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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    Yep, dat's da one.
  2. Snaggletooth
    If it was creaking when you tried to turn it.....it would most likely NEVER fall out on its own. LOL!! Use a set of channel locks or vice grips to grip the outer section. Squirt a little oil around the valve and gently work it back and forth while pulling it towards the front of the bike. Sooner or later it will slip out. Don't forget about that spring and ball bearing. Hard to find once they are on the move. Clean the inner part of the housing up with a piece of Scotchbrite pad and do the plastic valve body also. Install the new o-ring, a little lube and slide it back together. No more drips, easy to feel the detent when changing the position on the valve. That's one problem on it's way to being solved! Now as a added bonus......if the time ever comes when the thermostat sticks shut causing you to over heat......just move the valve to the "On" position. That as said, will allow the coolant to bypass the thermostat and continue moving through the system until you can make proper repairs and replace the thermo. Not a fix..but a "get by" in an emergency. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    The screw is missing? You're not the first one. Been a few that the the spring loaded ball bearing, (the detent) was about the only thing holding it in. You might try a few drops of oil in the top hole in the housing to loosen up the drain valve. If and when, if even possible, that you pull the drain valve out you will find the the plastic valve itself has a groove in it that the screw rides in, and it is a special screw, that retains the valve in place. There is a hole in the plastic body of the valve that has a spring and a ball bearing in it that is what's holds the valve in the correct position. (the holes you mentioned in the housing) Wrap a rag around it when you pull it out to avoid chasing the parts around the floor. And the issue of the screw being broken off, that can be a bugger. The valve body is not going the slide out of the housing if the screw shaft is stll engaged into the groove. Take a pick or a small nail or such and see how far in it will go into the screw hole. If it goes in about 3/8th of an inch you are missing the whole screw. That would be a good thing. If so, you can remove the valve and clean it up and reseal it. If the screw is broken off....that's another headache. Now....if you get it loosened up and able to slide the valve body out...get ahold of Skydoc_17 and order the drain valve kit. New O-ring, SS Allen head screw ground to fit and install them. A good fix to avoid future leaks. And as mentioned the valve is only to control the flow of coolant through or around the thermostat. The drain plug to drain the entire system is on the bottom of the water pump. Valve to "ON"....to drain. Valve to "OFF".....run the bike. Kind of like Windows. Push "Start" to "End". D'oh! Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    Stainless is not as tough as many people think. Consider the Grade 8's for safety. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    I thinl George hit it. We have seen that plug before, CA models had some sort of recovery cannister on it.
  6. Snaggletooth
    Hiya Don.. I will poke fun and laugh as well....er....I've seen worse. On mine!! It's a PO thing I tell ya. You should have seen some of the "Mods" the PO did to mine. No wonder it was stored for nine years. LOL!! The guys around here will get ya through it....they always do. Their help kept me from being called "Sparky". The time comes when ya quit asking questions........we will know you're out riding it. Later Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Yikes!!! I smell ozone...... You carry a fire putter outter thingy right? Call Earl....call Buckeye Performance......call somebody.....call now!
  8. Snaggletooth
    Hi ya Bill, Now you're talking stuff I've been through. OK, best way to check floats is weigh the danged things. I'm not kidding. I had problems with a couple of floats absorbing gas and sinking....causing the carb to guess what.............over flow. Got my hands on a scale that weighed in grams and checked them. Yup. Soaked one was heavier. D'oh! Look for soft spots on the float. I mean press your fingernail right into it soft. If it gives easy it may be breaking down. Check closely around where the brass tang attaches to the float body for coming loose. Ok...simple solution. Find the bad float. Hang it in the sun and let it dry for a few days. Then a single light coat of airplane dope to reseal it. Not very thick as too much will make the float heavier and harder to adjust to the proper fuel bowl level. Or...order a new float from an '85 V-Max. Same thing as the 1st gen carbs, Perfect match. I got the part number somewhere off mine. I think I paid like $28.00 per float on mine. As far as the needles....can't answer that one. Odds of the seat being bad......next to none. Unless somebody went to digging in there with a drill bit or pick. Not likey. Even guys that rebuild carbs for a living usually only replace the needle. And Yammy only sells them as sets. Like $37.00 per set if I remember what I paid for mine. Now replacing the seat it a neat trick to learn. Then you would understand why they like to only replace the needle. More info on that if you want it later. Later Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    I bought all my wedge bulbs from superbrightleds and spent more than $1.98 each on most of them to get the brighter, wider field of light. No regrets. It's been all season and I haven't had to replace any of them. Great brightness, long life, duarable......it's worth the little extra $$ to do it once and be done with it. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    I bought a VR that wasn't running and kinkered with it for a while and then found this site. Been three years now and put a lot of miles on that bike. Wouldn't of happened without these folks.
  11. Snaggletooth
    I'm 285 lbs and I run the rear at 55-60 lbs most the time solo and dampner at 2. I'll go to 3 or 4 if I think I'll be chasing crotch rockets through the twistie stuff. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    I just hate those lil red X boxes!!!!
