luke000

To the people knocking young kids that don't know their stuff, hello from a young kid who works in retail (not at Lowes but as a head bicycle technician) and i can say that a lot of the young people at my Lowes (wont even step foot in my local home depot) are absolutely clueless, and much older than I am BTW but the older guys are not much more help a lot of the times. If anyone is interested there is a little loophole in Lowes policy it is the :in store pick-up with 20 minute guarantee. http://www.lowes.com/cd_Shipping+and+Delivery_378641591_#BOPUIS I am sure this works well at some locations but at mine the people working at Lowes don't seem to care at all and only go to start looking for what you ordered once you get there. I get there right at the 20 min mark and i usually get what i ordered in my hands about 20-40 min LATER. at this point just go up to the customer service desk and say i thought this was 20 min guaranteed and after a few phone calls they give you $25-50 in cash (last time i bought $20 in lumber for my trailer and walked out with my lumber and $5 bucks extra folding money ) Now i will say I don't abuse this system, but I don't feel bad when if the employees put in charge of this did their job and worked as hard as I would, not getting an order on the radio and do nothing until the customer arrives, still do nothing and eventually strolls down the isle picks the 5 most warped pieces of lumber (or whatever) and brings it back 30 min late. BTW it is usually the kid doing the work so that is a blow to my "give the kids a chance" argument but I can say there are a few good kids who work in retail involving "technical" work that know their stuff just as well or often even more than some of the old timers (not often but sometimes, I can prove it if you need a $4000 downhill mountain bike fixed) PS: my little 20 minute guarantee thing is a great way to get a reciprocating saw half off PPS: My local Lowes is in Haprer Woods, MI so if anyone knows the area you can take a guess at the level of service and employees (just sayin')

Thank you everyone for your input and offers, I sent back the old hitch to the seller and got a refund for the original price and shipping, he is sticking me with return shipping ($15) "because that is eBay's policy" he also claimed he "never saw the crack, but will take my word for it". And yes I grabbed the other one on eBay up so I am pretty happy with that, it even looks like the bag guard is in better shape than my current one and there is a flag pole holder so I just could not say no. Plus all in all I am spending $5 less overall! I probably could have welded it myself but it was not worth the hassle or getting crappy looking chrome. Quick question, I am currently wiring my bike for the trailer pigtail and I looked on a wiring diagram and the bike and can not figure out if on the tail light the brake light is the blue wire or the yellow wire, anyone?

Actually I do have 1 set of spare washers (from the toasted slider) but that makes sense about the spring being the contributing factor, I sorta feel stupid for not thinking of that.

Well I received a hitch yesterday for my birthday that was purchased off eBay, It was described as fully functional and operational, and when I looked at it there is a nice sized crack where the ball attaches on the plate it is the same size and shape exactly as the washer would be on the back side. It just looks like someone tried towing a boat or something and now it kinda looks like a pop can tap pulling open. My question is (and this is my first trailer hitch on anything besides a truck) in your opinion is this unsafe and could continue to crack farther, In short should I try to get the money back for it?? also some points i want to make with the seller/eBay if/when I do this would be helpful. :rippedhand: PS I just found the one in the last pic at a VERY good price, should I pick it up quick (1 day left)?

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

The JBM seems like its made stiffer rubber, do not think this would affect the running on that one carb to have a "softer" (for lack of a better term at the moment) sync wise? (I will be balancing them when I am done no matter what)

Well I will probably get my a$$ chewed out for this but if your looking for a cheap reliable gun look at hipoint. You will hear a lot of BS about them coming from people who who have never owned or fired one but heard from their uncles, neighbors, mechanic who had one fail. But they will last forever (they have a lifetime, no questions asked warranty. That they will always stand behind for the lifetime of the gun even if its your fault.) They are not the prettiest but they will go bang every time you pull the trigger. They have pistols in 9mm, .40, and .45. I had the 9mm version and liked it a lot for the value.

