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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    That's why I hang around here. Learn something new every day. Just out of curiousity......does the metal MKI chin fit well over the upgrade spin on oil filter adaptor? That's why I added a chin off the MKII to mine. Just to add some protection to the filter body itself,
  2. Snaggletooth
    I'll keep looking through all the pics I have on file. I've got to have something that shows a close up of the chin mounted. I spent a year watching eBay for a good metal chin and finally tripped over an ABS one in great shape and my color. And Cheap! Then I had to find crash bars to work so cheap went out the window. LOL! Ain't changing stuff fun? I'll be watching this one to find out the end of the story. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    I'm out of it then. I added a chin off an '86 or '87 to my '84 and had to change the crash bars out with one from an '86 for the mounting tabs. I was under the impression that the metal chin mounted up under the crash bar mounts but looking at a pic of Mikes bike it don't look like it. The crash bars off a MKII have the mounting tabs but they don't look like they would line up for the metal one. Sorry can't be of more help. Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    You trying to mount the metal chin or an ABS one?
  5. Snaggletooth
    Yeppers. Too high of speed. Use a very fine tooth blade on a low speed and let the saw do the work. Use no more pressure than the saw needs to move forward. Always try to do the cut in one move if possible and let the blade stop moving before pulling it out. It helps to have an extra pair of hands to hold the top section from binding on the blade to. Using painter tape on the shield will help keep the shield from getting scratched while cutting to.
  6. Snaggletooth
    Well.......just for the record, since I drained the 20/50 out and refilled it with 10/40 again it has started from dead cold every morning this week just like it always has in the past. Touch of choke...push the switch and off she goes. Engage clutch it hitting like it should every time hot or cold. I think Squeeze may have hit it on the tolerances of the new parts and possible burrs on the housing just making it too tight with the heavier oil. Best answer that makes sense so far. I'll try my luck with 20/50 again when it gets hot next season. Some things are just hard to explain. Thanks for all the input guys. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    I liked that about the group also. Decent, open discusion without the bashing.
  8. Snaggletooth
    Lutz makes an interesting point on the tolerances of the new parts along with the heavier oil. Might be on to something there. The bike caught on the first try this morning, with 10/40 back in it, with no problem. Started fine everytime after that. And no....no Molykote for me thanks.
  9. Snaggletooth
    It ain't quite like that. LOL! The old one would miss a beat now and then and rattle once in a while. Sounded like a future problem......so with the NOS parts, new as in never used still in package, they went in as long as I had the bike apart to do the stator replacement. Better to tear it down once than twice. It went on my list as preventative maintanence.
  10. Snaggletooth
    Hey again Squeeze. I gotta tell ya.....I'm a bit baffled on this one. It really makes no sense even with the heavier oil. 10W.....to 20W.....not all that much difference. And it's not like it's dropping below zero overnight. I really expected to find a broken spring or two or the housing spit open. But when I replaced the old one this spring and really for no good reason other than I had the NOS parts on the shelf and was already inside to do the stator, I found no problem with it either. I mic'd the rollers for roundness and the contact surface of the collar on the 72 tooth gear and other than it being coated with black gunge when cleaned up it checked out fine and the surface was round and smooth. I mic'd the new rollers today and the collar surface and found no problems. I had a thought hit me this afternoon that maybe I had grabbed some oil by mistake that had some weird lube additive in it that was coating the collar preventing it from gripping or causing it the rollers to hang up. Doh! I did see my brand in the 20/50 and grabbed four of them and never read the bottles. After digging in the trash I found the bottles and it was just my normal oil. I hate it when I over think a problem. I'm old school Lutz. I'm old so I'm old school. I built racing engines for my CB 750 stroker and my 900 Kaws with knurled pistons for Gods sake. I had motors that the tolerances were so tight that I had to fire up a salamander heater to warm up the engine enough to let it turn over. I freaked out the first time I opened up a modern bike motor and found that the piston was nothing more than a ring holder. Seemed to me that half of it was missing. LOL! So the idea that an oil change can screw up a running bike amazes me. There has to be more to it than that. I'll figure it out. BTW.....I did try the bike a little while ago. Hooked right up. Running in 2 second flat. Go figure. Thinking about the good old days.....I threw in a pic I found taken back in 79 or 80 if I remember right. That's me on the far side. Home built bike, jeans and a bombers jacket. I did beat the kid on the sponsored, shop built, make for the track, lots-o-cash racer. He broke his helmet he threw it so hard. Bad days for him. Great day for me. Had a few great days at that track. I also learned back than that it was illegal to operate a motorcycle on a state highway with wheelie bars attached. Or so the State Patrol said so. I got a ticket even though I made it clear that it wasn't a "wheelie bar", it was my center stand. The trooper did offer to write me another ticket for defective vehicle as it was kind low. I stuck with the 1st ticket. I knew when to quit.
