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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    Oh Joe.......You called them "Frankenstein"! Should have said Spice Girls or Goo Goo Dolls. Or God forbid......Lady Gaga! She would have probably jumped on that. Kids today. Geesh.
  2. Snaggletooth
    Curtis, Take a look at the same place. Left sidebar, top, User CP. Open that then at the bottom of the sidebar you will see Paid Subscriptions. Open that and the info bar will show your expire date. I don't remember if we get a notice or not. I woke up one morning and found I was "Expired". Checked the obits and I wasn't there so I paid my $12 and went back to bed.
  3. Snaggletooth
    From what I've read the problem seems to mainfest itself around 60,000 miles give or take depending on the riders style and how hard the bike has been ridden. Now......I'm no techy when it comes to the trannies on these bikes but maybe someone can chime in here but doesn't the same thrust washer come into play when in 5th gear. If so probably not to the same extent as a load in second gear but none the less. If I'm correct. Might be wrong.......happened before a couple of times. LOL! I'm watching my '84 to. It's running around 53,000 now and I'm trying to behave myself but dang.......the old girl is running good this year.
  4. Snaggletooth
    Same stuff I put in mine three years ago. Should do the trick. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Ok, I'll try to help here. #4 Oil seals for sure. #5 Metal slider.....if you have a lot of miles the slider is a must. If any side play is evident I'd replace them. You might be able to get by. Cheap insurance to replace them while you are in there. They hold the upper tube to center and align it with the seals. #6 Dust cover. Probably get by reusing the old ones unless they are damaged. The only purpose is to wipe the upper tube and keep grit from getting to the seal. # 25 Washer. Yep. #26 Wave washer. Need (4) Yep. The old ones will be crushed and do not reuse them. If you are have pressure loss on the C.L.A.S.S. system o-rings #80 would be good. If no loss reuse them. There is a groove on the top of the upper fork for the retaining spring clip so you will need to wrap the area with electrcial tape to protect the o-rings when reinstalling.
  6. Snaggletooth
    Touch base with Rick at Buckeye Performance. I got everything I needed there (except the fork brace) for about $125.00. Make sure to use the OEM fork seals! There have been a lot of problems with aftermarket seals that are incorrect specs for size. http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/ Check the classified here for Condors listing for a brace that he had made. A lot of us bought them a while back and they do the same job at the high dollar ones out there for a lot less money. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2158&title=first-generaltion-fork-brace&cat=6 When I bought my bike the front end was a mess. Wobble, bottom out on any bump, dive until it hit when I pulled the front brake and squirt oil every chance it got. Did the full rebuild, Progressives, CondorBrace and new Venom X's. Ended up disconnecting the anti dives as with the new springs.........well it just didn't dive anymore. Any money you spend on suspension and tires is an investment in your own safety. You wanna keep that rubber glued to the ground. Let's just say I'm not all that uh, gentle of a rider. LOL! I like to know that the front wheel is going where I want it to. Everytime. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Yeppers........Progressives and a heavier fork brace and you're golden.
  8. Snaggletooth
    I've got approx 15,000 on both the front and rear Avons now. I run 42 in the front also and 48 in the rear. From the looks of it I'm going to get a lot more miles out of both ends. No cracking, cupping or uneven wear showing on either tire. I ride solo most the time.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Have you tried to fit a Carbon One adaptor on it yet? Just sayin' ya know......
  10. Snaggletooth
    Thanks for the heads up Jean. Keep that critter in line and watch him close. Use a fryin' pan if you need to. I'm sure the doc ( the actual medical one) will prescribe one, perhaps cast iron, if needed. Make sure Earl follows up with the Doc orders. Thoughts are with you guys and please keep us posted on how he is doing. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    This should help ya out. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19271 And that is only the first installment of your Venture Education. Hang around and join up. There is a lot to learn on this site. And where to get them: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42124 But ya got to be a member to get that price. (which may have gone up a bit by now) Hey! What's $12.00 bucks for help like this? Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    An old friend of mine had the same problem with his enclosed trailer. He came up with a solution that worked real slick. He bought an electric trailer jack that powered off of his van power cord. I forget what it cost but I think it was around $100.00. He made a remote control cord long enough that ran to the back of the trailer that plugged into where the switch had been on the jack with a two way toggle on the remote box. He would hook the trailer to the hitch on the van and raise the jack up to the point where the trailer was tipping back, leveling off the ramp. He could pull the bike onto the ramp, into the trailer and into the chock and lower the trailer back down without getting off the bike. One man operation, safe and no sweat. That electric jack was tough to. We raised the back of the van once to change a flat tire.
