Snaggletooth

Skydoc-17 sells the blockoff plates as you probably know for when you remove the antidives. Or save the money and just disconnect them behind the headlight. You can just cap off the air lines off off the forks or the compressor or remove it also. I like 10wt oil for the front forks but some go to 5wt. If you want the 5wt just use cheap Jack oil or even tyranny fluid. Cheaper if you change your mind. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Just another Friday night around here. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Roy. You're looking for one for your '90 model? From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Damn Kevin. Those pics are just hard to look at. What a shame. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Missed by the tornados and no snow here. Did get some crazy rain and high winds and quarter sized hail just east of me. Had to go out and dig out the debris from the culverts under the driveway Friday morning. Had to wait until late afternoon until the road dried off and the road crew got the washed out spots graded back to normal. Crazy light show with the rain Thursday night. So much lighting activity i didn't need a flashlight outside. Usually i cant see my hand in front of my face out here. First time i had my full frog toggs on without being on the bike. Been a dry summer here. Surrounded by brown corn and dieing soybeens. Little late for the moisture. But no damage other than small blown down branches and the fire pit was blown clean. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

That's where i don't get the possibility of the drain on the system. If the switch had fully retracted back to correct position allowing the headlight to come back on, which it did, where would the drain occur? OK. Other than the engine dieseling at very low rpm and the headlight was the only drain. Having Danos engage mod IM having trouble picturing it NOT disengaging. The bike seemed fine today. Had a full charge at startup and went to 14.3 as soon as it got to 2,000 rpm as always. Ran like it always does. Just one of those weird things i guess. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

SS lines make a Huge difference in the feel. The first line i changed was the right front. Swapped line, bled it out and grabbed the lever. I thought something was wrong. Lever barely moved. I got used to the hard feel real easy. Much better control. You'll like them. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

I started using an epoxy sealer from Caswell a few years back. Did my '84 and several other tanks since then. Won't use any other product now. Tough stuff. Hard as nails. Easy to use. You still need to bust up and remove as much rust as you can the surface does not have to be perfectly clean. Fills in pits and weakened seams great. Over three years now and still looks like a Thermos bottle. Filters never have a trace in them. Worth looking into. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

OK. I noticed in your other thread you installed new speed bleeder while changing lines. From my experience speed bleeders are a pita with dry lines and trying to bleed the system. The valves in them work great with fluid in them but not very well with only air. The don't check the reverse flow at all with no fluid. About the same effect as an open bleeder. Try popping the old bleeder back in or open and close the speed bleeder like a regular bleeder valve. Other than that fresh lines are almost always a pita to get filled and functional. Hope you make your ride. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

I hope it was a small Yammy. Ad said 135CCA. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Still..... positive cable was removed. That should have shut it down. And i had changed plugs about a month ago. Same as always. Nice tan on all four. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

I've had problems with the start button in the past so its a habit to make sure its fully returned to all the way out. Even more so since IM doing so many miles now on lime rock and gravel roads these days. Dust out here sucks. The headlights were on right after starting IM sure as i was in front of the bike while gearing up and it was not light yet. Ill give it a cleaning today anyway and i do have a spare complete control switch if it acts up again. I had a starter stay engaged once in a catapillar engine. The results of that were catastrophic. The engage systems are very different so i wouldn't expect the same results. Just really an odd event. Be keeping an eye on it. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

