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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    Thanks for the heads up on that Gary.
  2. Snaggletooth
    You wanted some pics of the foot wings on the bike. Here ya go. Any questions....ask away. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    The first couple of years I owned my '84 my response would have been "You gotta be nuts!". After getting the bike to the point it is today........"I'm gassed up! Which way we going?" What's 27 years old got to do with it? It's ready to ride. Not even worried about it these days.
  4. Snaggletooth
    Great write up on your trip. I've got to add that to my "Things to do this summer" list.
  5. Snaggletooth
    Hey Shaun, Here are a few pics of the way I attach my tank bag to the false cover. Works well, never comes loose and will even work with a larger bag. Just need to line up the places to install the snaps inline with the straps.
  6. Snaggletooth
    This post has the contact info on the supplier for the diaphragms. I'm not sure but I think the price went up a bit but still.......way better than dealing with the Stealership. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42124 This post has the walk though on the installation of them. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19271 Hope that helps. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    You won't hurt the diaphragms by removing the covers at all. Remove the covers and use your finger to press the slider to the outside while working the sealing edge of the diaphragm loose. If they are bad, they were bad before you opened the covers. Hold them up to a bright light and look for pin holes and tears. Should look solid. If not, new ones are in order. We have a supplier here that offers a very fair price on the diaphragms alone. A carb sync would most certainly help on evening up the action of the sliders if the diaphragms are good. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Not accepting any throttle when starting is pretty much the deal with these bikes. The common starting procedure is choke and crank it over only. Bikes will vary greatly on how much choke, depending on temps and adjustment of the carbs and condition of the fuel system, but the common factor seems to be NO THROTTLE until it warms up a bit. Once you try to add the twist to the wrist.....it's a fidgit fit getting it started. At half choke the bike should cold idle around 2,000 rpm. So it sounds like you are in pretty good shape actually. It starts, runs and revs. Good starting point. Sea Foam is the real deal when it comes to cleaning carbs and the fuel system. About the only product that really does what it claims along that line. Be sure to change out you fuel filter as long as you have the bike opened up. Better now than digging back into it later. Mike So, some cleaning, some Sea Foam and a few adjustments along with a quick sync job you should be in great shape.
  9. Snaggletooth
    I found a way to attach a small tank bag to my false cover last year. There are limiting factors to look at before buying one. Too tall and wide and it will interfer with the handlebars when turning. Too long and it will cover the fuel access cover. None the less I used snap kits I found at Westlake Hardware and installed three male section snaps into the cover using machine bolts instead of screws and epoxied an extra layer of ABS plastic sheeting on the inside of the tank cover to beef it up. The tank bag I used had three straps, one to the front and two running off each side of the rear of the bag. I installed the female snap sections into the ends of the straps. With the straps in place they snap on nicely and can still be adjusted to tighten the bag. I can simply unsnap the whole thing and take it inside with me for the night. I thought I had some pics handy but I guess not. I'll post some later tonight when I get some time. It's not a big bag but it can hold my GPS or a cell phone. I could still with a bigger bag using the installed snaps if needed. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    If the pins on the board have been resoldered properly the next weak spot would be the connector plug. Many have found that pressing the plug halves together tighter or moving them around a bit have found that they are getting a better connection or at least an error code on the display that would be the best indicator of the actual problem. Are you only getting the back light or any "E" codes displayed now? It does take a bit for the unit to cycle before it is ready to work. Once you go from the "Acc" position to "On" you must go back to "Off" and then return to "Acc" for it to come on again. Any change in the info displayed on the screen when you press "Auto" or "Manual"?
  11. Snaggletooth
    It started out as an evening of making images to paste together for my daughter to make book covers. Ended up sitting by the front window waiting for a black SUV to show up. She now knows how to make a book cover out of a paper grocery sack. Plain. That experience rated an OOPS!!
