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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    On my old 750 the sprockets pretty much looked like saw blades evertime I went to change the chain. I was hard on that old girl........but she could take and hand it out to. Miss that bike.
  2. Snaggletooth
    Put me in for a 7" and 5 3/4". One of each. And thanks. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    Thanks for bringing this up. I've been here for a few years now and have seen some comments and responses lately that surprised me. I wrote it off as PMS and hoped it didn't turn into a trend. We promote this club as a friendly site and if trial and new members are seeing these types of comments they can only assume that we are like a lot of other forums. Thanks again Don. Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    Brian, Did you check on this site for shipping? http://www.mcmaster.com/#jis-(japanese-industrial-standard)-screwdrivers/=bnvxh8
  5. Snaggletooth
    Well, one thing is for sure if the BF is gone for good.....it's less stress for her and the riding experience will be more enjoyable for her, and for you. Less friction is much cooler. Whatever transpires after this point is all for the good. You have an enjoyable riding partner and what more can you ask for than that. Although I have to say the entertainment value of this thread may have just gone down the tube. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Ok, I know these will get a better bite on an OEM screw on a Japanese bike. The most common problem that I run into working on the older bikes is simply that the last guy has damaged the heads or stripped out the screws and can't get what he was working on apart. So if I was the kind of guy that orders every screw from the stealership I'd be in good shape. But I'm not that guy. LOL So the question is, and dumb it might be, but when buying metric screws at the local hardware store is the head going to be JIS or our standard? Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    I had a set of both internal and external from Sears that I have used since the early 70's. One finally gave out and I was in the middle of a project. Ran over to NAPA and they had a really well made combination one for both int/ext for about $35.00. Like the other one mentioned just flip two levers to change it. Great tool, very strong with interchangabe tips. Holding up very well. With the others I could always see them flex. Not this one. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    I wonder about me almost every day Dano.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Good catch Camos, and you're right. 18 ga would be too light. It was almost 2:00 am when I posted that and it should have been 12 ga. As far as the main fuse, I changed mine over the the same type of fuse and holder as shown in the pic. I run a 30 amp max there also. And a lot easier to change the fuse if needed. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    I wish Nebraska would do that. In a days ride around my place I can hit about 7 State Parks that require stickers. I think it was about $23.00 last year and then a second vehicle sticker was another $10.00. I do get my use out of them though. And from the looks of the parks, the State needs all the funding it can get. All the budget cuts are leaving them poorly cared for. Sad to see. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Dang Gary............ Ya got me back on the McMaster Carr website again. I should not be there without supervision. Ordered a set of JIS's, some buffing wheels, new replacement face shields, cable sleeving and some more ball studs. I have no self control on that site. Nice cable BTW.....should work out real well. I like the 1045 strand and the flexiblility. Later. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    I'm going for 18ga., if the plugs for the R/R allow it. I look at it this way......upgrade stator.....upgrade R/R.......upgrade wire, and not to mention upgrade fuse. Here is my install kit and the way it will be wired.
  13. Snaggletooth
    I'd concern mysef more with weatherproof. These are NOT a shunt type R/R so there is little heat to be concerned with. No real airflow required for cooling, unlike the OEM that needed to be "In The Wind" LOL! Mine is going in by the weekend and it will be under the seat. I'm bypassing the old harness with a new set of wires and a 30 amp fuse on the hot lead with heavier gauge wires. A few shots of the aftermarket R/R I installed after my OEM gave up the ghost. Needed a lot more "In The Wind" don't ya think. My bad....mounted too close to the Mac Pipes. Lesson learned. Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    Hey Shaun, Relax a lil bit. Mrfixit1996 is one of the good guys. I've done a lot of buys off him with no issues at all. Some of our members know him personally. Sorry you had a problem with the one seller but you were dealing through the store listings and made an offer. That can go one way or the other. What the seller did was probably not the most ethical thing, but sometimes.......it sucks. Now if Painterman67 don't grab that pretty soon it's gonna be gone. More than a fair price for the condition. Rusty ones have sold for almost a $100.00.
