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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    Ok.... an update to my comments to improving the ground on the brush plate. Been comparing notes with Dingy on the starter. Apparently the PO made some mods on this prior to my owning the bike. So what I did was sort of a duplication of what he did but not a complete seperate ground. The PO had added an extra wire and a rather simple spring strip to rub against the inside of the starter housing. I thought is was a stock setup when I opened it up. Not the case so I'm not going into what he did. More complicated that it needed to be. So here is the deal. The whole point it to improve the ground from the brush plate to the starter housing. The tabs on the mounting plate (white arrows) are the contact points for the ground on the plate to the starter housing. This has been questioned as a possible cause of the heat soak/hot start problem. Given the expansion and contaction of different materials at changing temps it's a reasonable assumption. The best way to gain a better ground is add a wire from the plate to the starter housing directly. (blue line) And making sure the tabs on the plate fit firmly into the housing itself. Clean and tight. This involves some drilling and tapping and I'd go with Red Loctite as you don't want the screws coming loose inside the starter. Make sure the new ground wire (heavy gauge or even solid) is tucked against the outer wall of the housing and well out of the way and will stay put. Hope that helps. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Ok Dingy. Good pics but my bad. It's been a couple years since I did mine. Pull the brush mounting plate up and the ground wire will be undeneath it. I thought I remembered that you could see it from the top side.
  3. Snaggletooth
    Hey Poppa Bear. The extra ground strap I was talking about is internal on the starter. When you open it up and look at the brush plate assembly you will see a braided wire ground on the one side. Simply duplicate that on the other side. Not a big deal to make the mod once you see what I'm talking about. The new solenoid was a NOS OEM I found on eBay. The starter is the orginal 2 brush from my '84. I was having the old "heat soak, hot start" problems like so many of the guys have had. Drag like bear when it was hot and had to wait for it to cool down to get it going again. I stripped mine down and did a complete cleaning and got rid of all the gunk and dust and cleaned the armature contacts. Cleaned up the grooves on the armature with a jewels saw. Changed out the brushes, added the ground strap and lubed the bushings good before putting it back together. With the upgraded cables the power got to where it needed to be and starter performs great now. No more hot start problems either. Did a 135 miles on a 98 degree day on the Interstate and stopped for fuel. Shut it off and hit the button and it fired right back up. Never gave it another thought. Been great ever since.
  4. Snaggletooth
    You got a PM
  5. Snaggletooth
    Liquid diet? Cats? You got a friend!
  6. Snaggletooth
    And there ya go....... I was just looking at their site. That's the same set I bought off eBay. Can't beat that price. They do the job. Have had mine in for two season now and the starter spins like a top. But than again, cable upgrade, full rebuild on the starter with extra ground strap, DEKA AGM battery, new solenoid, upgraded fuse panel..........yep! And to think I was going to skip the brushes! D'oh!
  7. Snaggletooth
    Lookin' pretty good! Keep an eye on eBay. There have been several covers listed lately to fit over the radio hole. A set of pockets just sold today for a bit of cash. It was about $66.00 when I quit looking. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    You got a PM.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Keep an eye open for brush sets tagged as "B-5 Mitsuba 2-Brush". I picked up two sets a year ago off eBay for $5.00 each. Perfect match for our starters. Man after buying those I feel like a thief. Been looking at the prices for them today and that's just nuts.
  10. Snaggletooth
    Ouch! $12.00 bucks an hour.....Geesh! Sorry to hear that. Hang in there Brad.
  11. Snaggletooth
    That's it Lutz.......I'm moving to Germany! You guys get all the good prices and nice high performance stuff! I bought a NOS lot last year of twelve of those plugs off eBay and still paid more than $3.00 each. But that was still a bargin on the darn things. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    The gaskets you will need are: Front cover: 3JP-15451-00-00 Rear cover: 26H-15461-00-00 Crush gasket: 90430-06014-00 The front and rear gaskets are needed for sure. The crush washer (gasket) is on the bolt in the 6 o'clock position on the rear cover. IT MUST be in that position as that bolt allows some oil drainage when loosened or the washer is bad. I have reused mine several times with no problems with a simple cleaning and a light buff to make sure it's smooth. A new one is a good bet. Rick at Buckeye Performance can set you up with the parts. Contact him though his web site: http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/
  13. Snaggletooth
    I used to braid my beard to keep it from blowing up in my face while I was riding. LOL!
  14. Snaggletooth
    The 2nd gen gaskets are fine to use and even easier to install as to a slightly different shape on the outer lip. Best bet is to clean up the covers and use a light coat of sealant in the groove of the cover, install the gaskets and let it sit over night. A lot easier than trying to hold the gaskets in while reinstalling the covers. The gaskets are about $20.00 to $30.00 each at the dealers and can be found on eBay once in a while. I found a set for $12.00 each a while back on eBay. When you pull the cover off you will find a tapered rubber plug on each bolt. Best bet is to replace them all. They get pretty hard over the years. If I remember right they are on the pricey side as you need sixteen of them. About $6.00 or $8.00 buck each. I had my carbs off and the battery box out when I did mine and it was pretty simple at that point. A word of advice.......while you are at it.......replace that breather hose from the crankcase to the air box with a new one. My old one was stiff as a piece of pipe and a PITA to get back on. The new one is much easier to remove and install. And remember these wise words from an old bike mechanic. "Every bike is about $2,000 away from being finished." Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Not being a 2nd gen guy but er........isn't there supposd to be a trunk? So a TD maybe?
