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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    Nice looking bike. Thanks for the pic. Brings back some fun memories. That puppy was a beast back then.
  2. Snaggletooth
    Ok......digging back into what I remember on trailer lights under D.O.T. regs.......any light installed on a trailer must be operational at all times, as in 1/2 hour after sunset anyway. (If an LEO is having a bad day they can ticket you for a nonoperational light, even if there are dozen more in view.) All trailer lights should be red only, no amber required as on the front of a motor vehicle. Running and/or marker lights must operate independently of the brake lights. Brake lights can be on/off function only if there are running light on the back of the trailer in working order and indicate the width of the trailer. Most trailers run the dual function running/brake lights installed at the widest point. Some of the stuff from 13 years in transportion safety stuck anyway.
  3. Snaggletooth
    Same reason we park in the driveway and drive on the parkway I suppose.
  4. Snaggletooth
    I hear ya Bob. Most my short trips in the past couple of years have been within towing distance of home. Finally getting the bike to a point where I have complete faith in it, or my ability to make repairs on the side of the road, is making the longer trips more enjoyable. No worries! Been kind of delaying my departure this morning. Watching the rain in ALL directions. The Southern trip looks like I would hit rain and stay in it all day today and tomorrow. I don't mind riding in the rain at all but don't want to spend an entire day or two doing it. But I hit my boots with another coat of mink oil and the rain gear and gloves are in the top of the trunk bag so what ever happens.......I'm still out of here for the day. The bike could use a little presoak anyway. I was admiring my bug collection this morning. Pretty impressive. Found a few feathers in the lower cowl intake to. And there was the remains of that Yellowjacket in the intake on my helmet. Glad that one got strained out before going in.! LOL! But I'm going somewhere............
  5. Snaggletooth
    Get the bike up on the centerstand and then get down low on the right side of the bike. You will see a sight glass in the engine case just above the frame and behind the waterpump housing. There are two marks on the glass housing. One set about 1/4 of the way up and the other is about 3/4 of the way up. The oil level should be right in between them. Any higher and the bike will suck oil into the air box. The oil in the crankcase serves the motor, tranny and clutch.
  6. Snaggletooth
    Well, I got off work for a week. Finally! Kind of short notice so I had made no plans. Hard to get loose sometimes when you are the only one that does what you do. I got to get somebody trained! But I woke up yesterday morning at the usual time, 2:30 am, and couldn't get back to sleep. So I took a look at the weather and decided.......NORTH! Strapped the trunk bag on and threw in a few tools JIC and was out the door by 4:30. A bit cool at 39 degrees and cloudy all day but warmed up into the 60's later on. The old girl never gave me a lick of trouble and made the ride most enjoyable. Headed out of Omaha on back roads and stayed that way all day. Wandered through dozens of small towns and three states. Ended up in Yankton, S.D. The strange part was I only saw two other bikes in the entire trip. But then again I was on roads where I didn't even see a car for a half hour at a time. Perfect!! Got back to Omaha late last night and slept like a lamb. Surprised me! I only covered 570 miles. Woke up this morning (a little later than yesterday) and checked the weather again. Today......WEST!! A somewhat shorter trip, only 350 miles today but the weather was warmer and sunny all day. Tomorrow......I'm thinking.......South? I like Arkansas. Maybe spend the night by a lake on this one. Better pack some extra stuff. Lord I love this bike. Even more....I love the effect of the needle mod. Dang. Later Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Great news for sure. Glad to hear it. Heal fast Earl! Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Oh Joe.......You called them "Frankenstein"! Should have said Spice Girls or Goo Goo Dolls. Or God forbid......Lady Gaga! She would have probably jumped on that. Kids today. Geesh.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Curtis, Take a look at the same place. Left sidebar, top, User CP. Open that then at the bottom of the sidebar you will see Paid Subscriptions. Open that and the info bar will show your expire date. I don't remember if we get a notice or not. I woke up one morning and found I was "Expired". Checked the obits and I wasn't there so I paid my $12 and went back to bed.
