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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    Hey Squeeze! Got a question for ya. I have access to a brand new set of VMax heads and cams. I need to do some valve work on the #2 cylinder anyway so it has been in my mind to change out the heads and cams to the VMax stuff. Any noticable gain by doing that alone using the carbs off the '84? Or am I gonna need to modify a lot of of other stuff along the way? I'll get back to you in the carb situation that we have been talking about. It's a mind bender but I think I'm making progress. Maybe. A little. Kinda. I got to quit thinking. It's starting to hurt.
  2. Snaggletooth
    The Experienced Riders Class I took here in Omaha put on by the Safety Council was $120.00 for 7 hours on the track and a written test at the end. Only 12 to a group with 2 instructors. You ride your own bike. Google up "Experienced Rider Course Utah" and see what you come up with. I hit a few with that.
  3. Snaggletooth
    Here is a cheap fix for worn and cracked seals in the trim on the trunk and saddlebags. Mine were dry and rotting and leaked all over. Not much seal left at all when I bought the bike. I used a pick and a Dremmel with a wire wheel and cleaned out the grooves and removed all the old seal. A trip to the hardware store and I was back in the garage. What I used was the round rubber beading that you use to install screens in sliding doors and aluminum framed windows. A thin and I mean thin bead of silicon into the groove and then feed the rubber striping into the trim and press it in with a screwdriver or the tool for installing the bead into a frame. I had to grind the install tool down a little as it was kind of thick for the job but it ran the bead in nicely. The rubber strips are ridged so once it's in it stays put real well. Get it all in and close the lid and let her set over night. Mine has been tested in some pretty heavy rain and it is holding up real well. Just something to give you an idea of some options.
  4. Snaggletooth
    One of the instructors we had at the ERC was on an Ultra and the other on a full dress Vulcan. Both bikes had no problem with the short and I mean short circles. The guy on the Vulcan would go full stop then slide off the side of the seat like a road racer and drop a knee to the ground and just flip back and forth doing figure 8's in an 18 X 24 foot box. It was fun to watch but I doubt I'll be wearing knee pucks on the VR. That would just be showing off.
  5. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Jack. I was just getting over the one on eBay. I finally quit drooling and now you got me started again. I got to quit talking to Squeeze and reading his posts on the Max's. I got a jones goin on. Geesh! Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Hi Doug, No problem. I got to tell ya I've had two falls on different Goldwings back in the 80's. Both falls amazed me. I was more than a little familiar with both bikes. One I rode over 180,000 miles on. Both falls were at about 5 MPH turning corners on city streets. I can't say how many hours I spent trying to figure out why I fell. It wasn't until a couple of years ago that it hit me. The front brake thing in a corner. I'd always done it and never thought about it. After buying the "Pro" DVD, which arrived like 15 or 20 minutes before I left to go to an Experienced Ride Class, I finally quit doing it. I never touch the front lever now at low speed until I get to a complete stop. Weird thing, I quit falling over or even coming close to it. The "Pro" DVD's will help you with a lot of stuff. But you got to put in the time to practice. I cut up a bag full of old tennis balls, and I haven't told my daughter where they went yet, and go to the local HS parking lot when it's empty and lay them out and run the course. I've improved my turning a lot, even two up with my daughter I can go full stop either direction and make a clean turn. At first I was worried about dropping the bike so I wrapped the the crash bars with those wrap-around steering wheel covers I picked up at the Dollar Store and wrapped them with duct tape. Scuffed the tape a few times. LOL. But no rash on the bars. Like these guys said, the money on these classes is money well spent. Even the ERC helps break old bad habits and teach you the proper way to handle the bike. I'll be going back in another year or when I buy a new RSV just to keep tuned in. If they ever have a Ride Like a Pro class near me I'll be there. Besides, it drives my neighbor nuts to see me make a U-turn on our two lane street and he swears there is no way the Ultra he rides was designed to do that. Yes I make fun of him and provoke him when I can. Well, he calls my VR a "massive rice burning POS" so I'm entitled to a little fun with the guy. Ride safe. