Jump to content

Snaggletooth

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,545

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    Yep, that works! Takes a while to do but it does seal up nice and tight.
  2. Snaggletooth
    Nice! That is slick looking.
  3. Snaggletooth

    Sea Foam

    Snaggletooth replied to TopV's topic in Watering Hole

    It replaced about a half dozen other products I usually had on the shelf. Worth having on the shelf.
  4. Snaggletooth

    Sea Foam

    Snaggletooth replied to TopV's topic in Watering Hole

    How many products have you bought that do EXACTLY what they claim they will do? And more......... The old Sea Foam can don't have much company on that shelf. While you are shopping for the Sea Foam grab a can of Deep Creep. Also made by the folks at Sea Foam. Both great products. Check a Wally World if you can. They usually beat the parts houses by a buck or two on price.
  5. Snaggletooth
    That is a weak spot for an oil leak. I installed a new stator on mine and the rubber grommet didn't fit as tight as I would have liked. Plus the three wires from the stator could be slid in and out of the grommet. Good place for oil to wick out along the wires. I sealed the daylight out of grommet and packed sealant around the wires inside and out. So far, so good. Not leaks since. Something to check anyway. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Well, the Missouri River is doing it's best to leave the riverbed and wander where it wants in Omaha and surrounding areas. They are closing parts of I-29 North of Council Bluffs, IA as the water is up to the shoulder. It's making things interesting for sure. A few shots of the river around the downtown area.
  7. Snaggletooth
    I did the upgrade to the Buckeye stator a few years ago and recenty added the Shindengen R/R that Condor mentioned. Best combo yet! Solid 14.2 volts with the system fully loaded up. 14.4 constantly with just OEM lights. Nice match for the higher output stator and no need to be exposed for cooling as it is new technology. Have mine inside the fairing. Check around the parts sites for the R/R off a 2009 V-Max and check it out. I saw some listed last year for about $120.00.
  8. Snaggletooth
    Now that just makes proud as can be!! Let it be just the beginning!!! :clap2: Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    I'm 6'2" and a 34 inseam. I was looking through the OEM screen and wanted it lower. With the 2" shorter I'm looking right over the top so that's right where I wanted it. As far as any buffeting, I can't say I'm feeling any issue with it at all. With the full face on there don't seem to be any difference at all. With the trooper style helmet with the visor if I raise my self up a bit the wind will catch the visor a bit. But in a normal riding position, it's fine. I was a bit surpised as the OEM has that recurve at the top and the Cee Bailey is straight. Water blow off is good and I'm not getting blasted in the face by it. And believe me, that has been tested on a pretty much daily basis here over the last few weeks. As far as any change for a passenger, I have no idea yet. The daughter is not a fan of riding in the rain.
  10. Snaggletooth
    Your outfit hiring?
  11. Snaggletooth
    How short you planning on cutting it? I just bought a new screen from Cee Bailey that was 2" shorter than stock. Pretty happy with it. I think they make one 4" shorter also. But the price was good at $117.00 shipped.
  12. Snaggletooth
    Do it yourself. It don't take all the many tools to do it and if you are not needing to rebuild all three calipers it can be done in less than a couple of hours including bleeding. The bleeding usually takes longer than replacing the pads until you get the hang of it. If you are planning to rebuild the calipers having an air compressor handy helps a bunch when it's time to remove the pistons. I've had to separate the caliper halves to get that done (against the service manual recommendations) with no ill effects. If your dealer wants 8 hours to replace pads......he's milking it. The brake pedal operates the rear and front left through a proportioning valve on the rear master. That opens to send pressure to the rear brake first and as that starts to build pressure it then sends fluid to the front left brake. When the brake is fully applied it is sending 30% pressure to the rear and 70% to the front brake. The front right brake is operated by the right hand lever alone. The bleeding process is the trick to get it all finished up right. I'm old school and do the pump and bleed rather than using power vacs. The method I use is this: Rear caliper first. The metering valve behind the triple tree next. (the highest point in the system) The front left caliper. The front left anti-dive if you have a MKI model. Then the right front is pretty straight forward. Caliper first then the anti-dive. Make sure you keep the fluid level filled in the master res. and flush the entire system to fill with new fluid. Take care on opening the fill cap on the rear master res. That lil puppy can be stuck pretty good and a few have cracked the body removing it. There will be a lot of good advice jumping in here soon I'm sure. I'd offer more now but I'm headed out the door for work. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Nah.....ya gotta go back a lil farther than that.
  14. Snaggletooth
