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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    Now that just makes proud as can be!! Let it be just the beginning!!! :clap2: Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    I'm 6'2" and a 34 inseam. I was looking through the OEM screen and wanted it lower. With the 2" shorter I'm looking right over the top so that's right where I wanted it. As far as any buffeting, I can't say I'm feeling any issue with it at all. With the full face on there don't seem to be any difference at all. With the trooper style helmet with the visor if I raise my self up a bit the wind will catch the visor a bit. But in a normal riding position, it's fine. I was a bit surpised as the OEM has that recurve at the top and the Cee Bailey is straight. Water blow off is good and I'm not getting blasted in the face by it. And believe me, that has been tested on a pretty much daily basis here over the last few weeks. As far as any change for a passenger, I have no idea yet. The daughter is not a fan of riding in the rain.
  3. Snaggletooth
    Your outfit hiring?
  4. Snaggletooth
    How short you planning on cutting it? I just bought a new screen from Cee Bailey that was 2" shorter than stock. Pretty happy with it. I think they make one 4" shorter also. But the price was good at $117.00 shipped.
  5. Snaggletooth
    Do it yourself. It don't take all the many tools to do it and if you are not needing to rebuild all three calipers it can be done in less than a couple of hours including bleeding. The bleeding usually takes longer than replacing the pads until you get the hang of it. If you are planning to rebuild the calipers having an air compressor handy helps a bunch when it's time to remove the pistons. I've had to separate the caliper halves to get that done (against the service manual recommendations) with no ill effects. If your dealer wants 8 hours to replace pads......he's milking it. The brake pedal operates the rear and front left through a proportioning valve on the rear master. That opens to send pressure to the rear brake first and as that starts to build pressure it then sends fluid to the front left brake. When the brake is fully applied it is sending 30% pressure to the rear and 70% to the front brake. The front right brake is operated by the right hand lever alone. The bleeding process is the trick to get it all finished up right. I'm old school and do the pump and bleed rather than using power vacs. The method I use is this: Rear caliper first. The metering valve behind the triple tree next. (the highest point in the system) The front left caliper. The front left anti-dive if you have a MKI model. Then the right front is pretty straight forward. Caliper first then the anti-dive. Make sure you keep the fluid level filled in the master res. and flush the entire system to fill with new fluid. Take care on opening the fill cap on the rear master res. That lil puppy can be stuck pretty good and a few have cracked the body removing it. There will be a lot of good advice jumping in here soon I'm sure. I'd offer more now but I'm headed out the door for work. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Nah.....ya gotta go back a lil farther than that.
  7. Snaggletooth
    I got to throw in for the DEKA AGM's. Got mine from Josh at Bohanon and going into my 3rd season with it. It's seen some brutal treatment including a R/R failure, had to use the starter to run it up a 50 ft. incline once to get to a gas pump, been through a starter engage clutch failure (a lot of cranking) and sub zero temp starts. It's never had a tender on it even during winter storage and it still shows 12.8 volts on the digital volt meter EVERY time. The discharge rate during storage on an AGM is so minimal you would hardly notice it. It's almost like they recharge themselves. American made to boot. Tough as nails. Great quality. And it was under $90.00 shipped to my door. Check with Skydoc_17 for sure. He sells them also. Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Boy have I been through this lately!! Fork problems...... don't ask. From what I was dealing with when I caught it quick and got the pads cleaned up right away with brake cleaner they looked pretty good. On the ones I had to run on and they got soaked, they cleaned up well, but were still saturated. Nuttin is gonna get that out. The ones that were sprayed and cleaned up right way,...... ran 'em for a few days and they worked fine. But ....... I did replace all the pads on the bike after I got the forks resealed and made sure the seals would hold. The "used & cleaned" pads went on the shelf as JIC parts. So it depends on how badly they got oiled. Good luck.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Love my Red Wings!
  10. Snaggletooth
    I've done about all I can do to my carbs over the last couple of years and have done alright with fuel mileage. Usually pull between 36 and 40 mpg in town a running in traffic. I'm not all that gentle on the throttle most the time. I was happy with that. A good day is 42 to 44. I had a morning off for a change today so I took off and wandered around on the back roads for a while. Did about 300 miles. I've always wondered how far I could push the bike for miles before I ran it dry. I usually lose my last fuel bar about 140 miles and start looking for a pump. So today I filled a gallon gas can and put it in the side tank and figured I would find out. I kept my speed as close to 60 - 65 as I could for most the miles and lost my last bar at about 160 miles on the odo. Kept rolling until I got nervous as the last 45 miles were going to have to be Interstate. Stop and filled it up. 226.4 on the odo. Took 4.73 gallons. That figures to be 47.86 mpg. I got nuttin to complain about. I must have learned something hanging around here. Ok, So I did not get to answer one question I had. I know the tank is 5.3 gallons. I should have had about 1/2 of a gallon left. Any of you know about how much you can actually draw from the tank? Later, Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Jack, Saved me some shopping. My daughter dropped the Canon Powershot last week and, well......it can shoot around corners now. Off to Wootland! Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    +1 on the quick change! And a keyless chuck.
  13. Snaggletooth
    Got a question that might indicate if the starter switch is the problem. When the starter button is pressed it cuts out the head light. Is the headlight coming back on when you are hearing this noise? And yes, the switches can get stuck.