  10. Snaggletooth
    From what I've read the problem seems to mainfest itself around 60,000 miles give or take depending on the riders style and how hard the bike has been ridden. Now......I'm no techy when it comes to the trannies on these bikes but maybe someone can chime in here but doesn't the same thrust washer come into play when in 5th gear. If so probably not to the same extent as a load in second gear but none the less. If I'm correct. Might be wrong.......happened before a couple of times. LOL! I'm watching my '84 to. It's running around 53,000 now and I'm trying to behave myself but dang.......the old girl is running good this year.
  11. Snaggletooth
    Same stuff I put in mine three years ago. Should do the trick. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    Ok, I'll try to help here. #4 Oil seals for sure. #5 Metal slider.....if you have a lot of miles the slider is a must. If any side play is evident I'd replace them. You might be able to get by. Cheap insurance to replace them while you are in there. They hold the upper tube to center and align it with the seals. #6 Dust cover. Probably get by reusing the old ones unless they are damaged. The only purpose is to wipe the upper tube and keep grit from getting to the seal. # 25 Washer. Yep. #26 Wave washer. Need (4) Yep. The old ones will be crushed and do not reuse them. If you are have pressure loss on the C.L.A.S.S. system o-rings #80 would be good. If no loss reuse them. There is a groove on the top of the upper fork for the retaining spring clip so you will need to wrap the area with electrcial tape to protect the o-rings when reinstalling.
  13. Snaggletooth
    Touch base with Rick at Buckeye Performance. I got everything I needed there (except the fork brace) for about $125.00. Make sure to use the OEM fork seals! There have been a lot of problems with aftermarket seals that are incorrect specs for size. http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/ Check the classified here for Condors listing for a brace that he had made. A lot of us bought them a while back and they do the same job at the high dollar ones out there for a lot less money. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2158&title=first-generaltion-fork-brace&cat=6 When I bought my bike the front end was a mess. Wobble, bottom out on any bump, dive until it hit when I pulled the front brake and squirt oil every chance it got. Did the full rebuild, Progressives, CondorBrace and new Venom X's. Ended up disconnecting the anti dives as with the new springs.........well it just didn't dive anymore. Any money you spend on suspension and tires is an investment in your own safety. You wanna keep that rubber glued to the ground. Let's just say I'm not all that uh, gentle of a rider. LOL! I like to know that the front wheel is going where I want it to. Everytime. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Yeppers........Progressives and a heavier fork brace and you're golden.
  15. Snaggletooth
    I've got approx 15,000 on both the front and rear Avons now. I run 42 in the front also and 48 in the rear. From the looks of it I'm going to get a lot more miles out of both ends. No cracking, cupping or uneven wear showing on either tire. I ride solo most the time.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Have you tried to fit a Carbon One adaptor on it yet? Just sayin' ya know......
  17. Snaggletooth
    Thanks for the heads up Jean. Keep that critter in line and watch him close. Use a fryin' pan if you need to. I'm sure the doc ( the actual medical one) will prescribe one, perhaps cast iron, if needed. Make sure Earl follows up with the Doc orders. Thoughts are with you guys and please keep us posted on how he is doing. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    This should help ya out. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19271 And that is only the first installment of your Venture Education. Hang around and join up. There is a lot to learn on this site. And where to get them: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42124 But ya got to be a member to get that price. (which may have gone up a bit by now) Hey! What's $12.00 bucks for help like this? Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    An old friend of mine had the same problem with his enclosed trailer. He came up with a solution that worked real slick. He bought an electric trailer jack that powered off of his van power cord. I forget what it cost but I think it was around $100.00. He made a remote control cord long enough that ran to the back of the trailer that plugged into where the switch had been on the jack with a two way toggle on the remote box. He would hook the trailer to the hitch on the van and raise the jack up to the point where the trailer was tipping back, leveling off the ramp. He could pull the bike onto the ramp, into the trailer and into the chock and lower the trailer back down without getting off the bike. One man operation, safe and no sweat. That electric jack was tough to. We raised the back of the van once to change a flat tire.
