abusive throttle cranker

Oh....all that typing and I didn't say the headlight went out during start? It did so that subsystem is working well. And since thats the way its designed.........The battery is a brand new Deka- isn't that about as good as it gets?

I bought my 1st gen as a non running fixer upper. I've taken the fairing off, the battery and coils out (to remove the TCI to a better location) and I have taken the headlight off temporarily to disconnect the anti dive units. Whenever Partzcrappy refunds my money I'll finally have Progressive springs ordered. Anyway- to the situation. I have the carbs in but not the fuel line- nor is the electric plugged in to the pump. I connected the suspension control box but not the CB or radio or intercom. The TCI is connected of course and temporarily fastened to a fairing mount arm above and to the left of the carbs. I have a new Deka ETX-18 battery, new high tension leads and new spark plugs. All required connections are made. First I turned the key to Acc. and the suspension seems to be good. A little air leak up to the left of the battery when the front has pressure but no matter- I'm going to Progressive springs and no air pressure ( I weigh 185). Then I crank it with no plugs in. The headlight is dim and the white indicator is on. And the spark is weak. I'm doing this in a darkened room to check for sparks jumping etc. This is done with the garage door closed and only a 40W bulb in the opener. No sparks- other than the plugs. Of course it spins good with no compression. So- whats the likely culprit here? BTW I do have Earl's fuse kit but haven't installed it yet. I have no ATF fuses and I figured to try it with the old setup first. Too many variables already. I did install Earl's battery icon eliminator wire but I guess not correctly- the red light is still flashing. I'd appreciate any ideas y'all may have. Oh ya- no fuses were harmed during this experiment.

Wow!..........nice slogan!

You can remove the fuel sending unit mounted in the top. Then look inside, siphon, whatever ya need to do.

Dunno what to tell ya Noel. It could be so many things. The coils may fail when heated up. I suggest you check it out a bit and try to narrow the possibilities.

Its from 2007? I'd say its toast just on that factor. If u used it it would be a crap shoot as to how long it'd be before you would be ded on the side of the road.

Don't buy from Partzilla- you will regret it. All 3 of my recent order were the wrong parts. I'm into it for $40 (including returns) in shipping and nothing accomplished. And their customer service lines are overloaded. And the live chat is shut down due to overload. And their "within 48 hrs" email service ain't within 48 hrs- haven't heard back yet! Edit: Boats.net is a Partzilla operation.

Tommy- I've done some research about degree wheels. Years ago a non- mechanic friend bought himself a Triumph. As I understand it a degree wheel is usually intended for a specific machine. It keys into the driveshaft there being a keyway intended for the flywheel or some such. Then its just a matter of marking the case- if there isn't an OEM mark. There are general purpose degree wheels but again- they must be set in relation to TDC or some exact marker.

Check out some boating sources. There are corrosion problems using dissimilar metals. Especially ones in direct contact with each other. Salt water aggravates that of course. Boats- especially steel ones- use a grounding tab under the waterline which is intended to disintigrate before anything else. As I recall aluminum is not particularly robust in that regard.

Partzilla is terrible. I ordered 3 items- a throttle cable, Progressive springs and a Kuryakyn electric 3x switch to fit atop the master cylinder. I sent an email to make clear which cable I wanted since the microfiche view was poor. I was assured I would receive the correct one. I received the wrong one. The switch assembly doesn't fit either. I called for an RMA. And was on hold over an hour. Then I checked the Progressives. Too large of diameter- won't even fit into the fork tubes. Since the phones are jammed I tried the live chat. It was shut down for overload- at 10:50am! Its supposed to be active till 4pm. So I sent an email. This on a Saturday. Here it is Monday evening and still no reply. I have learned my lesson.

Wow........I thought once a photo was up my problem would be solved PDQ! Surely someone knows what to do here.

I ran into much the same problem. I eventually discovered that we do NOT use the firing order in setting the valves. Set your crank at TDC for #1; then 180* and do #3. Then the 180* plus 70* to TDC for #2 (yes there is a mark on the flywheel). After that then 180* to #4.

In Phoenix eh? If I ever get my hose problem fingered out I'll be using my brandy new Carbtune and could then ride down there. But of course there is the problem of Partzilla messing up all 3 items I ordered- a throttle cable and Progressive springs being 2 of them. Warning: Partzilla's search engine is very poor. The springs I received won't even fit into the fork tubes!

I've seen that thanks. "To air vent pipe" kinda leaves something to be desired. What air vent pipe? Do I even have one?

HAH! Well........I been called worse. Yeah thats it. And if ya look closely u can see my pitiful attempt at inserting text pointing out the various hoses. My main problem is on the right- the 5" hose off the "T" and the nipple behind it. I just don't know where or what they hook to.

[img=http://i49.tinypic.com/2ylmcye.jpg]How 'bout HTML?

O bleep; tinypic don't work? Or I'm doing something wrong (more likely : )

http://http://tinypic.com/r/2ylmcye/6This photo shows the area above the motor with the carbs absent. http://www.venturerider.org//http://tinypic.com/r/2ylmcye/6

Being a retired truck driver: the 3 trailer rigs u see in the US are limited to certain roads. I80 across Ohio being one of them. They can cross Indiana too but when reaching Illinois must drop the 3rd trailer. There are yards at the state line for just that purpose. Also the trailers are 28' and limited to that length. With only 2 axles they are meant for high volume/low weight loads- such as UPS or FedEX hauls.

My rule of thumb- just fer talkin' sake. Ya need to drop at least 10 grand into a Hardly before it could keep up with a 1000cc japanese machine.

I have the Harbor Frt lift too. But the exhaust headers hang below the frame rails on the 1st gen. Do you just lift it under the exhaust? O.O The bleepin thing is so heavy I'm afraid of collapsing the header pipes.

I had one of those for awhile. Sitting on it and riding it its just another UJM. Without seeing the motor it could be a vertical twin. No difference in feel. And the starter grinds metal by the ounce. I sold it before I had to tear into it.

Thats like..........doing more than one thing at a time?!? Omg a disaster about to happen!

U better find the bike too- cuz that ain't it!

Do you know what sintered means? It means liquid formed. Personally I don't care if they are liquid formed or not. Or semi liquid formed. Besides- they're so easy to replace I just go on cost.