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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    "MAD AS A HATTER" Meaning Completely mad. This is now commonly understood to mean crazy, although the original meaning is unclear and may have meant annoyed. Origin Mercury used to be used in the making of hats. This was known to have affected the nervous systems of hatters, causing them to tremble and appear insane. A neurotoxicologist correspondent informs me that "Mercury exposure can cause aggressiveness, mood swings, and anti-social behaviour.", so that derivation is certainly plausible - although there's only that circumstantial evidence to support it. The use of mercury compounds in 19th century hat making and the resulting effects are well-established - mercury poisoning is still known today as 'Mad Hatter's disease'. That could be enough to convince us that this is the source of the phrase. The circumstantial evidence is rather against the millinery origin though and, beyond the fact that hatters often suffered trembling fits, there's little to link hat making to the coining of 'as mad as a hatter'. Might explain a lot of behavior around here.
  2. Snaggletooth
    Here ya go and PM sent also. By cutting out a section from the center of the box you could shorten the height by quite a bit making room for the TCI and fuse panel without cramping any thing. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    That might have been me Gary. A friend from the other site came up with an adaptor plate the laid flat on the lip inside of the airbox and then a flat auto filter was fitted to the hole in that. That would probably work well for what you want to do. Let me see if I can find the info I got from him and I'll get back to ya. Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    PM sent
  5. Snaggletooth
    It's your lucky day. Just happen to have mine on the bench tonight. Don't ask why. Like I said "ON" to drain and bypass the thermo as in the 1st pic. "OFF" is the normal running position in the 2nd pic. Both are set at the 2 o'clock position and lock in with the detent. Is your radiator and over flow tank full? If the system is low on coolant you will not get a reading on the gauge. When the motor is cold you can open the radiator cap and set the drain to "ON" and start the motor. If the water pump is working correctly you will see rapid flow of coolant moving through the core. Remember .....the thermo is bypassed at the this setting. In a crunch......if you would ever over heat because the thermo is stuck shut, changing the setting to "ON" will get you home or until you can change the thermo for a new one. With the drain set at "OFF" you won't see that until motor is warmer up and the thermo opens up. Take my word for it......check it cold. LOL! And don't rev the motor with the cap off. You'll be changing your shoes. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    The run position will be "OFF" at 2'oclock. To drain the system and bypass the thermo it needs to be set with the "ON" at the 2 o'clock mark. You should feel the detent click in when it hits the right spot.
  7. Snaggletooth
    Rick...... Been through this myself. First of all, if you had the carbs apart did you use an assembly plate when you put them back together to make sure they were all flat and in line? These carbs will play havoc with your brain if they are not on axis. Next.....yes.....the carb sync is way off whack. I thought I had mine right the first time and had the same problem. Once I figured out what was going on I backed every thing off, did a bench top sync off the bike and started over. Once I did the bench top sync the rest came close and was able to dial them in. No problems since. Check them in the spring and mid summer for a tweak if needed. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Solve the problem rather than trying to get around it. Seal the inside of the tank. http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm This stuff is easy to apply, will outlast latex coatings and a much harder finish. I did mine a year ago and not so much as a particle in the filters anymore. No regrets. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    The thing about electric brakes is that they are ON or OFF. That would make me nervous on wet or rough roads. I'd rather go without myself.
  10. Snaggletooth
    As the '83 had problems with the frame cracking........wouldn't that cause some issues with the handling?
  11. Snaggletooth
    Yeah....what he said! That lil bubble at the connection to the master can make ya nuts!
  12. Snaggletooth
    Still see a few of them rolling around here. Looking good doing it. Now this is comparing apples to oranges but I have a 1995 Lincoln Towncar with the 4.6. Im getting about 18mpg in town and it jumps right up to 26 on the highway. It's only got 175,000 on it now and giving me no problems.
  13. Snaggletooth
    Nebraska just got that passed a while back. Been putting up signs all over. Doesn't seem to help.
