abusive throttle cranker

I put a pencil into the plug holes. Sure as taxes I busted the tip off one in #3. Ahh np- I'll just leave the plug out of #3 and fire it up on the other three when the time comes! Blow that sucker right outa there- or into the exhaust system which will do too. Right? So I go on pulling shims and writing their sizes down- which of course involves rotating the crank back and forth. And then..........the inner exhaust valve on #3 is stuck open! Must be that piece of pencil lead! To make a long story shorter- now the clearance of both of the exhaust valves on #3 are over .19mm. Larger than they used to be! There must be fragments of pencil lead in both valve seats. So I ask you. Will firing it up on 3 cylinders cure this? Would placing the cam lobes in position to hold the exhaust valves wide open and then blowing 120 psi air pressure into the spark plug hole do the trick? Or (omg nooooooooooooooo!) do I have to pull the rear head and clean the valve seats manually? In that case can it be done with the motor in the frame? I'm on disability and with this sequester business and the politicos talkin shyt about affecting social security I'm doing what I can but waiting for my next check (a week) b4 I spend any money. So I can work on it but no spending till then- and that includes the $12 to VentureRider.

Heck I dunno what I'm doing. 180 + 70 puts it(#4) right with the intake holding the valve wide open. So I put pencils into the plug holes and find TDC that way. And cracking off the tip of the lead in #3 too. Then I try flyinfool's tool and.........I can't finger out how to use it without the valve hitting the piston! I think I better quit before I hurt myself.

Well.......somebody did. Ah Robclark in #8- then you too in #11. No matter- its always best to recheck and examine the manual too.

Thanks Squeeze. I did look at the manual. Your 90* turn- the manual says 180* lol. But thanks for the help and the link.

There is an old mech's trick of using old oil to apply to new gaskets. Both to make them easy to remove again and to make them stick in place. Of course that was from when gaskets were made of cork...... I am fortunate in that all the rubber parts on this bike seem to be in excellent shape. Including the carburetor intake boots. Soft and pliable. And this bike sat in storage in Kingman, Arizona! Found the petrified carcase of a mouse as well as its nest in the fairing under the suspension panel though!

Thanks for the welcome. I've got my whole cooling system apart right now. I figured a good inspection and flush since its been down for 2-3 yrs. Part of my problem with the valves is......I can't get the bleepin covers off! They don't clear the cam sprockets by about 5mm. I can't see what is the problem. The manual says "take off valve covers". Just that! Apparently there is no need to remove the big coolant hoses coming off the heads. There must be something there- probly staring me in the face too!

Thanks again. I can't access the members list- I guess cuz I'm still probationary. I've been putting off paying up just to stretch the times allowed......I guess its time!

Cool! Since mine is apart right now I'll replace this stuff. Not to hijack the thread but.......do ya have a source for the other parts u mention? I imagine JohnT is gonna ask anyway lol.

Thanks. Ok I'll do that. The tech section only shows testing clearance and removing a shim. No mention of setting crank position of 2, 3 , 4.

Thanks but I don't have a book. The PO said he had one but never sent it. I find the T marks np. I wouldn't think it'd be too hard. I can see the arrangement of the lobes with #1 at TDC. Then it shouldn't be too hard to turn the thing till the others are in the same arrangement. What is the firing order here?

T'hell with it- I'm overthinking this thing. I'll just turn the crank clockwise till both lobes are between 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Get 'er done!

You could try some silicone. I do on occasion see an oil pan on ebay. And its not terribly hard to swap out.

Thanks for the replies. I have the clearance specs but finding the crank position is dazzling me! I thought turning it counterclockwise was a no-no! And then your instructions are unclear. 90*+ 70 more *? what still C'clockwise? 90+70 in addition to the first 90? I took it for granted I could finger it out but seeing #2 like that just confounded me. I've seen the threads in the tech section but they don't address the crank/cam position.

Can someone please post a link to the entire process? I've tested #1 ok but after that? What TDC mark? I watch the lobes as I turn the crank and I'm confused. Cylinder #2 the lobes were at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. wth? Shouldn't they be like 90* apart? The exhaust should be open then the intake immediately after as the piston begins to descend...... The bike has 31,000 miles and was bought as a non running fixer-upper.

Y'know...........the spark plug wrench in the toolkit has a 17mm driver portion- where ya put a wrench onto it. Can't ya just turn it upside down and stick that end into the fork cap? Then rummage thru the ole toolbox and find a socket to fit the outside of the sparkplug end.

Another Happy Birthday.............................. all the cool smilies are used already!

Partzilla eh? $8.68 is the best price I've seen. PartShark wants $10.99.

I just got a reply from Bike Bandit to my question about shim prices. Their site says $15.95 but a piece count of zero. You betcha- $15.95 PER SHIM!!! Their excuse? Its OEM and not available as an aftermarket item! I'm still waiting a reply from Chaparral Motorsports. Their listing says $11.30 and a piece count of 16! I asked if I can mix sizes in that 16 count.

So......do y'all run the 5W in synthetic or the 10W?

OIC......I've been running the T6 in my prior bike Intruder 1500. Do ya use 5W30 in T6 or the 10W40?

I understood the info on this site to be Rotella- the dino oil. Are people actually using Rotella T synthetic?

There is not one in Arizona, nor in Illinois where I came from. Nor Indiana either- I lived there 2006- 2008.

Ya see how the guy then raced around the slower traffic and set off after the revenger? Was there a road rage shooting which was not filmed? As a former professional truck driver I totally concur about New Jersey. They be crazy in Atlanta Georgia but those nuts can take lessons from New Jerseyites.

Ok cool.......oh wow u have a 2nd generation! Does that tool fit the 1st generation too? Oberlin is in Ohio correct? I'm in north central Arizona. Is anyone between us interested? I have a list of things yet to be done on my bike so there is time 4 intermediate people- no real rush for me. A friend is supposed to lend me a 32mm socket but till he comes thru I'm not sure where its at. But with over 32k miles there must be at least a couple out of spec.

I also need the use of a shim kit. Perhaps Freebird will loan his tool out and each person adds shims as he swaps his in and out? We'll start another kit in circulation.