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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Here are some shots of the axle and swing arm off mine.
  2. This is a shot of a 2nd gen but it shows the correct placement of the parts. I have my '84 with rear subframe off right now so I'll take a few pics and post them for you to compare to yours. Give me a few and I'll be back. But that swing arm looks like toast to me.
  3. Hey Autopilot. No such thing as too much information. And that is why I asked. I have some basic background on hydraulic systems from my youth while working as a mechanic for MF on construction equipment but this is a different animal. I have been looking this thing over in my spare time the last couple of days and found some more parts he chopped off. Looks like a relay mounting board that was fried and the wires were just cut off. No new relay was installed. Just eliminated the old one. So I know the coil melted and a relay burned to a crisp. As to what caused it......only a wild guess would do at this point. I know for a fact the lift had not been used for over an hour as the pump has a distinct whine when it is running and it didn't make a sound before the smoke rolled. We are on the same track as far as the function and the purpose but the guy that did the work removed so much of the wiring I'm having a hard time backtracking the cause of the problem. My best guess at this point is the internal rectifier in the coil failed and caused the melt down and that shorted the relay. I'm going to disect the coil to take a look at the guts. It's more than a safety issue at this point.......curiosity kicked in and that always screws up my spare time.
  4. Thanks for the imput guys. Gettin the ID on the lift is a no go. Been there since the building went up 20 some years ago and all the tags, labels or ID plate are long gone. We took over the building 5 years ago so no way to find any records. The lift is working as is and stays up in the raised position after the er....repair and don't bleed down. I'm looking at the coil as maybe a safety lock that holds the armature in place when the controls are not being used or in case of a failure it won't drop down unexpectedly. I had a delivery driver come in today and asked if the the lift was repaired yet. I answered "I hope so" and handed him my helmet, gloves and the first aide kit. He broke the load down and carried it up the stairs on a two wheeler. Oh those of little faith. LOL! But we shall see. Thanks again Mike
  5. Got a question. The company I work for has a hydraulic lift on our dock. The tank and pump for it is inside in a cabinet next to my work area. The other day smoke came rolling out of the cabinet so I killed the power and opened it up. On the pump assembly there is a shaft that sticks out and there is a coil on it. That was fried and the cause of the smoke. The lift will still work but it will drop back down to ground level when you release the button on the control. They had a company repair guy (shade tree) come in and he spent three days working on it. This morning the lift was working but when I inspected the pump I saw he had removed the coil and not replaced it. He did some rewiring (hack job) and left it at that. The "repair" work he did it sloppy and left bare wires. So with that info can anybody tell me what this coil does? It's a Delta Power Company DOL25 24 VAC. Fits a 1/2 shaft. I have some safety concerns about this repair and want to know how this works and what it does.
  6. Wow! I had one of them! I've been divorced for 17 year now and she still pulls stuff that is absolutely nuts. At the divorce I was awarded full custody of our daughter, then only 11 months old. I've had full custody ever since. At the time of final settlement all the financials were split in a decent manner, in my eyes anyway it seemed fair. She paid her part of the debts and I paid mine. Right after the divorce I started getting bills and phone calls from credit card companies and businesses about unpaid bills. I then found out she had 23 credit cards I didn't know about and she never listed them on the settlements. Over $26,000 on the cards and she never made a purchase, just cash transactions. Best part was I was shown to be the second party on the cards and I had never seen or signed anything as such. I had my lawyer take care of that. But she continued to open new accounts and they were signed with my name long after the divorce, even up to 3 years ago. The best one that I received a call two years ago from my bank wanting to know when I was going to come in and sign the papers to transfer my savings into my "new" business account. I said I'd be right there. The officer was confused as I was not the guy that he had met with earlier in the week. She had gone in and had some guy with her claiming to be me and attempted to move all my funds to another account. Nice try. Still fraud charges involved today. And she had her shot at the IRS to. She filed her taxes as the custodial parent and was getting a pretty nice refund. It took two years to clean that up and she wasn't happy when the IRS withheld her refunds for two years and I ended up with the money from that. So with that said.........DEAL WITH HER NOW!!! If she has put herself in a position where she doing a criminal act.....take her out with the law on your side. A little jail time will do her good. Or at least prove that you are willing to make a point with a sharp stick. No mercy.....no prisoners.
  7. Cheaper than a wax job I'm sure!
  8. Yep. Sounds like a bubble to me to. I find the worst place for air to get trapped when vacing out a sytem is right at the union to the master. Crack the union bolt a bit and give the lever a squeeze. Works for me.
  9. Yeppers, much simpler. I hate having to pull the lightbar and all the little pieces to get to the stuff I need to work on. This way, pull a few bolts and walla! There it is. So this is what I got out of my fuel filter and the inside of the tank. I've had this bike for two years and nothing in the filter until the last 2,000 miles. Nasty. The filter screens on the pickup on the petcock were basically gone so everything ran through into the line filter so they must have let go recently. Just heard from Rick at Buckeye on a new petcock. Ouch! Oh well! What's a fella gonna do? Got my epoxy sealer coming from Caswells so it will have time to cure by the time the petcock gets here. So back to the garage.
