yamagrl

Yeah... We hope to start doing a lot of traveling next year. I still have at least this year before I'm able to be away for lengthy periods. I'll be around if anyone needs. H

Sold all the bikes. At one point I had 4 and a parts bike. After the wreck in late 2016 I figured it was best to "read the writing on the wall". I hadn't seen the pavement side of a motorcycle since 1981. I thought I was invincible. I'm not on the site much anymore but I get notifications when I'm quoted. That's how I popped up on this one. I am still available if someone has problem that I might be able to help with. Just quote me in the post or pm or phone always works. I have been resurrecting a 2000 29ft motorhome with 7.3 Powerstroke. Named it Harvey (get it?) Learning diesel engines is interesting. Anyone good with 7.3 Powerstroke? Heather

I still can. They're still listed on member vendors Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Yeah I'm not on much anymore. If you want to get my attention PM me or text or call me. My contact info is still there. Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Motorcycle transmissions have been known to be a little finicky at times. If it shifts while moving but won't while stopped just slightly let the clutch out and try it with a slight clutch drag or slightly engage and disengage the clutch. This will will allow the transmission to try to rotate and the transmission forks to get a little different bite. This is kinda like rocking the bike back and forth to go through the gears when the engine is not running. Heather

Damon_Ferraiuolo@msn.com Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Here's one for $81+ $10 shipping http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=gunson+gas+tune&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xgunson+gas+analyzer.TRS0&_nkw=gunson+gas+analyzer&_sacat=0 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gunson-Exhaust-Gas-Tester-Digital-Exhaust-CO-Analyser-EXCELLENT-/262919657488?hash=item3d373b9810:g:WMsAAOSwzgBY4BqY http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/WMsAAOSwzgBY4BqY/s-l400.jpg

I think the Service Update also included a new stator for some of the bikes. The picture on page three illustrates the "punch mark" that dealer would have made when when if it was Service Update was done. The picture on page 2 shows the "ID mark on the new rotor bolt". I would think that the original owner would have had it done. It was free to the owner. I only have it as jpegs

No RTV or sealer. I think I used assembly fluid or moistened with oil so that it smoothly reassembled. Be sure to get your shims correct. It is also advisable to check the backlash with a dial indicator.

Good news Brenda! The starting system on these bikes is fairly simple and straight forward... Sometimes the biggest problem is not being able to see the "forest for the trees". I'll attach a couple of pics, etc to help me explain. The first thing we'll do is determine if the problem is the battery, the starter or somewhere in between. The below pic shows the Starter Solenoid. Make sure the bike is in NEUTRAL (not negotiable) NEUTRAL. If not it might just jump off of the trailer! Ignition switch can remain in any position. OFF is fine. Jump across those two big bolts (10 mm I think) with a screwdriver. The screw driver will likely cause some sparks.​ This creates a DIRECT CONNECTION from the battery to the starter and DIRECT BYPASS of the entire starting system as well as the solenoid. If the battery is good and the starter is good and the cable connection are good then you will know it. There will be no questions. The starter motor will turn. ​ If the starter DOES NOT TURN then the problem lies within one of the following: Battery, starter motor or cable/connections. If the starter DOES TURN then the problem lies somewhere in between. So... Now we will jumper the relay from with in itself... This will tell us if the solenoid is working or if the problem lies farther in between. Step 2 Make sure the bike is in NEUTRAL. If not it might just jump off of the trailer! Turn Ignition ON. At this point no other switch positions are relevant. It doesn't matter the position of the clutch, engine kill...nothing else matters. Just make sure the ignition key is in the ON position. Jumper a wire from that little blue wire to ground. Any good ground will work but a wire to the NEG side of the battery would be best. Just poke your jumper wire into the back side of the connector and then touch the other end to GROUND. ​ If the starter motor turns then you now know that the Solenoid is good and the problem lies farther in. If the starter motor does NOT turn then the problem is the solenoid. ​ This is essentially what is happening when everything is in the proper position and you hit the start button... That blue wire finds a ground and that causes the solenoid to fire off the starter motor. The green highlight in the diagram illustrates this. Let me know what you find. If you need to you can call or text me. My number is on my profile and also VR Assistance page. Heather P.S. Take it a step at a time... jump it with the screwdriver first then move on to Step 2. If you still haven't figured it out at this point we'll dig deeper.

I have enough supplies to make a few more sets... if there is enough interest

Just hide in plain sight Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

I have a little hiding place in Northwest Florida Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Actually a crochet hook works great to extract those stubborn orings. I learned that from Damon's carb video. Also siriusconinc offers some decent carb screws, diaphragms, etc https://www.siriusconinc.com/mobile/search-result.php?make=2&model=xvz12&part=1&partno=&search=search Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Hardware store, Lowe's, just about anywhere. Most all of that clear tubing is fuel resistant. I think I used 1/4 inch.