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rhncue

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Everything posted by rhncue

  1. rhncue
    There should never be any oil leakage in this area. I would clean and check the filter cover very carefully if I were you. I had an 81 XS11 that uses the same filter housing and O-ring. One day I was sitting still and revving the engine and the O-ring popped out and all of the oil dumped onto the ground in less than a second. I pulled the filter and went and got a new one and a new O-ring and new oil. I went riding that afternoon at speeds of 70 and 80 MPH. The next morning I road across the street to a supermarket and got a few items. While riding through their parking lot at around 15 MPH the O-ring blew out again and dumped all of the oil onto my rear wheel. The back end came around and passed the front wheel and I high sided the bike. I broke my elbow in this accident. If this had happened the day earlier I certainly wouldn't have survived the accident. Upon checking the filter cover, I found some small stress cracks in the cover starting at the center bolt hole and radiating out. This let the cover flex slightly so that under the right condition, the O-ring could pop out slightly dumping all of the oil thus causing an extremely dangerous condition. Dick
  2. rhncue
    Probably for ever if you liked. Second is nice to have when you want to feel like sliding off the seat but when just riding or cruising it really isn't needed as there still is plenty of torque to go from first to third and that bad washer doesn't affect any other gear that I am aware of. Dick
  3. rhncue
    Actually, that is not an oil pressure indicator but an oil level indicator. Put your bike on the center stand or make the bike as level as you can and look at the site window, near the bottom of the case on the clutch side of the motor and see if the oil level is between the marks. If it is then all is safe and the false reading is from a continuity issue between the sending unit and the dash unit. If it is low then you may not have put in the correct amount of oil when changing it the last time. Dick
  4. rhncue
    Don't need no stinkin reserve. Got a fuel gage. I leave my reserve on at all times. When I fill the tank I reset the odometer and when I've gone so many miles I refill. Between the gage and the odometer it's hard to not know when in need of fuel. 70,000 miles now and I've never ran out of fuel yet. Dick
  5. rhncue
    The brake pedal clamps onto a device that has a portion shaped like a cylinder that goes through the frame. There is no grease fitting and sometimes this cylinder and bushing gets rust in it and it takes more force than the return spring can exert. Taking spray penetrating oil and spraying the area and working the pedal up and down will eventually loosen it but it may take a day or two. You can also take the pedal linkage loose, remove the master cylinder and the return spring slide the apparatus out and clean and grease the area. Mine has been stuck like this 4 or 6 times over the years as my bike sits in the elements. I've often thought about removing and cutting some small groves and putting in a Zerk fitting but I never get around to it. Dick
  6. rhncue
    Sorry. The floor boards nor the touring trunk are interchangeable between the two models. You could change the touring pack but to do so the entire rear sub-frame, with the corresponding saddlebags, lights, hand holds and such, must be changed from one bike to the other. Dick
  7. rhncue
    I rebuilt my clutch slave 3 or 4 years ago. The hardest part of the removal was getting the two allen head bolts to break loose. They were very tight and had loc-tite on them. i even bought a set of allen wrenches that were used with a socket wrench but the socket broke. After rounding off the wrench a number of times I finally put some valve grinding compound salve into the socket and onto the allen allen wrench. The carborundum made for a much better fit between wrench and bolt and gave a bite that eliminated the wrench slipping so that the bolts finally broke loose. I rebuilt the original slave which was a little of a pain as it was very corroded and really full of junk. If I would have had any clue that a new slave was that cheap I would have never considered rebuilding the old. Live and learn. Dick
  8. rhncue
    Do you have the ignition switch in the correct position? It must be on accessories for the class system to be energized. If the switch is in the proper position are you getting any readings at all on the screen? If not you should check the plug on the class unit and the wiring harness. This is just a start to solving the problem. Dick
  9. rhncue
    If both wires are hot on both horns you don't want to hook up any battery to the horn, it already has juice. What you want to do is disconnect one wire from the horn and take a jumper and ground the side that you disconnected. do this to both horns. If they both work then you know it's not the horns. If one horn blows when pushing the button then there's nothing wrong with the button but a wire not making a good connection somewhere in the harness. Dick
  10. rhncue
    I bought my 83 in 2000 with 22,000 miles. At around 28 to 30,000 miles the clutch started slipping. The 83 has 6 coil springs. The discs looked good so I just changed these springs to what an after market dealer called heavy duty springs. It has not slipped since and now has 69,000 miles. Dick
  11. rhncue
    Your brake pedal is adjusted incorrectly. To be adjusted correctly, you can't just have play in the pedal. You must also have play in the small rod that connects the linkage to the master cylinder. The piston in the master cylinder must be released completely or else the small bleed hole near the bottom of the cylinder will not be uncovered so as to allow the fluid pressure in the line to be released. When this occurs, every time you apply the brake, more fluid is forced into the line and stays there so that the pistons in the calipers can not retract. When adjusting the brake, adjust this rod first, the adjustment is behind the frame on the linkage with a locking nut to keep the adjustment correct. When you have a little play in the rod, then you go ahead and adjust the pedal height and amount of play that you prefer in the pedal. Dick