  11. Snaggletooth
    Check around under "Drag Specialties". They are Barons Minis. I found some on Ebay awhile back for mine. I'd like tp find some of the cork gaskets for mine.
  12. Snaggletooth
    If your dealer found you a bigger rack have him see if he has another one covered with dust somewhere back there. I'm hunting for a larger one myself. The one that came on mine is only about 12 X 9 inches. My tank bag needs one about 12 x 18 to fit right. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Hey Lutz! Good to hear from you. I just came in from washing up. I tried the bike this morning and the same thing. Dead cold......no catchy! I pulled the cover and the rotor off to see what was going on. As soon as I got the rotor and gear off I wrapped them in cheese cloth and took it down to my shop to get a good look at it. I rinsed it still wrapped in the cheese cloth to catch anything that might be loose. Found nothing. The 72 tooth gear looks like it did the day I installed it. It was NOS when I bought it and so was the engage clutch. The gear collar surface is great and no signs of cracking or damage of any kind. No cracks around base of collar. The clutch body shows no cracks nor were the staked bolts loose at all. Rollers: All good. Springs: No bends or stretch. Pins: No damage or wear. Idler gears: Still look new. No wear. (also NOS this spring) So I threw it back together with the old gaskets and new bolts staked in the rotor. I did check the inside of the engine case for any signs of something that might have been flopping around in there.....nuttin. Filled it up with 10/40 and hit the switch. Caught on the first try dead cold. Started it about 7 or 8 times and let it run for a few minutes then shut it down and try again. It hit every time. I then let it idle for about 20 minutes and shut it down and tried again. Good to go. I'm going to let it sit overnight and see what happens in the morning. I may have let the gremlin out when I opened the case. LOL! Who knows? I've put about 5,000 miles on the bike since I installed the new engage clutch along with the Buckeye upgrade stator. Haven't had problem one until I changed the oil to 20/50. As the guys have reported that should not be the problem but it was the first thing I thought of as it was the only things that had changed. Well other than giving the fuel tank the epoxy liner. But that is another story and should play no part in this problem. As far as running the starter for extended periods of time.....not so much. I'd give it a 5 second crank and wait maybe 30 seconds before trying again. Maybe 10 or 15 tries each morning before it would catch. After it warmed up........no more problem. So whatever it was may be gone. I'll know more tomorrow morning. Thanks guys. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Hey Dano. Now that sounds like an idea. I just happen to have a good rotor sitting around waiting for the one I have to go bad. What are the odds of that? So is Squeeze making the engage clutch himself or does he have something else cooking? So I'll keep looking into this slippery situation and see what I can figure out. Thanks guys Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Here is a weird one. First of all I might mention my engage clutch was new this spring along with the 72 tooth gear and the battery is not suspect at all. This just started after the last oil change from 10/40 to 20/50 oil, that was the day before this problem started. The bike has always started great. Touch of a button. Hot or cold. Since the change to 20/50, which I have never used before, and when the temps drop down into the mid 40's or so the bike has been difficult to start in the mornings and after long cooling off time where it gets back to cold to the touch. What I am finding is the starter is spinng but the engine is not turning when it's cold. No compression so no spark. It seems the engage clutch is not taking hold. After say 5 minutes of on and off cranking it will catch and fires right up. After it warms up a bit I have no problems at all with it starting again. If I leave the bike parked overnight I go through the same thing in the morning when it's cool out. After the first cold start, it's fine again. What this tells me is the the cold oil might be thick enough to keep the pawls from engaging properly to grip the face of the 72 tooth ring gear. But with that in mind as the engine warms up the oil should be a bit thicker. However the oil would be more fluid as it heats up so that may be a null point. When the engine is warmed up or up to running temps it starts with a touch of the switch. Cold. not so good until the engage clutch has been spinning for a while. Then it hits and off we go. By the way.....the engage clutch is quiet. None of the knocking common with a failure. So, anybody else run into this? There ya go Condor. You wanted some new problems. I'm here for ya buddy. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    I installed an upgrade (blade) fuse panel a year ago. It has extra fuses not required for the stock system so I have an advantage of running seperate curcuits for add ons. I run 15 amp fuse in the panel and a 10 amp on the line as a backup for the drivers. I installed the Buckeye upgrade stator this spring and it does a great job of pulling the load. With the 55 watt drivers, the rear light bar and the marker lights along with the stock lighting it only drops to 13.5 at an idle. Stopped with the brake lights on it will drop to 13.2. Running down the road she stays at 14.2 with everything on. I'm happy with those numbers.
