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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    Maybe this is the one you have? I had to move the helmet lock from the crash bar and onto the bracket. The one bolt goes to where the helmet lock was and the other bolt is on the strut that goes under the bar to where the grab rail attaches. Had to change to a bit longer bolt for that one. I polished everything up and added a couple of nylon washers to the pivot to keep it tight and smooth. Looks fine with the slip covers on them. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Ya gotta watch those guys......they will make ya look a lil......cartoonish!
  3. Snaggletooth
    I've tried four different sets of driving lights on my bike. I keep going back to the Burners for the best light. Only had one bulb fail and easy to replace.
  4. Snaggletooth
    Yep........BossHoss........ If I was bleeding money I'd probably be a proud owner. But for a solo trip to Alaska........probably not a great choice. Other than to scare da bears. But surviving a moose hit might improve.....not for the moose though.
  5. Snaggletooth
    I rode an '06 FJR today just to give the bike an honest shake. It's a nice bike for sure but I don't think I could spend a few weeks of long days on it comfortably. I'm 6'2" and 285 lbs. Gave the Kaw Connie a run also and it would need a few changes to make it more comfortable for the long trip. Risers for sure. Tall ones. The more I look at the Beemer the more I like the bike........but it keeps ringing in my ears.......what happens if I have a problem on the road? It might be probmatic if I was in the boonies with an issue. Odds of a breakdown on a new one....slim. But it bugs me Then I ran into a 1999 Valk. 26,000 miles. Hummm..... I always liked Valks. GW reliablity.....comfortable for a big guy, plenty of power. Not enough bells and whistles to give ya nightmares.......? Good Lord looking at bikes drives me nuts. I keep having to compare apples and oranges and throw in a banana to keep me hopping. LOL! I guess I'll know when I sit on the right one and it says "I'm with you big boy, where we goin'?" Still looking.......and riding.......
  6. Snaggletooth
    And when I comes time for a new battery..........get the DEKA AGM. It has an extra set of bolts to the side and below the main terminal bolt where you can tie in the extra stuff without cluttering the top post. Helped clean mine up.
  7. Snaggletooth
    At some of the better hardware stores you should be able to find the Helicoils and needed tools for installation in the nuts and bolts section. You can buy single pieces that way. Where I'm at you can buy a single coil and the proper size install tool for about $20.00. Another option is a threaded steel insert. Much more available. It depends on how much meat you have around the damaged hole and how deep you can go. I've used these on the motor cases and side covers on a lot of bikes. Pretty simple. Drill out the damaged hole to the proper size, tap new threads, I like a blind tap for the shallow holes, a little red loctite on the insert and screw it in with a standard screwdriver. You will never have to do it again. Helicoil is about the same process but ya need the special tool. I keep an eye on the local "tool surplus" warehouses to. Every now and then I can find a kit with a dozen coils and an install tool for $5.00. Kind of like stealing them at that price. Sadly I don't have any in that size right now or I'd send some up to ya. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Good reminder. I just replaced my SS set two weeks ago. Four years ago I came home to a weird hissing sound coming from the basement. Wandered down the stairs to a nightmare waterpark type of setting. Man it's wild how much that water pressure can damage. Got it cleaned up and replaced the rubber hoses with the SS braided ones. After four years I noticed some mineral build up on the weave of the braid. Took me all of a half an hour to run to the hardware store and replace them. Wasn't taking any chances on that mess again. I have shut offs on them but the daughter has issued with the righty tighty left loosey thing. D'oh!
  9. Snaggletooth
    Voyager died an early death the first time I rode one. Didn't care for it. Just didn't fit.
  10. Snaggletooth
    "of this weight"????? 834 lbs. I'd better mount a flood light on my '84 today. Got that weight beat already!
  11. Snaggletooth
    Hi Ya Lutz...... I know....it's on my Bid-O-Matic. I'm watching it just for the fun of it. A sweet toy it would be for sure. I know I'd have to get a duplicate drivers license as I'm sure I'd be handing mine to the first LEO I meet. LOL! So you have any comments on your thoughts on the failures on the rear ends of these Beemers? Seems to me like the double u joint would be the best set up but maybe it's an issue with the failures. Beemer don't acknowledge there is a problem but it seems to get mentioned a lot. Like out whine..... Maybe I'll buy a Rune.......... Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    I have looked at the FJR but not really all that attracted to it. Felt a little bit too crotch rocket to me I guess. Haven't had the chance to ride one yet for a "lets see how it feels" but wouldn't rule it completely out. It's a much lighter bike for sure and as what am planning is all solo it might be fine. If I could pull 600 or 800 miles in a day on it without feeling beat up at the end of the day........it's a possiblity.
  13. Snaggletooth
    I've been wrestlings with the thought of a new bike. I have some trips I like to take within the next couple of years and well, I love my Blonde '84 but I'd be insane to try my luck making these kinds of trips on the old girl. I've had my GW's before and ran them for all they could give me. My last one gave me 180,000 miles of pretty decent service. Great bikes. I've been watching the RSV since I bought my '84 and hoping for some, well, modern features to be added. Not going to happen soon I'm afraid. I've been out looking over the bikes that have caught my interest and the one I keep coming back to is the BMW K 1200 LT. Much like the GW it's got some stuff that is over kill in my eyes. Power center stand, yikes, reverse, maybe need it later when my knees blow out again. Floor lighting.......floor? The saddle bags are decent but the trunk looks a tad small. I've read of a few failures on the drive lines/rear end and wonder if it's double U joint set up that is the culprit. The bike fits me well and and feels good for it size. I like the riding position on it. The motorized windscreen, in the tall version looks like it would be the trick for protection and road view. I think someone here has one and was hoping for some insight on the bike from a riders view. I know the maintance is $$ but that comes with the brand. I like this bike for the long haul type of trip. At this point a GW would be the second choice. Any input? Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Keep an eye on eBay for sure. They pop up every now and then. The thing to watch for is to make sure it comes with all the parts needed to mount it. Some are missing the brackets or pivot parts. Then you start playing the mix and match game.