  12. rhncue
    There is no one-way valve in the line. That is a restrictor so that the vacuum is consistent instead of pulsating from the engine. The boost sensor is pretty difficult to get to as the battery holder and such must be removed and it's bolts are usually well corroded from acid. Those little sensors are pretty expensive to buy from Yamaha. You may want to try to repair yours. Some can be repaired and others can't. Bad part is that the bike is down while you are trying to repair. Dick
  13. rhncue
    To do the job correctly you also need to change the bushes (I believe Yamaha calls some of them pistons) and seals. You can contact Rick Hafferkamp at http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/ as he has all parts needed and gives members here a discount plus he will give you great advice on the easier ways of installation. Dick
  14. rhncue
    Taking it out, reinstalling, and taking it somewhere to be welded is the time consuming part. After pulling mine, it took me about a half hour to cut open a flap in the bottom with a thin disc grinder and remove the baffles. The time consuming part was taking It to a welding shop for them to run a bead around the flap. It shouldn't take you more than an hour or so longer repairing your present collector than replacing with another unit, if you have a welder on hand, and you would save around a 100.00 or so for a used one. Dick
  15. rhncue
    Yes, all one package. The compressor, manifold with the servos on side and pressure sensor on end and the desiccant holder are all mounted together. Dick
  16. rhncue
    The first time you have to work on the carbs is a killer. Getting them off took me at least an hour and probably two and then getting them apart, realigned back up and reinstalled took forever. The second time was much quicker as you now know the easy way to disconnect and connect the throttle cables and all the other idiosyncrasies of removing and re-installing the carburetors. I can now have the carbs off the bike or re-installed in around 10 minutes or so. The crankcase breather hose is a real pain to reinstall until you finally come up with the correct long nose pliers and access point. Dick
  17. rhncue
    If you paid that much for I think you got robbed. I bought the NOS kit a few years ago on e-bay with a buy it now price of 10.00 and 3.00 shipping. They may have become scarcer now so the price could have went up. I think the resell on e-bay is the best idea. Dick
  18. rhncue
    I have Markland bumpers on my bike. One goes around the lower saddle bags and the upper goes around the trunk. Each one has 9 lights on it, three on each side and three across the back. I've never tried to insert pictures on this forum. I'll do some reading later to see how it's done. Dick
  19. rhncue
    I had a 79 XS11 and an 81 XS11. Both of which were full dressers and nearly identical to that bike. They both were scary fast especially for such a big heavy bike. It was no problem to just twist the throttle at any time in first or second and pull a wheelie. I had both of them up to 140 on a number of occasions and there was still power left. They are much quicker and faster than the Ventures. Dick
  20. rhncue
    This voltage drop when using the brakes is very common and has been brought up before. It's just one of the first gens idiosyncrasies. Dick
  21. rhncue
    If you are rebuilding the forks then you certainly should be replacing the seals. By your statement that you are rebuilding, do you mean just replacing the springs or are you also replacing the bushes in the lowers. These should be replaced if the seals are leaking as those wear and allow movement which is the main reason that the seals leak. Dick
  22. rhncue
    Bleeding the master will not always eliminate this problem. The clutch master lever will wear on these bikes if not kept lubricated. The hole in the lever where the bolt goes through for attachment can waller out. Also, there is a brass cylinder that the connecting pin sets into that can become worn. These areas, if worn will allow much play in the lever so as to hinder the proper operation of the master causing the clutch to drag or not fully release when applied. Dick
  23. rhncue
    I always used to get my batteries at Sam's as they are by far the cheapest at something like 29.00. They would last about three years. This last time I got a 680 jell battery off of e-bay for a little over a 100.00 and it's the best battery I've ever had in a motorcycle. In Feb. it was up to around 40 deg so I went out and cranked the bike over and it started. This was the first time it had been started after almost 4 months of winter. It cranked over better after sitting for 4 months in the winter than other batteries have cranked it over in the summer after sitting a day. I'll never go back to a standard battery at any price. Dick
  24. rhncue
    I snipe everything that I purchase on e-bay. Put in your highest price you are willing to bid with a sniping program and forget about it. I've got many bargains in this way as there is no bidding wars taking place where the testosterone levels often drive the prices higher than new. I once saw a windshield go for over 250.00 when a new one is only slightly over a hundred. I got a front bumper with lights for 20.00 a few years ago. Dick
  25. rhncue
    My seat was exactly as you describe yours is when I bought my bike. I had it reupholstered and was charged 225.00 at an upholstery shop here in Cincinnati. This was in 1990. I'm thinking of having one done again but I'm going to do it myself with a cover from this place. http://www.motorcycleseatcovers.com/ Good luck Dick
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