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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    I think it was in the first thread where this all started the guy said he only had the connections for 25 units available. If I'm reading all this right the R/R will be $32.00 and the connection pack would be another $5.00 for as long as he has them.
  2. Snaggletooth
    Hey Eck. I got to admit you may be right. I've looked at every pic of a 1st gen I could find and haven't seen anything like it. I've run across two 1st gens here in Omaha and neither one has a rack on it. If it is I'd like to meet the guy who made it. It's a really nice job and and well made. I'd like to have him build me one to my specs. But I'm going to try this. Anyone with a trunk rack that is wider than 12" can you post a pic of the rack and how it sits on the trunk? I'm trying to get an idea of what I'm looking for. Thanks again Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    I got to admit...the guy is sharp. I never would have thought of a tent with a garage.
  4. Snaggletooth
    Count me in on this one Squeeze. Sounds like a good deal to me. Write me up for (1) Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Nope....not that rack. You guys, always one tracking it. Well now that you're here anyway I'm looking for a bigger trunk rack. The one that came on the bike is of unknown make or model to me and as I don't get to see any 1st Gens around here so I'm going to throw this out there. Mine is only 12" wide and 9" deep. It is mounted on a set of Z brackets to the truck to raise it high enough to clear the backrest. The pattern I'd like to match for the mounting is 4" X 9 1/4" to use the existing holes and backing supports inside the trunk. If a larger one had longer support legs to give it some height that would work. If a larger rack had short legs or bolted into the frame of the rack as the current one does I could reuse the Z brackets and mount to a 4" X 11 1/4" pattern. I've got a trunk bag I'd like to be able to use but it's a bit wide for my rack. I'd be looking for something about 18" wide and maybe 12" deep but I could get by with 9" or 10" if needed. I've had not much luck on fleaBay for anything that might work so I'd thought I'd ask if anyone had a parts bike with a rack they aren't going to be using that might meet my needs. I'd buy outright or some horse trading for my old rack which is in very good condition. I'm open to any suggestions, advice or offers. Thanks Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    They are louder than stock by a bit. Not ear shattering by any means but they make a nice low rubble. Decent to cruise with and not all that annoying to others from the comments I get from the folks I ride with. Now......when you give it a twist and run for the redline...then you know they are there. They get louder. I had one guy tell me when I was shifting at about 5,000 they had a snarl like a 350 Chevy he had. I've got about 5,000 miles on mine now and they seem to be getting a little louder and the rumble is a bit deeper. I leave the house at about 4:00 AM each day and none of the neighbors have thrown anything at me yet so thay can't be too bad to others.
  7. Snaggletooth
    Hey Mike. Nice looking bike. The lights look like the same as I used on mine. Pretty durable lil critters. Been on the bike two seasons now and been in all kinds of weather. Still no problems with them. You could add 20 more and not see any noticable drain on the available juice. I run a digital voltmeter in the dash and it don't even flinch when they are turned on. They only use a fraction of the amps of a stock bulb. Like I said, I've left mine on all night and lost no power from the battery. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    I installed four on my '84 where the reflectors were. I use them for running and parking lights. Forgot to turn them off one night and the next morning the battery was still at 12.8. Wally World specials. $6.95 each. Me thinks they look pretty good. er....make that five. I installed an LED light bar on my rear bumper also.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Now that's an application for a 1300 you don't see everyday. Gotta dig it though. I'm glad the guy I bought my bike from didn't see that or I wouldn't have the bike. He builds IH Cubs for his boy to pull with.
  10. Snaggletooth
    Most exellent! These guys are something else.
  11. Snaggletooth
    I guess I'll quit grumbling about my insurance rates now. That's gotta be an interesting policy for coverage.
  12. Snaggletooth
    Me thinks I'll just sit in the boat with a shotgin and a cooler of PBR and kind of keep an eye on things.
  13. Snaggletooth
    If you don't have new diaphragms and the old ones "look good", like mine did here is something you can try. Mine looked fine holding them up to a light but I didn't think they were quite right. I picked up a can of spray Dip It at the hardware store. I cut the threaded top section off of some gallon milk jugs and dropped the slider assm. inside leaving the diaphragm cupped on the outside. A little masking tape over the metal backing plate to keep it clean. A couple of coats of Dip It on the outer side of the diaphragms and let them sit overnight. Popped them back in in the morning at the bike fired up better than it had and ran like a gasoline soaked cat. I only did the outside not to risk any Dip It peeling off and getting sucked into the carbs. Even though the looked good they most certainly were not up to specs. I ordered new ones and kept the treated ones for spares. If you have one with a tear it can be patched with Liquid Electrical Tape. A patch, it's not a fix. But it will get you by for a while. If you can reach into the throat of the carb and push the slider back with a screwdriver and it snaps right back you may have a problem with the diaphragm. I noticed after my spray treatment that the slider moved back into place rather slowly and about the same with the new diaphragms installed. Anyway, something to consider.
  14. Snaggletooth
    From what I understand there should be a set of punch marks near the serial numbers on the engine case. My '84 just hit 50,000 today and is still running strong. I gather most folks haven't had any problem with 2nd gear until around 65K miles, depending on riding style.
  15. Snaggletooth
    Oh Damn! I just noticed that it is only 300 miles from me. It's up to $150.00 this morning and I'm thinking about a quick trip to take a look. Only 3 days left.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Looks like a trip to eBay is in order. The trunk lights show up every now and then. The lower wrap around light bar lights might be a little more challanging to find one light lens if a dealer or an independent shop don't have one laying around.