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    The "friction zone" can be a little tricky on our bikes because of the hydraulic clutch. Pretty narrow zone to hit and it starts pretty fast because of the lever action is short after the lever is pulled in. On a cable set up it can be adjusted for a little more throw on the lever. We don't have that option. However, it does work. You just have to get used to the feel of it. As for the linked brakes, no big deal. The way the proportioning valve works is it starts to give pressure to the rear first and as pressure builds the valve then allows fluid to go to the front left brake. The system is designed for 30% presure to the rear and 70% to the front. But at the lower speeds and a light pressure on the pedal you will not be feeling a lot, if any drag to the front brake. Learning the friction zone is something to give you a lot more control over the bike when making tight turns and low speed riding. A good practice is covered in some of the classes by just a straight line at the lowest possble speed. A little drag on the rear and slipping the zone will let you learn to balance the bike while having full control. You'd be suprised how much easier it is to balance that way an how slow you can actually go. Once you feel comfortable with that the stop to stop turns are a lot easier to deal with. You just have to learn to break old habits and keep your fingers off the front brake lever. LOL! Duct tape was getting close to being an option for me. Bad habit. Finally broke it. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Hey Art! Glad it worked out so well and so quickly. Bet your boy will be thrilled to see you. I got an X wife with "issues" and she has tried to pull a stunt like that a couple of times. She found out the judge didn't give much of a rats a$$ about her "issues". LOL! She learned! The hard way. All for the best Art. Hug the boy all you can man and tell him there are a bunch of us cheering for him. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    Well Damn! Just got my e-mail. Came close on that one. $60.00 is still a smoking deal but the I liked the first price better. LOL!
  10. Snaggletooth
    We had a long discussion on batteriers on this thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33375&highlight=deka+ETX18L&page=3 Get ahold of Joshua at Bohannon Battery and order from him. Great guy to deal with and a member here. Can't beat the price for the quality of the battery. Better ratings than anything else out there for a lot more bucks. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/deka.html
  11. Snaggletooth
    That price is nuts! I just placed my order. Nice find there V7Goose!
  12. Snaggletooth
    I hear ya Jack. Price is unreal for battery performance. I put mine though the wringer everyday. Sometimes 20 or 25 starts a day and hot or cold she spins like a top. Let her sit for a few days and it's still full capacity every time. I ordered mine right after Josh started posting his specs and you ordered yours. So far...so good. Hope your health issues are minor and get back in the saddle soon. Anyway......back at the ranch....
  13. Snaggletooth
    Hey Jack. You put the DEKA in the '83? That quite to lil power house for a battery ain't it. Best battery I ever bought. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Hey Tim. I'd be more interested in the connection plugs and wires myself. Did you ever upgrade to a higher performance stator. I remember you were asking questions on that a while back. And then there is the guage itself. Not so hot to start with. If you check the charging system after a cold start with a decent multimeter and then again after it hits operating temps you might see a difference. Now I'm going to mention this. I installed the Buckeye upgrade a couple of thousand miles ago along with the DEKA AGM battery. Best move I made with this bike. No more battery problems or hot starting problems at all. I installed a digital voltmeter in the dash to monitor the charging system. No more worries. BUT, I have noticed odds fluxes in the charge that seem to be related to the temps. I installed everything when the weather was warm and running into the 90's on some days. The charge always ran about 14.3 to 14.5 with only the headlight and stock running lights on. The way it should be. Now we have had some pretty cool mornings lately dropping into the 50's and not getting over 75 during the day. The charges is sitting around 13.4 to 13.9 when it is colder out. It warmed up today and the charge ran up to 14.3 while I was out on the highway running for a while. The meter always shows the battery at 12.8 to 13.0 when I shut it off and even after the bike has sat for a few days. It's charging fine but the temps seem to affect it. As a note: The voltmeter in the dash is a bit low when compared to the digital. Even at 14.5 volts on the digi the analog shows a bit below the line to indicate the proper charge. With the bike not running the analog shows about 11 volts when the digi shows 12.8. Oh.... and one question. Was the voltmeter dropping during the slow crawl though the crowd when you applied the brakes? That will show up on the gauge like a rock dropping. Those two 1157's really draw the amps. So with all that said have you checked the three leads from the stator with a voltmeter so see if they are all equal?