  12. Snaggletooth
    Cool. Been wondering about that. Of most of the bikini mods I've seen here some have done away with the braces. That body change may be down the road for me so I picked up a set of the solid motor mounts also. I'm still hung up on that look from this pic. Thanks Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Hey Gary, Have you noticed any difference in the bike without the two frame braces from the sides? Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Hey Jeff.... Want to have some fun? If you have a newer computer and scanner slide in a bill and try to make a copy actual size. Go ahead.......go for it! Hope that goes as well for you as it did for me. :rotf: But back to the ranch......Hope your son has a safe a fun trip. I wandered off many times when I was his age and it was always an experience locked if for a lifetime. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Hey Shaun, Looking at your pics from your early posts I saw you did not have the Lower Bodys on the bike. (from the arrow on the left side of my pic) I assume this is part of what you are asking about. Almost any year of MKI or MKII should mount up fine me thinks. On eBay all the time. The are joined together on the front by a brace called a Fin. (arrrow on right side) Several on eBay now. If you look into that make sure they have the tabs intact. Two on each at the tops. Cracked ones can be fixed. Missing tabs take a little more work to fab up but can be done. Now as far the the lower chin, like the one with the arrow in the middle is from an MKII. You would need to find one on eBay and you would also need the engine crash bars from an '85 or newer to mount them as they have four metal tabs on them to bolt to that the '83-'84's do not have. The '83-'84 had a metal chin that was stock but they are hard to find in any kind of decent condition. They are a direct bolt on but you would need to fab up a set of spacers as they seem to never be included in the listed ones. I chose to add the chin (off an '86) to mine to protect the spin on oil filter adaptor I installed. I got lucky and found a matching one for $40.00 that still had the bushings in it. The crash bars I bought for about $40.00 also but they leave a little to be desired on condition. Always looking for a better set. Hope that helps. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    I found one at a local NAPA store on a display rack of engine hose connections.
  17. Snaggletooth
    The new hose available is a bit shorter than the OEM that came on the bike. This is due to the change they made (per service bulletin) that connects the drain hose from the front left corner back to a "T" at the bottom of the breather hose where it connects back at the crankcase. The new hose is just a tad shorter due to that connection. I added an inch and a half of hose with a splicer to make up for it. Mike I added a PDF file of the service notice. Crummy copy but you'll get the idea.
  18. Snaggletooth
    Don't feel bad Reno. You ain't alone. A couple of weeks ago I was surfing eBay late and saw a left engine guard in really nice condition. I needed a left one for my '84 as the set I bought a couple years ago (for an '86 to mount the ABS chin) had a crack in it. The listing was for an 1200-1300 guard and the bid was .99 cents and about to end. I popped it and won. When it arrived I had to laugh. It would fit both 1200 and 1300 for sure but it was off a 1200 as there were no tabs to mount the chin. Geesh! All the time I spent looking at the pictures to make sure the chrome was good and not rashed up or broken I forgot about the danged tabs. Split sets are always a bear trying to get them both. Hope you find your other half.
  19. Snaggletooth
    That answered my question. Thanks Gary.
  20. Snaggletooth
    Hi Squeeze. Question. Does that screw go directly into that plug then? Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Hi Charlie, That is a project I'm working on for my '84. You will need to swap out the front forks for a set of MKII forks for the right mounting configuration on the lower legs. You can use the MKII calipers, or step up to the R1 calipers. The rotor diameter will also be larger (298 mm me thinks off hand) so the MKII rotors will be needed also, or an aftermarket with the correct mounting bolt specs. If you chose the R1 calipers you will need different brake lines to fit properly also.
  22. Snaggletooth
    And if that fails you might try to Dremel a slot into the screw head to fit a larger straight blade. The use of a hand impact would help to keep the pressure into the screw head once you get a bite on it. I do beleive there is a plug under the cover that goes into the coolant jacket. Now what I don't know is if the plug can work loose if the cover is loose. Haven't had that apart on mine yet. Something to check. Someone else should have the answer to that. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    Now that was an excellent write up! Nice work. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    36? Good Lord get that kid a highchair so he can reach the cake! Better yet, add two years so he can start catching up with the rest of us. Happy B-Day Shaun. Enjoy the day. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    Weird. I had the cooling kit in mine but no punch on the case.
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