Jump to content

Snaggletooth

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,545

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    Trying to rescue my daughters boyfriends car. He filled the tank up and shortly after the car started stuttering and stalling and will start again after a few minutes but has no power on a hill and will stall out again. I'm thinking bad gas and/or it is clogging the fuel filter. It's a 1988 Cutlass with the 5 Ltr. Working from memory that car has a fuel fitler that screws into the carb body with either a filter inside of the barrel housing or the barrel housing itself is a filter. I'm pretty sure it has steel fuel lines. Anybody have any info on that. Headed out in a bit to see what I can do. Be nice to grab the right filter on the way. Thanks Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Contact has been made. Good going Bob! Give it time to pickup the sludge, it will slow down in time. And you have had it how long? .....it's obsolete by the time you plug it in ya know. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    I just checked with SW Moto where I got my last set and they are at $120.95 for the front and $140.95 for the rear. So if they can beat that, even with the $50.00, I'll give them a shot. I'll let ya know what they come up with. Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    About the same on mine. The guy at the bike shop that mounts mine couldn't believe it until he checked the records on when he mounted them. He never thought they would pull that kind of mileage. I'm getting ready to order another set. Can't complain. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Thanks, I was getting ready to order a new set of Avons for mine. That helps! Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    One of my riding buddies had called me over to see the new bike lift he had bought. I rode over and just as I pulled into his driveway I saw the bike up on the lift and he waved at me and started to let the bike down. It was weird watching the bike come down and slowly lean to the left and then go completely over against the wall. At least there was a wall to stop it. He just stood there with that old slack jaw expression while I got off my bike and looked over his bike for damage before trying to pick it back up. He just looked at me and asked, "What the H~~L you grinning about?" All I could say was, "Next time you might want to put the side stand down before you lower the lift." Looking at him all I could think of was an old cartoon owl looking at me and blinking. First time in a long time I've seen him speechless. We rode over to Wally World and got him some straps and showed him how to tie the bike down on the lift. Just in case he forgets again. But no damage done except his pride.
  7. Snaggletooth
    Wow~~~~ Speechless........Now that stands out! Most excellent!
  8. Snaggletooth
    On my old 750 the sprockets pretty much looked like saw blades evertime I went to change the chain. I was hard on that old girl........but she could take and hand it out to. Miss that bike.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Put me in for a 7" and 5 3/4". One of each. And thanks. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    Thanks for bringing this up. I've been here for a few years now and have seen some comments and responses lately that surprised me. I wrote it off as PMS and hoped it didn't turn into a trend. We promote this club as a friendly site and if trial and new members are seeing these types of comments they can only assume that we are like a lot of other forums. Thanks again Don. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Brian, Did you check on this site for shipping? http://www.mcmaster.com/#jis-(japanese-industrial-standard)-screwdrivers/=bnvxh8
  12. Snaggletooth
    Well, one thing is for sure if the BF is gone for good.....it's less stress for her and the riding experience will be more enjoyable for her, and for you. Less friction is much cooler. Whatever transpires after this point is all for the good. You have an enjoyable riding partner and what more can you ask for than that. Although I have to say the entertainment value of this thread may have just gone down the tube. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Ok, I know these will get a better bite on an OEM screw on a Japanese bike. The most common problem that I run into working on the older bikes is simply that the last guy has damaged the heads or stripped out the screws and can't get what he was working on apart. So if I was the kind of guy that orders every screw from the stealership I'd be in good shape. But I'm not that guy. LOL So the question is, and dumb it might be, but when buying metric screws at the local hardware store is the head going to be JIS or our standard? Mike
  14. Snaggletooth