    I got to throw in for the DEKA AGM's. Got mine from Josh at Bohanon and going into my 3rd season with it. It's seen some brutal treatment including a R/R failure, had to use the starter to run it up a 50 ft. incline once to get to a gas pump, been through a starter engage clutch failure (a lot of cranking) and sub zero temp starts. It's never had a tender on it even during winter storage and it still shows 12.8 volts on the digital volt meter EVERY time. The discharge rate during storage on an AGM is so minimal you would hardly notice it. It's almost like they recharge themselves. American made to boot. Tough as nails. Great quality. And it was under $90.00 shipped to my door. Check with Skydoc_17 for sure. He sells them also. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    Boy have I been through this lately!! Fork problems...... don't ask. From what I was dealing with when I caught it quick and got the pads cleaned up right away with brake cleaner they looked pretty good. On the ones I had to run on and they got soaked, they cleaned up well, but were still saturated. Nuttin is gonna get that out. The ones that were sprayed and cleaned up right way,...... ran 'em for a few days and they worked fine. But ....... I did replace all the pads on the bike after I got the forks resealed and made sure the seals would hold. The "used & cleaned" pads went on the shelf as JIC parts. So it depends on how badly they got oiled. Good luck.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Love my Red Wings!
  17. Snaggletooth
    I've done about all I can do to my carbs over the last couple of years and have done alright with fuel mileage. Usually pull between 36 and 40 mpg in town a running in traffic. I'm not all that gentle on the throttle most the time. I was happy with that. A good day is 42 to 44. I had a morning off for a change today so I took off and wandered around on the back roads for a while. Did about 300 miles. I've always wondered how far I could push the bike for miles before I ran it dry. I usually lose my last fuel bar about 140 miles and start looking for a pump. So today I filled a gallon gas can and put it in the side tank and figured I would find out. I kept my speed as close to 60 - 65 as I could for most the miles and lost my last bar at about 160 miles on the odo. Kept rolling until I got nervous as the last 45 miles were going to have to be Interstate. Stop and filled it up. 226.4 on the odo. Took 4.73 gallons. That figures to be 47.86 mpg. I got nuttin to complain about. I must have learned something hanging around here. Ok, So I did not get to answer one question I had. I know the tank is 5.3 gallons. I should have had about 1/2 of a gallon left. Any of you know about how much you can actually draw from the tank? Later, Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Jack, Saved me some shopping. My daughter dropped the Canon Powershot last week and, well......it can shoot around corners now. Off to Wootland! Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    +1 on the quick change! And a keyless chuck.
  20. Snaggletooth
    Got a question that might indicate if the starter switch is the problem. When the starter button is pressed it cuts out the head light. Is the headlight coming back on when you are hearing this noise? And yes, the switches can get stuck.
  21. Snaggletooth
    Yep..... I always said a Dremel would be the last tool I would need. Yikes! I got three of them now. All set up for different jobs. Watch that screw on the sanding drum. Make sure it's tight. Once it works loose.....it fires out of there like a bullet. Good luck finding that lil sucker. LOL! Have fun! Mike
  22. Snaggletooth
    Hi Tom, Welcome to the site. Got what ya need for your project. PM sent. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    Hey Scott, Good move. You'll be happy with the results no doubt about it. I had the hot start problem when I first got mine and it drove me nuts. I'd have the bike stall once in a while at a light and I be in search mode looking for a place to push it off the road. I did the rebuild with new (cheap) brushes and found that the PO had done some kind of wiring mod inside the starter. Got to banging heads with Dinghy on it and he came up with the current solution. Way better than what the PO had done to mine. The rebuild made a huge difference and I got by for about a year until the cheap brushes failed. With all the info here I ended up with, in this order, cable upgrade, starter ground mod, upgrade stator, Danos starter engage clutch mod, a 4 brush starter, a new DEKA AGM and I just added the Shindengen R/R this spring. As far as I'm concerned, that is all you can do to make it right. Adding the Shindengen was the cherry on top. Heck of a unit. Not to mention I got the carbs right so it don't stall at the lights anymore. The temps have been hitting in the 90's here also and I can run through a tank of gas, kill the bike and tap the switch and it's running again. Starts the same at 90 or 19. Makes one a little more comfortable when you are 500 miles from the house. Enjoy your ride tomorrow. Gonna need pontoons around here pretty soon. Not looking good for my night rides along the river this year. Well, at least the river is getting closer. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    I had something like that done a while back. The Doc x-rayed what was causing me the agravation. He said he could get rid of it for me if I would just give him her phone number.
  25. Snaggletooth
    The Jardines or Mac's are about the only opitions out there for slips ons. Neither one is made anymore. Once in a while a set will show up on eBay. Both look the same with a very similiar sound. Deep rumble, throaty and louder than the stock pipes. From comparisions the Jardines are a bit louder. I have the Mac's on my '84 and all I can say is they remind me of a Chevy 327 when ya hit a shift at 6,000 rpm. LOL! Good luck. Mike
×
×
  • Create New...