  10. It was surprisingly easy to get to that point. Instead of removing EVERYTHING on the back of the bike I just unbolted the sub frame and took it all off as an assembly. Took about 30 minutes to get the fuel tank out.
  11. Hey Dano! Tell the rust in my fuel tank that! Somethings just won't wait for the snow to fall. But at the outside this should only be a 3 or 4 day job and that's counting the cure time for the epoxy tank liner. Like I said two years ago.....I'm not rebuilding my bike......I'm building a new one. Little did I know how true that would turn out to be.
  12. Very creative! Nice job!
  13. I finally found an easy way to get the breather hose from the crankcase back onto the air box. Just reached in and slipped it on! No hassle! Tooks seconds! No 11" pliers! Really! All you have to do is remove the rear subframe and fuel tank and there it is! And no, I haven't been into the beer.......yet.
  14. Hey Bill. I've only seen a few 1st gens around here. A couple of burgundys, another blonde and a couple of weeks ago I ran across a black one going the other way on "Q" street. Not a glimpse of a brown. If ya see me around on mine throw a rock at me. Like to meet ya. Mike
  15. You want a sticky tire? Go Avon Venom X! Had mine for 2 seasons now and going strong. Great rain tire and holds well on all roads. Quiet to! What is it with the blondes around here lately?
  16. Hey Jack. I discovered this by accident but is seems to work. I had some odds and ends of master cylinder diaphrams and a couple of carb diaphrams that were wrinkled up and looked like they were headed for the trash. I had a few parts I took to a buddies shop for cleaning and he had a high pressure parts washer that's heated to clean and dry the parts. I loaded the basket with the metal parts and then as an afterthought I threw in the rubber parts to. When they came out they looked like new and were supple again and in their orginal shape. I ended up using two of the carb diaphrams until I go my new ones. If ya got a buddy in a shop around there that has one of these types of parts washers you might give it a try.
  17. Sounds like a plan Daryl. Want to have something to practice on before I start on repairing cracks on my bodywork. I don't need any mounting hardware, just the ABS body and the edge trim. Shoot me a PM when you are ready. Thanks Mike
  18. If Daryl changes his mind let me know. Been looking for a spare that needs some work to practice repair and paint on for my '84. I've got to run into you eventually as you are just across the creek and I'm over there 5 days a week for work. What color is your '85?
  19. Saw that a while back. Kinda slick looking. Then again.....I like the Victory Vision.
  20. I thought the possum was the bait. And with that thought exactly what were you fishing for? Considering the handgun........I have to ask.
  21. To remove just pry open the plastic clip that holds the metal "splicer" in place. Then use a pick to pry up the "splicer" and pull it out and slide the lock off the wires. A good look at the wires should tell you if the core wires were broken or starting to corrode. You can get by with the cleaning and a little liquid tape if needed but if you see any sign of damage or corrosion then you need to look at splicing in a new section.
  22. Yammer. You can try this. Go to the "Start" button. Select "All Programs" then "Accessories" then "System Tools" then "System Restore". At that point you will have a window with two options. Choose to restore to a previous date. Select a date prior to your problem and follow the instructions. Remember to write down the date you choose to use in the future. That is important. Then you can always go back to that point and go from there. The run whatever vurus protection and cleaning software you have before proceeding. Done it a few times for "unexplained losses". Doh! Pretty safe and easy to do. Then back the thing up to disc to cover your tail feathers next time.
  23. With 26 years in OTR transportation and out of that 13 were as a driver of tractor/trailer I always preferred that a motorcycle just stayed where I could see him coming up and then just got the pass over with as quickly as he could. I had an advantage as I pulled flat and lowboy trailers most the time so I had a pretty good field of view to the rear. The one thing about any driver will tell you that he hates is someone lingering in his mirrors and and not knowing what they were going to do. More so at night with the headlights burning. So stay in out of the No Zone and pass as with as much room as you can and do it quick and clean. Move well ahead of the truck before changing back into his lane.
  24. Can't help on a spare proportioning valve, I'd love to have an extra myself, but you can open that puppy up and pull the spindle and valves out clean it up and put it back together without the guts to get by for a while. You won't have the 70/30 spilt on pressure, more like 50/50 but it will work. Ran mine that way for a few months. Brakes worked fine. When I bought my bike the PO had opened the valve for some reason and got it back together wrong and it took a while to figure out the right way as there are no exploded views available anywhere. No rebuild kits. No nuttin. So I was dealing with no brakes at all until I gutted it. In a jam.....make do ya know. I see a lot of master cylinders on eBay with the proportioning valve still attached. From the dealers I think they quoted me $165.00 for new. By the way the attached pic is how mine came apart......not the right order at all.
  25. When you camp in bear territory you have to understand how to deal with bears! Wasn't there a sign with information?
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