  16. Snaggletooth
    Hi Tom. Keep an eye on eBay for sure. They pop up every now and then. New I think they run about $370.00. There was a fella around here a while back that was making them, with some nice improvements, but was a bit higher than a new EOM. Anybody know if Mark is still making them? A good fab guy can piece them back together if there is enough meat to work with. Sounds like you might be on the thin side. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    Now that is a Public Service Annoucment! I've been talking to Squeeze and Dano on this for a while and from what info I've been given it looks like the cure all, end all for the starter clutch problems. The design is way beyond what the bikes currently use. When Squeeze says it "Locks", no doubt in my mind that is a true statement. I've had two engage clutches fail in two years and have only been waiting fore weather to warm up enough to pull the rotor on mine again and have this mod done. Looking forward to no more rattling clutch and slipping on the 72 tooth gear. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    Drat! 44 but worth the laugh.
  19. Snaggletooth
    Here's what I came up with on my '84. Mine was missing when I bought the bike. I found some edge molding like they use on the car doors to keep them from getting (or making dings) and fabbed one out of that. The regular door trim is pretty stiff and some even had a metal strip in it. I found some trim at a hardware store that was a more flexable but firm rubber. It was about the right size to fit over the inside edges of the tank cover. I used a heat gun to soften it up and then fitted it while it was still warm. Had to cut the inside edges a bit to fit the tight bends. It's still there after two years. Holding up well. And if the tank cover is so far forward that the cover is coming loose while riding there is some adjustment. The flange that the screw goes into can be pivoted a bit. If you look on either side under the plastic you will see two bolts on either side that hold that bracket in place and secures the gas tank neck. Those four bolts can be loosened and the bracket can be rotated a bit. That moves the screw flange back and forth enough to pull the cover back a bit and bring that tab further into the grommet. Something to look at anyway.
  20. Snaggletooth
    A man after my own heart! What kind of rubber you running on yours? I found my Venoms are fine on cold pavement and fresh snow but pretty much suck on hardpack. Only went around the block a couple of times but it was interesting. Gives the neighbors something to gossip about anyway. LOL!!!
  21. Snaggletooth
    Hey! Glad you're back! You didn't mention if all that hardware they hung on ya was chrome of if you got stuck with powdercoat. Polished stainless steel at the very least. Heal well and heal fast Annie!
  22. Snaggletooth
    Anybody come forward with info on the semi that caused that? I spent 13 years in transportation safety for the trucking industry and the company that owns the semi can be held liable for all damages, injuries and incurred costs caused by the ice sheet sliding off. Don't let anybody give you the "Act of God" story. Won't stand up in a courtroom. In the eyes of the law, at least around here, it's no different than a wheel coming off a truck and causing damage. Glad you both are ok and your are lucky as you can be. Buy a handlfull of lottery tickets NOW before it wears off. Good luck on getting rolling again. I know the frustration. Check out the Jokes and Humor section for my adventure. (Lincoln for Sale) The ice was on the bottom in my case but the pucker factor is about the came either way. I'm going to change my BVDs to Fruit of the Loom. I don't care for the way Hanes taste. Take care. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    The mods made to the fairing are SWEET!!!!!!!! Most excellent work all around! A VR SS!!! Tell him to get over being shy......he's gonna be talking to people about this one.
  24. Snaggletooth
    I've been using the Wally World full cover for 3 years. I keep mine with me all the time as I ride every day and park the bike outside while at work in all weather. It's NOT totally water proof but does a great job in all but the heaviest rains. It has held up very well. I ordered one off eBay last night. like the one listed in the other post as it is a half cover. All I really need for my daily stuff. Just want to protect the electronics, and cover the rear trunk and keep the seat try as I have a fitted lamb skin cover on it. Save a little room in the side bag and still protect the important stuff As stated, you don't need to spend big bucks to get the best cover unless you plan on storing the bike out side ALL the time. There have been some listing on eBay from China for covers at .99 cents and a few bucks shipping. A couple of friends bought these and they seem to be real close in quality to what Wally World is selling. Go figure. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Hey Chuck. I got to say you seem to be having quite an adventure on your trip. Just another day on the road eh? If you get to the point where you need to get a thermo into the bike NAPA has a replacement that is an excellent match. NAPA #THM 156. Been running one in my '84 for two years and it does great. It's a 180. About $8.00 if I remember right. I've never been a big supporter of running without a thermo as the engine needs that to keep the temps at the correct running range. As you get back to cooler temps the bike will not even come close to heating up. A radiator cover will help but be hard to maintain a good range. But some times ya do what ya gotta do to keep rolling. Been there myself. Good luck on your trip and ride safe.
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