  13. Snaggletooth
    Loctite 2 part epoxy for plastics does a great job of bonding on the fairings. Make sure the package states hard plastics or ABS when you buy no matter what brand. I'd say for the best repair you are going to have to pull the fairing. Sand it down, wipe it with alcohol and give it a thick coat. Make sure you allow plenty of time to cure for the best bond. Run masking tape on the outside to hold it together and keep any epoxy from running through the crack. As far as the popping at the pipe joint there is a drain hole in the stock pipes. Any popping of the exhaust will be better, or gone after a sync. 4o mpg ain't too bad to start but you can get it up there with some tinkering. As stated the shim kit from Skydoc_17 seems to be doing the trick. I'm going to try it myself. These tanks hold 5.3 gallons total. If you are getting 40 mpg you should be hitting about 140 miles before the warning light comes on and you lose that last bar on the gauge. At that point it should take about 3.5-3.6 gallons to top it back up. A lot of the guys just leave the petcock set for reserve rather than switching back and forth. The petcocks do get stiff with age and tend to leak when you turn them. With the fuel pump on the bike you're not going to need to worry about flooding the carbs like with a gravity feed system.
  14. Snaggletooth
    It was years back and I was crossing Missouri when I noticed what appeared to be small circus setting up in a field. At first glance I knew I had to pull over and watch. There was typical farmers "field car" pretty much sunk up to its door handles. Beyond that and attached by chains was a 4X4 pickup sunk to its axles. Attached to that was a rear drive w/duals Massey tractor sunk up to its belly. As I watched a group of muddied and frustrated looking fellas were hooking up a 4X4 tractor with duals all around. I remember the series of thoughts I had watching that. Is this the evolution of farming? Are they building "Farmhenge"? They aren't going to try to pull them out all at the same time are they? And of course......There has to be a better way to make a living! I had to leave my front row seat when a Trooper rolled up and a told me I couldn't park there. We talked for a bit and he said it happens all the time. I noticed he was lingering leaning against his fender as I pulled away so I figured he was interested in the results of the next attempt himself. It all seemed like a lot of work to me.
  15. Snaggletooth
    I had the stock stator and R/R a few years back and ran into some odd charging problems, mostly over charging and the voltage ramping up and down severly. The issue was mainly the R/R. That got replaced and the charging leveled out. But with the stock headlight and two 55w drivers and a couple of handfuls for running lights I could barely hold 12.2 volts at an idle. Then hit the brakes with the two 1157's and it would drop below 11.9. (Hope the cooling fan wouldn't kick in at that point) I checked the stator and found one winding was well below specs. I replaced it with the upgrade from Buckeye performance. (Which is actully less output for a 1st gen than a 2nd gen) Once that was in the charging picked right up. Today...with the H9 headlights at 65w, the two halogen drivers at 55w each and eliminating all the 194 bulbs and converting them to LEDs I can idle the bike WITH the brakes on and still show 13.2. When above 2,000 rpm I'm reading with all the lights lit up 13.9. Turn off the drivers and it runs up to 14.2 - 14.4 range. The upgrade stator helps a bunch. If the charging system is not holding better than the standing battery charge you will be having problems down the road. I use a DEKA AGM which is a 12.8 volt battery so I need to see better than 12.8 going back into it at the worst of times to know it's getting charged.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Well put Jack. That's just it. Tightening the shoulder bolt is just and only that. It does not tighten anything else.
  17. Snaggletooth
    Nice fix Gary. That eliminates the weakest spot on the whole assembly. Drilling out the threaded backside of the flange would leave about the same material as on the smooth bore side so not much loss. Back to the shop! At least it's the cheapest fix I've had for a while.......so far. Thanks Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    No rust on that puppy! Only two years old and kept it greased to avoid rust and binding. It's the stock OEM bolt and it's hardened. The bolt I found at the hardware store was not. I like what Dingy came up with. That eliminates the relief cut on the bolt altogether which as Flyinfool said, a designed in weak spot. Dingys fix: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=48342
  19. Snaggletooth
    Those Progressives may seem a little harsh when you first ride it. The stockers in mine were shot and I did the rebuild on the forks and installed the new springs. They raised the front quite a bit and had no more problems with the front end diving and bottoming out. I run mine with no pressure at all on the front solo. Maybe five pounds double up with gear. But they seemed awful stiff for a while. After about a 1,000 miles they felt like they broke in and rode a lot smoother. Add on an upgrade fork brace and the front end will be as good as it can get.