  17. Snaggletooth
    In short......Yes. Better ride, better wear, more miles out of them. What tires did you go with?
  18. Snaggletooth
    Can't spell Crap without rap.
  19. Snaggletooth
    I ran the main power feed off the extra line on the fuse panel and then to the relay. I spliced into the high beam light and used that as a trigger to kick in the relay. I did use a smaller fuse in the new power line to the lights (besides the fuse in the panel) to keep it on the safe side. If the lights blow the smaller fuse you keep everything else and you know right where to go to fix it.
  20. Snaggletooth
    I hope you have better luck on used decel diaphragms than I did. Mine looked good, or at least a lot better than what I dug out of the used carbs I bought. New ones aren't too bad. I think I paid $18.00 each for them. I was disappointed with the forst set of carbs I bought off a "running" bike. LOL! Forgot to ask exactly what year it actually ran in. I learned. Even at that I was able to harvest a couple hundred bucks worth of parts out of a $75.00 investment. Have fun with it. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Thanks for pursuing this. It would be an interesting change for our bikes. Keep us posted on how things develope as you get some miles on it. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    They have one on permanent display at the Aerospace Museum here in Omaha. It's elevated above you as you walk through the front door you are looking at the nose of the thing. It's a pretty impressive sight. Not as good as watching one take off at night. Seen that a couple of times. And to think these have been around since what......the 60's? Oh Doh! Now I watch the vid! R/C.....very cool. That should keep the neighbors cat entertained.
  23. Snaggletooth
    The breather hose runs from a vent tube on the top of the crankcase to the bottom of the air box. The crankcase is zero pressure but the intake in the air box creates a vacumn that pulls vapor from the crankcase up into the air box and back into the intake to the carbs. The problem of oil getting into the air box is most noticed when the engine is over filled with oil, past the half way mark on the sight glass, and oil ends up in the box. Therefore the reason for the drain tube on the front left corner of the box. There is a mod for that that returns the oil back to the breather tube for another go around. The filter they are talking about is installed on the vent tube on the top of the engine, therefore eliminating the breather tube back to the box itself. So no more oil is passed that way, so no build up in the box. The port on the bottom of the box is simply plugged off. As the crank case is zero pressure the filter is nothing more than a vent, but filtered. As long as you don't overfill the oil it is a good fix. No more fighting to put the hose back on.
  24. Snaggletooth
    I had a little of that popping, but not bad. It went away when I checked my carb sync and found the #3 was a bit off. I know my decels are in good shape. I replaced them when I rebuilt the carbs. But if you have never opened them up it might be a good idea. Out of two sets of used carbs I have bought for harvesting parts I've only found three decel diaphragms that were any good. Lots of corrosion and hard diaphragms.
  25. Snaggletooth
    That is called the diaphragm and slider assembly. From the looks of the pic you are probably going to be looking for a replacement. The diaphragm can be replaced on a good slider but it looks like that one has pretty much given up the ghost. Best be taking a real good look at the other three also.
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