The point Jeff was making was a stock OEM r/r will work fine with the HO stator. But will not show any increase over stock output. I went with a Buckeye Performance Stator which is only an increase of less than 20% or so. By changing to a Shindengen Mosfet R/R i was able to take advantage of that 20% increase. It all works together. You limit one you limit both. 20% ain't much. You need to use all you can get on these old bikes. IM really happy with the combination now. Rock steady charge rate with the load i put on it. Been a few years with no problems now. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Grab a cup of Joe guys. This one drags out a bit. OK. Seen some odd stuff in the last few years with my '84 but this had me scratching my head. The only thought i could come up with was the motor may have actually been running backwards for a bit. I stopped at a store out of town yesterday and when i got back to the bike i was standing next to the bike getting into my gear. Turned the key on and checked the volt meter as usual and had 12.9 showing as always. Hit the button and went about getting my gear on. Now remember I'm deaf so Im not hearing anything. I knew the bike had started by the way the grip felt. Got geared up and threw the leg over. Didn't feel right. Snapped the throttle and no response but feel the engine vibratation a little bit. Checked the tach and it wasn't showing the expected 900 or so. Actually it was only showing a rhythmic blip on the needle up go about 100 or so. No throttle response. No change in the blip. No nothing. I could feel the motor "running" but oddly. Hit the kill switch. Nothing changed. Turned off the key. Nothing changed. Checked the voltmeter and it was down to 12.4. Motor still turning with key and switch off. Popped the false cover and took a quick read with the multimeter and got same reading as voltmeter. Now down to 12.1. Pulled the battery cable off and it kept running. I finally had to drop it on gear and kill it off the clutch. After killing the bike and hooking the cable back up i only showed 12 volts off meters. Let it sit for about a half hour while i checked connections and wires. I expected some increase in the volt reading as i would normally get off my AGM. Volts did not change. I was able to start the bike normally after getting it back together. Fired right up even with the 11.8 volts on the voltmeter. When the motor started and came.up to 2,000 rpm i only got a 12.6 volt reading. Figured as i was 60 miles from my place I'd better head back and hope for the best. During the next hour of highway speeds the charge reading slowly increased back to normal. 14.3. By the time i got home and shut the bike off the battery showed static at 13.01 . This morning the cold battery read as always at 12.9 again. Bike fired fight up and charge read at normal. 14.3. So i can't explain it more than it like the motor was dieseling when it happened. But i can't explain the voltage drain... Im open to thoughts on this on. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

CLASS air controller only works from the accessory position. Cannot be used from the run position. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

I think i used 3/8 from Napa when i replaced all mine. Works fine. New fuel filter will be needed and check the tank for rust particles. The OEM lines have a couple moulder bends. But you can make that work just fine. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Looks like ya grabbed a good one Kevin. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Never mind. Figured it out. Not even close. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Jack. IM not at a computer right now to check numbers but are the '99's the same as MKI manifolds? If so i can fix ya up. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Used Plexus on both windscreen and body works for years. When the price of Plexus started getting nuts i changed to Pledge. Can't say i can see any difference between the two. Both help keep the bike cleaner and repel water about the same. No harm seen to paint, plastic or windscreen. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Other way around. They are open until the use of the brakes activate the solenoids and they close down to restrict the flow of fork oil to control the forks compression, reducing the dive action. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Marriage was the most expensive way I ever got my laundry done for free. What? Wait! I just realized how screwed up my marriage was. Lol From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Yep. Good advice. I've had my card blocked after making three gas purchases in less than 24 hours. Its a hassle to get shut off on the road. Being deaf makes it more interesting as what do they tell you to do? "Call This Number". Not always an easy task to do. So a little more planning ahead is required to keep in motion. On a LD run planning is paramount. From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

I wont presume to speak for others but many of us have been on this site for a long time. In that time there have been a few changes, some hardly noticed, but mostly as Don saw a need or by popular request. I think the site has been great as it developed and always remained easy to navigate and has a familiar feel after these last few years. So for me, I'd like to see it remain as it is. Newer don't always mean better in my eyes. We have a custom built site here. Not many others like it out there. :thumbup: Mike From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.

Hang in there buddy. It all comes around. Been married and divorced twice myself. Got the science of it figured out. Got married the first time pretty young and it didnt last long. Waited 20 years to get married again. That lasted twice as long as the first one. So following the basics of math i need to wait 40 years to get married again. So in another 19 years ill be back on the market. Probably be dead by then. Whew. My figures may have saved my butt on this one. LOL. But take care and hang in there. I know what you're dealing with. Mike From my Droid wherever I may happen to be at any given moment.