post. Had the carbs on the bench and was going to put them on today and decided to change the fuel filter before I did. Geesh! Glad I did. The filter was about 1/3 full of sediment. Pulled it off and cut it open and it's rust. A lot of rust. I installed that filter new last spring and put about 7K miles on the bike during the summer. The tank looked good and didn't show rust when I bought it. Opened up the fuel level sensor and took a look. Appears to be about a 1/4" on the stuff in the bottom of the tank. So tomorrow instead of putting on the plastic, I'm pulling the petcock and going to try to clean her out. Wanna try to avoid pulling the tank if I can. And I opened the carbs up. Rust sediment in the fuel bowls pretty good to. So another good cleaning is in order. I'm like you Bob.......I wanna ride. Just ain't meant to be I guess. Hope you are coming along on the harness. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Before I purchased my Deka AGM battery and upgrade stator I installed a digital volt meter in the dash of the bike to keep an eye on my charging system. When I talked to Rick at Buckeye to order my stator he mentioned a Kisan unit called a Charge Guard. This is an excellent addditon to any bike to keep you informed of about everthing that is going on with your charging system and never open the bike up to check and find out. It monitor and displays volts, amps usage + & - I belive and the temps with an ice warning. I like my volt meter but on these bikes knowing where you are at on the amps is a nice touch. This will be my next upgrade to the bike. http://www.gadgetjq.com/kisantech_chargeguard.htm http://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=5&catname=chargeGuard http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=CG
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