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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    Gary, Got to follow this one. I have a set of Blue's I picked up as the train of thought in past posts seemed to be they were the best for our application. Curious about the covers myself. Mine came without and can't seem to find any. You thinking Brembos? Go radial! Six would be a bit extreme don't ya think or you concidering doing some stunting?
  2. Snaggletooth
    What's that old saying? "Every motorcyle is about $2,000 away from being finished."
  3. Snaggletooth
    As long as your're in there........... Have you done the heavier gauge battey cables? And then how's your starter engage clutch? And have you upgraded to a higher output stator? And do you have the Progressive springs in yet? And how's your R/R holding up? And a good time to change the thermostat!! Fork seals? Brake pads? Head light upgrade? Ahh dang! He's going to throw stuff at me!! Once it gets rolling..........
  4. Snaggletooth
    Jeff, sent ya a PM on an idea. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    And a handy tool it is!! Installed new All Balls in the neck while I had the forks off and it made setting the new bearings a snap. Had some wobble last year and it's gone now. Congrats on the new to you bike. It just gets better as it goes. As stated clear out all the gas that has been Sea Foamed and that vapor might just clear up. The NAPA thermo works fine. I've had one in mine for a few years now and it runs at just about the same temps as the OEM. As long as you're digging in that area take a few minute and put in a new o-ring in the drain valve. If it's not leaking now....it will. Skydoc_17 has a kit listed in the classified for a few bucks. Works fine. Enjoy the bike. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    '84 MKI here alive and well.
  7. Snaggletooth
    Boy, ya got that right. Found out the hard way. I had one really bright blue LED as an indicator light in a switch on the bars. Noticed my night vision was not working well at all. I knew the light was a distraction and ended up taping it over one night. Snap! Night vision was all better. Little research comfirmed blue light can be a issue.
  8. Snaggletooth
    He's got it. If ya go to NAPA the part# for the Maxi fuse is 7822101. They will be hanging in fuse section. Don't forget a spare!! The part# for the Maxi holder is 784674. These are not on the fuse rack at all. I found them hanging on the spinner rack with the wire and butt connectors. When I had asked the parts guy for a Maxi fuse holder they tried to sell me a fuse block the size of my hand for $20.00. Check the rack. LOL! Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    You would think he could afford a nice trailer and save a lot of hassle. But if ya got the bucks..............
  10. Snaggletooth
    If you are talking about the clear plastic block that runs from the the battery, that is the main fuse. It is actually not much more than a metal blade. I did mine by simply cutting out the plastic block and replacing it with a MAX fuse holder and a 30 amp MAX blade fuse. Simple to do, not expensive at all. About $5.00 for the holder and $3.00 for the fuse. And a lot easier to change than the OEM fuse. And the fuses are easier to find. Got mine at NAPA Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Hey Marcarl, Ya just had to tease didn't ya. You have any idea long long I looked for a set of those lightbars? I found one and it was a rusted mess. Look good though. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    And that was back in the day when waxing the car was an all day job. Those old road cruisers seemed to be about the same size as an aircraft carrier when you started waxing. Bike would be much easier. Yep.
  13. Snaggletooth
    The picture looks like it would work fine. Just remember to cross your safety chains under the hitch so if you would have a break-a-way the ball hitch will drop into the cradle. I've seen a couple riders that ran their chains so tight I don't know how they could turn. Not good.
  14. Snaggletooth
    Ok, ya looked. I figured the way you guys follow Beavers advantures you'd jump all over that header. But.....I was digging in a couple of those old boxes that seem to follow you around for years that contain things that you keep for no reason and I did find something that I used to love but is was lost track of for years, actually decades and I like to find it again. It took me a while to figure out what is was but when I did I started jonesing for more. Many moons ago, like in the mid 70's I was at a car show and ran across a different kind of car wax. It came in a plastic tub and was in a powder form. You would take a damp cloth and dip it in the powder and apply it like a paste. The thing was that it did not let water bead up like a regular wax. After you finished applying it you could throw a bucket of water on the car and it would simply run off in a sheet. Not a spot to be seen. The effect was rather interesting when I would use RainX on the window also. People used to stop and look at the car when it was raining out because it looked like it was dry. You could see the rain drops hit and splash but then.....nothing. No beaded water, no spots and when it dried there were no water marks. Sadly the tub is now so worn and faded I can read nothing on it. What powder is left is a solid, hard as nails chunk. Maybe if I throw it in the blender.....? Sure would like to find out if it is still available. Only time I ever saw it for sale was at the car show. Never in a store, car mags or even offered on TV! But that was way before those fantastic infomercials were there to guide in our purchases. Anybody ran across a product like this? As the kind of guy that would rather ride the bike than clean it..........see where I'm going with this........it would be great for bike. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Now that is nice work Snarley. Very slick!