  20. Snaggletooth
    Loctite 2 part epoxy for plastics does a great job of bonding on the fairings. Make sure the package states hard plastics or ABS when you buy no matter what brand. I'd say for the best repair you are going to have to pull the fairing. Sand it down, wipe it with alcohol and give it a thick coat. Make sure you allow plenty of time to cure for the best bond. Run masking tape on the outside to hold it together and keep any epoxy from running through the crack. As far as the popping at the pipe joint there is a drain hole in the stock pipes. Any popping of the exhaust will be better, or gone after a sync. 4o mpg ain't too bad to start but you can get it up there with some tinkering. As stated the shim kit from Skydoc_17 seems to be doing the trick. I'm going to try it myself. These tanks hold 5.3 gallons total. If you are getting 40 mpg you should be hitting about 140 miles before the warning light comes on and you lose that last bar on the gauge. At that point it should take about 3.5-3.6 gallons to top it back up. A lot of the guys just leave the petcock set for reserve rather than switching back and forth. The petcocks do get stiff with age and tend to leak when you turn them. With the fuel pump on the bike you're not going to need to worry about flooding the carbs like with a gravity feed system.
  21. Snaggletooth
    It was years back and I was crossing Missouri when I noticed what appeared to be small circus setting up in a field. At first glance I knew I had to pull over and watch. There was typical farmers "field car" pretty much sunk up to its door handles. Beyond that and attached by chains was a 4X4 pickup sunk to its axles. Attached to that was a rear drive w/duals Massey tractor sunk up to its belly. As I watched a group of muddied and frustrated looking fellas were hooking up a 4X4 tractor with duals all around. I remember the series of thoughts I had watching that. Is this the evolution of farming? Are they building "Farmhenge"? They aren't going to try to pull them out all at the same time are they? And of course......There has to be a better way to make a living! I had to leave my front row seat when a Trooper rolled up and a told me I couldn't park there. We talked for a bit and he said it happens all the time. I noticed he was lingering leaning against his fender as I pulled away so I figured he was interested in the results of the next attempt himself. It all seemed like a lot of work to me.
  22. Snaggletooth
    I had the stock stator and R/R a few years back and ran into some odd charging problems, mostly over charging and the voltage ramping up and down severly. The issue was mainly the R/R. That got replaced and the charging leveled out. But with the stock headlight and two 55w drivers and a couple of handfuls for running lights I could barely hold 12.2 volts at an idle. Then hit the brakes with the two 1157's and it would drop below 11.9. (Hope the cooling fan wouldn't kick in at that point) I checked the stator and found one winding was well below specs. I replaced it with the upgrade from Buckeye performance. (Which is actully less output for a 1st gen than a 2nd gen) Once that was in the charging picked right up. Today...with the H9 headlights at 65w, the two halogen drivers at 55w each and eliminating all the 194 bulbs and converting them to LEDs I can idle the bike WITH the brakes on and still show 13.2. When above 2,000 rpm I'm reading with all the lights lit up 13.9. Turn off the drivers and it runs up to 14.2 - 14.4 range. The upgrade stator helps a bunch. If the charging system is not holding better than the standing battery charge you will be having problems down the road. I use a DEKA AGM which is a 12.8 volt battery so I need to see better than 12.8 going back into it at the worst of times to know it's getting charged.
  23. Snaggletooth
    Well put Jack. That's just it. Tightening the shoulder bolt is just and only that. It does not tighten anything else.
  24. Snaggletooth
    Nice fix Gary. That eliminates the weakest spot on the whole assembly. Drilling out the threaded backside of the flange would leave about the same material as on the smooth bore side so not much loss. Back to the shop! At least it's the cheapest fix I've had for a while.......so far. Thanks Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    No rust on that puppy! Only two years old and kept it greased to avoid rust and binding. It's the stock OEM bolt and it's hardened. The bolt I found at the hardware store was not. I like what Dingy came up with. That eliminates the relief cut on the bolt altogether which as Flyinfool said, a designed in weak spot. Dingys fix: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=48342
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