abusive throttle cranker

Thanks Snaggle. Hmmmm that photo shows no T in the line out of the canister. You own a MK I. Is that what I'm looking at?

Well, I know where the two which come out of that long slim thing nestled between the cylinders go. The one which comes out of the top of the fuel tank turns up then does a 180* and goes down into a plastic fuel filter looking thing. Upon emerging from the bottom it goes across the motor to the left side and turns forward horizontally into a T. A 3" hose comes out of the T downwards and I think goes into the emissions canister where it says "tank". The other leg off the T is increased in diameter and I THINK the free end of the hose coming off the vacuum sensor mounted under the coils and thru another T goes there. As for what else goes on that last T I really have no idea. Its pre-existing curvature is horizontal and directly to the rear. But I don't think it goes to the carbs. For one thing it is about level with the bottom of the air box.

They don't depreciate. As long as people are willing to pay your money is safe. Its an investment u can ride. Whether its a better bike is beside the point. And its like.........a rolling bling display!

That'd be fine too. I live in AZ so I don't need it. And if it is simpler then I'm all for it.

I think its a California model. A canister was included in the "other stuff" I was given when I bought it. I bought it from a guy in Kingman AZ which is right across the border from Cali. Is there any way to tell exactly?

Can someone please take some photos under the air box of a 1st gen MkII? From various views and angles? I bought this fixer upper and the carbs were already off. Then I ripped it further apart to do the valve clearances. The manual is poor in this area- and their pics are useless. I need to find out where everything goes. I do have a couple in the correct place but the rest? I'm clueless.

I was just reading the shop manual today. For the 1st gen. It says 10w fork oil. No further info so I assume they mean dino base.

Yeah the temperature of the thing is what got me. And I have been using this BT to maintain the 1 yo WestCo battery in my (just sold) Suzuki VL1500. In which app it worked fine! And recently too- 3 days ago!

I am in much the same boat. I'm on disability and Medicare. I feel that I have enough mechanical skill that, added to the wealth of information available here and elsewhere, I am capable of doing whatever may be necessary. Better than the who cares kids in the bike shops. So I buy an older bike for cheap and bring it back to being a reliable and pleasant ride. Get yourself a low mileage 1st gen. You're familiar; you know what to look for; it'll probly outlast ya

I'm sorry- I didn't make myself clear. This battery of which I speak is brand spankin' new. I put it on the tender just to make sure it was topped off as I'm not yet ready to install it the battery box/coil tray/valve covers etc all removed from the bike. And no- I have no electrical tester. As a matter of fact I am working with an absolute minimum of tools. The 7.5amp fuse in the tender line appears good. The unit plugs into the wall so there is no input line. Is there a fuse inside the tender jr itself?

I bought a Big Crank ETX-18 for my 1st gen. When I received it I wasn't ready to install so I thought to put it on the battery tender. Ya I know its supposed to be full up and ready to go. But what the heck right? And when the green light comes on I can be assured its full up. Well......it was on charge for 1.5- 2 hrs and the light is still red. I went over and touched it and the battery tender was HOT! Not hot enough to keep from grabbing it to remove from the wall but close. So- isn't the battery tender jr compatible with AGM tech? Its lead/acid right? Do I need a special purpose charger?

You actually use yours? I thought they were a just in case kinda thing.......

I'm interested but $240! Whew! And since my kids are grown theres no piggy banks to raid!

Thanks James. I really appreciate that!

OIC.......there was no oil in the package. But the filter element is red so its all good.

I needed a new air filter and the K&N was available and has a good rep. I'm not all that interested in making it faster. BTW no oil was included with the filter. Is that a problem? The plugs I removed are good but slightly carboned so its a touch to the rich side. Another reason for the K&N- will lean it out some.

There are 2x half inch holes ON EACH SIDE. I figure to try it this way. I can probable plug one or all the holes if necessary. As long as its not a major problem right off the bat....... Of course I'm not familiar with the bike so won't know if its 100% or just 90%.

I want to consult the experts......I have purchased a new K&N air filter and I find some mods have been done to my air box. The square internal piece which screws in with sheet metal screws(screws into the divider panel-the one between the upper and lower halves) and fits inside the filter is missing. Also two half inch diameter holes have been drilled into the box on each side. They are above the divider into the filter side of the box. Another thing- the new air filter does not allow the lid to settle down completely into the groove around the circumference. Yes- I have made sure is is seated correctly inside the tabs. I almost fits- but is maybe 3/16ths apart at rest. I imagine that tightening the screws will draw it down some. Can I just go with this setup as it is?

Yes those do appear to be the missing pieces. Tho I've only seen them on a parts fiche view lol.

I'm not sure if I was an addressee for your posts. To make myself clear, I do have the stand and it is mounted on my 1st gen. But it hangs to the ground because of the lack of the spring and curved bracket which retract it and hold it up in position.

What do you guys use for the spring and that curved arm piece? They are missing from my bike and the places I've looked all have them as obsolete and not available. I'm afraid I'm gonna be a good ole boy and tie it up with a bungie cord.

FYI- I am a retired truck driver. I still have my CB radio, coax and antenna. The stud mount on my 1st gen is NOT compatible with my antenna which is the type commonly used in the US. It must be metric......... and idk if an adapter could be found.

When it rains it pours....... I tried to take the TCI out so to put it on top of the air cleaner or into the fairing as has been suggested here. And of course I rounded off the screw on the right side- ya the one its next to impossible to reach! I used a western rim spec phillips to match the screw socket, wedged it in there strongly by leverage and used a wrench on the screwdriver shaft- and rounded out the #@@$%$@^%^%&%# anyway! So I removed the right side fairing to get at it and...........the high tension lead for #3 has been munched on! Probably by the dead mouse I had found. Not only that but some genius PO has cut the wires for the temp senser. Not being content with that he managed to also cut the tan wire to the horn on that side! Bork me!

hmmmmm now thats an idea......... This being #3 there is a problem with clearance. I wonder if we have an elbow for the vacuum.......

I agree the valve seats must be dry and bare metal. But still the lead could be compressed on to the surface. I'm worried about a hot spot as muffin says. Any wood and the mass of the stuff will almost instantly be gone/ash/vaporized. I think high pressure air and then spinning it with the starter. And follow that with running on 3 cylinders. Anything left after that will be miniscule. A couple explosions in that cylinder will certainly finish it off. I really really really don't want to tear the head off. @Carl: My first readings of the exhaust valves on #3 yielded clearances of