I was changing my diaphragms and noticed I needed to replace 1 carb slider. I got the new one today and it has a new diaphragm on it, however I am using the JBM style diaphragms with the thick rubber tire instead of using the 2 washers to attach it to the slider. I want to have the other JBM on my new slide so they are all the same, however I want to keep the one that came with my new slider as an extra. How would one go about removing the stock style diaphragm without destroying it? The old ones were trash and i simply cut them off.

I could see the marks from the rubber still on the bezel so I took care of that

Thank You! I got it all set and looking good.

I went out yesterday to try to find some 7.62X39 for an SKS I am picking up tomorrow and there was absolutely nothing i can find in the metro Detroit area. Also I looked for some 9mm for a hi-point carbine and same story. Good news is I am trading that hi-point +$50 (w/ 80 rounds of ammo) for that SKS and I am getting 200+ rounds with that .

So after a month and a half my VR is finally started being put back together. I am installing a windshield and I have 2 metal/ rubber plate tab things that I know where they go and a vague idea of the purpose. BUT I am having a senior moment on the orientation and affixing method of said part . IE does this piece go on top of the "glass", between the glass and the rubber or between the rubber and the frame? And there is holes for 2 screws in each tab and the frame however only 1 of those is threaded, Is there just 1 screw per tab . I thought i took a picture of the windshield as i was disassembling it but it looks like i did not, probably thinking it was so simple i could not forget. And the parts diagram is no help whatsoever. PS I attached a picture of the tab for ref.

I would go for a small patch!

The '86 Venture: The Freightliner My Subaru: Akiko And my fist car (3 years ago) was a 1989 Audi 90 Quattro and her name was Helga

"Anything free is worth saving up for" Harve Presnell in Escanaba In Da Moonlight. Its in my signature

What type of helmet do you guys and gals ride with normally?

Thats my job!!

+1

Dont worry about the washers, I have a dozen left over from my last project. OR if I was a real cheap a$$ I would just re-anneal the old ones (not doing that)

Actually I bought an '86 Royale, I just realized that my profile says '83 for some reason. Changed it, and bought some calipers a few days ago and I got them yesterday . I am a little short on cash for a few weeks so it will be a little while (February) until I can get the new SS lines. Since my last post I have rebuilt the rear master, gutted the proportioning valve, & blocked off the front port. I rebuilt the rear caliper (PITA removing the 4 frozen pistons)

Yesterday I tackled the project of a coolant leak on my '86. The hose that went from the thermostat to the radiator was deteriorated and seeped fluid. The part number for that hose called "Hose 3" is 26H-12578-00-00. It has been discontinued by Yamaha, boats.net said they had it for $24.26 plus S&H. I bit the bullet and ordered it from them:mo money:, it did not ship and i heard nothing from them so I called and they said they don't have it and can not get it . So I went into AutoZone and gave the old hose to the lady at the counter and sure enough they had an almost EXACT one in stock! I had to trim less than an inch off each end and it fit perfect! The AutoZone part number is A71651 at a cost of $4.99 Long story short.....Yamaha part #26H-12578-00-00 = AutoZone part #A71651 (need to trim just a little off each end)

Yesterday I tackled the project of a coolant leak on my '86. The hose that went from the thermostat to the radiator was deteriorated and seeped fluid. The part number for that hose called "Hose 3" is 26H-12578-00-00. It has been discontinued by Yamaha, boats.net said they had it for $24.26 plus S&H. I bit the bullet and ordered it from them:mo money:, it did not ship and i heard nothing from them so I called and they said they don't have it and can not get it . So I went into AutoZone and gave the old hose to the lady at the counter and sure enough they had an almost EXACT one in stock! I had to trim less than an inch off each end and it fit perfect! The AutoZone part number is A71651 at a cost of $4.99 Long story short.....Yamaha part #26H-12578-00-00 = AutoZone part #A71651 (need to trim just a little off each end)

Ill be there!!