  15. Snaggletooth
    Did pretty much the same thing on my '84. Really makes the bike stand out even on cloudy days. Get a lot of comments on them. You did a nice job. Looks good.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Harley must be dusting off the NOVA. The V-4 is nothing new to them. Just didn't fit their image 25 years ago. I think Willie said, "A water cooled V4 in a HD?........not in my life time!" http://www.bikerenews.com/AntiqueBikes/CodeNameNova.htm
  17. Snaggletooth
    I have got to say you and your family have been on my mind for some time during this difficult situation. It made me very happy today to see that it went the way it did. Sometimes justice, in even its most limited form, can sometimes actually happen for good people. My daughter and I both are overjoyed to see this come to an end for you. Hopefully Haylie, being so young can move forward with minor effect on her in the future. The worst is over. You are a remarkable woman from what I have read over the last few months. You have a lot of salt girl. God bless you and your family. Mike and Ashley
  18. Snaggletooth
    Damn! So close! One of these days I'm actually meet somebody from this club. Well I run Hwy 183 up to Mo Valley most every weekend just for the fun of it. Probably catch up with ya one of these days. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Hey Owen. Were you up around Cresent the other day on Hwy 183 turning west back towards I-29? I was stopped at the gas station on the corner there and a silver RSV came around the corner and we kind of eyeballed each other and waved but I couldn't get caught up to him. Just wondering. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Freebird. Learn something new every day. I got to get to one of these MD's so I can see some other bikes with their inards showing. All I get to look at is mine. But I figured the principle would be the same.
  21. Snaggletooth
    Hi Annie, No problem with the stock masters working with the SS. Will be fine. You either have some air at the high point of the linked system which would be at the metering valve behind the steering head or if it's the front brakes you probably have a bubble in the master where the banjo bolt goes into it. The only way I've found to bleed the linked (rear / left front) that is sure fire is this. Pump the brakes and crack open the bleeder valve on the metering valve behind the forks. If you bought SS lines from Rick at Buckeye you should have a new 6" line coming off the valve going to the right side of the bike. That's the one. When that one quits spitting move to the left front caliper. Repeat the bleeding process. When that one clears THEN go to the back caliper. Repeat the bleed process again. Keep checking the master for fluid level through the process. If you don't get ALL the air out of that high point you will not get the full advantage of the SS lines. If the front brake is the problem a bubble in the master is more than likely. Wrap a rag around the banjo bolt on the front of the master and crack the bolt open a bit. Pull in the lever and tighten the bolt. Repeat a few times. If it persists, take the bolt all the way out and shoot some brake fluid into the bolt hole and repeat the process again. This works well if you don't have a Mighty Vac or something similiar to pull fluid through the system. Even though I seen the vac systems still seem to cause the bubble in the front master more often than not. You will know when you get it right. The SS lines feel like the pedal / lever come to a dead stop when the lines are bled out properly. Real solid feel to it it. No more mushy, no more fade. Let us know if this don't resolve the problem. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    Yamaha part# 3JJ-14653-00-00 cross references to another number on boats.net. http://www.boats.net/HostedStore.LassoApp?-ResponseLassoApp=cart.lasso&add=e3e5117348d74550a1c8e331f5d2a2736d111242e1aa4158&__utma=188097595.1971776803437916000.1234319002.1234319002.1234319002.1&__utmb=188097595.16.10.1234319002&__utmc=188097595&__utmx=-&__utmz=188097595.1234319002.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=(organic)|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=47G-14653-00-00&__utmv=-&__utmk=78456596 Shipping was a little stiff but I had them in a few days. When you install them put them on the header pipe first and then hold them in place with your finger while you slide the muffs on. Best fit was with the front edge of the gasket right even with the end of the slip on. I had mine to far to the rear and had to redo it for a good seal.
  23. Snaggletooth
    In short, as far as a 1st gen...........yes they will. Found out a couple of years ago. I was "testing" to see how soild 2nd gear was. Not a huge lift but about a foot off the ground for 50 or 60 ft. Haven't tried it again since. Now as far as the GW, a buddy had a GL1200 when I had my CB 750. He could pop it up and ride it for blocks. Something to see. I don't know if the 1800's could pull that off.
  24. Snaggletooth
    I'll be the first to ask a stupid question........did you get new exhaust gaskets for them? Just askin'....
  25. Snaggletooth
    A local guy did this mod to an 8' trailer. Just cut the front and rewelded new framework to a v shape. Bolted the chock onto the extension and he has 9" inches of space behind the rear wheel now.
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