  20. Snaggletooth
    Hey Poppa Bear. It's kind of an engineering problem really. The bolt of course is a shoulder bolt. The front (outer side) of the kick stand is smooth bore and the rear is threaded to receive the threaded bolt. There is a nut on the back side of the stand to secure the bolt. When the bike was new they were probably close to a tolerance fit. But with time and wear with the kick stand rotation and vibrating the inner surface of the kick stand wears as well as the shoulder surface of the bolt itself. Now you have pressure on the insides of the flange itself also. As was discussed a couple of years ago many found the bolt to be a bit loose. That added to the wear on the smooth bore on the outside flange, causing it to take on an oval shape. And then there is some wear on the mounting tab that is welded onto the frame of the bike. With all that working against each other the pressure on the bolt shoulder increases and the threaded section will snap off. What then happens the outer flange can be, as in the pic, the only thing supporting the weight of the bike and will spread apart. I was lucky enough the flange didn't snap off completly. I did find a shoulder bolt at the hardware store a couple of years ago. It was the correct thread and long enough but the shoulder was a bit smaller in diameter. I tried to make a bushing out of stock that would tighten the fit. With the hole in the flange wallowed out of shape it wouldn't fit right. The idea of drilling out the flange didn't seem like a good idea as that would remove a lot of material from the kick stand itself and weaken it. So no matter the condition of the bolt, used or new, the worn outer flange will not support the shoulder properly and there again you have side pressure on the bolt shoulder causing it to break. The only thing I can see is having the hole built up inside and rebored to fit a new bolt. I have no idea if anyone has had any luck with that. I might have a buddy of mine try a couple of things with a welder and see how strong the kick stand can be made and try to rebore the hole to line up with the threads. Another experiment to try. BTW the part number for the bolt is: 90109-104E6-00
  21. Snaggletooth
    I know we talked about this a couple of years ago and I checked mine then and put in a new shoulder bolt......and checked it again a year ago. But did I check it this year? Well......er ......no. So today I'm leaving work and I'm out in front of the store. I had to run back in for a second so I pull the bike up by the front walk and threw down the kick stand, leaned the bike over on it and was lifting my leg up over the back rest and I felt her start to drop. Like a rock. I've got the right leg still in the air and the left foot is sliding away. I'm a big fella at 6' 3" and 285 but the bike had me at the disadvantage at that point. I got my right leg back down on the far side and got my left foot to stop skidding and got the bike stopped from going over any farther. So there I am.....holding up the great beast at a rather difficult angle......can't tell if I'm at a stopping point or if I let her back to the left if she will keep going. Hummmm....why am I sweating like this? So there was a fella that saw me wrestling the bike and he came running over. Nice guy, and thank you sir for the offer, but he's all of 5'5" and a 150 lbs if that. He asked what he could do to help. Me: "Look for the pink thing" Him: "What's it look like?" Me: "Pink....maybe a little purple by now" Him: "What's it shaped like?" Me: "Kinda round.......a little fussy looking" Him: "Where would it be?" Me: "Probably by my left boot" Him: "Did it fall off the bike?" Me: "No sir.....it may have fallen off me!" Then it hit him......and at that point he was worthless. Couldn't quit laughing. But he was able to give me a boost back up and got her balanced again and able to get off and get her on the center stand. Yep....broken shoulder bolt and the flange was spread open. I was prepared. I had an extra kick stand at home. A spare part I never thought I would need. Yeah...right. Now I don't know how many of you guys have tried to get off one of these things without using the kick stand and have a back rest to boot.....but it's a bit probmatic. So take a minute to take a look at that bolt and save yourself the conversation I had to have with a complete stranger. I'm betting he will remember the big guy in the leather jacket and dark shapes that sounded like a choir boy. Check all your nuts while you're at it. I've got mine on ice now. If I make it back to tenor by tonigiht I'll be happy.
  22. Snaggletooth
    Try driving in a Torx bit. I've had pretty good luck with that approach on a few of the damaged hex head. Drive a bit in and then use a hand impact to work it out. I like the hand impact as it drives the bit into the bolt as you hit it. Helps hold the bite.
  23. Snaggletooth
    Hey 4gasem... The four lines that run from the 90 degree elbows on the tops of the carbs (overflows) run straight back over the heat shield, if it's still on the bike, to a retainer that runs the width of the frame just behind the motor. If you look from the left side with the cover off you will see it. It is nothing more than a heavy wire frame that holds the four overflow lines and the fuel feed line in place. The lines then drop down in front of the inner fender to just below the frame. If they are install correctly you can see the bottoms of the lines and you should be able to tell which line comes from which carb in case you need to do a quick trouble check when the bike starts belching gas. Mine run from left to right, 1,2,3,4. If you are having overflow problems the lines are your safety net. You don't want gas bleeding onto the hot motor and pipes. Leaving them off would be a safety risk. Even with the lines on an overflowing carb can throw enough fuel onto the ground right in front of the rear wheel to make things interesting. My buddy behind me thought I was showing off as my rear end kept changing directions going away from the light. Pucker factor ........9! But from what has been said, it does sound like a needle is not seating at all. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Hey Karl. The thing to ask the guy doing the forks for a $100 buck is does that include parts. I got about the same price quote around here but it was labor only. I ended up doing my own and I spent about $125.00 on the parts alone. I bought the Progressives, fork bushings, wave washers, seals and dust boots. And then fork oil was about $10.00 a bottle (needed 2) on top of that. If nothing else make sure you use OEM fork seals. There are a lot of aftermarket seals that are not correct on fit and it just causes more problems. Touch base with Rick at Buckeye Performance. He's where I got my stuff from. http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/ Maybe Skydoc_17 (Earl) can help you out to. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    When you set up your account you don't even need to keep a balance on PayPal. You can set it up to pay directly from a credit card. Much faster and smoother and nobody but PP sees your info. All the seller knows is he got paid. If you keep a balance a seperate account is a good idea, but like the guys said, using a credit card to pay is adding another layer of protection to what PP offers. Also buy the PP security key. It's $5.00 and adds another layer of protection to anyone trying to get into your account. Had mine for a few years now and don't worry about it anymore. It's like a garage door opener. Everytime you use it it rolls a new set of security numbers into play. Check out the security section on the PP site. Worth the $5.00 anyway.
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