  16. Snaggletooth
    Dang!! Finally found a use for my Groucho Glasses!
  17. Snaggletooth
    Squidley, I've been so far out of the box for so long with this bike I don't even know where the box is anymore. The other plus side of this is with the heavier lights the brackets tend to droop a bit with the little bit of play that exists between the tab on the frame bracket the alignment slot in your brackets. With the braces I able to add a lil up pressure to the light and keep them level. Works out well. Rather that the beams being a few degrees off level they are closer to straight across. I'm really starting to think that all you need in the tool box for these bikes is a big hammer, an anvil and a drill. Well....sometimes.
  18. Snaggletooth
    I'll go with "retro". I'm afraid that in a few more years it might be closer to "Steamship Punk". LOL! I got to looking into the DS lights again after installing the Shindengen R/R last week. Man that lil bugger works well. The other driving lights I was running were 65 watts each and the charge only dropped 2/10th of a volt when I kicked them on. With these lights, 35 watts each it only drops 1/10th. With the Hella H9 setup for the headlight I have all the down the road light I need. These will give me more spread and won't be so intense for oncoming traffic.
  19. Snaggletooth
    You remember way back when that you helped me out on the 4 1/2" Drag Specialty driving lights I was trying to mount on the brackets you made? I sent you the frame mounting brackets while you were still in MI and you added a gusset to them to stiffen them up. I think those brackets got more miles on them than my bike did that year. They ended up in Texas when you headed south and you and Ponch finshed them up and even powered coated them for me. Well that project died out as the lights were pretty heavy and big and caught a lot of wind and they would shake so bad going down the road it would knock the filiments out of the headlights. I gave up and went back to the smaller and lighter lights. For a while. I liked those DS lights. So back to the drawing board. I think I've nailed it. I fabbed up a set of prototype braces out of aluminum tubing and installed them on the bike with the DS lights. No more shakey at all. Even at highway speeds they are solid. Finally. So now to make a set out of SS tubing and finish this up. They don't look too bad and do clear the lower fairing and the foot wings with plenty of room to spare. That was the whole problem before. No where to really mount any type of brace that would clear everything. I'll go with function over form on this one. So your efforts to help me out were not wasted. It paid off in the end. Thank you once again. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Whew! That was close. Thanks for the reminder.
  21. Snaggletooth
    I'm afraid I have to agree with Ruffy on the quality of the Batteries Plus unit. No luck with them in the past. The AGM's are known for having an extremely low discharge rate when not being used. I've had my DEKA now ....going into its third season. It has NEVER been on a tender and even sitting on the shelf for the winter season it does not require a charge to top it off. Seeing 9 volts......that battery ain't coming back to full charge I'm afraid. If there was a parasitic drain on the battery that would do it. The clock should not even affect an AGM. Being on a charger over night........I'd suspect the battery is the whole problem. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    If I'm on track with the right hole, that is an adjustment screw. Gently turn it in until you just feel it seat lightly......do not tighten it!.....and then back it out 2 1/2 turns for a starting point. Now the actual carb bowl drain screw that allows you to drain the bowls is off to the right side of the carb body and sits at an angle. It had a brass screw inside. You can see that clearly. You open that one up and that allows the gas to drain from the black rubber tubes that stick out of the carb rack support bracket. That one you want to snug up a bit after draining the bowls or the drain tube will drip. I can post a pic or two in a bit. Mike Updated: Ok, there is the pic. Arrow on left is the pilot screw. Like I said.. light bottom out then 2 1/2 turns out for close. Arrow on right is the bowl drain screw. Hope that helps.
  23. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Don, I'll look into Caswells again. I buy the tank sealer and some polishing products from them now and then. Good folks to deal with. That epoxy tank sealer is great stuff. Did mine a couple years ago and then three more tanks for friends over the winter. I looked into some of their plating kits last fall but decided to not to go that route. Just don't have the type of workspace for that stuff. Just to strip.....might be fine. Gonna do a little test with Okiestars idea to. Might work. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Gary, trying to get the "chrome plating" off some plastic parts. So you're talking about removing badges right?
  25. Snaggletooth
    I spent a lil over $300.00 on parts alone to rebuild the carbs on my bike......but it's an '84. That was all new floats, diaphragms, needles, seals and valves. With an '07....not even close to needing that kind of work. With little trust of dealer shops I'd bet the carbs wouldn't even get taken off the bike.
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