  15. Snaggletooth
    Remember that Honda Rune that was on eBay a while back? That listed low bid at $1,000,000. Then he relisted. ..........no bidders. Go figure.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Yep, Pulling the rear sub frame is the way to go. Saves a lot of time as you can leave a lot of parts mounted on the subframe intact by removing the entire assembly. It's not as bad a job to do as it seems. Once you find the mounting points for the subframe you will see what I mean. But as stated pull the sending unit and take a good look at the inside before commiting to pulling the tank. Check the petcock pickup screens real good to. Mine had given out and was letting every flake of rust into the system. Nasty mess. Make sure the tank is about half empty or better. It too full the fuel will be above the seal in the sending unit. Not cool. Pulled my tank due to rust a couple years ago. Used a this product to treat and seal it.' http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm Great stuff. Yell if ya got questions. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    The anti-dives work....to a point. Not much more than an on/valve that restricts the flow of oil through the fork. The issue is that the OEM springs are junk. Too soft and they get worse with age so they bottom out real bad and dive when braking. The solution most of us go for is the Progressive springs. Once those are installed the anti-dives are really not needed. They do not bottom out and the dive affect is reduced dramatically. At that point you can disconnect the anti-dives by removing the jumper brake line to them on the MKI or disconneting the wires on the electric MKII's. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    That will do nicely. I have an older model type with an open body around the electrodes. I always know I have good solid spark when I have to comb my hair when I'm done testing. Should be a danged warning on the thing, "Do not use while sweating" Might as well hold the plug wire with my teeth.
  19. Snaggletooth
    Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments. But in all fairness, projects like this would not happen without guys like Earl and Bob and all the others that provide or produce parts or tools for these bikes. And the guys that take time to set up many of the group buys that we enjoy the affects of. Or the guys that out of the goodness of their heart will send you a part simply because they know you needed it and they had an extra one. That is one of the best things about this site. We end up discussing a common problem that we all wish we could change and someone comes up with a solution. Even better, they find or create a fix to share with the rest of us. BTW Bob. Nice job on the seal and bushing driver you turned out. Very slick. And then offer it up as a club loaner? That's what I'm talking about. The ideas, advice, services and suggestions from this club have beem priceless. Thank you all. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Just got my forks back together for my '84. Had a lil mishap year that damaged the seals so a rebuild was in order. Ended up buying a spare set of forks to rebuild as I was concerned about damage to one of the inner fork tubes. So that started the whole project. As I had time over the winter to play with this I got into doing a good job of it. Stripped the clear coat off the lower tubes and bought some goodies to try my hand at polishing. Worked out pretty good for a much better finish but a long way from a professional job. Good enough. A lot better than where it started from. And I had wanted to find a way to remove the anti-dives. I had disconnected them long ago but the buggers were still there. Wanted them gone. I had played around with making my own plates to close the ports but it was a PITA to get right. Then our one and only skydoc_17 offered up his SS Blockoff Plates. Thank you Earl. Now there are two less items to take a toothbrush to. I finally got around to ordering the rest of the parts I needed from skydoc and got after it this week. Done deal, finished, over. Laying on the bench ready to mount back up as soon as it warms up a bit more.....maybe tomorrow. The blockoff plates make for a much slicker look and cleans up the forks nicely. I might mention that when I opened up my old forks (with the Progressive Springs) I found I had gained a bit of slack in the preload. I made new set of spacers to tighten that back up. Don't even want to talk about all the things I found wrong on the inside of forks I bought off eBay. Yikes! What some people will do to a bike to try to make it work. Death wish I tell ya!! But I got what I needed from them.....both inner tubes were good so that alone was worth it. So a few pics of the old and new. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Go figure.....Amish Country. Those folks got something going on they ain't talkin' about.
  22. Snaggletooth
    Now you been to Hell......head for PA and recover. Towns there are much more interesting. Ran through Blue Balls, Intercourse and ended up in Climax. And yes I took that route for a reason. Any other way would have seemed......unnatural.
  23. Snaggletooth
    The TL was pretty much for on the highway. The TR is great for around town. I can relax my grip a bit and rest the pad of my hand on the rocker to control the throttle.
  24. Snaggletooth
    They are nice to have. Does wonders for keeping the boots dry from road spray and rain. About the only part of me that gets wet behind the 1st gen fairing. If you get into doing a fab job, consider using aluminum or SS sheet to make the panels. These are only two years old and are showing chips and starting to crack in a couple of spots. They do take an occasional hit from road debris.
  25. Snaggletooth
    Since my cruise control can get a bit iffy at times I installed a throttle lock on mine and added a Throttle Rocker to. I have some wear and tear in my wrists and it's nice to be able to let up on the grip for a while.
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