  17. Snaggletooth
    I was just reading the info on their web site. Looks like a pretty fair deal with the warrenty and the upgrades if you change bikes. Prices are pretty decent. Might have to look into that. Nice find!
  18. Snaggletooth
    Yeepers, you're good to go. About anything in the 41R line works on '84 thru what '88 me thinks. I'm using one from an '86 at the present while I look at changing out a few pieces that look like they need to go away in the origininal '84. A regular little science project. Just call me Sparky.
  19. Snaggletooth
    Hey Squeeze! Got a question for ya. I have access to a brand new set of VMax heads and cams. I need to do some valve work on the #2 cylinder anyway so it has been in my mind to change out the heads and cams to the VMax stuff. Any noticable gain by doing that alone using the carbs off the '84? Or am I gonna need to modify a lot of of other stuff along the way? I'll get back to you in the carb situation that we have been talking about. It's a mind bender but I think I'm making progress. Maybe. A little. Kinda. I got to quit thinking. It's starting to hurt.
  20. Snaggletooth
    The Experienced Riders Class I took here in Omaha put on by the Safety Council was $120.00 for 7 hours on the track and a written test at the end. Only 12 to a group with 2 instructors. You ride your own bike. Google up "Experienced Rider Course Utah" and see what you come up with. I hit a few with that.
  21. Snaggletooth
    Here is a cheap fix for worn and cracked seals in the trim on the trunk and saddlebags. Mine were dry and rotting and leaked all over. Not much seal left at all when I bought the bike. I used a pick and a Dremmel with a wire wheel and cleaned out the grooves and removed all the old seal. A trip to the hardware store and I was back in the garage. What I used was the round rubber beading that you use to install screens in sliding doors and aluminum framed windows. A thin and I mean thin bead of silicon into the groove and then feed the rubber striping into the trim and press it in with a screwdriver or the tool for installing the bead into a frame. I had to grind the install tool down a little as it was kind of thick for the job but it ran the bead in nicely. The rubber strips are ridged so once it's in it stays put real well. Get it all in and close the lid and let her set over night. Mine has been tested in some pretty heavy rain and it is holding up real well. Just something to give you an idea of some options.
  22. Snaggletooth
    One of the instructors we had at the ERC was on an Ultra and the other on a full dress Vulcan. Both bikes had no problem with the short and I mean short circles. The guy on the Vulcan would go full stop then slide off the side of the seat like a road racer and drop a knee to the ground and just flip back and forth doing figure 8's in an 18 X 24 foot box. It was fun to watch but I doubt I'll be wearing knee pucks on the VR. That would just be showing off.
  23. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Jack. I was just getting over the one on eBay. I finally quit drooling and now you got me started again. I got to quit talking to Squeeze and reading his posts on the Max's. I got a jones goin on. Geesh! Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Hi Doug, No problem. I got to tell ya I've had two falls on different Goldwings back in the 80's. Both falls amazed me. I was more than a little familiar with both bikes. One I rode over 180,000 miles on. Both falls were at about 5 MPH turning corners on city streets. I can't say how many hours I spent trying to figure out why I fell. It wasn't until a couple of years ago that it hit me. The front brake thing in a corner. I'd always done it and never thought about it. After buying the "Pro" DVD, which arrived like 15 or 20 minutes before I left to go to an Experienced Ride Class, I finally quit doing it. I never touch the front lever now at low speed until I get to a complete stop. Weird thing, I quit falling over or even coming close to it. The "Pro" DVD's will help you with a lot of stuff. But you got to put in the time to practice. I cut up a bag full of old tennis balls, and I haven't told my daughter where they went yet, and go to the local HS parking lot when it's empty and lay them out and run the course. I've improved my turning a lot, even two up with my daughter I can go full stop either direction and make a clean turn. At first I was worried about dropping the bike so I wrapped the the crash bars with those wrap-around steering wheel covers I picked up at the Dollar Store and wrapped them with duct tape. Scuffed the tape a few times. LOL. But no rash on the bars. Like these guys said, the money on these classes is money well spent. Even the ERC helps break old bad habits and teach you the proper way to handle the bike. I'll be going back in another year or when I buy a new RSV just to keep tuned in. If they ever have a Ride Like a Pro class near me I'll be there. Besides, it drives my neighbor nuts to see me make a U-turn on our two lane street and he swears there is no way the Ultra he rides was designed to do that. Yes I make fun of him and provoke him when I can. Well, he calls my VR a "massive rice burning POS" so I'm entitled to a little fun with the guy. Ride safe. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    The "friction zone" can be a little tricky on our bikes because of the hydraulic clutch. Pretty narrow zone to hit and it starts pretty fast because of the lever action is short after the lever is pulled in. On a cable set up it can be adjusted for a little more throw on the lever. We don't have that option. However, it does work. You just have to get used to the feel of it. As for the linked brakes, no big deal. The way the proportioning valve works is it starts to give pressure to the rear first and as pressure builds the valve then allows fluid to go to the front left brake. The system is designed for 30% presure to the rear and 70% to the front. But at the lower speeds and a light pressure on the pedal you will not be feeling a lot, if any drag to the front brake. Learning the friction zone is something to give you a lot more control over the bike when making tight turns and low speed riding. A good practice is covered in some of the classes by just a straight line at the lowest possble speed. A little drag on the rear and slipping the zone will let you learn to balance the bike while having full control. You'd be suprised how much easier it is to balance that way an how slow you can actually go. Once you feel comfortable with that the stop to stop turns are a lot easier to deal with. You just have to learn to break old habits and keep your fingers off the front brake lever. LOL! Duct tape was getting close to being an option for me. Bad habit. Finally broke it. Mike
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