  15. Snaggletooth
    Here is what I got. PM sent.
  16. Snaggletooth
    I ended up with a lambskin, a 3/4 shorn type. Soft and plush. I tried the longer sheep skins and didn't get the comfort of the 3/4 type. Nothing like it. Leave it in the sun all day and never feel the heat when ya saddle up. It helps take the pressure off the tail bone to. Spent a few 600 mile days with not discomfort at all.
  17. Snaggletooth
    Let me check my spare parts tomorrow. I think I have an extra right side that is in good shape. I'll post by tomorrow night. I lost my left one on the the first test ride I ever took ofter I got mine running. Never noticed it until the next morning. Makes for a rather nice looking hole. LOL! Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    If it's got more than one carb................balance is good.
  19. Snaggletooth
    Is it just the front brake lever? It should cancel with the lever, foot brake and clutch lever also. Probably just the switch in the lever if it's just the front. Usually it's the other way around. It would kick off from too much slop in the lever killing the connection.
  20. Snaggletooth
    A friend of mine that shares an interest in handguns shot this to me yesterday. Made me cringe a bit. I've seen a couple of ammo mishaps before but this had to be a close call for the shooter. A guy came into the PD the other day to ask a favor. He had a S&W 629 (44 Mag.) that he wanted to dispose of after a mishap at the range. He said there was a loud bang when he tested his new ammo, (Chinese made), and the gun smacked him in the forehead, leaving a nice gash. When the tweety birds cleared, this is what he saw ... Bet he never uses Chinese made Ammo again!
  21. Snaggletooth
    Man I could go on for a half an hour on this one but............ If you're comfortable wearing Spandex tights and a satin wife beater.....Cupcake is probably appropriate and I'll have your back ...er ....that don't sound right.....I'll still be your buddy....geesh......I'll still think you're tops........ah hell Brad! Stick with Squidley!!
  22. Snaggletooth
    A lot of variables on that one. Any scratch to a tube will more than likely leave a raised edge. That would be the reason to polish it down and smooth raised portion back down to surface level. If the scratch is minor....it may hold with little problems for a long time. The smoother the better. Less wear on the the seal and bushings. A long time back when I was beating dirt bikes up an old timer showed me a way to make repairs to a scarred tube. It was iffy and not a permanent fix but it worked. I did this to one of the tubes on my '84 when I got it and it has held for 3 seasons but I'm getting some seaping on that tube again now. This time it's a replacement tube. What the guy did was polish down the damaged area with fine sand paper. Like 5000 grit. Then an extreme cleaning of the damaged area to remove all oils and grit. He then filled the damaged area with J.B. Weld and smooth it out as much as possible. Let it cure for a week. Then again work the area with very fine sand paper across the repair, not along the long edge of it until you could feel nothing. In most cases it held up pretty well. Like I said, I did this to my '84. I didn't know the tube was damaged until I tore it down to rebuild it and install the Progressive. The scar, a nice nick actually, was below the seal with the old springs. The Progresives put the damage right at seal level so it would have been a wear point on the seal constantly. It held for 3 years. Not bad. I wouldn't recommend this for every type of damage but it's something that will work on some. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    I have an account I stop at everyday that is next to a lumber yard. The things I see being hauled out of there unsecured is scary. A while back a pick up had about 10 sheets of sheetrock propped against the tailgate and leaning against the back of the cab with no tie downs at all. He cut in front of me on the frontage road and hit the Interstate. As soon as I got off the ramp I got past him as fast as I could. I could see the top sheet lifting up as he got up to speed. Did not want to be behind that one at all. I shop there for supplies now and then and I asked one of the the yard guys about rules on loading. All the buyer had to do is sign a waiver if the yardman had any issues with the way it was being taken out. Yep.....that's the old cover yer a$$! I feel safer when a waiver is involved. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Yep...the probe itself is not much more than a mini battery. It generates juice when in contact with the electrolite in the battey. If the cell level drops...no more juice to the probe and no signal to the CMS so hence...the warning light. It puts out minimal power like Bongo said so a direct 12 volts has the ability to do harm. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    I'll admit....I had my bike naked when I pulled the coil mounting plate but I'm sure it can be done with the fairing on. I pulled the plate out through the top of the frame once the bolts were out. I had a bad coil on mine early on and ended up pulling all the coils and changing them out with better one. I had 12 to choose from at the time. Took the four that tested the closest together and used them. I had to use a hand impact, a Dremel Tool and a die grinder to get all my bolts out. They were pretty bad. Replaced with SS Allen heads and anti seize. As far as relocating the TCI, not too hard to do. A little rearranging of the harness and it can be worked up to mount on the top of the air box. The biggest failure on these seems to be from moisture. There are weep holes in the bottom of the TCI and if you look at where it is mounted you can see it's a poor location for exposure to the elements. The move to top of the air box is a dryer location, not to mention an easier change out in a failure.
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