  14. Snaggletooth
    Yep..... I always said a Dremel would be the last tool I would need. Yikes! I got three of them now. All set up for different jobs. Watch that screw on the sanding drum. Make sure it's tight. Once it works loose.....it fires out of there like a bullet. Good luck finding that lil sucker. LOL! Have fun! Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Hi Tom, Welcome to the site. Got what ya need for your project. PM sent. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    Hey Scott, Good move. You'll be happy with the results no doubt about it. I had the hot start problem when I first got mine and it drove me nuts. I'd have the bike stall once in a while at a light and I be in search mode looking for a place to push it off the road. I did the rebuild with new (cheap) brushes and found that the PO had done some kind of wiring mod inside the starter. Got to banging heads with Dinghy on it and he came up with the current solution. Way better than what the PO had done to mine. The rebuild made a huge difference and I got by for about a year until the cheap brushes failed. With all the info here I ended up with, in this order, cable upgrade, starter ground mod, upgrade stator, Danos starter engage clutch mod, a 4 brush starter, a new DEKA AGM and I just added the Shindengen R/R this spring. As far as I'm concerned, that is all you can do to make it right. Adding the Shindengen was the cherry on top. Heck of a unit. Not to mention I got the carbs right so it don't stall at the lights anymore. The temps have been hitting in the 90's here also and I can run through a tank of gas, kill the bike and tap the switch and it's running again. Starts the same at 90 or 19. Makes one a little more comfortable when you are 500 miles from the house. Enjoy your ride tomorrow. Gonna need pontoons around here pretty soon. Not looking good for my night rides along the river this year. Well, at least the river is getting closer. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    I had something like that done a while back. The Doc x-rayed what was causing me the agravation. He said he could get rid of it for me if I would just give him her phone number.
  18. Snaggletooth
    The Jardines or Mac's are about the only opitions out there for slips ons. Neither one is made anymore. Once in a while a set will show up on eBay. Both look the same with a very similiar sound. Deep rumble, throaty and louder than the stock pipes. From comparisions the Jardines are a bit louder. I have the Mac's on my '84 and all I can say is they remind me of a Chevy 327 when ya hit a shift at 6,000 rpm. LOL! Good luck. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Well, did somebody get hit by lightning?
  20. Snaggletooth
    No worse than I am. My daughter has given up on asking me where I'm going. The one word answer drives her nuts. It's either North, South, East or West. Sometimes I'll throw her curveball and shoot her a South South East. I do send her a text now and then with my current location so at least she knows where I ended up at. Don't forget to pack the wet suits. Enjoy your ride. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    Hi Brian, I could guess your current seat is brown. It was a common problem with the brown seats on the older Ventures and Gold Wings as well that they eventually turned sticky. After a bit of research and talking to several shops that do recovers it seems the problem was caused by the dye in the material leeching out from exsposer. Not much you can do to fix it. It just is one of those things. I ended up finding both the seat and passenger back rest, in black on eBay for about $40.00 for the seat and $15.00 for the backrest. Compared to recovering, real cheap. There are other seats out there like the Corbin with a built in back rest but they are still holding a heavy price tag, and you may not like the feel of it. Some don't and say they feel hard or stiff. There are the aftermarket backrests for the bike that you can find on eBay once in a while but you need to be sure you find one for a MKI (83-85) with the right mounting brackets. If it don't have the the brackets, don't buy it. Might take a long while to find the right ones to match. Prices can run from $50.00 to $150.00 depending on how complete it is and condition. As far as making the stock seat more comfortable, the guy to talk to is Rick Butler here on the site. We call him the Butt Butler. He does magic making the seat fit your needs. I think he is on a bit of a break right now but you can touch base with him for more info on the mod. Search "Butt Butler" or "seat mod" and you can find more info also. Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    Ok, I admit it. Some times I put things off a bit longer than I should. I installed new EBC pads front and rear about 18,000 miles ago. I've had to change out the front ones on both sides a couple of times due to caliper leaks and forks seals leaking so I've never worn a set down on the front. As for the back, I took them out and swapped sides about 8,000 miles ago to keep them wearing even. They looked pretty good back then. So.... I had bought new sets for the front and rear to install this spring and had them on hand. I had blown out another set of fork seals so I repaired that and held off on the new front pads until I was sure the new seals would hold. Needless to say the front pads were a lil slick with the oiled pads and I was depending on the rear brake all the time. Only took a couple of days to check the seals and then installed the new pads. I was going to install the rear pads when I mounted my new rear tire, which did not arrive as I had hoped so I put that off again for another week. Over the weekend I was cleaning the bike and had the bags off and looked at the caliper. I could see a lot of piston showing. Pulled the caliper off and dropped the pads. Yikes. Good thing I had swapped sides the last time. Both side were intact and evenly worn but shall we say, a lil thin. Rotor still looks great and still smooth. Good thing I live in the good ole flatlands. So all the new pads were on the day of the "Cager Club Sandwich" incident. At least that was good timing I guess. So one of the rears compared to a fairly new used pad from the front. Next time I'll be checking more often. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    When I lined my trunk I added a powered box with a switch and a LED light pod for lighting at night. Your power set up will probably be next to charge my cell, GPS and camera while on the road. Throw 'em in the truck, plug 'em in and be ready to go again. Won't be hard to patch into the wiring already done. Nice job.
  24. Snaggletooth
    I'm on a 1st gen but have played with this a lot. I run mine with zero pressure on the stand which shows about 3 lbs when on the ground. That works fine for me with 10wt oil in the forks. No bottoming out at all an only minimal dive under had braking. (no anti-dives, used Earls block offs) I have used the Progressive directions for the oil level at 5.5 inches from the top and had some issues when the pressure got knocked up to 21 lbs by accident. I had to redo the seals and dropped the oil level down to 6.5 inches from the top and no pressure on the forks. That was a smoother ride and works fine. I'm going to try the 20 wt oil at the 6.5 level and see how the forks respond with that set up. I'm a big guy at 280 lbs so I want to run zero pressure for a smooth ride and be able to tighten them up with a few lbs for better action in the twisties. My
  25. Snaggletooth
    Slow on the brakes ...... quick on the feet! Nice recovery!!!
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