  14. Snaggletooth
    Bought a 1995 Lincoln Towncar SS a few years back for $900.00 bucks. Excellent condition! Everything worked and no issues all this time. It had been owned by a doctor that bought it new in GA then moved to TX with it so no rust at all. He moved up here that year and had taken it to the Lincoln dealer for a minor repair and he felt like they had rolled him over a barrel so he listed it for the cost of the repair, $900.00 and bought a Caddy. The deal with me was my aging Taurus had just blown a head gasket that day and needed other major repairs as well. I sat down to check Craigslist and he had just listed the car that evening. Called him to make sure the price was right and made an appointment to see the car the next morning first thing........expecting to be badly disappointed. Saw the car, drove the car, bought the car. No regrets since. So my new approach to buying used cars is find a really, really pissed off doctor. LOL!
  15. Snaggletooth
    It does the job......no more soggy lambskin. Might have to check the Condoms myself. Hate being caught without protection. But I'm thinking how bad it might freak out a girlfriend when I whip out one of those! They might think I'm braggin'!!!!
  16. Snaggletooth
    This is the same as what I bought. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-K1200-R1200-R1150-R1100-UltraGard-Half-Cover_W0QQitemZ300412356718QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45f1f8c86e Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    There have been a bunch of listings on eBay lately for a half cover. It's just a shorter version of the full that I use for the winter storage. It covers the front fairing and windscreen, seat, rear trunk and the tops of the saddlebags. Straps on the sides to tie it down. Fits the 1st gen ok, no complaints, but from the cut of it it would fit the second gen better I do think. It looks to be better quality than the Wally World one that I have in the full, and I bought the half off eBay for $24.95. It was marked down from $29.95. I jist wanted something to cover my electronics and the lambskin seat cover during the day while I was at work. Does the job. I'm happy with it. If I see any listings later when I check eBay I'll post them here. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    Hey Dave, Glad ya got it worked out. Even better the SO is happy. You know what that means....Everybodies Happy. Don't hit me Doreen. Now just tie her in with a bungie and she can take nice long naps back there. I'm glad they went to good use. Later Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Looking good here.......Oh dang! Something just crawled outta my 'puter!
  20. Snaggletooth
    Got mine from Buckeye Performance. http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/p01.htm
  21. Snaggletooth
    That scooters got nuttin on this guys. Now this is a guy I would love to sit down and have some beers with. http://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/ Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    The cause of a lot of this is the rear brake master being over filled with fluid. As it heats up it expands and has no where to go other than the brake lines causing the brakes to drag. Some lock up. As the proportioning valve is 30/70 (30 rear / 70 front) you would feel it quite a bit in the front brake. Remove some fluid from the rear master and see it that helps. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    The LED bulbs are great. Only the two upper left lights were installed in this pic. For a few bucks you can change a lot of lights over. I've done 28 on my bike already. The voltmeter barely drops now when I kick 'em on. Enjoy Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    The reason you won that was I handcuffed myself to the toilet tonight. LOL! Well almost anyway.. Good win though. I already have the rear light bar but wanted to replace the curved chrome side panels and needed the "L" brackets for the rear supports and of course I wanted the trailer hitch ( but alas, much like yourself...no trailer yet) Soooo.......I kept telling myself somebody else has put a HUGE maximum bid on it and there was no way I was going to get it for low bucks. Now before you mount it up get ahold of www.superbrightleds.com and order (8) of the WLED-R5 BULBS. ($2.99 each) and replace those 194's. Great improvement and less drain on the charging system. So congrats on a great buy. I really thought that would go in the $300 to $400 range with everything listed. Enjoy! Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Hey Dan......yep I posted the comment on Sea Foam when MidlifeVenture mentioned his issue with the vent lines under the bike. Figured he had a needle sticking. Nuttin' to do with the gas grade in the thread.
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