  13. Snaggletooth
    Yep...The HH pads and SS lines will be a huge change. I can lock front and back if I whack 'em hard. Just the front brake alone with the SS line will will be such a different feel it will surprise you. I got my set from Rick at Buckeye Performance custom fit for the 1st gen. That included the front bleeder for the metering valve on the back of the tree. Big help in bleeding. http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/p04.htm I think Skydoc_17 here is involved in making lines also. I had an incident a couple of weeks back that proved to me that the brakes are more than effective. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Hi Chop.... Lets try this. Ok. you have an '83. I think you may have found the petcock by now. On your bike it will be UNDER the right sidecover, right by the rear foot peg. Make sure that is turned to "ON". Ok. with all the fuel lines in place, does the fuel pump click for 3 or 4 seconds after you turn the key on AND set the kill switch to the run position? These pumps are "demand only". They pump only when fuel is needed. Once the carb fuel bowl is filled....it stops and won't click again until the bowls requires more fuel. That said.....it does not click all the time. If it clicks, disconnect the fuel line from the rear side of the fuel pump. If the petcock is clear and filter is not clogged you will get a good flow from the line. Be prepared for it. If not....the follow the line up the bike and the fuel filter is right behind the fuel pump. If it looks like it might be dirty.....change it. HEck change it anyway. Not real easy to do but it can be done. If it looks good...which I doubt....pull the filter off the line and see if fuel flows from that line. Try that and let us know what you find. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Well....maybe this time. Only because I used to drink a bit and I remember hanging onto that "hand grip" a few times myself. Now if I could just remember if the bike was moving or not. Ok...as you were helping Chop........10 Points. As you made me crack up...............25 Points. Now if Chop is still looking under his handlebars he may want to deduct a few points. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    Sorry Bkuhr......had to do it. A simple error but it made me chuckle. Thanks for that. Nice looking monkey....wasn't he in a movie with an X-President?
  17. Snaggletooth
    The Victory dealer here is just the opposite. They greet you at the door and listen to what you are looking for in a bike. Attentive, informative and helpful....every time. I've been offered test rides three times in the last year on different bikes. A customer that was in the store even offered to let me take his out for a spin once. The local Yammy dealers.....man you could set up a picinic in the middle of the show room floor and they wouldn't notice you. Harley, depends on what ya ride in on. I show up in the Lincoln they spend time on me. I ride the Venture in and it's like don't park your bike out front. BMW......class act all the way. Right to ya as soon as you look at a bike. Not much for test rides but very helpful.
  18. Snaggletooth
    Hey Bkuhr, I got to ask......can you post a pic of you sitting on your bike? I'm sorry man but it sounds like it would be rather uncomfortable from your post. Just funnin' ya buddy but if you don't have some really low clip-ons......... Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Ah, but my Grasshopper Trader......one must not look into the light...but be able to see the light. And these puppies let you do that real well. Makes a heck of a difference in the middle of the night and you get an extra hundred yards on Bambi waiting to ambush ya. Not saying they are for everybody but I wouldn't give mine up for nothing. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Hey Andrew, I'm taking no credit on that idea. It's been around for many years but hardly anyone I know ever did it to a bike. As far as on mine, the PO was the creative one but his method was a bit bizarre. A little too complicated. But it worked. I just simplified what he had done. Dingy was the one that brought all to light with a simple way to make the mod and posted the pics to explain how to do it. He's good at that. The subject had been discussed several times around here but when Gary posted the pics you could almost hear the collective "BING". It made sense then. As you saw there isn't all that great of a contact area on the brush plate to create that needed ground. It does help a lot. Such a simple thing to do. That is.... once you have the starter out. LOL! But glad it helped and hang around. For the cost of membership......the info here is priceless. Not to mention....this crowd can be rather entertaining at times. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Nice......very nice. Been looking for another bike and I keep running into Valks. Not what I had in mind when I stated but they have a lot going for them. Might happen yet. Ya never know...ya know. Enjoy Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    You got that right. Quality and durability are things of the past. I have had a few chances to revive some old furniture.....dressers, chairs and end tables that my daughter thought I'd fallen out of the tree over. Brought them back for another hundred years of service..I hope. She saw them a bit differently when I was done and I hope she will enjoy them all of her life. Don't even get me started on guitars today. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    From my experience, and I have had a LOT of problems with over flowing carbs, I'd look first at the fuel filter. Mainly because of the liner in the tank. If it's latex stuff, as mentioned, it may well not of bonded and is breaking down and getting into the system. Seen it too many times. Then again, as mentioned if the fuel lines are original they may very well be breaking down internally and particals getting into the carbs. However I would think the net filters in the carb bodies would clog before the bowls overflow. Now I have to ask...did the rebuilder set and check the fuel bowl levels once the carbs were redone? If the floats are not set properly that will cause the needle to not seat and fuel will still overflow. As far as leaking more at idle......more than likely. If the bike is running under power it is using more fuel so less will be running out the tubes. Another quetion that comes to mind was did the rebuilder do a bench sync on the carbs? If he got the carbs way out of sync one or more carbs may be farther open that the others. Probably not but asking anyway. Just some thoughts.....I got mine to quit making puddles. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Dang!! I know who's bringing the pony keg.........
  25. Snaggletooth
    I know where those air horns are gonna end up......yep....I do.
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