abusive throttle cranker

Which site have you been looking at? Perhaps others are better?

I am missing Pilot Air #1. The one showing in the carb throat.

Ok great........but what size do I need? Its all stock. No big pistons, cams or anything.

I think I may have found my problem....... Check out this link I found in another thread. http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm Go about 2/3 the way down the page- you'll see colored arrows 1, 2, 3. Click the picture just below that one. Does the Venture have jets as pointed to with the green arrows? Called Pilot Air One jet? Cuz mine doesn't! None nodda! What size are they? I suspect I need to buy some. Maybe it'll run then.

I am buying a set of Progressives for my 1st gen. $85 to $90. $200 is way crazy. Heck $350 for the forks work is crazy too. But then I am kinda tight..........

Ok thanks guys. I'm gonna tear into this today. But I can't get a ride to obtain carb cleaner till after 3 pm. Also I'm going to replace those little circlips on the fuel lines with hose clamps. I'm sure those clips gotta be substandard by now. Plus they're sunken into the grooves in the surface of the hoses. Gotta cure the fuel leaks!

Did the saxophone player swing out over the audience on cables attached to his belt? He did when I saw them years ago. Lost his wallet into the crowd lol. People threw it back to him.

Ok thanks Snaggletooth. I'll try that. I'm having trouble searching for the shotgun cleaning method. I have cleaned lotsa crap out of the (exterior of) idle adjustment screws. They probly haven't been touched in many years. I set them at 2.5 turns- which is more than the less than 2 turns they were at. The interior of the carbs is pristine of course- having had them apart. Including the floats and jets. Never flowed liquid thru the overflows however.

Alright......I have been through all the junctions in front of the instruments. I have put my battery on my Battery Tender jr. and it is full up. All indications on the dash are good. No white light. Fuel and coolant leaks fixed. Try firing it and.........not much. It spins at a good rate- no problem there. Oh BTW I have drained most of the old gas (only a couple ounces remain) and added 3.5 gallons fresh. Half 87 octane and half is 91 octane. With full choke it'll fire. And stay running (barely) when I let off the starter button. But touch the throttle or cut the choke just a little and it dies. There is raw fuel outside #4. Probably from the fuel input line. And it appears more fuel is draining from the coolant plug on the side of #4? Is that even possible? No- it is not from the same source. There is dry crankcase between the 2 leaks! I have had many carburetors apart in my experience. I assembled these and believe they were good to go. The diaphragms are good. So........I lean toward the conclusion that the weak spark is my problem. Any input is welcome of course. Oh- one thing. Those little rubber vent hoses which go to atmosphere just below the heads of the sliders? Mine are plugged. Or at least I get nothing when I try to blow into them or suck on them. What are they? Should there be airflow thru them?

No no- the one lets loose with the spritzers to clean ur..........backside. Beware cold water!

I'll take a set too. My positive cable is showing and it looks poorly.

There is a plastic sleeve into which the end of the rod fits. This in the end (the 2nd set) of carbs. If the sleeve is missing then the rod will move in the fitting and not move the choke mechanism.

The keys have YH 49 on them. The barcode has numbers under which are 29069 70684

I went to my local Ace Hardware and asked. They cut me 2 keys and out the door for $4.95. I was amazed! Both keys work too!

Is the throttle spring perhaps too strong and causing the muscle tension which in turn causes the pain you describe? Perhaps one of those throttle buster things on the throttle which place a pad under your palm and thus relieve the constant gripping and twisting of your wrist? 150 miles is enough for the tension to have effect on your arm/shoulder.

Scooters with auto trans. Try that on a full touring bike with clutch.

If it is so much like a 1st gen there is a 32mm nut on the crankshaft under the left side cover. NOT the smaller one in front!

Antifreeze contains Caustic Soda (an acid) in minor amounts- like 3%. I know cuz I used to be involved in its manufacture. It may also contain inhibitors- that would vary by the manufacturer. Of course the freeze plug would not be susceptible or they wouldn't use it! Can't have the thing dissolve and let the coolant run out!

Yup Chrysler crap. The maintenance will kill ya. I had a Plymouth Voyager. 3 transmissions in 5 years. At $1300 apiece! Chrysler junk!!! Ya ever need to replace the metal brake lines running along the frame? I have....once. Chrysler crap. My sister in law had a Reliant K. 3 engines in that thing. So she trades it in- on a NEON! In 4 years it spent half the time in the shop having head gaskets replaced! Chrysler crap!

It looks like one of the oil passage plugs which sit in the top of the cam towers. Has he had his valve cover off recently?

Hmmmm ya I could run another ground. Can't hurt and may be informative. I've been over all the connections and fuses in the battery area and used dielectric grease on them all. Well....except the fuse holders.

Ahhhh ok........I didn't check the other lights at all. With the fairing off both turn signals/markers are disconnected. Nor did I flip the dimmer switch- tho the blue high beam lamp stayed dark. Yes thats a good idea to check all the connections up there. Dielectric grease em too. I have used the grease on everything I have checked so far. But up front I just disconnected the anti-dives and left all else alone. I unmounted the headlight and left it hanging by the wires as I worked. Tried to avoid stressing it of course. And I was unaware the red light indicated anything other than the battery.

I'm not familiar with the 2nd gen but I bet the kickstand switch is just a simple contact switch. If you have an electrical tester current should flow when the plunger is pushed in. 2 wires right?

The plugs are new fresh out of the box. As are the plug wires. And I've been wrenching japanese motorcycles since 1967. Seen some sparks lol. Been zapped more than once. I had to allow for the 40w light but still...... And the headlight is dim! Seriously dim! And the white indicator light is lit! Something is amiss as they say! But it did spin well- under no load its true....... Also- later I hooked up the fuel pump and it worked well. I wanted to pump the old gas out and add fresh.

That or the fuses. If it was dirty connections you would at least get clicking.