    I had a set of both internal and external from Sears that I have used since the early 70's. One finally gave out and I was in the middle of a project. Ran over to NAPA and they had a really well made combination one for both int/ext for about $35.00. Like the other one mentioned just flip two levers to change it. Great tool, very strong with interchangabe tips. Holding up very well. With the others I could always see them flex. Not this one. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    I wonder about me almost every day Dano.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Good catch Camos, and you're right. 18 ga would be too light. It was almost 2:00 am when I posted that and it should have been 12 ga. As far as the main fuse, I changed mine over the the same type of fuse and holder as shown in the pic. I run a 30 amp max there also. And a lot easier to change the fuse if needed. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    I wish Nebraska would do that. In a days ride around my place I can hit about 7 State Parks that require stickers. I think it was about $23.00 last year and then a second vehicle sticker was another $10.00. I do get my use out of them though. And from the looks of the parks, the State needs all the funding it can get. All the budget cuts are leaving them poorly cared for. Sad to see. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    Dang Gary............ Ya got me back on the McMaster Carr website again. I should not be there without supervision. Ordered a set of JIS's, some buffing wheels, new replacement face shields, cable sleeving and some more ball studs. I have no self control on that site. Nice cable BTW.....should work out real well. I like the 1045 strand and the flexiblility. Later. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    I'm going for 18ga., if the plugs for the R/R allow it. I look at it this way......upgrade stator.....upgrade R/R.......upgrade wire, and not to mention upgrade fuse. Here is my install kit and the way it will be wired.
  20. Snaggletooth
    I'd concern mysef more with weatherproof. These are NOT a shunt type R/R so there is little heat to be concerned with. No real airflow required for cooling, unlike the OEM that needed to be "In The Wind" LOL! Mine is going in by the weekend and it will be under the seat. I'm bypassing the old harness with a new set of wires and a 30 amp fuse on the hot lead with heavier gauge wires. A few shots of the aftermarket R/R I installed after my OEM gave up the ghost. Needed a lot more "In The Wind" don't ya think. My bad....mounted too close to the Mac Pipes. Lesson learned. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Hey Shaun, Relax a lil bit. Mrfixit1996 is one of the good guys. I've done a lot of buys off him with no issues at all. Some of our members know him personally. Sorry you had a problem with the one seller but you were dealing through the store listings and made an offer. That can go one way or the other. What the seller did was probably not the most ethical thing, but sometimes.......it sucks. Now if Painterman67 don't grab that pretty soon it's gonna be gone. More than a fair price for the condition. Rusty ones have sold for almost a $100.00.
  22. Snaggletooth
    Remember that Honda Rune that was on eBay a while back? That listed low bid at $1,000,000. Then he relisted. ..........no bidders. Go figure.
  23. Snaggletooth
    Yep, Pulling the rear sub frame is the way to go. Saves a lot of time as you can leave a lot of parts mounted on the subframe intact by removing the entire assembly. It's not as bad a job to do as it seems. Once you find the mounting points for the subframe you will see what I mean. But as stated pull the sending unit and take a good look at the inside before commiting to pulling the tank. Check the petcock pickup screens real good to. Mine had given out and was letting every flake of rust into the system. Nasty mess. Make sure the tank is about half empty or better. It too full the fuel will be above the seal in the sending unit. Not cool. Pulled my tank due to rust a couple years ago. Used a this product to treat and seal it.' http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm Great stuff. Yell if ya got questions. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    The anti-dives work....to a point. Not much more than an on/valve that restricts the flow of oil through the fork. The issue is that the OEM springs are junk. Too soft and they get worse with age so they bottom out real bad and dive when braking. The solution most of us go for is the Progressive springs. Once those are installed the anti-dives are really not needed. They do not bottom out and the dive affect is reduced dramatically. At that point you can disconnect the anti-dives by removing the jumper brake line to them on the MKI or disconneting the wires on the electric MKII's. Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    That will do nicely. I have an older model type with an open body around the electrodes. I always know I have good solid spark when I have to comb my hair when I'm done testing. Should be a danged warning on the thing, "Do not use while sweating" Might as well hold the plug wire with my teeth.
×
×
  • Create New...