Adavidson56304

I am installing r6 calipers on the front of my 87. The oem rear caliper has grooves worn in it from the brake pads. I'm wondering if I can use the front right caliper in the rear. It looks the same other than the bleeder is in a different location, but there is also more open space between the halves. I don't know why but there is about 3/16" difference between them. Thanks Aaron

It's easier to work on at head height, saves a little floor space too. Still trying to figure out this new phone.

I managed to break an air line from my compressor while working on my 87. It's the short one from the compressor to the rear shock, about a foot long. Anyone have one laying around they could part with? I can't find just the hose on ebay and don't want to buy more than I need. Thanks [ATTACH]81513[/ATTACH] Figured I'd throw in a picture of my project.

I'd start with gas. Do you hear the fuel pump click when you turn the key on, before you start it?

Anyone have a good source for bearings? How about aftermarket? I've found a set made by pivot works, comes with both bearings and seals for $56. That sure beats the yamaha price.

Putting on a new tire and I'm going to put in new bearings because I don't want to pull the wheel again anytime soon. Not fun. I've got an 87. Anyone have a list of everything I'll need? How does the drive shaft pull out to grease the splines? Also I'm confused as to whether or not grease the rear splines in the pumkin? Thanks

It is a floating rotor but shouldn't be real loose, or rattle. I had a problem with mine, the spacer on the rear axel was on the wrong side of the caliper bracket and the rivets started to break because of this. I would look into that as a possibility. Some people have fixed the rivets by putting something solid behind them and pounding on them.

Well I think I'll try again later. The seal and spacers stacked are about 13mm and the area where it should all sit looks about the same, so it should fit.

I'm trying to install yamaha seals, the ones I removed were aftermarket. The old ones measured to be 6mm and the yamahas are 8mm. I'm fairly certain the bushing is fully seated. It was flush in the tube. I've beat the seal in with a seal driver and it will not go any further. The top of the seal is flush with the groove for the retaining ring, so, when I add the spacer on top, I can't get the retaining ring in. Does anyone know the specs for the yamaha seals? I have the right part number, but maybe I have different forks on my 87.

I've got a question about these spacers. Is there one thinner and one thicker one? If so which goes where? I can't get my seals to seat and it looks like my spacers are both thick.

I'm looking for a fork seal driver to use on my 40mm forks. Can't find a 40, what have you guys used? Will a 41 work fine? What brands, sizes... do you use? Thanks

Yeah they are.

I was able to pry them out with a screwdriver. I gave up on trying to save them and put some force into it and they popped out. One was a little beat up, but I filed it down and it should work fine.

I have my forks apart now on my 87 and my washers above the seal are flat. Or supposed to be anyways, I'll be ordering new ones because they are all bent out of shape for some reason.

So, I have found that the forks were put together incorrectly. The special washers are at the very bottom and the oil lock piece above that. I'm guessing this could cause some problems. They are stuck in the lower fork, probably beat in from bottoming out because it was put together wrong. Hopefully I can get those pieces out, get it together properly and then start testing how it handles best. Might be looking for some different lower forks if I can't get the piece and washers out.

Having some issues here. So I have one fork off. It seems the oil lock piece and special washers are stuck in the lower fork. I can see them through the antidive holes. The washers are in the bottom and the oil lock piece above that. So, I know they were definitely put together in the wrong order. The oil lock piece is put in with the flange up. Is that upside down? It should be flange down, correct? Any ideas of how to get them out without damaging anything? I've tried prying, holding it upside down and hitting it.

Has anyone thought about simply tapping the holes for the antidives and putting bolts and gaskets in?

Thank you!

I have not be able to access the first gen service manuals

The po did tell me the fork seals were recently replaced when I bought this bike. After the other problems I've had on this bike, it would not surprise me if something was put together wrong or missing in the forks.

The oil level was 5 3/4" from the top just to be sure I did not use too much. I did not use the PVC spacers but at one point did have 10 or 12 washers on each side for preload, but the ride felt too stiff to me, but it was still bottoming out when I slammed on the brakes.

If they were stuck open, is it possible that could cause me to bottom out? Or could it be something else? I'm replacing fork seals and bushings this week, anything I should be looking at?

I actually replaced the springs with progressives last fall. I disconnected the antidives at the same time. They ride nice. I started with 10wt, now am riding 15wt. I have 2 washers on the top of each spring. But, ever since, I have bottomed out on big bumps and fast stops. So I was wondering if block off plates will help with this. Sounds like it will. Thanks Aaron

So, when people install block off plates, they are actually turning on the antidive permanently?

Ow do the antidives work on a mk2? There must be a solenoid that opens/closes flow of oil, but what I'm wondering, is it normally closed to stop the flow and opens when the antidive activates, or the other way around? Thanks